Basic Powder Suggestions Needed for Reloading Setup

nchunt101

Member
Charter Member
Joined
Dec 16, 2016
Messages
3,902
Location
location
Rating - 100%
1   0   0
Long story short I need a basic list of powders to start stocking up on for a first time reloader. I know next to nothing about reloading but want to take get ahead of the curve while supplies are plentiful and sales are fairly common. Mainly interested in supplies for the .223/5.56, 9mm, 308, 40S&W , and 6.5 Creedmoor. Given my lack of knowledge I have no idea where to start. Also would appreciate die suggestions---looking for the most idiot proof and easy to use dies that will work with a Lee single stage press. I have a Breech Lock kit I bought a while back that is still sitting in the box.
 
Powders:

Take a look at your reloading book and see what powders are common across what you plan to reload for. Some are better suited for some applications than others.

Me personally, I ran across a powder, bullet, case, primer combo that one of my AR 15 just loves. I've stocked that powder.

Pistol powder is some Bullseye, Unique, Win 231/HP38.

Versatile powers like Trail Boss can be used for pistol and reduced rifle loads.

Sometimes what you buy is dependent on what is in the shelf. Remember that rifle loads eat more powder than say a lite pistol load.

Dies.

My personal stash is multi colored. It is heavy on RCBS green, some Hornday red, Lee red and Lyman orange. Some die sets offer advantages over others. Hornday used to offer free bullets with a purchase of dies. I took them up on the deal twice.

What ever dies you buy make sure that you buy extra decapping pins and spindles. You will break them so don't worry.

You will find locking rings for dies vary in style. RCBS uses a brass set screw. A little trick here is to use a couple of pieces of lead shot under the set screw so you don't damage your threads on the die. I like Hornady rings better. Lee's are just a o-ring pushed up in their die ring which I hate.

Carbide dies for pistol calibers is a must.

Look at other tools that mount on the press such as trim dies, universal decapping dies, primer pocket swage dies, bullet pullers. All of these dies make life better as a reloads.

Don't let this overwhelm you. Go at your own pace. If you want to talk send me a PM and I'll be glad to talk.

Sent from my SM-J320V using Tapatalk
 
I would suggest that you also stock primers, brass and bullets while they are plentiful.

For 223/556 plinking I’ve gone to pulled down powder and 55gr fmj projectiles from @Butter for $0.05.

Handgun I’m all over the place, too many calibers and bullet weights sometimes suppressed and sometimes not. Still, mostly use Bullseye, W231 and Titegroup.
 
Bulls Eye = 2,000 rounds per pound. 3.2 grains and any pistol caliber using full weight Ball. 115-180-230. Runs them all like crap through a goose. 9s-40s-45s. It works at Camp Perry, it'll work at your house.

There are 7,000 grains of powder in one pound. Keep that in mind as you're looking at your reloading manual. I get about 1,000 rounds of 40s&w from a pound of Blue Dot. I get about 500 rounds of supersonic 300BLK from a pound of Win296. I get about 175 rounds of 6.5 Creedmoor from a pound of H4350. I get about 150 rounds of 30-06 from a pound of powder.

You need to read your reloading manual and study which cartridges you want to reload. My manual puts bold text on the powder loads which tested as most consistent. I tend to choose those instead of trying to find one powder that I can use for everything I load.

Read twice. Think about what you just read, and then read it again before you pull the handle the first time.
 
For a minimal amount; Unique for handguns, light rifle loads, shotguns and for high pressure rifles buy IMR 3031.
 
I've had pretty good results with CFE223 in my AR.

Since you're new to reloading, I strongly recommend you get a burn rate chart to go with your manual. Pick a couple powders that are popular for the cartridges you plan on reloading.

Your first foray into rolling your own should be with a simple, straight wall cartridge. Get confident in the process, then expand to others. Be methodical, pay attention, don't reload when tired or distracted.
 
I like Varget for my 308 and .223 heavy loads for precision.

H335 for 55gr .223

4350 for creedmoor

H1000 for 300 WM

I wouldn't know for pistol... cause I can't shoot one worth crap and don't reload... if i am down to the pistol, I am a goner!
 
Pistol: Cleanshot, Unique, BE-86, or PowerPistol would be good. Decent case fill, fairly economical in light loads, the latter two can duplicate factory SD loads without getting off book if you want. PP and Unique are sooty in light loads.

223/556, 308: Tac, Reloder 15, BL(C)2, H335, and seriously a ton of options that cross over, for a novice I lean a little more toward ball, less worrying over inconsistent powder drops. Never even looked at 6.5 in a manual.
 
Thanks for the help. Probably should have added it might be awhile before I actually start reloading/studying it. Really just want to lay in a goodly amount of supplies while I can. I have been buying bulk 223/9mm/40/308 for awhile and have a modest horde so not a huge priority to get started.

Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk
 
Varget and CFE223 are pretty universal rifle powders for 223 and 308. H4350 or I4350 good for 6.5CM. Lee dies are a bargain in rifle or pistol especially when they are on sale. Varget hard to find right now but I know somebody who has 8#'s for sale in the BST forum here.
 
Unless you have a bunch if money to dump on the project right away start out small and grow over time. Buy in batches that make ammo. Get 1 lb of powder with the corresponding number of brass, primers and bullets instead of an 8lb jug and nothing to pair it with.

