Stihl M-tronic

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Anyone own a newer stihl with the computer controlled fuel system?

Been looking hard at a MS362 CM.
Still a little Leary of the no carb, selinoid controlled fuel system.

STIHL M-Tronic™ engine management system. With STIHL M-Tronic™, an onboard microprocessor digitally monitors and automatically compensates for changes in your work conditions including elevation, temperature, fuel quality, varying octane levels and dirty air filters.
 
Anyone own a newer stihl with the computer controlled fuel system?

Been looking hard at a MS362 CM.
Still a little Leary of the no carb, selinoid controlled fuel system.

STIHL M-Tronic™ engine management system. With STIHL M-Tronic™, an onboard microprocessor digitally monitors and automatically compensates for changes in your work conditions including elevation, temperature, fuel quality, varying octane levels and dirty air filters.

Dang what are you looking at a Stihl powered rocket!
 
That's a great saw. No need to be leary, M-tronic has been out for over 5 years now. Fuel injected saws are just around the corner, the first model will be in US dealers this year. One of Stihl's cut-off machines is fuel injected and has been out for a few years now.
 
My newest saw is a 261 with a standard carb. Once my 440 dies, it will be replaced by a carbed/ported 461 or 462.

Most of the builders like them but I staying old school as long as possible. The only model I know of with issues is the 661, I think they are up to version 3 on the software just to help those models. If you do buy a new one, get it from a well known local dealer so if you need the warranty, it will be easy.

As for the 362, I'm pretty sure the 400 will be replacing it soon but make sure you get the newest gen 2 saw which is a little lighter.

The 500i is the fuel injected saw, the specs so far on it seems to be a killer saw but who knows when it will be on the shelves.
 
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My newest saw is a 261 with a standard carb. Once my 440 dies, it will be replaced by a carbed/ported 461 or 462.

Most of the builders like them but I staying old school as long as possible. The only model I know of with issues is the 661, I think they are up to version 3 on the software just to help those models. If you do buy a new one, get it from a well known local dealer so if you need the warranty, it will be easy.

As for the 362, I'm pretty sure the 400 will be replacing it soon but make sure you get the newest gen 2 saw which is a little lighter.

The 500i is the fuel injected saw, the specs so far on it seems to be a killer saw but who knows when it will be on the shelves.

Great info!
Thanks.
 
My newest saw is a 261 with a standard carb. Once my 440 dies, it will be replaced by a carbed/ported 461 or 462.

Most of the builders like them but I staying old school as long as possible. The only model I know of with issues is the 661, I think they are up to version 3 on the software just to help those models. If you do buy a new one, get it from a well known local dealer so if you need the warranty, it will be easy.

As for the 362, I'm pretty sure the 400 will be replacing it soon but make sure you get the newest gen 2 saw which is a little lighter.

The 500i is the fuel injected saw, the specs so far on it seems to be a killer saw but who knows when it will be on the shelves.

Going to look at a lightly used 20" ms 362 carb model tonight. I'll inspect the piston via exhaust port for any signs of overheating.
Aside from bar/chain/sprocket condition and overall condition, anything I should inspect on it?
Any easy tests I can do to verify condition without actually cutting wood?
 
That’s the saw that I wanted to buy, decided to go a cheaper route and got a 271 instead. When I was researching the m tronic seems like a solid system, and with all the epa regulation now there’s not a lot of adjustment in the new carb saws.
 
I had a 271 for years and it was a great saw. Loaned it to a coworker last year and it was stolen. Just came across a nice MS361 at a pawn shop and finally have a larger saw again. Just used it to cut up some decent oak branches that fell recently and it is a beast. I’m used to my little echo cs3000 trim saw.
 
Going to look at a lightly used 20" ms 362 carb model tonight. I'll inspect the piston via exhaust port for any signs of overheating.
Aside from bar/chain/sprocket condition and overall condition, anything I should inspect on it?
Any easy tests I can do to verify condition without actually cutting wood?

Pulling the muffler is the best way to check the p&c, second would be a compression test. I would look for an aftermarket p&c, need to pull the top cover and recoil off to check that those are OEM Stihl.

JP8819 is correct, lot of clones out there. If it looks cheap, walk away.
 
That’s the saw that I wanted to buy, decided to go a cheaper route and got a 271 instead. When I was researching the m tronic seems like a solid system, and with all the epa regulation now there’s not a lot of adjustment in the new carb saws.

The carb screws have limiter tabs to keep them from turning so much, pull those off and you are good to tune as needed.
 
20190112_123434.jpg 20190112_123547.jpg Bucked some 24" sweetgum today with the new Ms362 20" bar.
Skip chain cuts really fast.
Big upgrade from my MS250.

The Ms250 feels like a toy after cutting with the 362.
Not sure I could run it safely for more than a couple hours, its heavy.
Once I get tired, I stop.
Respect the buzzsaw.
 
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That’s a great acquisition on a commercial grade saw. Nice score!

Noticed some fine sawdust in the carb box that shouldn't be there.

