Chrome removal and pistol restoration

grungewehr39

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I have a Walther P-38 I picked up years ago. It has been chrome (or nickel plated, can't really tell) at some time. I love shooting it, and so do my girls. And, it does look kinda cool the way it is. My question is, can it be removed and re-blued? Would that process remove any of the sharpness of the stamps? How costly is it or could it be? Just kicking the idea around.
 
Dunno, but if it was me, I’d get it hard chromed in a Matt finish.


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The only way I know to get chrome off would be to bead blast it and yes, the lines would suffer. You've said that it's a shooter. Chrome is a very durable finish and easy to clean. I would just enjoy it as is.
 
I'd do some more research before I jumped into this. I have a friend that runs a high quality plating shop in Florida. He does a lot of work on cycles and cars that you see in the magazine layouts. Unless you want to invest big bucks....I'd forget it. I had a SW top break 38SW refinished many years ago. One of my engineers had a home brew (he did GREAT WORK) plating shop. He disassembled it....plated and buffed it. Remarkable job. OPPS. He could not get it back together and I had a friend, who was a gunsmith, reassemble it. He had to refit everything. Fortunately, they were friends and co-workers so they did not charge me MSRP prices. That, because of the age (1870's), greatly reduced the value. Here are some links....you are NOT the first to ask this question. No offense to the person that can dissolve plating....but as a AESFS Certified Finishing Engineer (in another life), I would NOT do that.

https://www.waltherforums.com/forum/classics/43840-interarms-p38-nickel-plate-leave.html

https://forums.gunboards.com/showth...a-nickle-plated-pistol-be-quot-un-plated-quot

Lots of info out there.....so read and heed.....
 
I see no pictures of course I'm having a hard time believing there even is a real pistola.

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Was more thinking out loud than anything. I'd be better off looking for another matching war time one then attempting to restore this one to it's former state. Does make me wonder who and when did/had it chromed.
 
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Reverse electroplating is the best way to remove chrome plating. I've also done it by very carefully blasting with fine glass beads. Sand and aluminum oxide are too aggressive in my opinion.
 
Reverse electroplating is the best way to remove chrome plating. I've also done it by very carefully blasting with fine glass beads. Sand and aluminum oxide are too aggressive in my opinion.
I have a project for you related to this thread. Shoot me a phone number in a PM. I’ll be in Huntersville this week.
 
Reverse electroplating is the best way to remove chrome plating. I've also done it by very carefully blasting with fine glass beads. Sand and aluminum oxide are too aggressive in my opinion.

from memory, reverse electroplating is something that an experienced person (shop) can do. If you do, indeed, have a Chrome (based on age, it is Hexavalent Chrome....a carcinagen), then you will end up with a minute amount of CR+6 waste. Dispose of that, as a "individual", along with the solution, at a Hazardous Waste Forgiveness day....most NC counties have them. Nickel is the same....but not as toxic...but also dispose of the bath and the residue in the same manner. Nickel requires less current (Amps /Sq Area) which is logical as Hard Chrome requires a higher amp density when being applied. Need to d0 the process in a well ventilated area because of the fumes.

An old WIVES tale is you will generate Cyanide Gas. WRONG....not even a Zinc plated (or Cad or Brass) item that was done in an Alkyline Cyanide bath will generate CN when you reverse plate. The Carbon and the Nitrogen be GONE....long gone and you have pure metal to etch off....in an acid solution....

As long as the individual does it properly and monitors it, you would be OK. BUT, if there are wear spots or pitting or bare spots, then I BELIEVE that you will have issues. Those spots will begin to errode or be "etched". A very thin, good layer with surface thicknesses that are uniform should be OK.

Your call as to what to do... You might find it MORE valuable to keep it on and find another piece or a modern version and bang away with that.... NEVER do something to an old firearm thinking it will improve it (or increase its value) without a LOT of research.... Learned the hard way....

Good Luck...
 
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