Form 1 9mm brain trust.

CHRIS_WNC

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I've got another thread going about making a 9mm bolt action. This is a separate one to discuss suppression options.

My intention is to F1 and SBR the rifle and use removable can on it. But several people have mentioned maybe doing an integral of some sort or doing a permanent attach so it would be a one stamp gun. The barrel length will be 8"-10" and I will be shooting 147 and 158 subs mostly.

Some random questions I have for you guys that have been studying, researching, and building F1 cans are:

1. Is there a proven recipe for a 9mm suppressor for a PCC type rifle? Tube size, Tube length, baffle type?

2. My only experience with an integral suppressor is my Gemtech Mist. It has a monocore baffle setup that is fixed to a short barrel and a large tube that covers all of that. Is that something that is possible with 9mm? Are monocore "kits" available for F1 guys? Will monocore performance be acceptable with 9mm?

3. If I have the tube body/thread adapter welded to the barrel, I need to make everything front loading. Are there issues with that?

I'm sure I'll be adding more questions as this project moves on.

CHRIS
 
I know nothing, but it seems to me that attaching the core to the barrel makes a lot more sense than attaching the tube. If you attach the tube and the core gets stuck in the tube you’ll have no easy way to pound it out. If you attach the core you can put a strap wrench on the tube.
 
I have two aluminum monocore cans and I hate them both.
One is a 45acp, the other RF.
I do see the utility of monocore in your application.

After dealing with stuck cores, beating on things, scratching up the tubes etc....I'd just pay the extra $200.

The round count with a bolt gun will probably be low so big volume crustyness and a smoking hot suppressor probably won't be an issue...

I have a lightweight aluminum pistol can and a heavy pistol/carbine can.
One is 9mm & one 45acp. I use the 45acp for testing bullet stability since it has a giant 1/2" hole in the end cap.

Bottom line, I like the ability to swap cans around.

Off topic, but you could shoot 9mm super in that carbine.
124gr FMJ @1400 FPS. Basically a 357mag.
 
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I have a Griffin Rev 9 and 45 already. I was thinking something similar, removable and light weight, would be handy.

I’m starting my research in the different core types, materials, tube types, spacing, mount types and such. It’s mind boggling! I could just copy those Rev suppressors and make an 8” direct thread and go with that. Lots of options!

CHRIS
 
@Tim has a Form 1 can on his AR9, so he should have some input.

All kinds of options out there, especially for a direct thread (non-boosted) application.

I have a solvent trap on order to make one as well.
 
@Tim has a Form 1 can on his AR9, so he should have some input.

All kinds of options out there, especially for a direct thread (non-boosted) application.

I have a solvent trap on order to make one as well.


While I DO have an F1 can on my 9mm SBR, I’m probably not the guy to talk to. My research on the subject amounted to, “hey, these guys make a kit, and I can work a lathe...I’ll buy that. “
 
I have a Griffin Rev 9 and 45 already. I was thinking something similar, removable and light weight, would be handy.

I’m starting my research in the different core types, materials, tube types, spacing, mount types and such. It’s mind boggling! I could just copy those Rev suppressors and make an 8” direct thread and go with that. Lots of options!

CHRIS
By no means am I an expert, but I did sleep at a holiday in once. Depending out what type of mount you want to go there should be an option out there.

These guys use sico mounts

https://www.form1builder.com/product/sico-asr-mount-adapter/

Thses guys use sico, yhm, griffin, q, ect ect.....
https://diversifiedmachine.us/shop/


The one I went with uses the gemtech LID mounts. I built a 9mm specific supressor to use on 9mm and lower. I just change out the end cap for other calibers. Volume is you friend but too much and its just wasted, a bunch of baffles are not necessarily the best, baffle shape matters, but it all depends on what you want to do with it.

If you have any specific questions shoot me a pm woth your nimber and ill give you a call.


Edit: there are a bunch more details, baffle material, tube material, ect.

I was told by multiple people that a "b tube" was to small, and wpuldnt be affective on reducing noise. I have videos that prove them otherwise, after doing the math, my form 1 b tube has the same volume as a si.co harvester.

I feel like the benefit to building your own is the option for removable baffles, cost, and lack of wait time. Plus if you like to build or tinker it can be fun.
 
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@CHRIS_WNC

If you wanted to try the standard D-cell tubes that are available from a variety of sources, and use freeze plugs, let me know. I have the jig around here to form them.

Mine turned out pretty decent.

9BCC5CD3-0CD4-43EC-9FFD-D6BC8A33F08E.jpeg E0A88785-3C24-4C0A-9D79-7537DC006EF3.jpeg

But I got pretty decent at it after making enough to fill six tubes. :D

20944294-616F-49B6-AF24-C7F867B4F02D.jpeg
ED6F37A9-DE36-460F-A598-A31EC3B02E7E.jpeg
 
I ordered an 8” titanium D tube and a radial baffle kit last night. It’s a direct thread version. The baffle kit comes with 2 stainless and 5 titanium baffles. I have to figure out my numbers for the spacing before I can order the spacers.

I probably should order an aluminum tube of some sort and go with freeze plugs like and set up a less expensive one too.

I guess I need to practice doing my own fingerprints this weekend!

CHRIS
 
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