Then figure out how much you shoot in 1 year and stack that deep. Then 2 years, 5 years, stop at your comfort level.
 
Reloder 15 is a great powder for 223 and 308

H4350 for 6.5

I’m a Titegroup fan for pistols


And I use CCI primers for everything. #200 large rifle, #400 small rifle, BR4 small rifle match and 500s for small pistol
 
I am a big fan of Power Pistol for 9mm, also have used Accurate no.5 with good results. Unique is good too.

For 223, h335 is grewt. Also a fan of win748.

For 308, imr 4895, h4895, imr 4064 are good. Stocking up on blc2 myself..I like hiw ball powders meter more accurately in my thrower, and not crunchy. Also use the same in '06 as well.
 
First things first decide what bullet weights that you want to reload in each caliber. That will make a difference in which powders you choose.

A powder for 55gr .223 is not going to be the same for a 69 or 77gr .223. Taking this into consideration will keep you from buying powders that just sit on the shelf and never get used.
 
Do not try to make a very few powders do everything. That may work OK but may not produce the best results. You could probably get by passably well with nothing but IMR 4064 and Unique, but you can do a lot better by using the powders that are better suited for each chambering and each bullet weight. As mentioned earlier, the manuals will give you good indications of what powders are well suited for each application.
 
BE-86 is one of the most universal powders out right now. It'll push everything from .380 to 44mag.
^^^^^ This. I've had good luck with it in 380, 9, 40, 45acp, 44mag, 357mag, 38spl, and 10mm. It won't give full magnum velocity in magnum calibers, but does give good mid-range loads.

OP mentioned 9mm and 40, I also like Power Pistol in those as well. Lots of powders will work well in both of those due to the pressure involved. The lower pressure rounds like 38spl and 45acp are a little more picky about powders, low charges of any powder will burn dirty.

Powders for 223, I like 8208 and Varget for precision loads in heavier bullets, and H335 or H4198 for 55gn plinking loads. Varget also works well for 308, but it does not meter that well from most powder measures (large extruded grains). H4895 is also a fairly universal powder.
 
Thanks for the input/advice. Looks like I will be reading some manuals before buying anything. I was hoping to stock a few basic powders for range use/bulk loads but looks like there is more too it than I initally thought.
 
I would suggest that you also stock primers, brass and bullets while they are plentiful.

For 223/556 plinking I’ve gone to pulled down powder and 55gr fmj projectiles from @Butter for $0.05.

Handgun I’m all over the place, too many calibers and bullet weights sometimes suppressed and sometimes not. Still, mostly use Bullseye, W231 and Titegroup.
What do you like about titegroup ? I have tried Titegroup and accurate no.5 and found titegroup to be a little snappier than accurate no.5.
 
I keep Titegroup and 231 for pistol, H110, Lil Gun, and Trailboss for my Blackout stuff. Can't remember what I stocked for 223/556. Haven't used it just saved some up for a rainy day...
 
What do you like about titegroup ? I have tried Titegroup and accurate no.5 and found titegroup to be a little snappier than accurate no.5.
Titegroup burns fast and seems to produce little excess gas, so good suppressed.
Otherwise it’s just an efficient powder, charge weights are relatively small, and it works well in 9mm and 38spcl.
Haven’t compared it specifically to Accurate #5, but I wouldn’t be surprised if it’s a little snappier at top loads.
 
Lots of good info here. But I’ll add a thought....

Dig up a reloading manual from the 1970s. Compare that to your latest manual.

Choose powders that appear in both manuals.

If you never get around to reloading, you can recoup some of your expense by selling your stash. Or you can use it for trading.

If you buy powder that is the latest/greatest, you will have a more limited market.

I’m still using primers and powder that I bought 30 years ago. I recently finally used up my Bullseye. I’m pretty confident I don’t need to go far to get more.
Same thing. Bought a lot of old gun powder from someone and I thought I would try it. Did not have any trouble with it. I was very surprised and impressed.
 
For handguns I've had really good luck with Bullseye and Power Pistol and find I can get very consistent charges out of my powder measures on both of them.
Normally, I use Bullseye for lighter charges (especially for .45ACP) and Power Pistol for regular or heavier ones in my 10mm.
 
I stock H335 for 5.56 and .300blk and Titegroup for pistol. If you use lead the titegroup seem to be a bit smokey but never bothers me while shooting.
 
Generally, if you are not wanting to stock a lot of different components, I will study the manuals and start with the powders that give the most velocity with the least pressures. This may not be the most accurate because some calibers act differently, but I've found this to be a great starting point and have rarely had to deviate much from them. Of course theres always.....Man, I've gotta try that stuff.
 
  • Like
Reactions: Me.
I keep just a few pounds of powder on hand. Titegroup goes a long way and meters great. Varget is another all around good powder. But I do have a few pounds of others that I like too.
 
Bulls Eye = 2,000 rounds per pound. 3.2 grains and any pistol caliber using full weight Ball. 115-180-230. Runs them all like crap through a goose. 9s-40s-45s. It works at Camp Perry, it'll work at your house.
The true test of a man's intelligence is how much he agrees with you. I couldn't agree more with BOB. He's right in the x ring. Bullseye is great stuff.
 
Back
Top Bottom