S&W 686 trigger pull

Disgruntled Seabee

Disgruntled Seabee

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HEY! S&W Guru's! Just wondering what the DA/SA weights are for the 686+, got a brand new one today.
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You have chosen wisely. I enjoy my 686+ 4", I got it after my folks passed away, pleasure to shoot it, paid $20 extra for the trigger job at the factory.
I've never measured the trigger pull.

 
Recent production L frames and N frames seem to be around 4lbs in single action and 10+ in Double action. I'm sure it can vary some but that seems to be fairly consistent with the newer L/N frames I have handled over the last 10 years or so.
 
I loosened the screw on the hammer return spring (I think that's what it is, see pic) and it SIGNIFICANTLY lowered the trigger pull, I read that you can tighten and loosen it to adjust the trigger pull. I didn't loosen it too much as to have the hammer not hit the firing pin hard enough, it should still be fine, but there's a huge difference just by loosening it a whole turn or turn and a half. @Jeppo
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@BU2scwMJL
Yeah, Iā€™ve become an expert in playing with that spring tension. The used 66-1 (K frame) Iā€™m shooting had a ā€œniceishā€ trigger that I was happy with until the day I started running a different type of ammo. The primers musta been much harder because I experienced plenty of strikes not hard enough to fire the primers. I tightened up the spring and got the expected results, much harder trigger pull but 100% fired primers.

Strangely enough, my new Wilson Combat springs allowed me to tighten the screw down all the way while still having a lighter pull and 100% ignition. I think youā€™re gonna like the result when you put in your new springs. I ended up around 9.5 pounds DA and a SA that I still canā€™t believe, weā€™ll under 2. :D
 
damn 2# SA, crazy! breathe on it and it'll fire lol! i assume you put the 12# spring in it
 
I need to find my trigger gauge. My 1981 vintage 686 feels like it has a SA pull in the 2-2.5 lb range... just how I like it. Its crisp with no overtravel. I suspect the original owner had someone work on it.
 
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RedneckFur said:
I need to find my trigger gauge. My 1981 vintage 686 feels like it has a SA pull in the 2-2.5 lb range... just how I like it. Its crisp with no overtravel. I suspect the original owner had someone work on it.
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as soon as it gets delivered the springs are getting changed.
 
I donā€™t have a 686, but my experience has been much the same as Jeppo with strain screw tinkering. I tried different length set screws that would allow me to run it all the way in without it protruding as well as backing out the stock strain screw. I use Federal primers, but finding a sweet spot for reliability was elusive. Whatā€™s more, Iā€™d often find that, as I ran a few hundred rounds through the gun, the strain screw would back out to the point of light strikes again. I settled on the Wilson spring kits and now have them in my 66, 617, and 10. Iā€™m. Dry happy with the results. Strangely, Iā€™ve actually gone back to the stock trigger return spring (the Wilson kit provides three different reduced weight springs in the kit) in my 66 because I kept short stroking the trigger when I sped up. With the reduced main spring I get a much lighter pull and 100% reliability. I think itā€™s $20 well spent.
 
Iā€™ve been told more than 1/2 turn loose is no bueno.
 
@BU2scwMJL
I remembered a photo I took that might interest you.

After changing out the springs, I joined @Zbizzle911, @BigWaylon and Little Waylon at PHA. This was the maiden voyage of the 66-1 with the Wilson Combat kit. As I was replacing the brass in the box, I noticed the difference between what Iā€™d shot that morning and those shot during my previous session. Thatā€™s the difference between the new ā€œlightā€ WC spring and the old spring that I can only assume was stock (Iā€™m at least the 3rd owner of the revolver). :)

8039BBFD-E6F0-4F7B-BE24-D35CC5F279CA.jpeg
 
Do the Wilson springs have same shape(bend) as the orginal? My guess is no.

Tom
 
In my case, the shape was quite a bit different. But, I donā€™t know whether some of that had to do with the old one having taken a set.
 
Lighten triggers are fun at the range but I would go back to factory settings if the revolver is to used for defensive purposes.
 
I have always had very good results with Wolff springs. Their mainspring lightens the pull but the hammer still hits hard. I wouldn't worry about the SA pull too much, that gun needs to be shot DA.
 
Most revolver smith use factory Smith & Wesson main springs and just (recurve) bend them. Then use a rebound spring cut or not to match what you like to control trigger return. Most short stroking of the trigger on a revolver comes from to light of return spring.
The Late Vic Pickett worked on revolvers at Wilson for many years and had some of the most reliable and lightest double action triggers .
 
Jeppo said:
Iā€™ve been told more than 1/2 turn loose is no bueno.
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This can vary greatly. The old Performance Center revolvers came right on the edge. They came with the screw all the way in and even a 1/4 turn was a no go. These slave screws are not to be monkeyed with on carry guns.
 
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