1937 Dodge D5 Sedan

Dad,

A bit hard to show in photos while the car remains in the garage. But, did the final tweak on the front springs. Bessy has a good rake down in the front. Center of rear bumper is 18" off the ground with the front sitting 3" lower at 15". Side to side, seems to be about equal. The front lower control arms changed from 16 degrees to 8 degrees and the springs went in real nice. (chained em this time so they wouldn't launch!) I think the front springs are about done now, need to get it driving and let them settle a bit. If we need to raise the front end later I can rotate the coils from the lower to higher pocket and pick up 3/4" or so of height on the front end. Bouncing up and down on the bumper is tiring but sure is neat to watch the springs and suspension work! I can still slide under the front of the running board, but its tighter by a good bit, no more using a rolling board!

Started the heater install. Spent all day looking for a place on the firewall but, no dice. With the 3" set back, just no room, even with the compact heater selected. So, since it has the old look, back
down on the right side kick panel and just like the original, the new pipes will go out through the holes that got welded up.....figures.....gotta drill them back out!

Once the heater is done, I'll put in the trans cooler and start plumbing it up to the radiator. Will also remove, trim and finalize the transmission mount.

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Dad.



Check ride is getting very close.



Fuel line.



Brake lines.



Driveshaft.



That's lots of work but nearly to the point of switching from major work to fine tune all the parts to work together.
 
Dad,

Finishing up all the electrical wiring this weekend.

On the punch list is:

Install Battery and cables, Will be using the original under driver seat location.
Install new cigar lighter. I'll hang on to the original 83 year old lighter, still works but probably best from a fire safety persepctive to retire it.
Install stereo. A nod to modern with blue tooth, navigation, text messages read to me by the radio, hands free phone calls, streaming music, USB charger/input and auxiliry music input, plus CD player (who but me still has cds, hell, I still have 8 tracks!)
Install heater switch.
Install USB Chargers and power taps.
Install stereo speakers.
Install fuel sender, after I clean the tank.
Hook up neutral safety.

After that, it'll just be hook up fuel, trans cooler and install fluids and I'll be calling you to come down for first fire on the motor. 20 minute break in at 2000 rpm, in the garage, no mufflers!

It'll be awesome cause we're going to fire it at 0530 hours and wake up all the women for celebratory AM Scotch and Cigars. (Fortunately the Army got most of your hearing and much of mine, so we won't know about all the bitching later!) Think about February, check your schedule.

PS, Gas pedal arrived. 87-01 Jeep Cherokee. Looks like a perfect fit for a flat firewall, two bolts to install. Uses a cable to the carbs. Easy peasy to modify, bend, etc for a perfect fit. Looks like stock too, not that loud billet aluminum stuff.
 
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Dad,

Good progress on the final electrical bits. Finish it tomorrow and start working the go pedal.

New cigar lighter is in place, and as you recall, Bessy comes with a storage area for a pack of filter-less Camels just above the lighter.

Stereo, heater switch, power tap and fast/slow USB ports are installed in the glove box. Just awaiting speakers to install and wire up. I'll call you from the car as soon as I get a battery.

To the left of the instrument panel, the failed brake warning lamp is up top and the programming switch for the gauges is under neath it.

And finally, down on the lower right of the steering column is the gauge pod for the inbound Tachometer and sandwiched between the gauge pod and the dashboard is the microphone for hands free cell calls.

I installed the one gauge positive battery cable, crimped and soldered the terminals. I'll run the one gauge negative cable tomorrow morning. We'll be maintaining the battery in the factory location, under the drivers side front seat in the floor. I'll have to make a non-conductive lid with a seal but the cables run neatly and tight against the underside of the floor, up over the frame and transmission to the starter and ground on the passenger side.

Routed the neutral safety switch wiring over the inside of the firewall and down to the floor pan as we'll be using an above the floor mount shifter. Ran the other lead to the start terminal of the starter solenoid.

Probably get the go pedal installed tomorrow or Monday, then it'll be time to plumb the oil cooler for the trans. Then, we set a date in February to start it. Still won't be able to drive it but first ride ain't real far off either.

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Small delay. Finished the wiring for start up. Disassembled front seat tracks to get em working and low and behold we are missing a number of body mount bolts. I'll finish the seat and then get the body properly secured!!!
 
Dad,

Brake pedal in a poor location for the accelerator, all compounded by a recessed firewall and a giant hump in the floor. Additionally, Ruger indicated that I'm taking entirely too long getting his Hotrod up and running. Pressing forward.....good news is the front seat now moves back and forth.

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So....after fiddling for weeks to get power steering hoses to fit Ol Bessy, I ordered a length of hose and 2 fittings. If it goes together as easy as it looks I'm gonna be really irritated.
 
Ok. Making and installing a custom power steering hose is the same ass pain as fiddling one that's supposed to fit and almost does. So, a brass insert shy of completion because, Naturally, i had the wrong brass fitting on hand!

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Dad, very simple firewall bracket for a cable throttle. Other 2 photos are the days work getting the transmission downshift cable at a better height and adjusted. Success. Cut up a bracket, make a leg and it worked out fine. Gas pedal next and that may mean cutting the floor. We'll see.

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Dad,


Sorry, been down with the flu for a week. Just got to feeling a bit closer to right today so hooked up the throttle cable and managed to rough in the gas pedal without cutting the floor. Still might need to clearance the floor for carpet but at least its in and functional, I'll start plumbing fuel and transmission cooler now.


