I have just inherited a PPK in .32 ACP. Based on the serial number it was a 1941 manufacture; says Thuer (can’t do the umlaut) on the barrel so original factory. It was not well taken care of. A lot of the bluing is gone, it was filthy inside, and I had to use Brasso on the exterior just to read the manufacturing information. My question is - what is normally done to clean up an old C&R like this when the condition is far from 100%? The action is smooth and after a normal cleaning, the barrel looks good inside. It has one original Walther magazine that also needs a major cleaning. Do I just do a slow detail cleaning with regular gun cleaner and toothbrushes? Do I use Brasso or something similar on places like the outside of the barrel and the slide? I’m not planning to sell it - just shoot it occasionally and keep it as an heirloom. Thanks.
1941 Walther PPK
- Thread starter mtns2bch
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Slow detail cleaning, perhaps a replacement of the original springs from Wolff. Don't reblue it or anything, that'll destroy the original value. Congratulations, the PPK is a sexy gun and I think they really shine in .32 ACP (God's caliber).
IDriveAJag
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I like to use Ballistol and a toothbrush. If it is rust, it depends.
YankeeBruce2213
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No brasso. Make a hoppes bath and field strip it down and clean with swabs and soft bristle brushes. Wipe, scrub, repeat. Also any before and after pictures? I'd love to see the gun. Original PPK are my all time favorite handguns and I've been looking for a blued 32 PPK for years.
mellocollins
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Sonic cleaner with balistoll and water
Just a heads-up, some of the older PPK springs are not compatible with new replacements. The chamber end of barrel on old PPKs has a retaining collar for the recoil spring instead of a simple shoulder. I think JackFirst makes a repro recoil spring that has a reduced diameter “shank” on one end to fit under the collar, but you still might need to reduce the stock for a proper fit. Check for rust under there as well.
Magazines are actually quite easy to clean, and new production mags should be compatible without issue.
If none of the springs appear rusted or structurally compromised (kinked, cracked), I’d wager they’re probably fine for another lifetime or two. For a .32, these have relatively heavy slides plus stout hammers and hammer springs, both of which reduce forces compressing the recoil spring during cycling.
The one thing to watch for is decocking the hammer. Best practice is to decock while maintaining a hold on the hammer to stop it from slamming into the safety over and over. I have seen both safeties and hammers cracked and deformed by long term abuse.
Edit: also, no need to treat it differently than any other pistol with respect to cleaning. Use a good basic gun cleaner or solvent, and chase that with a little oil on the surfaces that move against each other. Old grips and mag toes can be fragile, so try to keep solvents off of those and don’t eject mags onto concrete.
Enjoy yours!
Magazines are actually quite easy to clean, and new production mags should be compatible without issue.
If none of the springs appear rusted or structurally compromised (kinked, cracked), I’d wager they’re probably fine for another lifetime or two. For a .32, these have relatively heavy slides plus stout hammers and hammer springs, both of which reduce forces compressing the recoil spring during cycling.
The one thing to watch for is decocking the hammer. Best practice is to decock while maintaining a hold on the hammer to stop it from slamming into the safety over and over. I have seen both safeties and hammers cracked and deformed by long term abuse.
Edit: also, no need to treat it differently than any other pistol with respect to cleaning. Use a good basic gun cleaner or solvent, and chase that with a little oil on the surfaces that move against each other. Old grips and mag toes can be fragile, so try to keep solvents off of those and don’t eject mags onto concrete.
Enjoy yours!
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I’m so confused by that entire thread.
I can understand being new to guns or unsure of how to take care of a specific gun.
I cannot understand the Dunning-Kruger effect needed to be scared of some CLP but also think you can teach someone else how to clean a gun.
Blow out the striker channel with compressed air and wipe everything else off. Poor Walther CS folks.
Thanks all. The Brasso was just to get the initial mess off the slide so I could see the manufacturing information. The action is smooth and the recoil spring seems fine. I’m going to field strip and clean with gun cleaner, then lubricant. There is minimal rust - just a lot of dirt and what appears to be old powder that was not cleaned out of the slide when last fires who knows how long ago. Would you suggest CLP or RemOil as lubricant on an older gun like this? The double action trigger pull is insanely heavy like apparently these all are, but the single action feels good. It points very nicely - I hope it shots as nicely as it points.
ronn47
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Look at getting new springs.
