GFCI tripping and cutting off furnace

I may be getting a reputation for asking the dumb question, but why is your HVAC producing condensate at this time of year? Seems unreasonable given your location.
Could be a high efficiency gas furnace. They produce condensate. Or he could have a humidifier. We had trouble with my parents one that we discovered a week ago during the fall service. The GFCI breaker on the pump tripped. We turned it on and it ran the pump but didn’t drain. The service tech thought it was a bad pump, but the line was clogged even though he put tabs in to prevent it in the spring. The condensate pump is for the water heater, humidifier, dehumidifier, and evaporator.
 
Could be a high efficiency gas furnace. They produce condensate. Or he could have a humidifier. We had trouble with my parents one that we discovered a week ago during the fall service. The GFCI breaker on the pump tripped. We turned it on and it ran the pump but didn’t drain. The service tech thought it was a bad pump, but the line was clogged even though he put tabs in to prevent it in the spring. The condensate pump is for the water heater, humidifier, dehumidifier, and evaporator.
This, it’s a condensing furnace probably with a secondary heat exchanger. Gets every last bit of heat out of the exhaust. I have a Heat pump at our house currently but installed a high efficiency gas furnace at the last place and it was similar.

I installed a condensing tankless water heater at our current house and it definitely has some condensate. First year after install the drain line froze and shut the hot water off. Ended up insulating the drain line and have been good since.
 
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Thanks guys!
 
yes why do you ask ?



A GFCI is not really there in case water gets into the receptacle. They are typically used in wet locations to prevent shock in case of a ground fault. Hence the name. Never tried one to see if it is true or not but it is suppose to trip faster than you will get shocked if a fault occurs.
 
that GFI is high enough up the wall if water ever gets that high you have much bigger problems … go to lowes or HD and get a plain receptacle and cove cost $1.50 plug a light source into the GFI and find the breaker . you will know you have the correct breaker when the light goes off. replace GFI with new receptacle and never have trouble again you are correct about the float once enough water gets in pump it breaks low voltage circuit to furnace

1. Do this ^^^^^^. GFCI breaker or receptacles are required in damp locations. I would take it out and put in a normal duplex receptacle. Moisture in a basement or crawl space, even in the damp air will activate the GFCI. If you don’t stand in water when you plug it in you will be ok and so will everything else. If only one Romex cable runs into the junction box then it’s not feeding other receptacles (which is ok).

2. And yes a gas furnace must have a drain line.

3. I’ll split the $250.00 service call with @jjwestbrook. PayPal friends please.


Note: I have spent the whole day helping one of our members on GFCI circuits because some inspection company has insisted for refinancing a complex, GCFIs are necessary. Problem is nothing has been wired correct and the ground faults are not working on half of them after installation due to issues on the load side of the ground fault receptacle.

I have 10 more circuits tomorrow to find the lead breaker and why the GFCIs will not reset. Lots of receptacles in multiple living areas and lights on the kitchen counter receptacles. It’s a long process.
 
A GFCI is not really there in case water gets into the receptacle. They are typically used in wet locations to prevent shock in case of a ground fault. Hence the name. Never tried one to see if it is true or not but it is suppose to trip faster than you will get shocked if a fault occurs.
I know but they are also not designed to be used for motors such as what is in that pump.
 
1. Do this ^^^^^^. GFCI breaker or receptacles are required in damp locations. I would take it out and put in a normal duplex receptacle. Moisture in a basement or crawl space, even in the damp air will activate the GFCI. If you don’t stand in water when you plug it in you will be ok and so will everything else. If only one Romex cable runs into the junction box then it’s not feeding other receptacles (which is ok).

2. And yes a gas furnace must have a drain line.

3. I’ll split the $250.00 service call with @jjwestbrook. PayPal friends please.


Note: I have spent the whole day helping one of our members on GFCI circuits because some inspection company has insisted for refinancing a complex, GCFIs are necessary. Problem is nothing has been wired correct and the ground faults are not working on half of them after installation due to issues on the load side of the ground fault receptacle.

