Solvent trap kits

@BigWaylon was by earlier and was showing one of these

Compared to the commercial made .22 can all I could hear was the firing pin drop then the bullet cutting tree limbs It literally sounded like an air rifle

Imho the commercial can was a wee bit louder.
This was one of the more shocking/surprising moments I’ve had shooting silencers.

The first time I shot my suppressed 300BLK and heard the buffer spring go sproing in my ear was another.

I stopped by to see @LeeMajors after picking up my cans from being Cerakoted. I had put my CZ455 and RAR in the truck. The CZ has an Element 2 on it and the Ruger has a Sparrow.

We took a couple shots with the CZ/Element and the RAR/Sparrow. Then we put the F1 can on the RAR. Now, I have a little experience with silencers. I think he said he’d never heard a suppressed 22LR. I took the first shot and we just kinda looked at each other....like “did we just hear what we thought we did?” Took a couple more shots to make sure it wasn’t a fluke shot.

Without a doubt, the F1 can was noticeably quieter than two commercial cans. One of which (the Element) is held in high regards as one of the quietest ever made. This F1 was a kit from DM with a 1.125”x6” aluminum tube and ends, two SS radials and four Ti radials bored/clipped by ECCO, and Ti spacers.
 
Got my three Ti F1 cans boxed up for a recore, along with the two (22 and 9) that are going back to Nick for a small final tweak.

The three .30 cans are full of FPs and are going to get a serviceable stack installed.
 
Well I went ahead and ordered an eBay 5/8-24 monocore trap 1.4x6". Should be interesting to see how it performs with 300blk subs. I don't mind if it winds up being a wet can. Will find out when the slow boat gets here in a month or so.
 
Giggity giggity.

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Getting ready to take these to the range tomorrow. (didn’t shoot them, yet) Figured I’d put them on the scale to confirm weights from Nick. I didn’t measure them, so I’ll use what he said for lengths:

6.6” = 13.8oz

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7.5” = 15.5oz

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8.5” = 17.1oz

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Nick just posted pics up of his first Specwar conversion...to KeyMo in this specific job.

https://www.ar15.com/forums/Armory/...ersion/20-502349/?page=2&anc=5169158#i5175195
Maybe I missed something

He takes a factory suppressor and cuts the end off, to then install a more universal mount?

People are paying money to lose a factory warranty but gain a new mounting system?

Maybe they should have bought a new can with the correct mounting system.

We all know can life isn’t forever and they are putting more money into modifying a current suppressor than buying what they wanted in the first place.

People most certainly do things because they can but it doesn’t always mean it’s a logical move.
 
Maybe I missed something

He takes a factory suppressor and cuts the end off, to then install a more universal mount?

People are paying money to lose a factory warranty but gain a new mounting system?

Maybe they should have bought a new can with the correct mounting system.

We all know can life isn’t forever and they are putting more money into modifying a current suppressor than buying what they wanted in the first place.

People most certainly do things because they can but it doesn’t always mean it’s a logical move.
The most of his work along these lines has been on AAC 51T cans. He said he’s has quite a few asking about Specwars and finally did one. Most of the time they’re on cans people say they just aren’t using much anymore.

The 51T has a reputation of having a wobble sometimes and not being very accurate for others. It shares a similar problem with the Specwar (ASR) mounting system in that you have to manipulate a collar on the end to lock it in place...so no ability to tuck the can if you wanted to.

I’d guess most people getting this done are already using other brand cans and muzzle devices. So instead of buying an additional can, with a tax stamp, and the associated wait...they’re spending $250 or so and waiting a week or two turnaround for a silencer that they can now share mounts with other ones they have. Ship directly back and forth, no stamp, and able to use items that they bought years ago and have become back-of-the-safe items.

In most cases he’s making them so they have the Omega thread pitch, so you could use any of the QD mounts that fit as well as direct thread.
 
The most of his work along these lines has been on AAC 51T cans. He said he’s has quite a few asking about Specwars and finally did one. Most of the time they’re on cans people say they just aren’t using much anymore.

The 51T has a reputation of having a wobble sometimes and not being very accurate for others. It shares a similar problem with the Specwar (ASR) mounting system in that you have to manipulate a collar on the end to lock it in place...so no ability to tuck the can if you wanted to.

I’d guess most people getting this done are already using other brand cans and muzzle devices. So instead of buying an additional can, with a tax stamp, and the associated wait...they’re spending $250 or so and waiting a week or two turnaround for a silencer that they can now share mounts with other ones they have. Ship directly back and forth, no stamp, and able to use items that they bought years ago and have become back-of-the-safe items.