Apparently the 362 air filter is known for not seating well, basically leaking.
Multiple reports of commercial use saws losing lower ends due to dirt/dust contamination.
Stihl has an upgraded air filter to minimize it.
Hopefully I can find one online.
Cant help but scratch my head though.
Should not need to worry about an air filter!

That said, the saw cuts amazingly.

I now have 4 stihl saws that all take a different sized file. I made a roll out file pouch labeled with each size file.
I'll find a way to mix them up eventually!
The MS390 needs a new sprocket, bar and chain. I may replace the bar and chain with a Oregon #72 that uses a 3/16" file just to keep things common.

Bad logistics on my part.

017 5/32"
MS390 7/32"
MS261 7/32"
MS250 3/16"
MS362 13/64"
 
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Maybe cracker patch a seal with some mold release and rtv? Generously apply mold release around the sealing areas, apply a small bead of rtv and then install filter. Let dry and hope for the best!
 
Maybe cracker patch a seal with some mold release and rtv? Generously apply mold release around the sealing areas, apply a small bead of rtv and then install filter. Let dry and hope for the best!

LOL at cracker patch.
We are a little more high class...we call it a Ritz repair. ;)
 
@346ci

Any thoughts or recommendations on saw "safety" gloves? I want a pair just for cutting, not as a general work glove.

Anti vibration/kevlar.

Been eyeballing these:
51dI7r59D2L._AC_SY400_.jpg
Description
The Forester Hi-Vis Arborist Rope & Climbing Glove cannot be beaten! The glove is lined with Dupont Kevlar to meet ANSI Cut Level 4 Standards. The anti-slip palm and will grip better when wet! This glove also is built with impact protection on the back to help provide extra protection from smash and impact hazards.

Features & details
  • ANSI Cut Level 4
  • Impact Resistant
  • Anti Slip Palm
  • Hi-Vis Color
  • Extreme Breathable
 
I received the kevlar anti vibration gloves. Well made, great value for $20, in my opinion.
If you run saws, trimmers, power tools etc, grab a pair. I'm going to buy another set to rotate out.
They are not high dexterity, but running a chainsaw doesn't require it.
The thickness and padding are nice.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B07L44YVQ3?psc=1&ref=ppx_pop_mob_b_pd_title
 
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Newest saw purchase, MS 261 CM 50cc.
It will replace my MS250 45cc.
I really like the captured bar nuts, new style clutch cover and magnesium housing. Grock 43 for scaleage.
20190302_070155.jpg

It has the latest V.2.0 M tronic fuel system.
Check out the automotive style reusable air filter.
No choke position on these M tronic saws.
They meter fuel based on temp, elevation, air filter restriction, fuel octane, cutting load and if you shoot major or minor PF.
20190302_062946.jpg

This one will wear a 16" bar and a semi chisel chain.
The semi chisel is supposed to stay sharp longer in gritty/dirty wood, but does not cut as fast as full chisel.
The semi chisel is also more forgiving of a less than perfect sharpening job.
Semi chisel on the left. Full on the right. The full chisel uses the pointy tip to cut. That tip is easily blunted and tricky to correctly sharpen.
Both chains pictured are 3/8 pitch, .050 guage. The full chisel uses a 13/64th file. The semi uses a 7/32.
20190302_070447.jpg


Moral of the story, if you've never run a pro grade saw, don't. It will cost you money.

@346ci
@Fullboost21
 
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Newest saw purchase, MS 261 CM 50cc.
It will replace my 15 year old MS250 45cc.
I really like the captured bar nuts, new style clutch cover and magnesium housing. Grock 43 for scaleage.
View attachment 110149

It has the latest V.2.0 M tronic fuel system.
Check out the automotive style reusable air filter.
No choke position on these M tronic saws.
They meter fuel based on temp, elevation, air filter restriction, fuel octane, cutting load and if you shoot major or minor PF.
View attachment 110144

This one will wear a 16" bar and a semi chisel chain.
The semi chisel is supposed to stay sharp longer in gritty/dirty wood, but does not cut as fast as full chisel.
The semi chisel is also more forgiving of a less than perfect sharpening job.
Semi chisel on the left. Full on the right. The full chisel uses the pointy tip to cut. That tip is easily blunted and tricky to correctly sharpen.
Both chains pictured are 3/8 pitch, .050 guage. The full chisel uses a 13/64th file. The semi uses a 7/32.
View attachment 110150


Moral of the story, if you've never run a pro grade saw, don't. It will cost you money.

@346ci
@Fullboost21
Nice! The MS261 is the most versatile saw on the market IMO. Big power and light weight in a pro series. 16" bar for limbing, or throw on a 20" bar & chain for when you dont need to bring out a big saw. The new M-tronic 2.0 is a nice update over the original.
 
I agree, nice saw, big upgrade from a 250. I have the carbed version with a muffler mod and she pulls a 20" full skip with a 8 tooth rim pretty good for a 50cc saw.

We started on a large blown down oak today, used the ported 440 and new to me ported 461. A 32" is barely getting through half way up, going to be fun loading those on the trailer.
 