I have 10 more circuits tomorrow to find the lead breaker and why the GFCIs will not reset. Lots of receptacles in multiple living areas and lights on the kitchen counter receptacles. It’s a long process.

if I’m planning on selling in the next 6-12 months, should I replace with another GFCI receptacle?
 
if I’m planning on selling in the next 6-12 months, should I replace with another GFCI receptacle?
It’s not the receptacle. It’s moisture. Put the same GFCI back in the day of any home inspection.
 
It’s not the receptacle. It’s moisture. Put the same GFCI back in the day of any home inspection.

huh. This makes sense. The unit is in a closet in a bathroom with showers and laundry.
 
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It’s not the receptacle. It’s moisture. Put the same GFCI back in the day of any home inspection.
Are GFCI breakers susceptible to moisture too?
 
Are GFCI breakers susceptible to moisture too?
A short is a short. Water causes a short. To test that theory to see if a GFCI or a breaker disrupts a circuit do this:

1. Run a tub of water.
2. Get neck deep in the tub naked.
3. Turn on a hair dryer.
4. Place hair dryer under the water close to scrotum.

Note: First take out $1,000,000 life insurance policy with Ken (me) as the beneficiary.
 
Swap the GFCI out with a WR rated one, it may be WR, look for WR on the face.

gfci.jpg
 
I had an outlet in the kitchen of the house we just moved out of (after 15 years) that supplied the refrigerator. It was fed from a GFCI outlet, which is a bad idea and is not even required by the NEC. When we bought a new refrigerator the GFCI would trip every time the refrigerator went into its defrost cycle. Luckily I noticed before losing any food. I tried a new GFCI outlet, same result. The refrigerator outlet was the last in a string of three, all fed through the same GFCI, so I had to modify the whole circuit using GFCI outlets where required, pigtailed so that the power to that final outlet didn't pass through any of the previous outlets. It was a PITA, but the refrigerator never shut off again. When we did the inspection before buying our current house, the refrigerator outlet was on my list of "make sure you check this" items.
 
I had an outlet in the kitchen of the house we just moved out of (after 15 years) that supplied the refrigerator. It was fed from a GFCI outlet, which is a bad idea and is not even required by the NEC. When we bought a new refrigerator the GFCI would trip every time the refrigerator went into its defrost cycle. Luckily I noticed before losing any food. I tried a new GFCI outlet, same result. The refrigerator outlet was the last in a string of three, all fed through the same GFCI, so I had to modify the whole circuit using GFCI outlets where required, pigtailed so that the power to that final outlet didn't pass through any of the previous outlets. It was a PITA, but the refrigerator never shut off again. When we did the inspection before buying our current house, the refrigerator outlet was on my list of "make sure you check this" items.


It has been a long time since I worked in electrical and codes do change but if memory serves me I think a refrigerator is suppose to be on a circuit all by itself. Don't quote me on that.
 
It has been a long time since I worked in electrical and codes do change but if memory serves me I think a refrigerator is suppose to be on a circuit all by itself. Don't quote me on that.
It should be on its own dedicated circuit now.

Long ago before GFCIs were required over the counter top at the sink it was part of many receptacles. At that time Americans had few countertop appliances such as toasters, coffee makers, espresso machines, blenders, microwaves, and can openers. You had an oven for all that and these things called hands and arms.

Arc fault, GFCI, and tamper proof receptacles have made for some difficult troubleshooting. I can see tamperproof as a requirement because parents now don’t watch their kids while the kids feed the holes with coins and objects.
 
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I may be getting a reputation for asking the dumb question, but why is your HVAC producing condensate at this time of year? Seems unreasonable given your location.
Also with all of the rain and moisture we've gotten lately.
 
The FURNACE is on its own circuit.

The CONDENSATE PUMP is in a GFCI circuit.

The entire HVAC unit was replaced 6-7 years ago.
Replace the GFCI. If you live by The Code, replace it with a GFCI. If not, an appropriate standard outlet will suffice.
 
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