Loading 7.62x54

303hunter

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I'm thinking of loading some light recoiling loads using 123 grain SST bullets. Hodgdon has a load using 125 grain Sierra bullets, but they're .308 diameter. With charges of 51-55 grains of Varget, it should be a screamer, but still take some recoil from my M44. Has anyone tried lighter bullet loads in 7.62x54?
 
I can't imagine many people reload for this round. Try the minimum load or research other powder options for lighter loads, its not like you need to cycle a semi auto action.
 
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I have fusion of L4/L5, and can't shoot high recoil loads anymore. Im trying to find a way to enjoy shooting some of my surplus rifles without hurting afterwards.
 
I have fusion of L4/L5, and can't shoot high recoil loads anymore. Im trying to find a way to enjoy shooting some of my surplus rifles without hurting afterwards.

Could you use something like a Lead Sled? I use one when I am testing loads, so my shoulder is not sore the next day.
 
The .311 bullets for x39 rounds are good options for jacketed bullets. But for 100 yards or less some cast bullets and powder puff loads with unique or something might be the ticket.
 
The .311 bullets for x39 rounds are good options for jacketed bullets. But for 100 yards or less some cast bullets and powder puff loads with unique or something might be the ticket.
The 123 gr Hornady SST is a x39 bullet, and I've also got a bunch of Nosler Varmageddon experimental 123's. Got a set of Lee 7.62x54 dies and x54 brass for a steal, and I've got to experiment!
 
Lyman cast bullet handbook has a few bunny fart loads with pistol powders under 180-200 gn cast. Lee Modern Reloading has some jacketed data at 123gn
 
Reloader762 has alot of experience loading 54R. I'll talk to him sometime over the weekend and give him a heads up about this thread. Maybe he'll have some more data.
 
I'm thinking of loading some light recoiling loads using 123 grain SST bullets. Hodgdon has a load using 125 grain Sierra bullets, but they're .308 diameter. With charges of 51-55 grains of Varget, it should be a screamer, but still take some recoil from my M44. Has anyone tried lighter bullet loads in 7.62x54?

Hodgdon uses a .308" dia. bullet because they don't know what country of origin your Mosin rifle you plan on loading for comes from. The Finnish Mosins as well as the American contract Mosin rifles can have groove diameters that are .310" or smaller so the .308" dia. bullet is a safe bet but depending on the dia. of your bore it may or may not be as accurate as one that best fits your bore. Have you slugged your bore and if so what is the groove to groove dia.?

Sierra makes several .311" dia. ProHunter bullet in various weights 125,150,180 as well as the 174 gr. MatchKing BTHP. Speer,Hornady,PPU,Barnes as well as a couple other all make bullets in the .311" 123 to 125 gr. range,take note that most if not all the 125 gr. or lesser weight jacketed bullets are designed as hunting bullets for the 7.62 x 39 an should only be use on light game and varmints if you plan to hunt with them otherwise use the 150 or heavier weight SP bullets for larger game.

As for the Sierra .311" 125 gr. ProHunter the Lyman #49 manual listed load data using Varget as 45.5 grs. starting load at 2677 FPS. and a Max. load of 50.5 grs. at 2994 fps. your results may vary,OAL is 2.800" with the 125 gr. bullet. I personally shot that bullet quiet a bit in the old days and I use the starting load of 46.0 grs. Reloader #15 and found it to be very accurate,I was bouncing an old softball around at the range at 100 yds. off hand using the factory sights with no problems with no real felt recoil using the light weight jacketed bullets,even the heavier 150 gr. .311" handloads are nowhere close to some of the LB and HB ammo as far a felt recoil goes. You can also take a look at The Load by Ed Harris which can be use with the .308 to .311" dia. bullet as well using 13.0 gr.s of Alliant Red Dot http://www.hensleygibbs.com/edharris/articles/The Load.htm

I can sympathize with you as I have a bony shoulder where the butt plate sits and the Bulgarian surplus HB ammo beat it up pretty well the LB ammo was OK. If you need a good recoil pad I would highly recommend the HIVIZ slip on pad it fits the Mosin rifles like a glove http://www.hivizsights.com/product/slip-on-recoil-pad/

Although I have several tins of good Russian an Yugo Surplus 54r ammo as well as several different jacketed bullets I can load for my Mosin rifles,I'm saving those for a rainy day as it can't be replaced for what I paid for the ammo and component bullets years ago. I've pretty much just shot cast lead in them for the past several years an had excellent results with 90,160,185 gr. as well as a new mold I had Tom over at Accurate cut for me to fit my deep throated 91/30 that drops a 215 gr. FN bullet. For the most part I use Bullseye for the 90 gr. sub loads and 2400 or H4895 reduced loads for the heavier bullets,acl864 can attest to how well those loads shoot.

