cz75sa

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Jrpsaros

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I just picked up a 75sa and am trying to decide how to mod it. I have a p10 as my defense gun, this will be for competitions. I'm thinking the rhk, straight trigger, then either the srs or removing the fpb all from cgw...can anyone weigh in and tell me what the best option is for a safe, but amazing trigger?
 
CZC extended safety is high on my list.
Let's me get higher on the gun and ride the safety like a 1911.

Cajun GW adjustable sear.

I added a magwell and adjustable sights to my SA Shadow.

My opinion, just buy a factory SA shadow.
It will be less expensive than what your considering. I've seen Shadow SA, NIB, for $800 since the S2 was released.
You can get near $500 for your 75 SA and the upgrades your looking at will easily top $300.

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Jrpsaros said:
I just picked up a 75sa and am trying to decide how to mod it. I have a p10 as my defense gun, this will be for competitions. I'm thinking the rhk, straight trigger, then either the srs or removing the fpb all from cgw...can anyone weigh in and tell me what the best option is for a safe, but amazing trigger?
Click to expand...
WOW...rhk...srs...fpb...cgw....Chec speak. I'm still larnin!
 
Imo, the best SA trigger will be achieved by:

Remove firing pin block
Add CGW or CZC hammer and CGW adjustable sear
I would also add an aluminum trigger with pre travel adj and a CGW Trigger pin.


If you choose to retain the FPB, then add STS.
I believe it must be retained for some competitions. While shadow doesn’t have one.
 
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I took a DA/SA 75b and added a RHK (race hammer kit), adjustable sear, and flat trigger. Holy smokes it makes for a light smooth trigger. I ended up adding an over powered hammer spring to bring the trigger pull up a little. Still working out the kinks in it, so can't fully comment on it yet. And with the above I can't even imagine you could have a shorter reset, flinch and it's reset. I doubled a few shots the first time I shot it.
 
Slacker said:
CZC extended safety is high on my list.
Let's me get higher on the gun and ride the safety like a 1911.

Cajun GW adjustable sear.

I added a magwell and adjustable sights to my SA Shadow.

My opinion, just buy a factory SA shadow.
It will be less expensive than what your considering. I've seen Shadow SA, NIB, for $800 since the S2 was released.
You can get near $500 for your 75 SA and the upgrades your looking at will easily top $300.

View attachment 47054
Click to expand...
The thought has crossed my mind...as is I might like the p10 better...so part of me wants to sell it and build up a p10...I like modding things so the shadow doesn't interest me that much to be honest
 
chiefjason said:
I took a DA/SA 75b and added a RHK (race hammer kit), adjustable sear, and flat trigger. Holy smokes it makes for a light smooth trigger. I ended up adding an over powered hammer spring to bring the trigger pull up a little. Still working out the kinks in it, so can't fully comment on it yet. And with the above I can't even imagine you could have a shorter reset, flinch and it's reset. I doubled a few shots the first time I shot it.
Click to expand...
That's the kind of info I was looking for. That has me leaning to keeping the fpb and then later if I decide I need m lre I can always remove it then. Thank you
 
Well just ordered Cajun gun works race hammer kit, straight trigger, rp trigger return spring, and some other little things...should be interesting to see what it ends up at, right now it's right around 5 pounds
 
So installed everything but the sights tonight, and am sitting her maniacally laughing to myself....with the pre travel and overtravel screws adjusted as aggressively as I can with the above parts, this trigger barely moves, and is a consistent 2.5 pounds with my trigger gauge....0 creep just click...completely different gun now
 
Jrpsaros said:
So installed everything but the sights tonight, and am sitting her maniacally laughing to myself....with the pre travel and overtravel screws adjusted as aggressively as I can with the above parts, this trigger barely moves, and is a consistent 2.5 pounds with my trigger gauge....0 creep just click...completely different gun now
Click to expand...

Keep an eye on the pre and over screws. They can move around a little.
Make sure there is room for the hammer to cleanly move if you hold back the trigger and that it is not touching or dragging on the sear.

Enjoy! SA CZ’s are super fun.
 
NKD said:
Keep an eye on the pre and over screws. They can move around a little.
Make sure there is room for the hammer to cleanly move if you hold back the trigger and that it is not touching or dragging on the sear.

Enjoy! SA CZ’s are super fun.
Click to expand...

I'll have to check, but if it is, what happens?
 
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If I keep the trigger pulled I can pull the hammer back with no contact, but if I try to release it again with trigger still back it will drag some, but I would assume that's normal
 
It shouldnt drag at all in its travel with trigger pinned back.
Adjust pre/over travel screws until it doesn’t.
 
NKD said:
Keep an eye on the pre and over screws. They can move around a little.
Make sure there is room for the hammer to cleanly move if you hold back the trigger and that it is not touching or dragging on the sear.

Enjoy! SA CZ’s are super fun.
Click to expand...

Another thing to keep in mind as you toy with the travel screws. I adjusted all the pre travel out of my trigger and it defeated the firing pin block. The lever would not raise when pulling the trigger to lift it. Induced some of the pre travel back in, just enough to lift the firing pin block. The gun is no good when it won't fire, ask me how I know. lol And I want to leave the block in since it's a carry gun. I think you can remove or replace it for race guns, don't hold me to that though.
 
chiefjason said:
Another thing to keep in mind as you toy with the travel screws. I adjusted all the pre travel out of my trigger and it defeated the firing pin block. The lever would not raise when pulling the trigger to lift it. Induced some of the pre travel back in, just enough to lift the firing pin block. The gun is no good when it won't fire, ask me how I know. lol And I want to leave the block in since it's a carry gun. I think you can remove or replace it for race guns, don't hold me to that though.
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You can remove it, and many do.
This is what differentiates the CZ Shadows: they have no firing pin blocks.
 
NKD said:
You can remove it, and many do.
This is what differentiates the CZ Shadows: they have no firing pin blocks.
Click to expand...

OK, is it just a straight up remove and forget? If so, I might do that. Because the pre travel really messes with the bar that raises the firing pin block. That has been driving me nuts for over a week until I noticed it tonight as I tried to take out the firing pin.
 
chiefjason said:
OK, is it just a straight up remove and forget? If so, I might do that. Because the pre travel really messes with the bar that raises the firing pin block. That has been driving me nuts for over a week until I noticed it tonight as I tried to take out the firing pin.
Click to expand...

Yes it is. I removed that as well as the lifter and spring on the sear. I then filled that space with a spacer that can be had from CGW for cheap. I also remove the disco from hammer.
This makes for a sublime trigger though. Very nice!
But I only used the gun for range/comp work out of a bladetech holster.

I would not have done that for a carry gun. All my CZs have been like that. SA only with no FPB. For a carry gun I would use a decocker most likely and live with the trigger and longer reset and fpb.

I love CZs but I carry Glocks. It is these changes to my CZ triggers that drove me to Glocks. The CZs are range/competition/fun guns. They are what I spend the most time shooting. The Glocks are carry tools that I feel comfortable carrying appendix aiming at my balls.
 
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