Building an Integral Mark II Ruger silencer

wired

Well-Known Member
Vendor
Joined
Jul 9, 2019
Messages
1,897
Location
Irmo, SC
Rating - 100%
8   0   0
I guess I'll do a step by step integral silencer build. Ive got 3 in the works but this is the first of the batch. I wont have the gun for a few weeks and the baffles havent shipped yet either. Using a 2000 ish Vintage Ruger Stainless Mark II Competition .22 Lr. I will be cutting the barrel back to 3 inches and using a non rotating silencer tube with titanium baffles from quiet bore. The tube I am using is 304 SS 1" OD mill finish 0.065" wall cut to 7 3/4" length. I trued it up in a lathe and broached the tube for a 1/8" key . I will not be threading the back of the tube but will instead solder ( or weld ) in a plug that I will use to tighten the tube up to the receiver and tension the barrel. The baffle stack will go in after that.

Anyway first step. The tube is nominal .870" ID which is more like .872" so a 7/8" Dumont broach will fit after getting pressed in. Then the broach cutter pushes through and cuts a slot for a key. I will be using a woodruff key cut into the rear of the barrel. It wil;l become more evident what I am doing once the gun arrives. Heres a mockup of the broach cutter but it does go all the way to the tube.

RGjpca.jpg


And the completed 1/8" broad after knocking the plug out. It was tight.

KGG3ZA.jpg



I'll post more segments as parts come in.
 
Last edited:
First off, I wish I had the foggiest notion of what you're talking about! :confused:

I have neither the skills, the tools, nor the knowledge to do this (or even understand it).

As much as I'd love to silence my MkII.

Curious -- why are you cutting back the barrel -- to make it less unwieldy, or is there something more scientific?

I'm going to try to follow this project ... unless my brain-ache gets worse as it goes along. :D
 
Last edited:
Good thing about Mark II's is they grow on trees.

For an integral you want the barrel stub to be 2-3 inches max. Keeps most ammo subsonic and really the shorter the barrel the better the sound 800-900 FPS is ideal.

End result will something like this...

Kj2KpC.jpg
 
Well, that answered a question I didn't even know I had. :D

That integral configuration is going to be really attractive! I look forward to following this!
 
This is I'm starting with.

TRSfZa.jpg
Hey, I could use that upper, you want to trade for a stainless 6” bull barrel upper since you’ll just be cutting it down anyway?
 
I hear ya. I own maybe 10 mkII’s and while a few are more accurate than average the advantage of the model you have in general is that it's better balanced. Of course you won’t know how it shoots until you cut it down, but at that point there isn’t much going back. I have one I cut to 2” and it shoots surprisingly well.

good luck with your project.
 
An integrally suppressed .22 is on my to-do list. I was thinking of using a Browning Buckmark for a host though.

I'll watch this thread with interest.

Any accuracy issues with the short barrel?
 
I have several very short barrel pistols. Accuracy is in no way affected . I have one 2 inch barrel suppressed high standard I can knock the tips off matches at 10 yards.
 
Last edited:
Next short installment. I cut the tube for an internal snap ring today. That way I can secure the tube to the receiver with a threaded plug instead of welding the tube on to the adapter and it will index the same way every time. I would weld or solder on the insert but I dont want to discolor the tube.

Guns coming in this week and things will speed up after that.

Gzvqju.jpg
 
Last edited:
I have several very short barrel pistols. Accuracy is in no way affected . I have one 2 inch barrel suppressed high standard I can knock the tips off matches at 10 yards.
Yep, shorter barrels are not less accurate for the most part. Typically barrel length only has far less affect on accuracy than many think as long as the bullet stabilizes. Shorter barrels give a shorter sight radius which makes it harder on the shooter to be accurate not the firearm itself. You will lose velocity but to what degree varies within various lengths and how the ammunition is actually designed.

So with the shorter barrel and ammunition parameters are you thinking (900ish fps) what ammos do you think you’ll try? CCI MiniMags stay subsonic out of a barrels 5” (even a 6” barrel under certain weather) and under ... out of a 2” derringer they clock around 900 fps. Even CCI Stingers run under 1000 fps out of the 2” derringer.
 
Last edited:
Mini mags from a 2.4 inch barrel were around 880 fps iirc.

With a 6.5 in barrel they were around 1100 fps....

I will check my spreadsheet when i get back to computer.
 
Yep, shorter barrels are not less accurate for the most part. Typically barrel length only has far less affect on accuracy than many think as long as the bullet stabilizes. Shorter barrels give a shorter sight radius which makes it harder on the shooter to be accurate not the firearm itself. You will lose velocity but to what degree varies within various lengths and how the ammunition is actually designed.

So with the shorter barrel and ammunition parameters are you thinking (900ish fps) what ammos do you think you’ll try? CCI MiniMags stay subsonic out of a barrels 5” (even a 6” barrel under certain weather) and under ... out of a 2” derringer they clock around 900 fps. Even CCI Stingers run under 1000 fps out of the 2” derringer.


Thats the good thing about having the sight at the end of the suppressor. I will have to say that what I am building is not really an integral in the classic sense. The gun will be full operational without the silencer and can function as a standard screw on silencer host.