With cast loads in the Mosin rifles which have a 1:10 twist bore same as the SKS using a cast lead bullet in the 160 to 200+ gr. range you Velocity/RPM/accuracy threshold is going to be in the 1800 to 1900+ fps. range. Cast bullets are not perfect even though they may appear so an are not constructed like jacketed bullet so they are more substitutable to the rotational forces imparted on the bullet that causes instability as it is launched into the leads as well as those imparted on it by the rifling. At some point along the load development way with cast loads as the velocity increases so do the RPM's imparted on the bullet by the rifling an the bullet begins to be distorted by those forces. With cast lead one can easily reach jacketed bullet velocity within reason simply by using a slower twist bore like the 1:14 to 1:16 twist cast bullet benchrest shoots use. But even with the limitations of the 1:10 twist bore on the Mosin rifles excellent target,plinking and hunting loads using the right bullet or cast lead bullets can be easily assemble.
 
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Hodgdon uses a .308" dia. bullet because they don't know what country of origin your Mosin rifle you plan on loading for comes from. The Finnish Mosins as well as the American contract Mosin rifles can have groove diameters that are .310" or smaller so the .308" dia. bullet is a safe bet but depending on the dia. of your bore it may or may not be as accurate as one that best fits your bore. Have you slugged your bore and if so what is the groove to groove dia.?

Sierra makes several .311" dia. ProHunter bullet in various weights 125,150,180 as well as the 174 gr. MatchKing BTHP. Speer,Hornady,PPU,Barnes as well as a couple other all make bullets in the .311" 123 to 125 gr. range,take note that most if not all the 125 gr. or lesser weight jacketed bullets are designed as hunting bullets for the 7.62 x 39 an should only be use on light game and varmints if you plan to hunt with them otherwise use the 150 or heavier weight SP bullets for larger game.

As for the Sierra .311" 125 gr. ProHunter the Lyman #49 manual listed load data using Varget as 45.5 grs. starting load at 2677 FPS. and a Max. load of 50.5 grs. at 2994 fps. your results may vary,OAL is 2.800" with the 125 gr. bullet. I personally shot that bullet quiet a bit in the old days and I use the starting load of 46.0 grs. Reloader #15 and found it to be very accurate,I was bouncing an old softball around at the range at 100 yds. off hand using the factory sights with no problems with no real felt recoil using the light weight jacketed bullets,even the heavier 150 gr. .311" handloads are nowhere close to some of the LB and HB ammo as far a felt recoil goes. You can also take a look at The Load by Ed Harris which can be use with the .308 to .311" dia. bullet as well using 13.0 gr.s of Alliant Red Dot http://www.hensleygibbs.com/edharris/articles/The Load.htm

I can sympathize with you as I have a bony shoulder where the butt plate sits and the Bulgarian surplus HB ammo beat it up pretty well the LB ammo was OK. If you need a good recoil pad I would highly recommend the HIVIZ slip on pad it fits the Mosin rifles like a glove http://www.hivizsights.com/product/slip-on-recoil-pad/

Although I have several tins of good Russian an Yugo Surplus 54r ammo as well as several different jacketed bullets I can load for my Mosin rifles,I'm saving those for a rainy day as it can't be replaced for what I paid for the ammo and component bullets years ago. I've pretty much just shot cast lead in them for the past several years an had excellent results with 90,160,185 gr. as well as a new mold I had Tom over at Accurate cut for me to fit my deep throated 91/30 that drops a 215 gr. FN bullet. For the most part I use Bullseye for the 90 gr. sub loads and 2400 or H4895 reduced loads for the heavier bullets,acl864 can attest to how well those loads shoot.

With cast loads in the Mosin rifles which have a 1:10 twist bore same as the SKS using a cast lead bullet in the 160 to 200+ gr. range you Velocity/RPM/accuracy threshold is going to be in the 1800 to 1900+ fps. range. Cast bullets are not perfect even though they may appear so an are not constructed like jacketed bullet so they are more substitutable to the rotational forces imparted on the bullet that causes instability as it is launched into the leads as well as those imparted on it by the rifling. At some point along the load development way with cast loads as the velocity increases so do the RPM's imparted on the bullet by the rifling an the bullet begins to be distorted by those forces. With cast lead one can easily reach jacketed bullet velocity within reason simply by using a slower twist bore like the 1:14 to 1:16 twist cast bullet benchrest shoots use. But even with the limitations of the 1:10 twist bore on the Mosin rifles excellent target,plinking and hunting loads using the right bullet or cast lead bullets can be easily assemble.

