22/45 help

S4f

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Twice today at the steel match I pulled the trigger on my 22/45 and nothing happened then after I had time to look up from the sights the gun fired, I disassembled it yesterday for cleaning, an had the firing pin spring assembly out of the bolt, any ideas
 
OUCH. That ain't good.

Trouble shooting 101. If you have something that is working and you do something to it and it don't work no more it is likely (not always) something you did. Go back and recheck how you put it back together. Clean it again and triple check everything. Then test it under very controlled conditions. That is to say follow all the rules when you test fire it.

Could also be an issue with ammo although I don't ever recall seeing that before. Do you have anything else you can test fire the same ammo in?
 
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Yeah, that's the scariest malfunction I've heard! You might just consider taking it to a gunsmith, or even sending it to the manufacturer for a thorough look over by an expert.
 
What ammo?

Before you do anything else I’d start dryfiring to see if you can reproduce a scenario where there is a significant delay before you feel the hammer fall.

I always think ammo with a hang fire, so maybe try that box of ammo in another gun, maybe a revolver, and see if you can replicate the problem.
 
Another vote for ammo
 
What ammo?

Before you do anything else I’d start dryfiring to see if you can reproduce a scenario where there is a significant delay before you feel the hammer fall.

I always think ammo with a hang fire, so maybe try that box of ammo in another gun, maybe a revolver, and see if you can replicate the problem.
Federal auto match which I bought at the lgs the day before the match, I think we can rule out ammo, both times this happened, the trigger was dead until it fired, no click of the sear releasing, trigger moved moved all the way back then toggled freely as if there were no pressure on it till the gun fired
 
Does it do this when dry firing? Personally it sounds like excess grit in the trigger/sear area. I'd try to replicate it dry firing, then take the gun apart and clean very well and see if that fixes it. My volquartzen trigger has not fired a few times when it is really dirty. I ended up backing the overtravel screw out a bit, but it only did this when it was really dirty. The fact that this has happened to me (and my dad's gun) makes me think its something with the trigger/sear being dirty.
 
The gun has always functioned reliably till yesterday .shot one stage where it seemed the bolt wasn't traveling all the way rearward,had to manually cycle the bolt to get it to pick up a round put of the mag, took it back to the staging area disassembled it, reassembled it, then drenched the bolt in oil and hand cycled it 20 or thirty times and it ran for two stages thought this had solved the problem, ran two stages with no problem, then on the next to last stage had another delayed fire.
 
It does sound exactly like a pretravel/overtravel screw issue.
But with stock trigger that’s weird.
Disassemble bolt, examine firing pin return spring and little metal clip that holds it.
Just thinking out loud here.
 
It does sound exactly like a pretravel/overtravel screw issue.
But with stock trigger that’s weird.
Disassemble bolt, examine firing pin return spring and little metal clip that holds it.
Just thinking out loud here.

Think away, cause I got nothing, to be truthful mark 3 aren't my area of expertise if it was a 1911 I'd have it stripped down to the frame by now,
 
Think away, cause I got nothing, to be truthful mark 3 aren't my area of expertise if it was a 1911 I'd have it stripped down to the frame by now,

Check that bolt out. The return spring for the firing pin has a metal clip that often breaks on these pistols. It can maybe hang up, then release FP. I’ve had severa break when I shot lots of rimfire and it caused funky stuff to happen.
So worth checking.

Maybe @Studentofthegun or one of there high volume rimfire guys can come in with suggestions.
 
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The trigger being dead until firing is making me think it has nothing to do with the bolt. The bolt not moving completely to rear could also be a result of a dirty lower. Take the upper off and cock the hammer manually. You might get a feel for what is going on. I think you need to spray that thing out with one shot or break cleaner and then compressed air. Unless you want to take on taking it apart, which is what I would do, but it is a pain in the ass.

Edit: If the hammer was dropping and it was a hang fire type issue then definitely look at the bolt/firing pin. But if the hammer isn't dropping immediately, it pretty much rules out the bolt.
 
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Thanks for all the helpful tips, and as suggested earlier in the thread, my own stupidity is to balme for the malfunction, seems I forget the part about tilt the barrel up during reassembly so the hammer strut can fall into the correct position,took this to friend of mines who watched me disassemble and reassemble it twice each time asking me, are you sure you did that right, before clueing me in.the hammer strut was pretty much just floating
 
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Ah that’ll do it.

If you ever run into Ruger issues and you’re in Central NC I’m happy to fix them for ya. Just need to get my hands on the thing.
 
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I had trouble the first time reassembly, watched a 12yr young lady on youtube. GOT IT!
 
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