Hand checkering 1911 front strap. Anyone done it?

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And if so, which fixture/jig, and files did you use?
I’ve seen Brownells offerings, and it looks like I could send the gun off to a smith to have it done for what their checkering fixture would cost, plus file/s.

I’d like to try it myself, having had some success fitting beavertails, and other metal parts.
 
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I did the same just recently and decided it’s above my skill level. For me it looks like a great way to eff up a $1000 dollar gun tryna save $20.
For me it’s more about doing it, than the money saved, but I AM leery of making a mess. I ground down the frame tangs an 1/8” on a Colt last year and fit an upswept beavertail, and it turned out well both functionally and cosmetically. I was making an antique clock reproduction in shop class when I was 15 when everyone else was making bookends, so I’m pretty sure I can do it. I just want to start out with the right tools. The guys on a 1911 forum use a fixture of some sort to start and some of them freehand it after the first few lines. *egad*
 
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Same here - I’d love to have the skills to do this. I even considered buying the tools and practicing on a piece of stock.
 
I did a set of grips for one of my gun and it didn't turn out to bad. At least I didn't think so. It is labor intensive and you cannot rush. Lighting is critical. Watch a couple of videos about how it is done. You would think bright light is the key but shaded works better. It creates a shadow on the line which helps you to see it better. If you can get some scrap metal in the correct shape practice on it. I had the luxury of cutting the lines and not liking them and just sanding them down twice because I started the grips way thicker than I needed. You won't have that option.

You will never know if you don't try so go for it.
 
I did a set of grips for one of my gun and it didn't turn out to bad. At least I didn't think so. It is labor intensive and you cannot rush. Lighting is critical. Watch a couple of videos about how it is done. You would think bright light is the key but shaded works better. It creates a shadow on the line which helps you to see it better. If you can get some scrap metal in the correct shape practice on it. I had the luxury of cutting the lines and not liking them and just sanding them down twice because I started the grips way thicker than I needed. You won't have that option.

You will never know if you don't try so go for it.
I saw your thread earlier. Impressive work.
 
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Try it on a piece of 3/4" or 1" black pipe and see how it goes.
 
Practice on something you don't care about!!! Caspian used to cut up scrapped frames and sell the magwell portion for people to practice checkering....Get one! This process is nothing at all like fitting a beavertail. On a scale of 1-10, fitting a beavertail with a file is about a 1.5 level of difficulty. Doing professional quality checkering on a frame is about an 8. Paying someone to do a nice machine checkering job that is straight, comes to points, and is even will seem like a bargain.
 
Practice on something you don't care about!!! Caspian used to cut up scrapped frames and sell the magwell portion for people to practice checkering....Get one! This process is nothing at all like fitting a beavertail. On a scale of 1-10, fitting a beavertail with a file is about a 1.5 level of difficulty. Doing professional quality checkering on a frame is about an 8. Paying someone to do a nice machine checkering job that is straight, comes to points, and is even will seem like a bargain.
If cutting an 1/8” off blued frame tangs is 1.5 of 10 I’m assuming they didn’t turn out like this.

First run at fitting grip safety. There are lots of other pictures of detail work but this is the abridged version. The intended pistol for the checkering project is stainless, not blued like this one.

D1CC46DB-B9C4-4063-BDB4-D13120B5B68F_1_201_a.jpeg
CE590ADE-D91A-4C75-8B55-141E71458E71_1_201_a.jpeg 1AB15652-09FD-4E28-97CD-62A848085738.jpeg
Voila. Match blaster.
58DE44A2-FF6B-4416-B1C4-6C69A5EB48A8.jpeg

Thanks for the suggestions though.
 
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Keep us posted on the progress... I would love to checker the front of my 1911...
Chris upthread sent the jig and files as promised for 30 LPI checkering. Since this is for another match blaster I decided to go with more aggressive checkering. The checkering on the mainspring housings of Smith and Alexander "mag guides” that I use nearly exclusively is 20LPI, so that is likely what I will go with once I finish mustering up the courage to do it.
 
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Hurry up, I wanna see it. :)

This is the blaster in question. Scuffed up from being shoved in and out kydex a ton. I just sent an email to a friend who hand checkered his stainless Springer and undercut the trigger guard. It looks great. I need to figure out how to refinish that bead blasted area of mine after undercutting the trigger guard and hoping he’ll illuminate me. Mine’s not a safequeen, but I don’t want it to look like I tried and couldn’t.

You’ll notice the finish on the Wilson thumb safety doesn’t match the other controls so I am not THAT worried about things not looking perfect, but I don’t want it to look sloppy either.

