Ash, have you considered a mini-split instead of a window unit? Most of the modern mini-split's are inverter based and the power consumption is very low.
Do tell!Ash, have you considered a mini-split instead of a window unit? Most of the modern mini-split's are inverter based and the power consumption is very low.
Do tell!
I don’t even know what that is.
Edit: Okay, I see now what they are.
Pretty much the same thing. Our longest range vehicle is my wife’s car. Appx 450 on a tank of gas. I always make sure I have enough gas at home to fill the car. Keep enough cash nearby where we can stay in at hotel for a month well west of the affected area. As long as I can afford it I’ll NEVER do another Fran like power outage.
Thanks John. I think that’s the answer I was looking for.Again, the thing about surge is that it's transient. Fractions of a second.... and it's never the same level from one second to the next.
It might be 6x the run current in the first 0.02 second of the turn on surge
Then it might be 1.5 the run current at 0.5 seconds after the turn on.
It's a very fast process, and there is no answer to what any surge current is, without defining "at what time in the event?"
What will happen - likely you'll hear a blip in the running noise of the motor as the gen works to supply the load for a moment.
What would happen worst case? The generators circuit breaker would trip.
There is a 115v mini but it has a low seasonal energy efficiency rating (SEER). Its junk like any mini split not Mitsubishi, Toshiba, or Carrier. Trane until this year was made by a garbage manufacturer. Now some of their high end is made Mitsubishi.About the mini split... it's definitely worth a consideration. You can actually buy them pre charged, and install yourself. No ductwork, 1 drain line, lineset and control/power wires. I helped a friend install one in his son's tiny home. It works great. I liked it so much, i had 2 installed in the upstairs bedrooms in my house. I was looking at having a heat pump unit put in for it (we live in an old house that has never had central air). Used window units for 4 years, and finally got tired of the high power bills, and bit the bullet. So glad we did. 2 independent 12k btu units, and my upstairs is a comfortable as the downstairs. Had an AC and gas furnace installed for the downstairs. The other beauty is, nothing hanging from the window, and making it difficult to seal.
Does your generator produce 230VAC? They might make a 120V mini split, but i couldn't tell you. I'm not an HVAC guy.
On another note...apparently @noway2 is also a fellow EE geek. Just wanted to say hi!
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There is a 115v mini but it has a low seasonal energy efficiency rating (SEER). Its junk like any mini split not Mitsubishi, Toshiba, or Carrier. Trane until this year was made by a garbage manufacturer. Now some of their high end is made Mitsubishi.
I have 230VAC Mitsubishi units... love themThere is a 115v mini but it has a low seasonal energy efficiency rating (SEER). Its junk like any mini split not Mitsubishi, Toshiba, or Carrier. Trane until this year was made by a garbage manufacturer. Now some of their high end is made Mitsubishi.
Who is the manufacture company? Highest non Mitsubishi 115 I have seen is 15 seer.I have a 115v minisplit in my house. It's a 22 seer and very energy efficient being inverter driven.
Who is the manufacture company? Highest non Mitsubishi 115 I have seen is 15 seer.
ThanksPioneer
Thanks
I highly suggest a power surge unit on each mini split. They are very cheap to wire onto the disconnect. Mini splits have many boards, and relays are all on boards. The close nature to sheet metal is problematic. If nothing more it’s good insurance against being without air conditioning instead of waiting on a part.I also have a Pioneer Seer 22 unit in my machine shop. It’s a heat pump. Had a board go out 3 months after installation; the factory sent a replacement w/o any hassle or cost. In all fairness, some local lightning strikes probably caused a power surge that killed the board.
How is the (building) grounding at the shop? Is the shop metal and if so is the structural steel tied to ground? Ideally, if a lightning strike occurs, the (ground) voltage will rise and fall much like a wave. Your electrical service, which is the isolated secondary of the service transformer is theoretically referenced to the same ground or very close to it; meaning that if there is a strike while the ground potential rises, your 120/240V (or 208V /480V 3-phase) service stays and everything connected to it stays the same relative to ground.I also have a Pioneer Seer 22 unit in my machine shop. It’s a heat pump. Had a board go out 3 months after installation; the factory sent a replacement w/o any hassle or cost. In all fairness, some local lightning strikes probably caused a power surge that killed the board.
