Jeep code help.

Stick Man

Armed Infidel
2A Bourbon Hound 2024
2A Bourbon Hound OG
Benefactor
Vendor
Life Member
Supporting Member
Joined
Dec 18, 2016
Messages
3,073
Location
Harrisburg/Charlotte
Rating - 100%
36   0   0
Sister has a 2004 Jeep Liberty 3.7. Keeps showing dtc's of 0340/0344, which is camshaft positioning sensor. Both the crankshaft and camshaft positioning sensors have been replaced. The crankshaft sensor was replaced with a factory oem part, camshaft was not (she bought from AZ). While I'm over today helping with our Mom, she ask me to drive it. It spins over quiet a few times before firing, but not every time. It will not rev pass 2500 at all though. It sounds like the rev limiter is kicking in. It will do this in gear, or in Park, every single time. Maybe a crappy AZ camshaft sensor? I haven't had time to try and diagnose it, as we have had our hands full with my Mom being in her last day's. Anybody got anything or maybe experienced this before? Thanks fella's.
 
Lol. I told her her first problem was buying that pos in the first place. And the thing is, she called me asking advice on it before she bought it. I said run away, fast, and then she buy's it.
 
Sister has a 2004 Jeep Liberty 3.7. Keeps showing dtc's of 0340/0344, which is camshaft positioning sensor. Both the crankshaft and camshaft positioning sensors have been replaced. The crankshaft sensor was replaced with a factory oem part, camshaft was not (she bought from AZ). While I'm over today helping with our Mom, she ask me to drive it. It spins over quiet a few times before firing, but not every time. It will not rev pass 2500 at all though. It sounds like the rev limiter is kicking in. It will do this in gear, or in Park, every single time. Maybe a crappy AZ camshaft sensor? I haven't had time to try and diagnose it, as we have had our hands full with my Mom being in her last day's. Anybody got anything or maybe experienced this before? Thanks fella's.

Did you check the wiring for abrasion/wear/damage? Do you have a multimeter to check the sensors? That would tell you if they were bad, so you could exclude that.
 
The long crank time is because the sensors are redundant. If one fails the other covers for it but it causes a long crank time. Sensor could be bad. New stuff has been known to fail but wiring also could be the problem. Unplug one sensor an try to crank. If it takes a while but cranks the unplugged sensor is likely the problem. If you unplug and it won't start the unplugged sensor is good and the one still plugged up is bad or wiring is bad.
 
Last edited:
Have you disconnected the battery or rest the codes so the ECM will reprogram itself?
Be sure the crankshaft sensor is locked into the mating connector, our '99 Sable had hard time starting,
I found the sensor connector not fully engaged.
 
Did you say ...Jeep

giphy.gif
 
Is it parked outside and if so, does she have squirrels? Some vehicles have wiring that attracts rodents. They'll chew the wiring.

My wife's 2013 Explorer has been hit twice. First time they chewed through the wiring for the variable cam timing solenoid.. The second time they got one of her headlight's wiring.

We make sure it gets parked in the garage now.
 
Last edited:
you warned her. send her to the dealer and wash your hands of it. explain to her if she wants you to be her mechanic then she must follow your car buying advice. bad decisions are expensive for a reason. she made a bad decision and it is not up to you to soften the expense. you have done more than you were required to do already. I know I sound mean, but you warned her not to buy that turd.
 
Last edited:
Thanks guys. I didn't really check the wiring, just drove it and scanned it myself. She did disconnect the battery upon installation, and tried again afterwards. I will pass all this on to her. I'm not getting too far in on this. Like said above, I warned her, but I'm trying to be nice about this, and help a little if I can.

Sent from my LM-Q710.FG using Tapatalk
 
Certain codes are self healing. In other words a code appears when conditions for it exist and go away when they no longer exist. Other codes require a reset. In other words fixing the problem will not fix the problem until the code is reset.
 
How many miles? Timing chains will stretch and throw the crank/cam timing off causing the codes.....also check the fuel pressure that will cause extended crank time.
 
I work in a Dodge/ Jeep dealership service dept and while not a tech, I see this all the time. I don't know the fix, but I see customers coming back all the time with the same problem. As I greet them, they start cussing me out. What a great way to start the day out. Just tonight on the way home from work on a highway, I see a long skid mark from the fast lane to the shoulder. There is a Liberty with its left front tire tucked under the vehicle, looks like the lower ball joint let loose. Im sorry for your troubles..
 
An oscilloscope is the proper way to check a cam and/or crank sensor. A multimeter will only tell you part of the story. If it is a cam/crank correlation code, possible the timing chain is stretched. Also as mentioned before check fuel pressure. That can cause the extended crank time. Also a fuel volume test should be performed in addition to a pressure test. The pressure may be fine but the volume may be lackin. Ran across this several times, mainly on GM's though. Also try an OEM CMP sensor.
 
Last edited:
Thanks for all that responded. A couple things.
My mom has made a resurgence somehow, and is now walking around (albeit very slow), and is feeding herself. Go mom.
2nd- My sister went to go to the store Friday, and turned the key, and BANG, backfired and blew a two fist sized hole in the back of the intake. So now they're without a car, and she's taking care of my mom and grandpa. So I guess I'll be trying to find something cheap to get them by. Good news on one side, bad on the other.

Sent from my LM-Q710.FG using Tapatalk
 
Thanks for all that responded. A couple things.
My mom has made a resurgence somehow, and is now walking around (albeit very slow), and is feeding herself. Go mom.
2nd- My sister went to go to the store Friday, and turned the key, and BANG, backfired and blew a two fist sized hole in the back of the intake. So now they're without a car, and she's taking care of my mom and grandpa. So I guess I'll be trying to find something cheap to get them by. Good news on one side, bad on the other.

Sent from my LM-Q710.FG using Tapatalk
Glad mom is doing better.
 
When was the last time the ignition coils were changed? I have a 2006. The timing would be whacked out if one or more of your coils were failing. On a car with a rotor, your timing would be backward to blow out the intake...er ask me how I know.
I have no idea when the last time the coils were changed. You'd have to ask the OP...
 
Thanks for all that responded. A couple things.
My mom has made a resurgence somehow, and is now walking around (albeit very slow), and is feeding herself. Go mom.
2nd- My sister went to go to the store Friday, and turned the key, and BANG, backfired and blew a two fist sized hole in the back of the intake. So now they're without a car, and she's taking care of my mom and grandpa. So I guess I'll be trying to find something cheap to get them by. Good news on one side, bad on the other.

Sent from my LM-Q710.FG using Tapatalk

See two up
 
I have no idea when coils have been changed. Now that the intake self ventilated, it's all moot. Just gonna part it and try and find her something else.

Sent from my LM-Q710.FG using Tapatalk
 
My sister went to go to the store Friday, and turned the key, and BANG, backfired and blew a two fist sized hole in the back of the intake. So now they're without a car, and she's taking care of my mom and grandpa. So I guess I'll be trying to find something cheap to get them by. Good news on one side, bad on the other.

Yup, problem solved. Sorry...
 
Back
Top Bottom