F08D094B-11C8-4697-BB96-3952485BF432_1_201_a.jpeg
 
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You’ll notice the finish on the Wilson thumb safety doesn’t match the other controls so I am not THAT worried about things not looking perfect, but I don’t want it to look sloppy either.
I know its the pics, but if you wouldnt have told me, I wouldnt have even noticed. You cant beat a Springer 1911 for bang for your buck.
 
This is the blaster in question. Scuffed up from being shoved in and out kydex a ton. I just sent an email to a friend who hand checkered his stainless Springer and undercut the trigger guard. It looks great. I need to figure out how to refinish that bead blasted area of mine after undercutting the trigger guard and hoping he’ll illuminate me. Mine’s not a safequeen, but I don’t want it to look like I tried and couldn’t.

You’ll notice the finish on the Wilson thumb safety doesn’t match the other controls so I am not THAT worried about things not looking perfect, but I don’t want it to look sloppy either.

View attachment 174063

Spot blaster is perfect for that application...
 
Is there a particular one you can recommend for a small, likely one-off, project?

Got mine from harbor freight. Think it was only $30? Just need a compressor and a couple of cheap fittings to adapt to a air hose(also available there). Throw some play sand in it and go. Dry the sand first so it flows if it's wet when you buy it. Alternatively, they sell different levels/types of abrasive pretty cheap, but that's mostly for removing coatings, prepping for coating, or such.

I'd loan you mine but we'd spend more on gas to exchange it than a new one would cost you, lol...
 
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Got mine from harbor freight. Think it was only $30? Just need a compressor and a couple of cheap fittings to adapt to a air hose(also available there). Throw some play sand in it and go. Dry the sand first so it flows if it's wet when you buy it. Alternatively, they sell different levels/types of abrasive pretty cheap, but that's mostly for removing coatings, prepping for coating, or such.

I'd loan you mine but we'd spend more on gas to exchange it than a new one would cost you, lol...
I see them on Amazon too.
 
Old gunsmithing instructor told me its way easier to stipple frontstraps... Just grab a punch and hammer and get to banging. He did say that the make of the 1911 will greatly affect how hard it will be to get the desired amount of stippling. I did it on a colt goldcup natl match that was stainless. Ill say this, i got there finally but that steel was very very veeeeeery hard. Halfway thru i wished i hadnt started. I eventually finished it and it felt so good that a friend offered me 1500 for it. Sold! Good luck with the checkering. its a very nice looking gun.
 
If cutting an 1/8” off blued frame tangs is 1.5 of 10 I’m assuming they didn’t turn out like this.

First run at fitting grip safety. There are lots of other pictures of detail work but this is the abridged version. The intended pistol for the checkering project is stainless, not blued like this one.

View attachment 173954
View attachment 173955 View attachment 173956
Voila. Match blaster.
View attachment 173958

Thanks for the suggestions though.
Dammit Boy!!! That is as good as I have ever seen. Looks way better than some of the "names" do.
 
Dammit Boy!!! That is as good as I have ever seen. Looks way better than some of the "names" do.
Thanks Billy. Slow and steady seems to be the ticket on these projects, and I ask anybody and everybody for advice.
And thanks to @Mike V for the use of his grinders and files.
 
Old gunsmithing instructor told me its way easier to stipple frontstraps... Just grab a punch and hammer and get to banging. He did say that the make of the 1911 will greatly affect how hard it will be to get the desired amount of stippling. I did it on a colt goldcup natl match that was stainless. Ill say this, i got there finally but that steel was very very veeeeeery hard. Halfway thru i wished i hadnt started. I eventually finished it and it felt so good that a friend offered me 1500 for it. Sold! Good luck with the checkering. its a very nice looking gun.
@Michael458 and I did a stipple job on a P35 once. It looked as good as if done by Swenson. There was one Small problem, the magazine wouldn't go in any more. …………………………….yeah we finally fixed it But it was a Learning Experience.

Our pal Don Carroway was watching us take turns whamming it with the hammer and punch and said....Damn boys Slow Down, ya'll aint on production.
 
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Always something, even before the frame is stripped...
Two of the grip bushings are softer than whatever Springer used to glue them in. Nothing a vise grip couldn’t resolve. New bushings are ordered.

2160BE0C-BE39-418D-B5B1-72E3AFA3A2BA.jpeg

Next up, Brownells says I have to properly prepare the checkering file for actual use. They say I have to knock off the row of partial teeth along the outside edges with a belt sander before I can start actually checkering. What a PITA.

I think I’m going to take a stone to that row on the bottom left and just use that side of the file.

EB1F26A9-4C4D-404B-8847-760B026A4142_1_201_a.jpeg
 
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