Rifle is an Izhevsk M44 dated 1945, and was given to me by a friend. He bought it about 20 years ago, and said it was unfired when he got it, so it hasn't been counter bored. I haven't slugged the bore, but it's pretty accurate with PPU brass case ammo.

The trigger pretty much sucks, is there anything that can improve it without replacing the whole trigger? I know these rifles are gaining in value, and I don't want to do anything to lessen that.
 
Yes the M44 trigger is ded nutz simple and you can smooth it up very easily with some 600 grit sand paper.
 
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Rifle is an Izhevsk M44 dated 1945, and was given to me by a friend. He bought it about 20 years ago, and said it was unfired when he got it, so it hasn't been counter bored. I haven't slugged the bore, but it's pretty accurate with PPU brass case ammo.

The trigger pretty much sucks, is there anything that can improve it without replacing the whole trigger? I know these rifles are gaining in value, and I don't want to do anything to lessen that.

About the only thing I hated about my Mosin triggers was the slack in the trigger pull,I put one of these kits in both rifle and it made a world of difference.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Mosin-Nagant-Trigger-Spring-Kit-shorter-lighter-trigger-pull-/321082471597

Also on both my rifles I cork bedded the action by cutting a cork patch that fit under the receiver where it mates to the stock I also put a small 1" square cork patch that rest up front under the barrel when the steel end cap is at the end of the stock. You can also bed the action using JB Weld but I prefer the cork. I put some blue thread locker on the bolts and tighten them down and let them set a couple days before shooting.

https://www.theboxotruth.com/educational-zone-75-bedding-a-rifle-stock/

https://www.theboxotruth.com/educational-zone-63-corking-a-mosin-rifle-to-improve-accuracy/

Here is my 1933 HEX receiver 91/30 after I refinished it and did my accuracy improvements. I also added a MOJO rear peep sight which is not pictured on the rifle.
f4g1AvT.jpg



My M44 is a Izhevsk made in 1945 I put a S & K scout mount and a 3 x 7 x 32 long eye relief scope on it as well as the above spring and cork bedding.
gCEwtUY.jpg


Some generic cast loads I shoot in my Mosin velocity runs around 1700 fps. using 16.0 grs. of Alliant 2400.
EYq1o8r.jpg
 
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I got a new Polish M44 dated 1953 in Munich Germany back in 88'. Only ammo was Sako or Norma (still expensive in Germany then) so got a set of Lee dies. I haven't reloaded for it since the early 90s as then ammo became available in the US.

CD
 
About the only thing I hated about my Mosin triggers was the slack in the trigger pull,I put one of these kits in both rifle and it made a world of difference.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Mosin-Nagant-Trigger-Spring-Kit-shorter-lighter-trigger-pull-/321082471597

Also on both my rifles I cork bedded the action by cutting a cork patch that fit under the receiver where it mates to the stock I also put a small 1" square cork patch that rest up front under the barrel when the steel end cap is at the end of the stock. You can also bed the action using JB Weld but I prefer the cork. I put some blue thread locker on the bolts and tighten them down and let them set a couple days before shooting.

https://www.theboxotruth.com/educational-zone-75-bedding-a-rifle-stock/

https://www.theboxotruth.com/educational-zone-63-corking-a-mosin-rifle-to-improve-accuracy/

Here is my 1933 HEX receiver 91/30 after I refinished it and did my accuracy improvements. I also added a MOJO rear peep sight which is not pictured on the rifle.
f4g1AvT.jpg



My M44 is a Izhevsk made in 1945 I put a S & K scout mount and a 3 x 7 x 32 long eye relief scope on it as well as the above spring and cork bedding.
gCEwtUY.jpg


Some generic cast loads I shoot in my Mosin velocity runs around 1700 fps. using 16.0 grs. of Alliant 2400.
EYq1o8r.jpg

Did the eBay kit lighten the trigger pull? Mine stacks like a single shot 22, or a striker fired pisto, and it's hard to predict when it breaks.
 
I'd like to know more about how you do this.
There are several well done trigger job videos on Youtube. The sear and trigger on my gun were sloppily made and had machine marks visible still which made the trigger feel gritty and grabby. I kept it simple and polished the surfaces where the trigger and sear meet. I did not mess witth the sear/striker engagement surfaces but that doesn't look very complex either in this video:

 
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There are several well done trigger job videos on Youtube. The sear and trigger on my gun were sloppily made and had machine marks visible still which made the trigger feel gritty and grabby. I kept it simple and polished the surfaces where the trigger and sear meet. I did not mess witth the sear/striker engagement surfaces but that doesn't look very complex either in this video:


Good video, thanks! Looks very doable.
 
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