How far can I push Alox lubed SWCs in a 357 Magnum?

DaveTNC

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I've cast some SWCs using a Lee TL358-158-SWC mold from range scrap and tumble lubed them with Lee Liquid Alox and they have worked great for light loads in 38 Special and 357 Magnum cases using Bullseye.

I'm wanting to try some "real" 357 Magnum loads using 2400 powder, but not sure how hot I should try to go with them. Lymans 48th shows data for similar weight, 155-160 gr lead (linotype) bullets at 10.6 (999 fps) to 15.5 (1344 fps). I plan to start low and work up, but was wondering if can realistically expect to reach a "magnum" load with the soft range lead, Alox-lubed bullets, or just abandon the whole idea, load up some FMJs, and save the cast ones for the light plinking loads.

-Dave
 
Are you planning on using gas checks for the 357 mag loads?

Another option for cast bullets is powder coating. Cost is not to much. Harbor Freight powder coat powder and a small toaster oven will do it for you.

If you push cast bullets near jacketed bullets velocities you will have some leading.

The great thing about casting your own is that you will never be out of bullets.

Personally I can cast for .380, 9mm, 40.S&W, 45ACP, 38spcl, 223 and
.308 in 4 different platforms.

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I'm not planning on using gas checks. That mold isn't made for them. Just a plain SWC with a slightly beveled base. And I wouldn't know where to start.

I've been thinking of getting into powder coating, but haven't yet. So far the Alox has worked for the light loads I've been loading. How fast would PCing these bullets let me go?

Thanks!
 
My rule of thumb is max 1200 fps for cast and 1500 for coated. YMMV
 
As for velocity I would keep it in the 800fps range and the go from there. Watch for leading.

If you do lead the barrel, get a real copper chore boy scrub pad and unravel it. Wind the set up onto a bore brush. Scrub the barrel over a piece of paper and watch the lead come rolling out. I have done this and it is surprising what will come out.

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My rule of thumb is max 1200 fps for cast and 1500 for coated. YMMV

Remington 158 SWC are advertised as 1235 fps, so it sounds like I might be able to get that with my bullets. I'm just not sure if the tumbled Alox is as good a lube as whatever they use.

I also noticed that a lot of the commercial 158 FMJ are advertised in the 1200-1300 range. I thought they'd be faster than that.
 
As for velocity I would keep it in the 800fps range and the go from there. Watch for leading.

If you do lead the barrel, get a real copper chore boy scrub pad and unravel it. Wind the set up onto a bore brush. Scrub the barrel over a piece of paper and watch the lead come rolling out. I have done this and it is surprising what will come out.

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I've heard of the Chore Boy trick but so far I've not had to use it. I've been pretty lucky to just have little to no leading with the mild loads I've been using.


Looks like I have a plan. Thanks everyone!
 
I also noticed that a lot of the commercial 158 FMJ are advertised in the 1200-1300 range. I thought they'd be faster than that.

They have to download to take older, not as well constructed guns into consideration. I only shoot my MAX loads in N frame Smiths so there isn't much chance of anything going wrong. I have a 6" Mod 28 that has seen the backside of the moon and is still alive and kicking. Wouldn't dream of doing that with any other gun in the S&W lineup, especially any of my 27's.....
 
I guess that makes sense since they don't know what the're being used in. Have to work to the lowest common denominator nowadays.

I don't think I'll be loading anything to MAX, I just want the 357 to feel like a 357. Sometimes you just want to feel the kick and see some flames. :D
 
Much more to leading than BH or fps. I routinely push plain base .411 well past 1300 fps in my .41s & .358 200gr GC close to 1500 fps from my .357Max.
 
If you're looking for TRUE 357 MAGNUM loads (>1400) stick with Jacketed bullets and save the lead for lower velocities.
I like the Zero JSP bullets for 357mag and 44mag, and they are very cost effective as well. I load and shoot both of these in revolvers and rifles, without any worry about leading. I get 1800fps out of my rifle.

If you do lead the barrel, get a real copper chore boy scrub pad and unravel it. Wind the set up onto a bore brush. Scrub the barrel over a piece of paper and watch the lead come rolling out. I have done this and it is surprising what will come out.
I use Kroil oil along with the Chore Boy method. It may just be my imagination, but the Kroil seems to penetrate between the lead and barrel to help it break loose quicker.
 
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I loaded up a few test rounds using bullets I cast from range scrap using a Lee TL358-158-SWC mold, unsized and tumble lubed with Lee Liquid Alox, and shot them through a 4" Security Six yesterday. I only did a dozen each of 12 grains and 13 grains of 2400 and didn't get any leading at all. I don't have a chrono but the recoil was significantly less than some factory American Eagle and Remington jacketed soft points I also fired to compare them to.

Think I'll load up a few each at 14 and 14.5 grains of 2400 and see what they do.
 
I make the BLL formula for tumble lubing, and sometimes I use that on top of white label lubes in my Lyman lubesizer...

I can run around 1300fps with my own sized cast bullets and they work well with no leading

Sizing to your gun is key
 
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