Rifle Loading Equipment

hlpressley

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Evening everyone. I am looking to get into loading rifle rounds very soon. Mainly looking for Precision rounds. I plan to start with .223 to shoot out of my newest 18" SPR but will eventually also look into loading some larger calibers such as 6.5 Creedmoor. I am not new to reloading as I have been loading pistol rounds for several years, likely 200k or more pistol rounds loaded using a Dillon 550 and now a 650, but I've never loaded a single rifle round. With that said would you guys recommend a single stage for this? If so which one would you recommend? What other equipment would you suggest that I look into for Precision rifle loading?

Thanks in advance for your help!
 
Few more steps to loading rifle rounds. A case prep center is awesome. I load my .223 on my loadmaster but my .270,.308 and I will load my creedmoor on a single stage. Don't forget to lube the damn cases when sizing. One of the first things I did was get one stuck in a sizing die. Lee makes a decently priced single stage press which is what I use. Buddy of mine has an RCBS rockchucker and I really like it also.
 
Few more steps to loading rifle rounds. A case prep center is awesome. I load my .223 on my loadmaster but my .270,.308 and I will load my creedmoor on a single stage. Don't forget to lube the damn cases when sizing. One of the first things I did was get one stuck in a sizing die. Lee makes a decently priced single stage press which is what I use. Buddy of mine has an RCBS rockchucker and I really like it also.
I will most likely be buying brass already processed and ready to load. Trying to avoid that step!
 
550 is a great loader for .223, and with a semi-auto (assuming your SPR is an AR platform), you should be full case resizing anyway, which helps keep runout down when using good dies. But like Burt Gummer says, single stage is best for precision rounds in larger calibers.

Good piece on progressive loading for precision rifle at the link below.

http://www.65guys.com/precision-from-a-progressive-reloader/
 
I really like:
-The Forster Co-Ax and the precision dies https://www.forsterproducts.com/reloading/
- I'm now using full length dies and adjusting them to push the shoulder back 0.002" on a bolt gun, 0.05" on a semi. Bump gage--> http://www.brownells.com/reloading/...tors/sinclair-bump-gage-insert-prod35265.aspx
- Redding sizing wax, it also lasts a l-o-n-g time. http://www.sinclairintl.com/reloadi...ion/case-lube/imperial-die-wax-prod33078.aspx
- Instead of a tricker (I'm cheap) I fill a case with powder & trickle/roll the grains in to get the amount correct.
 
I'm still getting acquainted with a Redding T7 turret but so far I like it a lot. It's built like a tank and functions like a single stage press with 7 dies ready to use.
 
Another for Forster Co-Ax. Great piece of equipment. Only use the Rock Chucker for depriming and .40 cal push through sizing.
 
Definitely going with the Co-Ax press. Really seems to be little comparison when it comes to quality. Thanks for the recommendations!
If you're not familiar with Brownells, they have a lifetime warranty on everything they sell.
Let us know how you like it!
 
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If you are loading for a gas gun, then your ammo will most likely need to be full body resized on each loading unless you have an unusually tight chamber. This means you can skip the expense of neck sizing dies and go straight to full body dies and a seating die. A crimp die may also be helpful, if your seating dies does not also crimp. For precision rounds, I would keep the two separate. Crimping is not necessary for bolt guns.

Personally, I like Redding dies, but only because I have not tried Forster or L.E. Wilson, both of which keep calling me. I will answer in the near future, I am sure. That said, if you full body resize, and use a Co-ax press, I am not sure that it matters a whole lot, as any good die manufacturer should be capable of meeting <0.001" tolerances within their dies. Suggest reading how the seating dies work and choosing what makes sense to you.

Redding will even hone the neck on full body sizing dies to your specifications for a nominal fee (around $40 I think). I imagine Wilson has something similar.
 
If you are loading for a gas gun, then your ammo will most likely need to be full body resized on each loading unless you have an unusually tight chamber. This means you can skip the expense of neck sizing dies and go straight to full body dies and a seating die. A crimp die may also be helpful, if your seating dies does not also crimp. For precision rounds, I would keep the two separate. Crimping is not necessary for bolt guns.

