I’m relatively new to reloading. I loaded 50 yesterday and took them to the range. The first bullet would fire, but the next wouldn’t completely chamber. Factory ammo cycled fine. I was reloading with 3.8 grains of titegroup and a 124 gn lead projectile. OAL was about 1.15. Any input would be great. Thanks.
9mm Not Chambering
- Thread starter Alan2010
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Check the taper crimp die setting and do a “plunk test”.
Remove the barrel, drop a round in and verify it drops in easy, you can spin it with your fingers, and it falls out. I had to shorten my rounds for my CZ.
Remove the barrel, drop a round in and verify it drops in easy, you can spin it with your fingers, and it falls out. I had to shorten my rounds for my CZ.
TriggerMan
Well-Known Member
Do you full length resize?
My P365 didn't tolerate a specific type of ammo that was 1.17" OAL. I would try the plunk test noted above (i.e. bullet should fall all the way into the chamber and rotate freely), and if it fails, try a shorter OAL.
Or get a case gage to check rounds if you don't want to use the barrel. 9mm is the only round I have had issues with reloading. They don't want to drop into the gage. Tried Lee and RCBS dies, different crimp dies, Lee and Dillon loader, different bullets and 2 different case gages. Finally gave up on 9's.
Chihuahua Floyd
Happy to be here
Case gage all the way.
Mine will do 9 mm, 45, 40 andone other I do not remember
Mine will do 9 mm, 45, 40 andone other I do not remember
I cannot imagine a set of 9mm Luger dies not having a full-length sizing die. It squeezes the fired case to below chamber diameter. If it is a carbide die, which it probably is, set the die so that it is just barely above (the thickness of a piece of paper or a bit less) the shell holder when the ram is fully raised. A little lube, a very little, can make sizing easier. The expander die brings the inside diameter of the case back up to the proper dimension to hold the bullet tightly and can be used to bell the mouth of the case to help when seating the bullet. A very small bell is all that is needed. Enough is enough. More is not better. The taper crimping die will be used to remove the bell so the round can chamber. The bullet will be held in the case by the case tension and not by a crimp. Do not be tempted to try to apply a heavy crimp. Try the finished round in a case gauge or, even better, the chamber of the barrel of the gun you will be using.
If it does not plunk in the barrel or gauge, there are several things that can be adjusted. .
Check to see if the sized but not belled cases fit into the chamber or gauge. If they do not, readjust the sizing die or try a different sizing die.
The overall length may be too long. The bullet may be engaging the rifling before the round is fully chambered. I have some 45 bullets that are a little fatter than others and need to be seated more deeply in order for the round to seat. Different bullets have different profiles and may need different seating depths. Seat to the depth that works and not to the depth given in some reloading manual.
The taper crimp may not be removing all the bell. Adjust the die to give a very small amount of additional crimp.
Seating or crimping may have bulged the case a bit if you had to use much force to do either activity. Neither should require much force.
Your components, especially the cases, may not be quite right. Not all headstamps and bullets are the same. Try different cases and bullets.
Some people use a Lee Factory Crimp Die to cover up any problems by postsizing the assembled round. I have several for different chamberings but suggest that the problems be fixed so the postsizing feature will not be needed. They do give good crimps even if the postsizing feature does not come into play. It is generally wise to seat and crimp in two different steps, and the FCD is not a bad choice for a dedicated crimp die.
If it does not plunk in the barrel or gauge, there are several things that can be adjusted. .
Check to see if the sized but not belled cases fit into the chamber or gauge. If they do not, readjust the sizing die or try a different sizing die.
The overall length may be too long. The bullet may be engaging the rifling before the round is fully chambered. I have some 45 bullets that are a little fatter than others and need to be seated more deeply in order for the round to seat. Different bullets have different profiles and may need different seating depths. Seat to the depth that works and not to the depth given in some reloading manual.
The taper crimp may not be removing all the bell. Adjust the die to give a very small amount of additional crimp.
Seating or crimping may have bulged the case a bit if you had to use much force to do either activity. Neither should require much force.
Your components, especially the cases, may not be quite right. Not all headstamps and bullets are the same. Try different cases and bullets.
Some people use a Lee Factory Crimp Die to cover up any problems by postsizing the assembled round. I have several for different chamberings but suggest that the problems be fixed so the postsizing feature will not be needed. They do give good crimps even if the postsizing feature does not come into play. It is generally wise to seat and crimp in two different steps, and the FCD is not a bad choice for a dedicated crimp die.
