Optic for AR

jmccracken1214

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Plan on putting fixed irons on the rifle, but would like an optic as well.
Most shots will take place within 100 yards, but will take it out to 300 or so every now and then and would like an optic for that. I like the looks and size of the MRO but not sure how that'd fair at distance. I know a 1-4 or 1-6 would be better, but the objectives of those scopes im looking at are all 24mm and i'd prefer larger, for the more common, up close shots.

Is there anything that fits this gap, or am I being too picky?
 
IMO red dots are hard to beat for up close, 50 yards and in. With my eyes, I like a little magnification if I’m going to be precise any farther than that. Red dots also dominate in the battery life category. Seems like once a week I’d leave my battery powered 1-6 on and the battery would be drained when I picked it up a day or two later. Maybe not dead but definitely not bright. Probably not what you’re wanting to hear but guess it’s hard to have one gun that does it all.
 
I have a 3x Burris Prism optic for sale with the Ballistic CQ reticle...….. hint hint.

Seriously though...… for me either a Prism with low magnification or a Close Quarter scope around 1x4 - 1x6 magnification. Both with a ranging reticle...… for all practical purposes with what most people will do with an AR/AK/Semi auto (non match) type rifle, it's a good setup.
 
I have used the EOTech for YEARS, several of them. I love it, and have one on my go-to now. They are really fast up close, and because the dot only subtends 1 MOA, it is effective way out there. I have shot steel at 600 with one. Very important to shoot with both eyes open up close, then I usually go to the strong eye for longer shots.
I do also love the lower power scopes ( both eyes again !) , as long as they have an etched reticle.
My .2 YMMV
 
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I have Aimpoin, Holosun, Sig and Primary Arms red dots. I have no trouble ringing steel plates at 200 yards. It all depends on your intended purpose. The down side to a red dot is target indentification at longer distances. My vote is get a red dot and a lpvo with quick disconnects on both.
 
Fixed sights aren’t going to work with a scope, and dont really cowitness with a prism scope.

So if you intend fixed sights, red dot likely your only choice.
 
Fixed sights aren’t going to work with a scope, and dont really cowitness with a prism scope.

So if you intend fixed sights, red dot likely your only choice.


This.....

Unless you go 45 degree offset BUIS... (Rifle on right).

Otherwise fixed BUIS work well with a red dot or reflex sight. I prefer the Trijicon dual illuminated reflex due to my astigmatism, but I can ring steel pretty efficiently to 300 with it. (Left pistol, have a rifle setup identically though)

If you have the money a 3x ACOG is great at distance and with some practice also very fast up close, even without the RMR on top. But with it it's the best of both worlds. You'll have to use a folding BUIS with it still though and preferrably a good QD mount. (Middle rifle)

If you want to try before you buy let me know. You can shoot any of the below (or a few others...)
IMG_20181228_153143.jpg
 
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The Strike Eagle hit the market with a bang and has been steadily building a rep for poor quality.

Steiner P4Xi 1-4X seems to be the new h0tness.
 
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Fixed sights aren’t going to work with a scope, and dont really cowitness with a prism scope.

So if you intend fixed sights, red dot likely your only choice.

For the scoped option, the scope is mounted far enough forward, or high enough to clear your BUS rear sight, and mounted with quick release leavers. ( there are some pretty thin BUS) If you do it right, say with LaRue QD scope mount, the scope will return to same point of impact each time you take it on an off. It only takes 10 seconds or so to dismount.
I like the low power scope with an etched reticle, so the only time you would need to go to BUS is if you shattered the glass, or some other catastrophic event.

The cowitness is used to check one against the other visually, not to use the dot or reticle in conjunction with the front sight post as your sight picture. I always zero the irons first, then you can just adjust the red dot to sit on the tip of the front sight. You want to check the red dot zero via live fire of course. The whole point of a red dot is to only have one point of reference.

Certainly don't intend to sound preachy, just trying to share what little I know. (I am not the most articulate dude!) Always open to other opinions also!
My.02

EDIT Rantingredneck beat me to most of that while I was typing.
 
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The Strike Eagle hit the market with a bang and has been steadily building a rep for poor quality.

Steiner P4Xi 1-4X seems to be the new h0tness.