Noticed some fine sawdust in the carb box that shouldn't be there.

Apparently the 362 air filter is known for not seating well, basically leaking.
Multiple reports of commercial use saws losing lower ends due to dirt/dust contamination.
Stihl has an upgraded air filter to minimize it.
Hopefully I can find one online.
Cant help but scratch my head though.
Should not need to worry about an air filter!

That said, the saw cuts amazingly.

I now have 4 stihl saws that all take a different sized file. I made a roll out file pouch labeled with each size file.
I'll find a way to mix them up eventually!
The MS390 needs a new sprocket, bar and chain. I may replace the bar and chain with a Oregon #72 that uses a 3/16" file just to keep things common.

Bad logistics on my part.

017 5/32"
MS390 7/32"
MS250 3/16"
MS362 13/64"

I'm no pro with small engines much less chainsaws. But I've always put some grease around the edge of the surface the air filter sits against. Most experience with weed eaters, blowers, etc. Where the filter cover tends to distort with age. Creating uneven tension on the filter.

The stiction of the grease keeps the filter flush to it's housing under load and keeps any slight gaps from allowing fine particulates to bypass.

Used this trick during my MX days for super dusty conditions. In my experience it transferred perfectly to my tools.



I despise the innumerable chain configs. I get why they exist but it still annoys me to no end....
 
That's a great saw. No need to be leary, M-tronic has been out for over 5 years now. Fuel injected saws are just around the corner, the first model will be in US dealers this year. One of Stihl's cut-off machines is fuel injected and has been out for a few years now.
Yeah and that cut off saw is a piece of junk. I had to buy a new old style. Never gonna buy a saw with electronic/computer system. Anybody want to buy a non working Stihl cutoff saw?
 
View attachment 97928 View attachment 97930 Bucked some 24" sweetgum today with the new Ms362 20" bar.
Skip chain cuts really fast.
Big upgrade from my MS250.

The Ms250 feels like a toy after cutting with the 362.
Not sure I could run it safely for more than a couple hours, its heavy.
Once I get tired, I stop.
Respect the buzzsaw.

My OCD is blowing a damn gasket over the bar being upside down.

Other that that sweet setup.
 
After using the semi chisel to cut range trees (cutting through embedded bullets)
I can report that the semi chisel holds its edge significantly better than full chisel.

It cuts slower, but still makes nice chips after going thru dirty wood.
20190303_090346.jpg
 
24" tsumara lightweight stainless bar on my MS660 (92cc).

It's like a 50bmg, but in a chainsaw.
Not very practical but fun as hell.

The saw is listed as ok to use with a 36" although I have no wood that large.
Using a 24" bar on this saw is like buying a 3/4 ton truck to haul a sheet of plywood.
;)

I'm done buying saws for awhile.
I've got a 50cc, 60cc and 90cc.
That covers all my bases.

@346ci
20190320_173948.jpg
 
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I'm done buying saws for awhile.

Now you need some stylish orange kevlar chaps and the dapper orange hat with the screen and built-in ear pro. Then you can be as cool as me. OK, well not quite 'as cool', but that's really not possible for mere mortals to achieve.

If you need help mis-sharpening a chain so the saw always cuts off to one side, let me know. I'm somehow and expert on that.
 
24" tsumara lightweight stainless bar on my MS660 (92cc).

It's like a 50bmg, but in a chainsaw.
Not very practical but fun as hell.

The saw is listed as ok to use with a 36" although I have no wood that large.
Using a 24" bar on this saw is like buying a 3/4 ton truck to haul a sheet of plywood.
;)

I'm done buying saws for awhile.
I've got a 50cc, 60cc and 90cc.
That covers all my bases.

@346ci
View attachment 114181

When can we stick motor in a gokart?
 
Nice! Got some 36”+ oak that needs blocking if you need something for the 660 to stretch its legs on.
 
It was a warm one for that type work! Split some few weeks back and started early in the morning and then knocked off when it started warming up and wasn’t to bad but not fun then. I like winter for that job.
 
Sold it. Dont have a big saw currently.


My brand new "big saw" replacement has arrived.
13lbs, 72.2cc. Ported MS462C
Stihls highest power to weight ratio ever.
This saw really makes bucking fun and it's not so heavy that it kicks my butt.
It definitely punches well above its weight class. I can run up to a 28" bar. That covers all my needs. It will normally wear a 20" lightweight bar and occasionally drop down to an 18" when I am bucking locust. This thing RIPS.
20191010_160711.jpg
 
Man oh man I just gotta say you guys bought the wrong color orange. Husqvarna is where it's at! (Just busting balls a little). I'm slowly switching all my saws over to autotune and I'd like to say I haven't had any issues, but a few weeks ago my 4mo old 550xp mark 2 had a high idle and throwing a code for internal throttle mechanism. Currently in for warranty repair so we'll see what happens with her. I've had my 562xp for a year now and haven't had a single issue. Purchased October 18 and by April 19 had 55 hours on it so I've definitely been giving it some run time.
 
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