In most cases he’s making them so they have the Omega thread pitch, so you could use any of the QD mounts that fit as well as direct thread.
I guess repurposing a non-used suppressor is a good idea. Never had an issue with my sdn6. Hell, they still sell them same configuration today as they have the last 7 years. I know ar15 has a long thread about the adapter problem, but if you look at the users who have posted and count them (not counting every post, just people) versus the amount of suppressor sold, the thread might be 2% of all buyers. perspective... that’s all. Negative feedback congregates. I think his service is a great idea, just not sure it worth the cost over a new can with 7+ years of newer technology.

Once again, I don’t think his idea is bad, but $250 for a service plus shipping and a adapter (if you don’t already own one) is up around $400 to convert you existing suppressor. If you own an adapter it’s still the same cost. Unless you have 2 adapters (one for your current suppressor and one for the upgraded one)
 
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I guess repurposing a non-used suppressor is a good idea. Never had an issue with my sdn6. Hell, they still sell them same configuration today as they have the last 7 years. I know ar15 has a long thread about the adapter problem, but if you look at the users who have posted and count them (not counting every post, just people) versus the amount of suppressor sold, the thread might be 2% of all buyers. perspective... that’s all. Negative feedback congregates. I think his service is a great idea, just not sure it worth the cost over a new can with 7+ years of newer technology.

Once again, I don’t think his idea is bad, but $250 for a service plus shipping and a adapter (if you don’t already own one) is up around $400 to convert you existing suppressor. If you own an adapter it’s still the same cost. Unless you have 2 adapters (one for your current suppressor and one for the upgraded one)
Like you said, it’s a matter of perspective. If you’ve had issues with the mount or have changed over to another mounting system and therefore don’t shoot it, $250-400 is an excellent value vs a new can at $700+ not including tax stamp & xfer/sales tax.

Time is obviously a factor, 2wk vs ~6mo.

If you don’t modify the old can, it sits in the safe never to be used therefore is a complete loss. Why not breathe new life back into it? Sure you can treat it like a piece of machinery and say you’ve gotten your useful life out of it over 7yr, but it’ll always be staring at you as a paper weight knowing you do have options.
 
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Here are a couple pics of the DM kits after ECCO handled the boring & clipping. He also added the cutouts to the inside of the DT adapters so I can use a 12pt 5/8 socket to remove them if they get stuck on the barrel (both will be dedicated to builds where they’re recessed).

Here are several closeups of the DM kits after Nick worked on them. THSF did the engraving today, and they’re getting cerakoted (along with the tubeless cans) this weekend.

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Now, after they’re cerakoted, they’re going back to ECCO for something I didn’t think about while he had them. DM puts a spacer after the last cone, which seems to be a waste. Nick is going to remove that spacer, push the stack down, and make a new blast baffle for both the 9mm and 22 kits.
Just got this pic of the two new blast baffles. Heat treated 17-4.

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He’s sending me the 22 & 9 cans back along with a rail I had him cut down. Already in route.

The other three are going into a low priority stack due to his workload and my lack of urgency.

As of now, @patina and I are going to run the first three plus the 9 & 22 on a handful of hosts next week. Looking forward to seeing how they do.
 
Do you know if he does monocore conversions ? Something like an integral CZ455 barrel?
I could throw together a really crappy one and let him recore it if that's an option. lol.

CHRIS
 
Nick sent me a pic of my SDN-6. It looks like a factory job. I had him convert it to use a Q Plan B. He turned down the 1.56” flange of the Plan B to match the 1.5” diameter of the SDN-6 and adapter. He really does amazing work!
I would always baby it after having to send it back to AAC to get the latch replaced. It also was very hard to connect to one of the 51 tooth mounts I had. It's great to not have to worry about that anymore.
SDN-6.jpg
 
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Do you know if he does monocore conversions ? Something like an integral CZ455 barrel?
I could throw together a really crappy one and let him recore it if that's an option. lol.

CHRIS
I asked him about monocores early on because of a thread I’d found somewhere. He said:

I don't do monocores at all anymore. Played with the in the beginning, quickly realized they're a dead end outside of rimfire applications.

But you’re asking about a rimfire, so maybe? If you checked out his YouTube channel, you’ve figured out he can probably do about anything. Might be something at least worth asking about.
 
I emailed him. He said it’s possible but I need to get him “something” to recore. I need to get busy with my lathe and get to that point! I think I’m going to go ahead and submit paperwork for two integrals this week.

CHRIS
 
I emailed him. He said it’s possible but I need to get him “something” to recore. I need to get busy with my lathe and get to that point! I think I’m going to go ahead and submit paperwork for two integrals this week.

CHRIS
If he does it, you’re welcome to add the pics to my thread in the DIY section on ARF. I have a feeling he’s gonna be busy for the foreseeable future doing retrofits and recores.
 
