AmazonBasics Full Synthetic

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Anybody used the AmazonBasics full synthetic? $19.99 delivered for 5qts. This video was in my YT feed yesterday:



Also saw this one, which wasn’t super technical. :rolleyes:
 
Curious if it’s an actual synthetic or a blend.
 
It all comes from the exact same place.
I asked a guy at Advance once why their damn oil was twice the price of Walmart’s...

His response...”Walmart oil is old”


I get a discount at NAPA. I get their full synthetic for 2.99 a quart and is has Valvoline written on the box
 
Anybody used the AmazonBasics full synthetic? $19.99 delivered for 5qts. This video was in my YT feed yesterday:


This video shows that metal on metal contact will still wear out regardless of what oil is being present.

Engine oil systems are under pressure to keep a manufactured "clearance" full of oil to prevent metal on metal contact and to keep debris washed out.
 
Haven’t used it but after seeing that Project Farm video, I wouldn’t hesitate to use it.

However, I always find rebates for penzoil or mobil1.
 
Like Scotty says above, if it meets the API ratings, it will work as good as any other oil.
 
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Like Scotty says above, if it meets the API ratings, it will work as good as any other oil.

Maybe. Maybe not. Some oils just barely reach the ratings while the top tier oils far exceed the ratings. Some of the smaller mfg's have been caught with oils on the market that did not meet the ratings they were labeled for. It's best to stick with a major Mfg and not worry about it. I'm a Shell/Pennzoil guy myself. Pennzoil Platinum with pure plus for my cars and Shell Rotella T6 for my motorcycle.
 
Just throwing out an idea, and I do know that some engines require synthetic oil. Its usually due to either a high performance engine or one that is boosted in some sort. I do understand that folks want to feed their engines a good oil so that it last longer, but when does the cost of premium oil justify longevity ? Meaning in the time span your going own that vehicle... Who has had an engine oil related failure that would not have happened IF you were using a premium oil ?
Ive been in the service business for personal transportation for the past 40 plus years, just throwing that out..My Toyota, that I purchased new back in 2004 now has 394,ooo miles on the clock and Ive used nothing but the cheapest conventional oil I could find, but I changed it every 5000 miles.. If this engine has lasted this long using cheap oil, why do you think you need to spend more ?
 
You can get 5qt of Super Tech at Walmart for $17, I think. It's full synthetic and around here it's made by Warner Performance Products. They make a good product.

I'll second @Lager , I have a 94 Ranger with 410k miles on the original engine and I've never used anything but conventional oil in. Most newer cars that call for a 0-20 or 5-20 oil are synthetic or synthetic blend simply because they can't get that light of an oil out of conventional and meet the lubrication requirements.
 
Like Scotty says above, if it meets the API ratings, it will work as good as any other oil.
You would think. We sent out a sample of our Dexos synthetic after some engine failures and got back a cautionary result stating the viscosities did not match reported or some such.
 
I use Shell Rotella T synthetic. Getting 3 gallon packs off Amazon for under $50 and usually rebates on top of that.
 
You would think. We sent out a sample of our Dexos synthetic after some engine failures and got back a cautionary result stating the viscosities did not match reported or some such.

I can see that happening. I was just referring to the consumer purchased engine oils in general. But I can certainly see something like the situation you mentioned existing out there.
 
You can get 5qt of Super Tech at Walmart for $17, I think. It's full synthetic and around here it's made by Warner Performance Products. They make a good product.

I'll second @Lager , I have a 94 Ranger with 410k miles on the original engine and I've never used anything but conventional oil in. Most newer cars that call for a 0-20 or 5-20 oil are synthetic or synthetic blend simply because they can't get that light of an oil out of conventional and meet the lubrication requirements.

Walmart Super Tech user here (except for one car that they don't offer the oil weight for: 0W-40) . 4 vehicles All running full synthetic- mostly to buy a little time when one or more of them have to go long on a change interval for one reason or another.

I also never use the crazy long oil change intervals that mfrs suggest these days, which to me is a subject of more controversy than different oil brands of the same spec.
 
Havent tried the amazon oil. Drag Boat racers that I knew used nothing but Penzoil and so did a engine builder I knew but that was before the age of synthetic. BMW dealers used to use nothing but Shell Rotella and they made a big deal out of it. But I dont know anymore. I use whatever the dealerships use because I get free oil changes with my car purchases and leases.
 
Walmart Super Tech user here (except for one car that they don't offer the oil weight for: 0W-40) . 4 vehicles All running full synthetic- mostly to buy a little time when one or more of them have to go long on a change interval for one reason or another.

I also never use the crazy long oil change intervals that mfrs suggest these days, which to me is a subject of more controversy than different oil brands of the same spec.

You know, years ago my dad was involved in an oil study for tractor trailers. They found that the oil itself didn't lose it's ability to lubricate, it didn't lose its shear strength or break down. What you're fighting is dirt. The dirt created by the burning fuel is what contaminates oil and causes engine damage so what you're working towards is finding the threshold of dirt that the oil can suspend. This is one reason you're seeing longer service intervals. Engine materials and oils have gotten better as well.
 
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