Cannon safe keypad change to mechanical dial

After pestering @grungewehr39 with questions over several days, and finally getting all the parts in, I decided to tackle this today and got it changed. Took me a lot longer than 20 minutes, but it was my fault. Definitely not bad to do. Did have to pry the electronic key pay off though. After that I knew it was get it done or I'll have to pay a locksmith to come out. Got 'er done. At some point in time I may be listing the extra lock (I bought the same one Grungewehr39 did off Ebay. 2 lock kits). Only have one safe and won't need the other. Thanks again Grungewehr39!!
 
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easternnc4me said:
After pestering @grungewehr39 with questions over several days, and finally getting all the parts in, I decided to tackle this today and got it changed. Took me a lot longer than 20 minutes, but it was my fault. Definitely not bad to do. Did have to pry the electronic key pay off though. After that I knew it was get it done or I'll have to pay a locksmith to come out. Got 'er done. At some point in time I may be listing the extra lock (I bought the same one Grungewehr39 did off Ebay. 2 lock kits). Only have one safe and won't need the other. Thanks again Grungewehr39!!
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Anytime. And don't sell the other lock. Buy another safe!!!
 
Thanks also for the posting and pics.... and for making a stickie

query though... how does the inner door panel come off? I can't seem to find a way to move it around and slide it out
I think mine is sheetrock...
it is 'tall'-wide cannon from Tractor Supply One has doodads for hanging, other one is plain.
 
My inside door had a bunch of screws under the little buttons all the way around the door.
 
easternnc4me said:
At some point in time I may be listing the extra lock (I bought the same one Grungewehr39 did off Ebay. 2 lock kits). Only have one safe and won't need the other. Thanks again Grungewehr39!!
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I wonder if your extra lock will fit my Heritage safe...

I've read this thread, and will tackle mine soon.
 
Here is what I have now.

f96860d3abc120ca94f4f49ccb63f10b.jpg


Sent from my SM-G950U using Tapatalk
 
As long as the hole behind the keypad leads directly to the lock box (post #52) it should be a straight up replacement like mine was.
 
MacEntyre said:
I wonder if your extra lock will fit my Heritage safe...

I've read this thread, and will tackle mine soon.
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My apologies. I am just now seeing this. I believe it would have fit, but I gave my extra one to my nieces husband for his safe.
 
Well, my electronic lock is gone, and the new SG lock is installed and working just fine.

I screwed up the first lock box. I made the third number 99, which is a no-no for some of them. So, the door was open, but the lock could not be unlocked. Pete at the company traded me a new lock box. I installed the replacement, and he will use my first one for training.

I know a lot more about safe locks because of this thread!
 
WOW! Didn't even know this was possible. I have the exact same NL pad on mine. Long story short: House got flooded in Florence(2' inside home). Was able to open safe to get to my stuff while it was flooded. Left door open for months during cleanup and repairs of house. During the chaos I noticed the warranty sticker on door. Contacted them and turned in the required paperwork and they sent me a new safe. Have the old safe in my shop. It had quit working(lock). They sent me a new pad which fixed it. Two weeks later the new lock quit(Moisture I guess). Anyway its stuck locked now. If I could get it open I would do EXACTLY what this thread is about. Upside is. The only thing in the locked safe is my dehumidfier. Bad news is. Its locked :(

Its in really good shape though.
 
Get them to send you a new pad, which you probably can install without opening the safe, if you don't damage the ribbon cable. Then open it, and install a mechanical lock.
 
MacEntyre said:
Get them to send you a new pad, which you probably can install without opening the safe, if you don't damage the ribbon cable. Then open it, and install a mechanical lock.
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My only option right now. They sent the newest one free. But I don't mind buying one if it would work. Crazy thing is. The LAST one I got didn't go back to default. It kept my original code. Since I've installed the latest, I changed the code. Either one doesn't work now.
 
MacEntyre said:
I wonder if you could use the keypad I just removed...
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Mine is an NL so it might? I just took the new one off again and it has some corrosion. Must be moisture trapped inside the door that is evaporating out through the wire hole and into my keypad. Cleaned it up and gonna give it another try. If I can get it open then I WON'T close it until I change it out.
 
It's an official no go :( Keypad is functioning it seems. But it will not open. Even tried default codes. Short of a locksmith I'm thinking about getting medieval on it. Really didn't want to cut it though..
 
I'm embarrassed :oops: My brain hamster fell off the wheel........ I HAVE another pad. On my new safe, Duh. Put it on the old safe and BINGO! Safe is open. Now to order two new manual ones.

Edit to ad. Mine is totally different than what y'all have pictured. Inside is way simpler. Gonna have to do some research. Don't know if a manual will work..
 
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Oyster said:
I'm embarrassed :oops: My brain hamster fell off the wheel........ I HAVE another pad. On my new safe, Duh. Put it on the old safe and BINGO! Safe is open. Now to order two new manual ones.

Edit to ad. Mine is totally different than what y'all have pictured. Inside is way simpler. Gonna have to do some research. Don't know if a manual will work..
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The insides of some are sheetrock which will have wicked in a crapload of water when it got wet. You can wait till it dries or speed it up somehow, but short of gutting it and relining it the same thing is likley to happen unless you can get it in an oven or on a plane to the Caribbean to sit in the sun.
 
Alfred said:
The insides of some are sheetrock which will have wicked in a crapload of water when it got wet. You can wait till it dries or speed it up somehow, but short of gutting it and relining it the same thing is likley to happen unless you can get it in an oven or on a plane to the Caribbean to sit in the sun.
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You're exactly right. I've had a dehumidifier in it for literally months. Upon opening it today I removed the inner door panel. It looks terrible. Rust, etc. Just trying to salvage it enough for use here at my shop. Doesn't have to be pretty. So I might gut it.
 
Gotta figure out how to post pics. I don't think a manual will work on this one. Be nice to get opinion..
 
Like all the posts.

The ones about not opening are the reason I bought a Steelwater that has keys in case of pad failure. Remove pad and insert key properly, voila! Just gotta hide the keys. They give you one and you can buy more at safe purchase. Not after if I remember correctly. One is in a safe deposit box and the other is .....well...I hope I can remember if it's ever an issue. Otherwise a trip to the bank!
 
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Figured out pics I think ^^^^^^^^ As can be seen. My safe doesn't have the others features. Manual lock option? That line is the water mark from flood
 
safe.PNG

Update for those interested. After doing some research I'll have to do mine a little different. Won't be as pretty though.
 
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inside safe.PNG

Mine looks like this on the inside(pic from internet). Pretty basic without the other components. Its a vertical down mount. Has to be drilled and tapped for new mount. Kind of cheesy IMO, but what I have..
 
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Oyster said:
Mine completed. Sticker above dial covering the old hole. Meh...


View attachment 186494
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Looks fine! Does the missing arm hit the dial? Or just off for photo clarity?

If you want to plug the old hole, could you file the edges square enough to accept a carriage bolt? I've seen black-coated ones in Blowe's & Schlomo Depot that would look pretty good (better than zinc or galv).
 
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