After a storm both the thermostat and a control board in the geothermal heat pump got fried at my parents house. They were replaced under warranty but a whole house surge suppressor was added as a precaution. I am guessing they are TVSS devices and it is probably necessary to check them periodically to make sure that they haven't failed due to too many surges.I highly suggest a power surge unit on each mini split. They are very cheap to wire onto the disconnect. Mini splits have many boards, and relays are all on boards. The close nature to sheet metal is problematic. If nothing more it’s good insurance against being without air conditioning instead of waiting on a part.
Small window units are all made the same. Make em cheap and stack em deep philosophy.It looks like the Pioneer mini-split requires a hardwired dedicated 20amp circuit. This is probably not optimal for my application at the other end of the house from the breaker panel.
I’m still thinking about an 8000 btu window unit just for emergency use, and none seem to get any better ratings than 4 of 5 stars, if those ratings can even be trusted. Any recommendations on brand of window unit to pursue?
How is the (building) grounding at the shop? Is the shop metal and if so is the structural steel tied to ground? Ideally, if a lightning strike occurs, the (ground) voltage will rise and fall much like a wave. Your electrical service, which is the isolated secondary of the service transformer is theoretically referenced to the same ground or very close to it; meaning that if there is a strike while the ground potential rises, your 120/240V (or 208V /480V 3-phase) service stays and everything connected to it stays the same relative to ground.
After a storm both the thermostat and a control board in the geothermal heat pump got fried at my parents house. They were replaced under warranty but a whole house surge suppressor was added as a precaution. I am guessing they are TVSS devices and it is probably necessary to check them periodically to make sure that they haven't failed due to too many surges.
Not sure if you're going to find them in the area, but we sell a metric buttload of Comfort Air brand sleeve and window units in Chicago. They're Chinese, and service is nearly impossible to find, but I think they're also extremely reliable. The reviews on AC units are to be taken with a grain of salt. Buyer expectations are typically outsized when they buy a new unit. A properly sized unit for your room that's properly installed can only bring the temperature down about 20 degrees. If it's 100 degrees outside, it's going to be 80 degrees in the room. People get irritated about that when they want it to be 65 in there, then they trash a review.It looks like the Pioneer mini-split requires a hardwired dedicated 20amp circuit. This is probably not optimal for my application at the other end of the house from the breaker panel.
I’m still thinking about an 8000 btu window unit just for emergency use, and none seem to get any better ratings than 4 of 5 stars, if those ratings can even be trusted. Any recommendations on brand of window unit to pursue?
I was reading reviews of people unhappy that their new unit only went down to 64 degrees, not 61-62.Not sure if you're going to find them in the area, but we sell a metric buttload of Comfort Air brand sleeve and window units in Chicago. They're Chinese, and service is nearly impossible to find, but I think they're also extremely reliable. The reviews on AC units are to be taken with a grain of salt. Buyer expectations are typically outsized when they buy a new unit. A properly sized unit for your room that's properly installed can only bring the temperature down about 20 degrees. If it's 100 degrees outside, it's going to be 80 degrees in the room. People get irritated about that when they want it to be 65 in there, then they trash a review.
Hmmm. I wonder if it would be beneficial for you to install a lightning protection system. Basically it amounts to picking points along the roof peak and other spots where you place little metal poles and using a heavy braid wire them together to a three rod grounding triangle. It gives the lightning a path to ground that is somewhat controlled. Obviously dealing with something that delivers 1.21 giga watts all bets are off, but it might help. At work we still occasionally still lose equipment to strikes even with the system.My farm is located on high ground and we get a lot of lightning strikes within 1000' or less to the buildings.
It looks like the Pioneer mini-split requires a hardwired dedicated 20amp circuit. This is probably not optimal for my application at the other end of the house from the breaker panel.
I’m still thinking about an 8000 btu window unit just for emergency use, and none seem to get any better ratings than 4 of 5 stars, if those ratings can even be trusted. Any recommendations on brand of window unit to pursue?