Personally, I like Redding dies, but only because I have not tried Forster or L.E. Wilson, both of which keep calling me. I will answer in the near future, I am sure. That said, if you full body resize, and use a Co-ax press, I am not sure that it matters a whole lot, as any good die manufacturer should be capable of meeting <0.001" tolerances within their dies. Suggest reading how the seating dies work and choosing what makes sense to you.

Redding will even hone the neck on full body sizing dies to your specifications for a nominal fee (around $40 I think). I imagine Wilson has something similar.
Thanks. I will do some research on your suggestions.

The .223 is a gas gun. The 6.5 CM is a bolt gun but I want to start with loading .223 first.
 
Thanks. I will do some research on your suggestions.

Check out "6.5 Guys". They have some pretty practical assessments on different loading techniques, dies, tools, etc. They have an extensive library of topics that will keep you up until the wee hours of the morning if you are as OCD as I am.
 
Which dies would you all recommend to go with the Forster? I'm assuming Forster makes good dies as well?
I'm a fan of Redding and Forster rifle dies. It looks like Forster doesn't offer the Ultra die sets anymore, they were @ $80 for a Fl & Ultra seater a few years back, the Redding's were twice that.

http://www.sinclairintl.com/reloadi...s/ultra-micrometer-seater-dies-prod59246.aspx
DuckDuckGo says:
http://forum.accurateshooter.com/threads/redding-comp-dies-vs-forster-ultra-seater-dies.3895934/
http://www.predatormastersforums.com/forums/ubbthreads.php?ubb=showflat&Number=2041131
http://forum.accurateshooter.com/threads/redding-vs-forster-opinions-please.3757755/
 
For rifle reloading I use Redding dies. I have never had a problem with them. Remember to lube! I only own a single stage press but for precision loads single stage is the only way to go.
 
I use Lee dies... They appear to get the job done just fine without me paying extra. :) Keep in mind my swaging dies cost about $1200 per caliber so I'm not afraid to spend money. Just won't spend it if I don't think I'll see much of a difference.
That is exactly what I am looking for. I have a few pistols that cost over $3k that I shoot in competitions so I don't mind spending money where it's needed but hate to spend more than is necessary to accomplish the same job. Thanks for throwing that wrench in @mckenziedrums Lol
 
It depends on how deep into the precision cult you want to go... accuracy is almost completely in ammo consistency. To be the most precise, you have to strive to make each round as close to exactly the same as possible. I love a good RCBS Rock Chucker. They are good for loading ammo, but not cultist-level match ammo. The new press RCBS has out (Summit, I believe) is much better than a rock chucker for that purpose. Rock Chuckers and similar presses flex a little and have no give for the case to adjust to that flex. And the flex is different depending on how you pull the lever with each throw. This causes minute inconsistencies in concentricity, and therefor accuracy. Most guys stick with single stage presses for competition, as progressive presses have a bigger problem with the above concentricity issue. That's only the beginning... haha!
People vibrate the powder down in the case to settle it. This way they can fit more in on their hot loads, avoid bullets pushing out slightly from pressure, and have consistently settled charges for accuracy. Micrometer dies are a must for accuracy-cultist reloading. You can set the depth of the bullet EXACTLY and with some throwing skill, you can make sure each bullet is at the exact same depth.
 
It depends on how deep into the precision cult you want to go... accuracy is almost completely in ammo consistency. To be the most precise, you have to strive to make each round as close to exactly the same as possible. I love a good RCBS Rock Chucker. They are good for loading ammo, but not cultist-level match ammo. The new press RCBS has out (Summit, I believe) is much better than a rock chucker for that purpose. Rock Chuckers and similar presses flex a little and have no give for the case to adjust to that flex. And the flex is different depending on how you pull the lever with each throw. This causes minute inconsistencies in concentricity, and therefor accuracy. Most guys stick with single stage presses for competition, as progressive presses have a bigger problem with the above concentricity issue. That's only the beginning... haha!
People vibrate the powder down in the case to settle it. This way they can fit more in on their hot loads, avoid bullets pushing out slightly from pressure, and have consistently settled charges for accuracy. Micrometer dies are a must for accuracy-cultist reloading. You can set the depth of the bullet EXACTLY and with some throwing skill, you can make sure each bullet is at the exact same depth.
I am just looking to turn out some quality rounds that will shoot well in my guns. Reloading is and will never be my hobby, shooting is! Reloading is just a necessary evil to be able to shoot, I don't really enjoy it.
 