Got the 9 & 22 DM kits back from Nick today. Work done was:

1. Ditch the last spacer (between last radial and end cap)
2. Remove lip from last radial so it sit more flush against end cap
3. Mark the radials on the outside edge for easier aligning of clips (I added the sharpie mark)
4. Push whole stack towards end cap and make new double-clipped skirted blast baffle in heat-treated 17-4

Stacks now looks like this, except there’s also a blast chamber spacer that I didn’t put in the pic so the blast baffle was visible.

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Will get the two hosts put back together this weekend and range trip planned for Tuesday 9/24.
 
Pffft. There's probably been 30,000 of those things sold, and there's nothing illegal about them. Even walmart was selling them.

The best comment was "we can't round up illegals, but we can roll the Tahoes to knock on doors about aluminum tubing."

They're still on Ebay by the way. Not sure I believe the story.
 
Evidently Aegis is about to release this style:

I’m not understanding that at all. Looks like it’s supposed to be able to screw together but it doesn’t look like the baffles have female threads.


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I’m not understanding that at all. Looks like it’s supposed to be able to screw together but it doesn’t look like the baffles have female threads.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
If the piece in the top picture on the right is a baffle it does have female threads.
 
If the piece in the top picture on the right is a baffle it does have female threads.

You’re right. I think I may have been looking at the end cap and didn’t register that’s what it was (the short piece). Duh


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So I went ahead and did a couple of monocore aluminum .22lr cans with my two recently approved e-Forms. The monocore is a muzzle brake that I bought on Etsy. :p I had to turn some of the OD down enough to fit inside of a aluminum tube. Then make an end cap that threaded into the end of the monocore. It holds the tube in place. I only had enough time to make one of the end caps so far. I'll get the other one made and Moly Resin coat everything in black and cook it on. OAL of the longer can is going to be about 6.5", the little one is 4.25".

This is taken from the Etsy ad that is no longer listed for some reason. They were $39 and $49 dollars.
AAdfIO7.jpg


Monocore, tube, and single end cap (so far).
gVbWn52.jpg


How it all goes together. The edges where I turned the ports aren't super smooth. There was a little flash? left over from turning. I didn't debur hoping it will help with turbulence or whatever its called.
np0SrCC.jpg


The bottom one is all screwed together.
BkdUljZ.jpg


I marked the tubes with a 50 watt fiber laser with rotary. I did the turning of the monocore and made the end cap on my recently purchased lathe that I'm still learning how to use.

CHRIS
 
A little progress pic I just got from ECCO on my next three recores...

B755BCC8-EA9E-4916-8E17-79E774A626B9.jpeg

He still has to make 15 more baffles, do the index cuts, clip the noses...and heat treat.
 
More progress...

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This is what the baffles will end up looking like after the index cut and heat treat.

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So I went ahead and did a couple of monocore aluminum .22lr cans with my two recently approved e-Forms. The monocore is a muzzle brake that I bought on Etsy. :p I had to turn some of the OD down enough to fit inside of a aluminum tube. Then make an end cap that threaded into the end of the monocore. It holds the tube in place. I only had enough time to make one of the end caps so far. I'll get the other one made and Moly Resin coat everything in black and cook it on. OAL of the longer can is going to be about 6.5", the little one is 4.25".

This is taken from the Etsy ad that is no longer listed for some reason. They were $39 and $49 dollars.
AAdfIO7.jpg


Monocore, tube, and single end cap (so far).
gVbWn52.jpg


How it all goes together. The edges where I turned the ports aren't super smooth. There was a little flash? left over from turning. I didn't debur hoping it will help with turbulence or whatever its called.
np0SrCC.jpg


The bottom one is all screwed together.
BkdUljZ.jpg


I marked the tubes with a 50 watt fiber laser with rotary. I did the turning of the monocore and made the end cap on my recently purchased lathe that I'm still learning how to use.

CHRIS
I saw those on there, I wanted to get one and now there gone
 
Not saying it’s the case here, but a lot of the stuff that “vanished” is still there with really weird titles.
 
I saw those on there, I wanted to get one and now there gone
Search for Wix 4003. Just saw a couple on eBay like that. Might be on Amazon or other places as well.
 
Just got some final pics from Nick. Weights ended up being 15.7oz (7”), 18.0oz (8”) and 20.6oz (9”). Full heat treated 17-4 serviceable stacks. 7, 9 and 11 baffles.

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So how did this work? You sent him your approved F1 tube and he machined the innards to your spec?
These are ones I’ve had for several years. He needs the tube and end caps. I didn’t give him any real direction on the innards...but I’m sure I could’ve if I had something in mind.

If you already have internals, they need to be disposed of...by you or him. :cool:
 
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