As far as what ammo? Pretty much anything that goes bang. As uou have pointed out length doesnt matter much. I'm just trying to keep whatever under 900 FPS which is pretty much all ammo. 22's can be finicky though in any length gun so I will find some I like. The point in this exercise is to show how easy it is to make a integral silenced .22. I've done a few "odd" things like the broach and a snap ring cut and the reason for those will be more evident next week but there things that any backyard machinist can do. Stuff like making the end cap and threading the tube I will farm out to a local machinist . I could do them myself but I dont have the equipment to do that any more. So for a couple of hundred bucks worth of parts ( or less ) and maybe a hundred bucks worth of labor costs you can have a nice integral that if you bought something similar would cost a grand to do on your gun . Or you could just get one of those nice TSS Tacsol uppers but they dont do them in stainless and for me the big thing is the wait. A year for a store bought? No thanks.
 
Last edited:
That broaching is cool. I've never done that.


CHRIS
Very simple machining operation using a Dumont broaching tool . Takes about 30 seconds with an arbor press. Normally they are used to make internal keyways for power transmission but they will work just the same to index the tube on a barrel. I was thinking of using a wood-ruff key but for this application but a hardened 1/8" dowel sunk in to the barrel with some red loctite and trimmed to size will work fine as there is zero side loading involved.
 
Another piece. This one is the key to holding the tube onto the barrel. Made this out of a chunk of 6061. . Threaded on one side 1/2-28 and broached for a 3/8 allen wrench. This is what will ride up against a washer that will in turn touch the internal snap ring to pull the tube onto the barrel and hold it snug. I'll be able to reach down inside with a 3/8 allen to loosen the nut up if I ever want to pull the tube off , which to be honest I dont know why I would . The snap ring is 7/8 up into the tube and this adapter is 7/8" long so with an 7 3/4" long tube I will have essentially a 6" long suppressor which is perfectly adequate with decent baffles and a long sight radius. Ive never noticed an appreciable difference in performance past 6" in suppressor length with K baffles. There are many ways to skin a cat but this is the way I chose. Gives me a couple of inches of barrel past the receiver so I should still be able to hit my 900-950 FPS target.

sAgvN2.jpg


fw678c.jpg
 
Last edited:
Got a pile of stuff in the mail today. The fact that they can get by selling these things...Thats fine by me. Little somewhat expensive bits of Titanium where aluminum would be just swell.

yDBsSU.jpg
 
How’s the progress on this project coming? Excited to see more steps
 
Thats the good thing about having the sight at the end of the suppressor. I will have to say that what I am building is not really an integral in the classic sense. The gun will be full operational without the silencer and can function as a standard screw on silencer host.

As far as what ammo? Pretty much anything that goes bang. As uou have pointed out length doesnt matter much. I'm just trying to keep whatever under 900 FPS which is pretty much all ammo. 22's can be finicky though in any length gun so I will find some I like. The point in this exercise is to show how easy it is to make a integral silenced .22. I've done a few "odd" things like the broach and a snap ring cut and the reason for those will be more evident next week but there things that any backyard machinist can do. Stuff like making the end cap and threading the tube I will farm out to a local machinist . I could do them myself but I dont have the equipment to do that any more. So for a couple of hundred bucks worth of parts ( or less ) and maybe a hundred bucks worth of labor costs you can have a nice integral that if you bought something similar would cost a grand to do on your gun . Or you could just get one of those nice TSS Tacsol uppers but they dont do them in stainless and for me the big thing is the wait. A year for a store bought? No thanks.

Just Fyi, my MKII w/3" bbl doesn't run well with bulk pack due to "dwell time".
Basically, it short strokes.
I only shoot bulk pack and CCI STD.
With a can, as expected, all is well.
 
Last edited:
Ive run quite a few Mark's over the years with short barrels. You do have to adjust the springs sometimes depending on what you like to use for ammo. In good times I use minimags which stay subsonic in short barrels and generally run in anything but my go to is CCI 45 grain quiet these days as it really is quiet and I have a shitload. Once I get thios one together I'll see how it works with the spring in there and adjust accordingly. I have 3 others in different stages of development I am working on as well. In any case none of these will be run without a silencer as they are all integral.
 
Last edited:
Got the tube and end cap back today from a forum member who is free to say hi here if he chooses. I got my lathe working somewhat and machined the barrel back to .900" at the shoulder with another .400" more for the threads. I cut the barrel to .496" there as that is max for 1/2-28 threading. I also drilled the barrel stub for a locating pin and ground it down to fit the broached channel. I cut the threads and put the above insert in to draw the barrel tight. Didnt need it. That is a TIGHT interference fit . It would take a slide hammer to get off and even then wouldnt be fun.

I still have to drill the "solvent traps" which is a pain because theres a bunch of them . theyre titanium and they are spotted for offset channels. I'll get those finished tomorrow. I also need to mount the front sight. To be honest I havent decided if I want to do that or not as I might just go for a red dot if I can find a filler for the rear sight. Getting it engraved asap.


NIbu5P.jpg


GVSZI5.jpg
 
Last edited:
They came from Quiet Bore. I will say it is tough to machine them. Not because they are Titanium. Just because they pre spot the diversion channels in the baffles and the bit or mill wants to wander.
 
Back
Top Bottom