You can set the depth of the bullet EXACTLY

I can do the same with Lee dies and proper measuring tools. :) A better investment would be to get the proper tools to measure OAL from the o-give of bullets. All bullet seaters seat based on ogive anyways. The only reason I'd spend big bucks on dies would be to use arbor press style if I was in a bench rest competition where .0000001 matters. I've found that spending more time on making my own bullets had a bigger impact on accuracy than seating dies. That could partially be due to the fact that the Co-Ax also insures better alignment as well.
 
Lol. I have a only a few. Now, McKenzieDrums has ALL the cool toys!

Well I did... I screwed up and sold my Giraud annealer. Still have the unfortunately named Annealeez or whatever it is but the Giraud was much much nicer. :) Once the kids are out of daycare in 4 years or so I'll get another one.
 
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I am just looking to turn out some quality rounds that will shoot well in my guns. Reloading is and will never be my hobby, shooting is! Reloading is just a necessary evil to be able to shoot, I don't really enjoy it.
Roger that! If you're only doing to shoot more (perfectly fine, of course!) then you will be fine with your 650!! Much faster. Then you just need to find a bullet/powder combo your rifle likes and do just fine
 
I can do the same with Lee dies and proper measuring tools. :) A better investment would be to get the proper tools to measure OAL from the o-give of bullets. All bullet seaters seat based on ogive anyways. The only reason I'd spend big bucks on dies would be to use arbor press style if I was in a bench rest competition where .0000001 matters. I've found that spending more time on making my own bullets had a bigger impact on accuracy than seating dies. That could partially be due to the fact that the Co-Ax also insures better alignment as well.
Yes the co-ax is the best! The free floating doe and shell holders almost negate concentricity issues. As far as depth goes, that's adding another step isn't it? I measure everything when I'm trimming cases, but I love a micrometer die to do the work for me as long as I can be consistent with the throw. I haven't gone so far as to do arbor presses... don't know if I have the will to go full cultist
 
Micrometer die without an OAL gauge is kinda pointless... You don't know what depth to seat the bullet to if you're not measuring the jump to the lands with a modified case.
 
I like the Redding dies for my .223 loads, especially the sizing die with the optional carbide expander - I don't worry too much about lubing the inside of the necks anymore.

But, I decided to try one of the chamber type seating dies from Wilson, and have been VERY impressed with that. Almost no variation round-to-round in seating depth, and no concentricity issues with that die (an issue I was having with round nose 30-30 bullets in my Lee seating die). It is not press mounted, though, you can use a mallet or an arbor press (I bought the arbor conversion for my RCBS Summit press). I've heard the Forster seating die works as well, in the press.

https://www.midwayusa.com/product/1011115076/le-wilson-chamber-type-seater-die

They make a micrometer version as well. If I start loading any other caliber for precision, I will use one of these!
 
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https://www.hornady.com/reloading/p...tools-and-gauges/oal-gauges-modified-cases#!/ <-- Get one of those. That's the way you measure jump to the lands, etc. Once you dial in your powder load, it's time to adjust seating depth to optimize the precision. It DOES have an impact.
I've only used this setup for shoulder bump and COAL.
http://www.sinclairintl.com/reloadi...lair-bullet-seating-depth-tool-prod35491.aspx
http://www.sinclairintl.com/reloadi...ools/sinclair-bump-gage-insert-prod35265.aspx
And this one to measure cartridge OAL to ogive- http://www.sinclairintl.com/reloadi...insert-style-bullet-comparator-prod34014.aspx
 
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Micrometer die without an OAL gauge is kinda pointless... You don't know what depth to seat the bullet to if you're not measuring the jump to the lands with a modified case.
Ohhh yes yes ok I thought you meant you measured each one after seating the bullet lol! Yes you have to know that distance and whether or not your barrel likes to be jumped or not and how far to jump it. There's a red neck way to do it too if you don't have the gauge!
 
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