This is only an emergency prep. The window unit I’m angling for will sit in a box until the power goes out and I drag out the generator, and then only if it’s hotter than I can stand with just fans.Meh, wire a pigtail to it and plug it in...
This is only an emergency prep. The window unit I’m angling for will sit in a box until the power goes out and I drag out the generator, and then only if it’s hotter than I can stand with just fans.
The Pioneer I was looking at is about twice the price of the “comparable” ac unit, although I am sure it’s much more efficient. I’ve got gas logs that heat up the room pretty well and Big Buddy heaters with lots of propane so I’m less worried about being cold as I am about being hot.These minisplit units are so cheap and easy to install, just install it and you can use it as a zone heat pump. If the power goes out, plug it in...
Very expensive but effective. I subbed out one at an airport and supervised the work. Basically I did nothing and billed for it. Government money is nice and lumpy. When you lay down on your wallet it hurts.Hmmm. I wonder if it would be beneficial for you to install a lightning protection system. Basically it amounts to picking points along the roof peak and other spots where you place little metal poles and using a heavy braid wire them together to a three rod grounding triangle. It gives the lightning a path to ground that is somewhat controlled. Obviously dealing with something that delivers 1.21 giga watts all bets are off, but it might help. At work we still occasionally still lose equipment to strikes even with the system.
There is a lot of information on these systems in ham radio publications, believe it or not.
Hmmm. I wonder if it would be beneficial for you to install a lightning protection system. Basically it amounts to picking points along the roof peak and other spots where you place little metal poles and using a heavy braid wire them together to a three rod grounding triangle. It gives the lightning a path to ground that is somewhat controlled. Obviously dealing with something that delivers 1.21 giga watts all bets are off, but it might help. At work we still occasionally still lose equipment to strikes even with the system.
There is a lot of information on these systems in ham radio publications, believe it or not.
...a metric buttload...
Much like buttcheeks. Should you spread butt cheeks? Ewwww.Could you please quantify or define that terminology? Google has results for metric s*** ton, but fails to find results or a definition for the technical term "metric buttload". Are you sure buttload is one word, or should it be two... or possibly hyphenated?
Thanks in advance...lol
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Could you please quantify or define that terminology? Google has results for metric s*** ton, but fails to find results or a definition for the technical term "metric buttload". Are you sure buttload is one word, or should it be two... or possibly hyphenated?
Thanks in advance...lol
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Does yours say what the amps and wattage is on it? I wonder if my small generator would run that? I have a 4000/3500 watt that is running the fridge, a freezer and some lights. That would be perfect for the bedroom if the power is out very long in the hot weather.Have you thought about one of these portable units? I bought one several years ago for just what you are doing. I actually have it setup in my shed right now but can quickly disconnect and move. They are on wheels so easy to store in a closet and get setup quickly. I bought an extra window and duct kit that I keep inside. Mine is an Idylis brand and has worked out great.
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Unfortunately, It only says Input: 9.5 amps at 120v. It's a 10,000btu/hr unit. I'm trying to find my little plug in Kill-a-watt power monitor. I think it shows startup current when in use but cannot remember. I'll update if I can find it.Does yours say what the amps and wattage is on it? I wonder if my small generator would run that? I have a 4000/3500 watt that is running the fridge, a freezer and some lights. That would be perfect for the bedroom if the power is out very long in the hot weather.
Based on all the discussion we had here I am guessing that would work. Check the name plate label for the amps for your frig and freezer. Mine is ony 1.5 amps on the frig, but it is new, and only 15 cubic feet.Does yours say what the amps and wattage is on it? I wonder if my small generator would run that? I have a 4000/3500 watt that is running the fridge, a freezer and some lights. That would be perfect for the bedroom if the power is out very long in the hot weather.
My fridge is 22 or so cubic feet and 7.1 amps. I can't find anything on my freezer but it's only a small 5.0 cubic footBased on all the discussion we had here I am guessing that would work. Check the name plate label for the amps for your frig and freezer. Mine is ony 1.5 amps on the frig, but it is new, and only 15 cubic feet.