What Did You Do In The Garage Today?

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lowcountry said:
Myself and a couple of other volunteers have been tasked in getting this 1941 Ford fire engine back on the road. We met tonight at the garage to get a game plan. Going to get the brakes braking and the cooling system cooling first.View attachment 13832
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After much frustration and cussing, finally got the brake lines bled after replacing the master cylinder. Also installed a new radiator with a fan set from a Dodge Neon. Using the Neon's fans was a tip from a weekend drag racer. Once we had fresh fuel in the system, the motor cranked right up and the temperature held at 190 idling. Took it for a spin around the parking lot and let it idle some more and no more overheating issues. The shoes (drums all around) need to be adjusted which will probably be the next work item. I need to get video of it running. It is a Chevy small block with cherry bomb exhaust. The Ford flat head was junked a long time ago.
 
Changed pads and rotors on the front of my wife's Toyota Sequoia this morning. Last time it was at the dealership for service they said brakes would be needed soon. Honestly had just planned to have them do it next time it was in. Front started squealing last weekend up in the mountains. Called to get an appointment and ask about cost. Quoted $800 for front rotors and pads and $300 for rear pads. Went ahead and bought pads and rotors all around at the dealer for around $425 after they price matched online pricing. Once started, front rotors had visible grooves and were worn, rear looked great. Rear pads still had at least 50% life so didn't need to change them. Only took around an hour and a half to change the front out.
 
After enough rearrange, today was fun day in the garage. Even got the boy off video games / computer.
He made some mantis blade and some kind of sword out of some foam board.

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I worked on a birdhouse/feeder.
It will be resting on that column behind it.

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Well I had the water in fuel light come on last week on my 05 F250 with 6.0 power stroke. So I drained it and changed filters. Light kept coming on. So tonight after watching several videos I took the HFCM off and cleaned it. The bottom of the fuel bowl was filled with crap. It looked like slimy rust and goo. Took about an hour to remove it and clean it then replace it and get the truck cranked back. If you've got a 6.0 I would highly recommend doing this if you've never done it. On a scale of 1-10 it was about a 4 not hard at all you just need two tools to get the fuel lines off of the housing.

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Put the Ford Accessories wireless keypad on my SD. It was strange to me that such a loaded out truck didn't have the keyless entry keypad. Ford makes it easy to add one to any vehicle with keyless entry.


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Lawless said:
Put the Ford Accessories wireless keypad on my SD. It was strange to me that such a loaded out truck didn't have the keyless entry keypad. Ford makes it easy to add one to any vehicle with keyless entry...
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This keypad is one of the handiest things Ford has ever come up with. I haven't stuck a key in a Ford door in over 10 years.
 
Lawless said:
Put the Ford Accessories wireless keypad on my SD. It was strange to me that such a loaded out truck didn't have the keyless entry keypad. Ford makes it easy to add one to any vehicle with keyless entry.


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You think Chevy sells those? I miss the keypad from my Exploder.
 
Lawless said:
Put the Ford Accessories wireless keypad on my SD. It was strange to me that such a loaded out truck didn't have the keyless entry keypad. Ford makes it easy to add one to any vehicle with keyless entry.


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How much was it and how hard was it to do? Might be nice to add to mine

Their touch pad was an amazing creation, miss it on my parent's older fords
 
GoWolfpack said:
You think Chevy sells those? I miss the keypad from my Exploder.
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I have not researched it, but someone may make one. To my knowledge GM does not.
We had it on all the previous Fords we have owned but some reason this loaded XLT Lariat didn't have it LOL, it's a VERY handy thing to be able to just leave the keys hidden in the car when fishing or other situations when you don't need to risk losing your keys.

HMP said:
How much was it and how hard was it to do? Might be nice to add to mine
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$72 shipped and pretty easy to program + add your own 5 digit code of your choosing to go along with the random factory code. Got it from these guys, a Ford dealer on ebay. Be aware that the pic on the ad is not the exact model that may fit your veh.
 
Lawless said:
$72 shipped and pretty easy to program + add your own 5 digit code of your choosing to go along with the random factory code. Got it from these guys, a Ford dealer on ebay. Be aware that the pic on the ad is not the exact model that may fit your veh.
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Does it just stick onto the car or is there any drilling required?
 
This is over the last few weeks
 

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Replaced six out of 12 26yr old T12 ballasts with new electronic type,
six more to go tomorrow. I have them wired in four banks of three each.
I can see what I am doing again!

I kept the T12 because the new bulbs I got for $1 each on clearance
and the T8 ballast was $5 more expensive.
 
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Spent the morning yesterday changing the distributor cap in my pickup. Should be an easy job, but they located it about two inches behind the radio and completely under the dashboard. Let's see if this fixes my problem starting in high humidity.

Sometime later, maybe today, I will be changing out one of the O2 sensors.