Well there is a reason why some companies get a rep for excellent customer service. Because it gets used a lot. :p
 
Well there is a reason why some companies get a rep for excellent customer service. Because it gets used a lot. :p

ohh....I have several Vortex optics and never had a problem. It seems to be this particualr model that's wonky.
 
For the scoped option, the scope is mounted far enough forward, or high enough to clear your BUS rear sight, and mounted with quick release leavers. ( there are some pretty thin BUS) If you do it right, say with LaRue QD scope mount, the scope will return to same point of impact each time you take it on an off. It only takes 10 seconds or so to dismount.
I like the low power scope with an etched reticle, so the only time you would need to go to BUS is if you shattered the glass, or some other catastrophic event.

The cowitness is used to check one against the other visually, not to use the dot or reticle in conjunction with the front sight post as your sight picture. I always zero the irons first, then you can just adjust the red dot to sit on the tip of the front sight. You want to check the red dot zero via live fire of course. The whole point of a red dot is to only have one point of reference.

Certainly don't intend to sound preachy, just trying to share what little I know. (I am not the most articulate dude!) Always open to other opinions also!
My.02

EDIT Rantingredneck beat me to most of that while I was typing.

I was responding to the very first sentence in the original post. “Fixed irons”.

Low power variable optics and prism scopes will not work with fixed irons. At least none that I am aware of. But red dots work well with them.

I didn’t say anything about “BUS” or sight pictures, or mounts, or how to zero red dots, or cowitness.
 
The Strike Eagle hit the market with a bang and has been steadily building a rep for poor quality.

Steiner P4Xi 1-4X seems to be the new h0tness.

yjN8yAm.jpg


HCAXVZx.jpg


Yup it’s the way to go for the price. Often can be found on sale with an ADM Recon mount for normal scope retail

If you can still find a Gen 1 PST 1-4x and don’t mind the busy-ish reticle, that’s a good option
 
Jim,

What rifle do you want to mount this on? I know of one Strike Eagle down range. No issues that I'm aware of.
IMG_5672.jpg

I still like my TA31 ACOG fixed 4x that I have on my M16A4 build. I shoot with both eyes open so field of view is inmaterial to me. My youngest son runs a Leupold Mark AR MOD 1 with the luminated reticle. Scopes can be mounted to fixed AR carrying handles with the proper mount. However, you'll then need a cheek piece to bring your head up.

IMG_0860Gray.jpg


On Red Dots for longer range consider a Dot with a variable MOA. Larger for up close and smaller for longer shoots.

CD
 
I was responding to the very first sentence in the original post. “Fixed irons”.

Low power variable optics and prism scopes will not work with fixed irons. At least none that I am aware of. But red dots work well with them.

I didn’t say anything about “BUS” or sight pictures, or mounts, or how to zero red dots, or cowitness.


All true, I probably should not have clouded the issue with BUS.
 
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Naw, it might be important consideration for op. It’s all good.

Thank's for understanding. I am new at this, I don't want you to think I was correcting you when I quoted your post, I was just using it as a template.
I like this forum, and certainly do not want to ruffle feathers.
 
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Thank's for understanding. I am new at this, I don't want you to think I was correcting you when I quoted your post, I was just using it as a template.
I like this forum, and certainly do not want to ruffle feathers.

Ruffling a few feathers prob do us all a bit of good.
We’re glad your here and respect your opinion.
 
[snip] I know a 1-4 or 1-6 would be better, but the objectives of those scopes im looking at are all 24mm and i'd prefer larger, for the more common, up close shots.
I don't understand how the objective size can make a difference in what you describe. Occular diameter maybe, or eye relief, or the diameter of a non magnified optic or reflex sight, but not the diameter of an objective lens.

If you go with magnified you will need a QD mount for it so you can get rid of it if it fails. A red dot can be mounted forward enough to be able to flip up a rear BUIS and can co-witness so no need for a QD, unless it is so badly damaged that it can't be seen through.

Something else to remember is that running a folded rear BUIS takes up some rear rail real estate and can affect getting enough eye relief for a magnified optic since you won't be able to place your scope mount all the way back. Lengthy scopes probably won't be a problem, but compact and prism scopes can, so a cantilever scope mount is a good investment.
 
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