All the advice you have received above is good advice. I would be willing to bet that your overall length is too long as several mentioned above. Doing a plunk test with a gauge or barrel is fairly essential when you are adjusting your dies and even after. If you have not already, get several reloading manuals and read them. They should give good detail on how to set up dies and how to load rounds. Not all data sets agree when it comes to which powders to use and how much to use. Look at several to get a feel for what powder to use and how much to use as your starting point.
Where do you live? I'm more than positive someone local will be glad to help you, in person. Everything @Charlie said is great. But, imaging it in your head and doing it are very different than having someone walk you through it.
Personally, I've never had an issue loading 9mm. I've always used 124gr FMJ round nose projectiles. If you're using a hollow point or flat nose, that could totally change everything. All things that an experienced loader can walk you through.
Personally, I've never had an issue loading 9mm. I've always used 124gr FMJ round nose projectiles. If you're using a hollow point or flat nose, that could totally change everything. All things that an experienced loader can walk you through.
If you haven't been reloading long, lead might not be the best place to start. They are typically larger in diameter and blunter than equivalent jacketed bullets, which commonly causes two chambering issues, the length everyone is mentioning, and a light crimp just to straighten the case walls may leave the case mouth diameter too large.
I'm not saying go crazy on the crimp, but if reducing the OAL doesn't get it done they may need a little more, incrementally increase if needed.
Once you do get them running watch for leading in the bore.
And CBC brass sucks, it fails plunk more than any other.
Enjoy the process, otherwise it's just frustrating.
I'm not saying go crazy on the crimp, but if reducing the OAL doesn't get it done they may need a little more, incrementally increase if needed.
Once you do get them running watch for leading in the bore.
And CBC brass sucks, it fails plunk more than any other.
Enjoy the process, otherwise it's just frustrating.
You need to read a reloading book like Lee’s before doing any more loading
Or "The ABC's of Reloading". I read it front to back before I ever touched my newly purchased setup. Nowadays it's easy enough to find everything you need on YouTube, but you're also taking your chances with someone that also just started loading. "Basic" loading is really basic. But from there, boy does it get technical!
As noted above, get some legit reloading books including the Lyman manual. double check your charge weights - don’t trust any one scale. Get a chamber gauge. It’s worth the investment. Plunk test will work in a pinch but most chambers are larger than a chamber gauge, which is a more strict and thus reliable assessment of the cartridge. EGW makes aluminum multi-round gauges to speed up the process. Also worth the expense.
One thing worth noting about case gages is that a burr on the rim of the case may keep the round from going all the way in. I keep a fine file handy to take care of burrs when I encounter one. The burrs generally do not keep the round from seating fully in the barrel.
Having been through the process and beat my head against a wall making things work, I mostly cast and coat my own these days.
Buying for economy it is hard to beat the Blue Bullets, they are coated cast lead, but the coating is good enough that generally they don't need to be oversize. The round nose 125 runs well in most guns, IIRC I load it short 1.1 and it runs well and shoots good enough in every 9mm I own.
For an FMJ or plated, I buy what's cheapest. Some definitely shoot better than others but most will group 4" or so at 25 yards without much work, good enough for what I do.
Case gauges vs barrel chamber "plunk test".
The vast majority of case gauges will not test for bullets seated too long, since they do NOT simulate the throat/leade/rifling of an actual chamber. They check the brass up to the case mouth - that is all. Take a bare projectile and drop it through the case gauge just to be sure - unless the bullet is way oversized, they should drop straight through. (There are some custom made case gauges that are reamed with the same reamer used to ream the chamber of the barrel, but that are matched ONLY to that barrel).
From the case mouth forward (just the bullet) there is no substitute for doing a plunk test in the barrel of the gun you are loading for. As I acquired new guns in 9mm, I had to repeat this procedure, as some guns have tighter chambers than others. I have an AR 9mm carbine that has a very short leade - I have a special load just for that gun as a result (very accurate). I can shoot the AR loads in my other guns, but not always the other way around. Do a search for "plunk test" on Youtube.
It is very possible that the round will not seat fully in the case gauge, but will plunk just fine in the barrel. This is because the case gauge is cut to the maximum SAAMI cartridge dimensions. SAAMI also has minimum chamber dimensions, which have enough tolerance to insure maximum size brass will always fit minimum size chambers.
What I have found with most 9mm rounds that will not fully seat into the case gauge is that they have burrs on the rim, most likely from extractors deforming the rim when chambering or ejecting. That rarely causes a problem in the gun since the chambers in most guns do not come close to the rim. When I am running my rounds through the case gauge, I keep a small file handy that I use to take down the burr, just to be sure.