Sent from my SM-T550 using Tapatalk
 
I went to put a lowering kit on my new bike today and realized it did not come with a center stand. WTF? How in the hell do they expect you to work on the rear shock if you can't get the back of the bike off the ground. I searched the web and found a special lift the goes through the swingarm bolt holes to lift it but dam it's $300 . I can' t use the standard paddock stands because I need all the weight off the swing arm. I guess it will be another week to get that shipped in.:(
 
Short Fuse said:
I went to put a lowering kit on my new bike today and realized it did not come with a center stand. WTF? How in the hell do they expect you to work on the rear shock if you can't get the back of the bike off the ground. I searched the web and found a special lift the goes through the swingarm bolt holes to lift it but dam it's $300 . I can' t use the standard paddock stands because I need all the weight off the swing arm. I guess it will be another week to get that shipped in.:(
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Got a milk crate? Or a transmission jack?
 
not today...
But over the weekend I got a Dust collector installed to the Tablesaw, Bandsaw, Sander. used 4in thin-walled rain water drain pipe and fittings.
need more piping to get a run to the Drill press and eventually to the Planer and jointer.
 
Short Fuse said:
I went to put a lowering kit on my new bike today and realized it did not come with a center stand. WTF? How in the hell do they expect you to work on the rear shock if you can't get the back of the bike off the ground. I searched the web and found a special lift the goes through the swingarm bolt holes to lift it but dam it's $300 . I can' t use the standard paddock stands because I need all the weight off the swing arm. I guess it will be another week to get that shipped in.:(
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I have hung my Super Glide from a Come Along hooked to a steel beam in the ceiling to change shocks. Just used a good tie down strap around the bike.
 
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Short Fuse said:
I went to put a lowering kit on my new bike today and realized it did not come with a center stand. WTF?
Click to expand...

Never heard of a kit that came with a center stand before - most people just have their own stuff
Dont blame the company for this one
 
Remshooter said:
I have hung my Super Glide from a Come Along hooked to a steel beam in the ceiling to change shocks. Just used a good tie down strap around the bike.
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Ive seen people use ladders with tie downs
 
Mirac said:
not today...
But over the weekend I got a Dust collector installed to the Tablesaw, Bandsaw, Sander. used 4in thin-walled rain water drain pipe and fittings.
need more piping to get a run to the Drill press and eventually to the Planer and jointer.
Click to expand...
You're going to love it. I have a small woodworking shop and have most all of the saws on the vac system. I also have it rigged so when I turn a saw on, a few seconds later the vac automatically turns on. Then when I'm through with the cut and the saw stops, the vac runs for about five seconds to clear the line and then shuts off. It's all done with a current sensing switch.
 
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SilvrSRT10 said:
You're going to love it. I have a small woodworking shop and have most all of the saws on the vac system. I also have it rigged so when I turn a saw on, a few seconds later the vac automatically turns on. Then when I'm through with the cut and the saw stops, the vac runs for about five seconds to clear the line and then shuts off. It's all done with a current sensing switch.
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Yeah... I'm not that professional of a Woodshop to set that up. I just ran a switch to above the table saw. I've only got an 8 ft. Ceiling, so just reaching up and flicking the switch is about all I'm going to do with it. I'll be running manual blast gates too. None of that fancy automatic types.
It sure is nice not to hear a screaming vac running while making a cut now
 
Mirac said:
Yeah... I'm not that professional of a Woodshop to set that up. I just ran a switch to above the table saw. I've only got an 8 ft. Ceiling, so just reaching up and flicking the switch is about all I'm going to do with it. I'll be running manual blast gates too. None of that fancy automatic types.
It sure is nice not to hear a screaming vac running while making a cut now
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It's really not that difficult. It's all in the switch. Plug the vac in it's outlet and I had one of those extension cords with a plug every 5 feet or so. I think you can find them in Lowe's around Christmas time. Plugged a lot of tools into it (typically only use one at a time). So when you start the tool, the vac comes on. I have the manual gates on my system too. Not THAT sophisticated. Switch is about $50 on Amazon.
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HMP said:
Never heard of a kit that came with a center stand before - most people just have their own stuff
Dont blame the company for this one
Click to expand...
Every motorcycle I have ever owned came with a center stand installed from the factory, except my 1976 Yamaha 650 Special. That bike was so heave if it fell over you had to get your buddies and a 6 pack to stand it back up.
 
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Decided that I needed more tool storage, a space for the gunsmithing stuff separate from the garage working stuff. Bought a snapon KRA398A box from 1982 and am in the process of cleaning it up. Installing all new slides, and since the tools tend to be relatively light I'm thinking the slides (as opposed to ball bearing slides) will be good to go.
 
My brother was visiting last week and one of our projects was to get my 1920's vintage Novo 1.5 hp hit and miss engine running.

I still need to tweak the governor a bit, but it's running much better than when I bought it. Recent additions were a new valve, new valve cage, and knurling the other valve guide to tighten it up. Did a lot of fine tuning too.

 
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I picked up some new wheels for my 69 C10, it already has Ralley's on it but these are clean, fresh paint etc. I will pull off the ones on it and sell them. Mine isn't 4x4 but I already have spinner center caps that I will mount to these wheels.wheels.jpg
 
I want to replace my side door in the garage with a plain steel door. Rather than buying a new prehung door for $180, I was able to find a used slab for $40.

A little dirty, has 2 small screw holes, and the top/bottom hinges need to be relocated 2" lower/higher. The exterior side is great.

I JB welded the 2 holes, will sand them smooth, sand the whole interior side of the door then repaint.

Current door:
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Replacement:
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I should have it completed this weekend.
 
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