Any modern lubricant is fine. Rem Oil and Hoppes Lubricating Oil are great straight-up oils for use after cleaning with a solvent like No. 9. CLP is convenient in that it has multiple uses. Ballistol is another great option. None of them will harm the pistol.
Trigger pull is heavy because there’s absolutely no leverage in the DA pull. It’s a very early DA design.
Swapping to a lighter hammer spring is a can of worms because that
(1) would require changing your recoil spring in order to keep the gun cycling right (it’s a simple blowback gun, so spring tension it the only means of controlling timing)… and recoil springs for old PPKs are a pain in the butt unless you’re comfortable machining on springs at home; and
(2) you are going to risk light strikes in exchange for a tiny trigger pull improvement.
Trigger pull is heavy because there’s absolutely no leverage in the DA pull. It’s a very early DA design.
Swapping to a lighter hammer spring is a can of worms because that
(1) would require changing your recoil spring in order to keep the gun cycling right (it’s a simple blowback gun, so spring tension it the only means of controlling timing)… and recoil springs for old PPKs are a pain in the butt unless you’re comfortable machining on springs at home; and
(2) you are going to risk light strikes in exchange for a tiny trigger pull improvement.
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There are two schools of thought on gun springs. One is replace all or most old springs and the other is replace old springs when they need it. If a spring is not kinked or rusted I leave IF the gun functions okay. I have a 1939 PPK and it cycles just fine. I will add the like all of my older handguns, I shoot them less than newer ones.
Thanks everyone. I cleaned everything I could see with Hoppes Gun Cleaner and lubricated with CLP spray. I had already cleaned out the barrel with Hoppes 9. After dry firing a few times I let it sit overnight and then dry fired again. Boy, the cleaning and lubing made a huge difference with the DA trigger pull. It’s not nearly as heavy as before - much more comfortable. The action and the SA pull are smooth and easy. Grip panels are cracked but I gather that is not unusual given the age. Time to go buy a box of .32’s and try it out. But before that - when dry firing DA, the trigger does not release all the way unless I pull my finger back all the way to the front of the trigger guard. Is this normal? It’s a very small trigger guard. I also realize that if it had live rounds, it would re-cock to SA with a super-short trigger pull. But if this means a spring is weak, I’d rather get it checked before I shoot it.
This is sweet.. One area of my collection thats lacking for sure, vintage pistols
pee wee
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here's a 1936 vintage PP. Bring back, Crown over N proofs. Have only cleaned it, oiled it and shot it occasionally. Sweet little shooter too.
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I finally took the PPK to the range this week. It shot nicely - SA trigger was good. Did not try DA. So easy to rack the slide, chamber the round and cock the hammer. Like I found with the Bersa Thunder, it had a bit more recoil than would be expected from the weight and the respective cartridges - I gather that the fixed barrel contributes to the recoil. Much more a keepsake that won’t be shot much, but old all-metal guns can really hold up. Wish mine looked like pee wee’s but most of the bluing is long gone on mine.
IDriveAJag
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Your PPK just has character. My PPK had the original finish wheeled off and is nickel plated. The frame on mine is alloy, and the gun is very light and easy to carry. Unfortunately that makes recoil very snappy and is not very pleasant to shoot. I find the PP is a way better as a shooter.
YankeeBruce2213
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I hate when original finishes are removed but this looks beautiful. You're right about the alloy framed 380 they are a bit snappy. I've been looking for a ppk in 32 for ages just because they're softer shooters and I'm a sucker for all things 32. What year is yours ? I see it has the 90° safety
IDriveAJag
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I believe it was made about 1935. It is in 32 and would probably be completely horrible to shoot in 380.
YankeeBruce2213
Well-Known Member
That's awesome. One of these days I'll have one. I've had my eyes on some from a specialist but I need to get some things squared away before I order one, the ones I'm looking at are starting at about 2200 😳😅
pee wee
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Speaking of 32 acp, check this out. Was given this one.
carolinafirearmsforum.com
Walther Model 4 - Trying to bring some life back to this................and now magazine issue?/?
PIC Heavy. I was given this from a buddy who said I could have it. Told me it did not work and I could have if I wanted. OF Course I want it. From the initial inspection you could tell someone in the past had painted the pistol. Not real presentable, but hey lets see what's going on with the...
carolinafirearmsforum.com