From your description, I suspect the bullet is seated too long. Different bullets have different profiles. For instance, I have two different plated 230gn bullets that I use in 45acp, and there is no OAL that will work for both. I have to seat one of them no longer than 1.200 or it will not plunk. The other, if I seat it to 1.200, the case mouth isn't touching the bullet. I can seat that bullet all the way to 1.260 without any problem.
Good luck, and let us know what you figure out.
The vast majority of case gauges will not test for bullets seated too long, since they do NOT simulate the throat/leade/rifling of an actual chamber. They check the brass up to the case mouth - that is all. Take a bare projectile and drop it through the case gauge just to be sure - unless the bullet is way oversized, they should drop straight through. (There are some custom made case gauges that are reamed with the same reamer used to ream the chamber of the barrel, but that are matched ONLY to that barrel).
From the case mouth forward (just the bullet) there is no substitute for doing a plunk test in the barrel of the gun you are loading for. As I acquired new guns in 9mm, I had to repeat this procedure, as some guns have tighter chambers than others. I have an AR 9mm carbine that has a very short leade - I have a special load just for that gun as a result (very accurate). I can shoot the AR loads in my other guns, but not always the other way around. Do a search for "plunk test" on Youtube.
It is very possible that the round will not seat fully in the case gauge, but will plunk just fine in the barrel. This is because the case gauge is cut to the maximum SAAMI cartridge dimensions. SAAMI also has minimum chamber dimensions, which have enough tolerance to insure maximum size brass will always fit minimum size chambers.
What I have found with most 9mm rounds that will not fully seat into the case gauge is that they have burrs on the rim, most likely from extractors deforming the rim when chambering or ejecting. That rarely causes a problem in the gun since the chambers in most guns do not come close to the rim. When I am running my rounds through the case gauge, I keep a small file handy that I use to take down the burr, just to be sure.
From your description, I suspect the bullet is seated too long. Different bullets have different profiles. For instance, I have two different plated 230gn bullets that I use in 45acp, and there is no OAL that will work for both. I have to seat one of them no longer than 1.200 or it will not plunk. The other, if I seat it to 1.200, the case mouth isn't touching the bullet. I can seat that bullet all the way to 1.260 without any problem.
Good luck, and let us know what you figure out.
Simple answer: you start with geometry.
Fashion a dummy cartridge to check fit your gun (no powder or primer) plunk it, and shorten it a tad if it doesn't work. repeat till it does. check to see if your oal is within spec.
I've never purchased a 9mm projectile that could not pass the plunk test after adjustment (many many different kinds)
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Factory crimp die at the last stage is always a good idea especially if you are using mixed brass. This forms the loaded cartridge to factory spec.
www.midwayusa.com
A case gauge is also a good investment although you can use the DISASSEMBLED barrel in a pinch .
www.midwayusa.com
Lee Carbide Factory Crimp Die 9mm Luger
The Lee Precision Carbide Factory Crimp Die is designed to give reloaders the perfect crimp on each round of reloaded ammunition. The Factory Crimp Die...
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A case gauge is also a good investment although you can use the DISASSEMBLED barrel in a pinch .
Hornady Cartridge Ga 9mm Luger
Hornady Lock-N-Load Cartridge Gauges allow the user to check their cases and ammo to ensure a correct fit in SAAMI chambers. Cut to SAAMI maximum...
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I'll argue this is not optional. It's essential. The case guage is great for production but it's not useful at all for setup.
When my wife and I took our concealed handgun class in 2020 I loaded up a bunch of 9mm 124grn fmj rounds with 4.0 grains of tightgroup which worked fine in my CZ75B. When we got our permits we went to the next Metrolina gun show and I bought a Ruger SR9C. When I took it to the range, I loaded some of the qualifying ammo and fired the first round, I lined up on the target for the next shot and pulled the trigger but nothing happened. It had not pushed the slide back far enough to pick up the next round. I loaded up some Blazer Brass 124grn fmj and it ran fine.
I had the same issue with my Walther PPQ 45. I have been reloading and shooting 45 acp for literally decades for my two Colt 1911’s with no issues. Took my PPQ out and it wasn’t even close to chambering. Almost gave up but I had a few carry rounds of 45 acp and worked fine. Bought a Lee carbide taper crimp die and the problem went away.
Moral of the story: Colt “quality“ is a big a myth as 1911 reliability.
What if the Colt chamber was in spec but PPQ was undersized?
Factory ammo runs 100% in the Walther.
The Walther is also Gold Cup accurate out of the box with no fiddling.