 
Excellent work. It’s looking really really good. You are in the home stretches now! But we all know that’s where the small tedious work is done!
 
A shout out for BigTen, THANKS!

Good day, and productive, spent together working on Ol Bessy.

While I drained the antifreeze, fixed a lousy completely soaked and saturated and ruined leaky china made paper thermostat gasket (by replacing with an o-ring housing) he muscled his way completely through the fuel system. Took off all the new stainless steel lines and swaged flares on the ends to help retain the rubber hoses, then got it back together. So, we can now pronounce the fuel system from filler cap to carbs, "Ready for First Start." (Note to self: No more stainless steel fuel line...its a bear to bend, broke my tubing bender, and must be a heller to flare given the smoke coming off his hands trying to cinch down the flaring tool!)

Meantime, I was fiddling with the wonkey, wobbly steering double u-joint and second support bearing (fiddling...taking the dayum thing off so I could potentially drop it all in the spare parts bin, thats another story) he managed to nicely convert a late model Chevy Truck brake-light switch and bracket to fit an aftermarket under dash brake pedal system in a 37 Dodge. So, instant on brake lights instead of the slow wind up to brake lights provided by the old style hydraulic switch. While he was under there and in the time it took me to remove 3 bolts in a steering bracket, he also mounted the brake pedal and got it nicely set up at a comfortable position and slightly higher than the gas pedal for safety.

Somewhere in there I did the really hard job though, (not right to give all the harder jobs to your pals)......So, I shoved a 1/4" vacuum tube in place to hook up the transmission modulator. Glad I got the skills for that but did have to jack up the car a bit since its sitting at ride height and the running board snags my gut on the way under and back. Car might be too low.
 
Dad,

Get busy thinking on when to come here. We are 6 hours and two exhaust stub outs from having you turn the key and starting your car! Come sooner.

BigTen,

Once again, thanks for coming on board and over to lend assistance and professional advice. I have a few days delay while i settle up on the purchase of the Tbird but, Sunday and Monday I should finalize the transmission plumbing on the Dodge.

In the meantime, as we discussed, the steering hook up has been my nemesis so far. The new borgeson single steering joints came in along with another section of DD shaft. I lad it out on the car and confirmed, the current set up is a bit steep at the center. On removing the second support bearing and the center double u-joint, I installed a single joint in the center and some new shafting.

With that huge double joint out of the way we have all the room in the world to do as you suggested.

1. Straighten the shot from the rack to the firewall by bringing inner end of this shaft upward and inward. We can make a near straight shot to the belly of the rams horn manifold above the doughnut seal.

2. Install a single joint in the center and we'll be able to shorten the shaft out of the steering rack thereby easing the angles on both of the other joints. (It won't be a straight shot from rack to column like Dads 47 Chevy truck but it will be a lot straighter and no interference as the engine rocks on the mounts.)

3. Remove the rear steering support bearing as it will no longer be needed.

4. The forward support bearing can be moved from inside the frame to outside and mounted on a very simple flat steel bracket.

Overall I think we can come up 1/2 to 3/4 inches and in at least 1/4 to 1/2 inch with a much simpler set up. I'm on it. Thanks.
 
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Dad cant make it for 2 or more weeks but he said start it asap.

Shooting for first start since 1992 on sat sun or monday.

I should be ready to go by then. Roll it forward and kick the motor into life. Fingers crossed!
 
Spanky new battery is on the charger at 2 Amps to bring it up full. Shouldn't need back up batteries but have the Nissan and should have the t bird here by then just in case. I wanted an 800 amp 34 or 34/78 series but the largest that would fit the hole in the floor is a 750 amp. So, thats what i got.


Drivers side manifold reinstalled. Trans cooler hooked up and tubing secured on bracket along the oil pan. Picked up 12 feet of flexible 2.25" pipe to hook up to the down pipe stubs so we can run the exhaust out from under the car to the side or, since we'll be working from both sides, out the front away from our feet.


Broke the bottom out of the brake light switch on disassembly so ran out and got a new one. Hooked up the charger to the car and the rear sockets are wonky/loose on the bulbs so may replace those, if so, I'll split out the brake lamp from the turn lamps at the same time by adding another single filament bulb to the rear buckets. But, the brake lights work!


Still not seeing any oil, fuel or trans fluid leaks. Gotta remember to pull the plug off the transmission tail shaft before we start it and put it in gear.


Fuel gauge responds to power now. I'll put clean gasoline in it Saturday morning and let it sit a few hours to check for leaks before we fire it.


About all that's left to do is rotate the engine to check the valve adjustment, prime the oil system and drop the dizzy back in at TDC. I think we'll break it in at 0 to 4 BTDC and then once we get it on the road in late March, see if it likes 6 to 8 Before top dead center.


Gonna be a long wait to the weekend!


Guess I'll put the battery in tomorrow and program the stereo to link up to the phone for calls, texts, navigation and streaming.


Prolly oughta pick up the Tbird in there too......
 
Dad,
Just like you taught me and just like we did all those years scraping by to keep her running.......when in doubt, run flex pipe out...on coat hangers! So, couple sections run forward and to the sides/out of the way so we can roll her forward Saturday for first start.
Charged battery is in. We have power to starter and the Dizzy and everything else. I'll pull the chrome valve covers and check the lifter adjustment tomorrow. Probably also pull the choke cable and dizzy and see if there is enough room to get a drill in place to prime the motor.
Fingers crossed. Sat is the day with Sun and Mon as back up days for my screw ups.

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