Running without a flash hider?

Jayne

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I picked up one of the CMMG .22 conversion kits and pulled the flash hider off my AR to run the .22 with the rimfire can. Tons of fun.

I stuck the flash hider back on when going back to 223/556, but didn't torque it down or index it because I knew it would be coming off again. At 100+ yards the zero was really screwy, and in fact followed the 'wrong' way the hider was indexed. I didn't think it would make that much of a difference, but it apparently does.

So, just leaving the flash hider off all the time and running a thread protector.... what am I really going to give up in that config?
 
I don’t think it’s a big deal to run without a flash hider on the 22lr. But I would put a thread protector on it. Or you can get another a2 birdcage for less than $10 and be done with it.


Nevermind, just reread your post and realized you only have 1 upper.
 
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I don’t think it’s a big deal to run without a flash hider on the 22lr. But I would put a thread protector on it. Or you can get another a2 birdcage for less than $10 and be done with it.

With the .22 kit in the can will be on it so it's only when shooting 556 that the thread protector would be on.

An A2 looks like it needs to be indexed as well. Maybe I need some sort of 'solid' hider that it's really hiding the flash but just protects the threads and crown.
 
Parts are so cheap right now you need to build a dedicated upper for it. Then just switch it out in seconds. CHEAP. No tube or gb needed.
Just barrel, handguard, upper receiver. Could be done for 150-200$.

You know this is the answer. Now get ‘er done.
 
Parts are so cheap right now you need to build a dedicated upper for it. Then just switch it out in seconds. CHEAP. No tube or gb needed.
Just barrel, handguard, upper receiver. Could be done for 150-200$.

You know this is the answer. Now get ‘er done.
Yeah, I thought he had two uppers and was moving the flash hider around at first.
 
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Yeah, I thought he had two uppers and was moving the flash hider around at first.

Jayne would do that to save money!
Flash hider cost=new box of steel case for Grock.
 
A1 three prong is $10 at primary arms. Or spend more for any of the dozens of symmetrical designs.
 
Parts are so cheap right now you need to build a dedicated upper for it. Then just switch it out in seconds. CHEAP. No tube or gb needed.
Just barrel, handguard, upper receiver. Could be done for 150-200$.

You know this is the answer. Now get ‘er done.

I explicitly do not want a dedicated upper for it. The whole point is to reuse my existing optic, lower, light, yada yada and run the .22 as a trainer from time to time. Replicating the whole upper would run close to $1k to get it the same.

Otherwise the dedicated upper + conversion would run more than a M&P 15-22, so if you're going to have to buy new optics and stuff you might as well get an accurate .22 vs the conversion.
 
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I explicitly do not want a dedicated upper for it. The whole point is to reuse my existing optic, lower, light, yada yada and run the .22 as a trainer from time to time. Replicating the whole upper would run close to $1k to get it the same.

Otherwise the dedicated upper + conversion would run more than a M&P 15-22, so if you're going to have to buy new optics and stuff you might as well get an accurate .22 vs the conversion.

Ahh, very good point. Forgot about optics.
 
Come on guys... He's trying to save money for new tile in his shower. He ain't got dedicated upper money right now!


If you don't run the upper suppressed, don't run the 22s suppressed. Problem solved. More accurate training that way...

Kidding. Easy solution is a flash can. Protect the barrel, no clocking so zero stays, hides flash, cheap...
 
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The obvious solution is a rifle can, then just shoot the 22lr through it.
 
The obvious solution is a rifle can, then just shoot the 22lr through it.
Which is an obviously poor solution...unless you buy one of the few serviceable rifle cans on the market. :p
 
User serviceable is the future!
 
Come on guys... He's trying to save money for new tile in his shower. He ain't got dedicated upper money right now!

That's just cruel.

Easy solution is a flash can. Protect the barrel, no clocking so zero stays, hides flash, cheap...

Yep, I think that's the way I'll go. that ebay one looked good enough, should protect the threads and push the gas away from the light, etc without having to worry about zero wandering due to improper clocking.
 
That's just cruel.



Yep, I think that's the way I'll go. that ebay one looked good enough, should protect the threads and push the gas away from the light, etc without having to worry about zero wandering due to improper clocking.

Sorry, couldn't resist... :p
 
Ordered on of these for my 10.5 pistol. Noob question; both of my ARs were built using assembled uppers and I've never changed the muzzle device on either. What's the advantage/disadvantage of not using the crush washer? Thanks.
More likely to not back off (loosen up) with the crush washer installed.
 
More likely to not back off (loosen up) with the crush washer installed.

That's what I assumed but was wondering why you said to not use the washer. And time it? Guessing this means how tight the device is installed? Like I said first time messing with the muzzle.
 
That's what I assumed but was wondering why you said to not use the washer. And time it? Guessing this means how tight the device is installed? Like I said first time messing with the muzzle.
You don’t have to time it because it doesn’t have holes on the outside. Everything goes forward. Timing is simply orienting the ports (usually on a brake) so that they aim out to the sides. This can be done with shims or a crush washer. There are some flash hiders that have a solid section that should be in the 6 o’clock position as well...thus the use of “timed”. Nothing really to do with the tightness.

OP wanted to swap back and forth between a muzzle device and a silencer, so no sense in using a crush washer. They’re only supposed to be “crushed” once (or maybe a few times). And you definitely don’t want one anywhere around when a silencer is involved.
 
You don’t have to time it because it doesn’t have holes on the outside. Everything goes forward. Timing is simply orienting the ports (usually on a brake) so that they aim out to the sides. This can be done with shims or a crush washer. There are some flash hiders that have a solid section that should be in the 6 o’clock position as well...thus the use of “timed”. Nothing really to do with the tightness.

OP wanted to swap back and forth between a muzzle device and a silencer, so no sense in using a crush washer. They’re only supposed to be “crushed” once (or maybe a few times). And you definitely don’t want one anywhere around when a silencer is involved.

That make sense. Thanks for the advice. Ebay says it was delivered today so I'm going to try to get it installed tonight. Hopefully it will tame it a bit. Not expecting it to be silent but hoping it will move some of the sound forward.
 
That make sense. Thanks for the advice. Ebay says it was delivered today so I'm going to try to get it installed tonight. Hopefully it will tame it a bit. Not expecting it to be silent but hoping it will move some of the sound forward.
If you bought the same one I linked, be prepared for it to be smaller than you pictured it...even though the measurements were clearly listed. :D

I really wanted to compare mine to a flash can, but the one flash can I had was 1/2-36 instead of 1/2-28 (it came off a 9mm PSA upper).
 
@JohnnyTyler

Whatcha think about that linear comp?

Got installed last night. I actually like the look of it. It is small but I wasn't wanting a can so I'm happy with it. Haven't had a chance to try it out yet. Hoping to get out this weekend if I can.

ETA: If anyone else is thinking of getting one they ship super fast. I ordered it Monday afternoon and had it Wednesday night.
 
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