Any plumbers answer me this?

[Snal~]

I have an order in for a water tap with meter (Laurens County SC Water dept)....They require a pressure reducing valve, in a separate box, at the owner's expense.
I have the reducing valve in hand, as well as the box. What else (fittings) will I need to connect to the valve to the meter?
I only have weekends to do this kinda stuff, so I'd like to make sure that I have everything that I need....otherwise it's at least a 13 mile drive for supplies.

TIA

 

[Catfish]

I installed one of these for myself but I'm not a plumber. I think we need more info: Post pics or model # of the PRV you bought and size+material of the service line to your house.

 

[Snal~]

I installed one of these for myself but I'm not a plumber. I think we need more info: Post pics or model # of the PRV you bought and size+material of the service line to your house.

Don't have the mod# but it has a 3/4" female NPT inlet and a 3/4" male outlet. Only thing that I know about the meter to be installed is that it is also a 3/4". I assumed that all I'd need is a long nipple or short pipe, and not sure what my side of the meter will be, so maybe a coupling too. just wanted to make sure.
Don't the meters have funky fittings to allow for easy swap-out?

 

[Burt Gummer]

The ones I inspect are just compression fittings from the meter setter out several feet, then 90 up to the rpz then down and 90 towards your building. Depth is subjective on all of it though you’ll want everything outside the hot box to be below the frost line as you know.

 

[Burt Gummer]

Larry check your PM’s.

 

[Snal~]

The ones I inspect are just compression fittings from the meter setter out several feet, then 90 up to the rpz then down and 90 towards your building. Depth is subjective on all of it though you’ll want everything outside the hot box to be below the frost line as you know.

All of this is in-line, based on everything I've seen by looking at the neighbor's boxes. Bury in this area is only 11" min. I just can't tell by looking at theirs where the counties part ends. Wish I had taken a picture.

 

[Burt Gummer]

All of this is in-line, based on everything I've seen by looking at the neighbor's boxes. Bury in this area is only 11" min. I just can't tell by looking at theirs where the counties part ends. Wish I had taken a picture.

The counties part will most likely end on the building side of the meter. You’ll be responsible from the meter setter to the building including the RPZ and hot box. The county responsible from the meter setter back to the water main

 

[Snal~]

The counties part will most likely end on the building side of the meter. You’ll be responsible from the meter setter to the building including the RPZ and hot box. The county responsible from the meter setter back to the water main

Yep.
All that I can see int the neighbors boxes is....(meter box) ---Meter----iron pipe->>>><12+- inches to--->----(PRV box)----PVC pipe--PRV---PVC pipe----->>>house.

 

[Burt Gummer]

Use copper for everything and compressions fittings

 

[elmostump]

The ones I inspect are just compression fittings from the meter setter out several feet, then 90 up to the rpz then down and 90 towards your building. Depth is subjective on all of it though you’ll want everything outside the hot box to be below the frost line as you know.

Ha, Ha, he said the ones I inspect....

 

[Burt Gummer]

Ha, Ha, he said the ones I inspect....

 

[fieldgrade]

View attachment 295732

I liked it better when you were your boss’s staff photographer.

 

[tanstaafl72555]

I have an order in for a water tap with meter (Laurens County SC Water dept)....They require a pressure reducing valve, in a separate box, at the owner's expense.
I have the reducing valve in hand, as well as the box. What else (fittings) will I need to connect to the valve to the meter?
I only have weekends to do this kinda stuff, so I'd like to make sure that I have everything that I need....otherwise it's at least a 13 mile drive for supplies.

TIA

Fwiw a pressure reducing valve keeps the pressure from the municipality from blowing out the valves in your house, which is a good thing. They can get stuck open (or closed) and cause weird things to happen in the house with your water. Much of the answer depends on whether your line in is copper or pvc. (i dunno code in your area). Just know the diameter and composition of the in line, and the number of reducers, how you will need to fit it (I would not use a sharkbite fitting on an inlet line before the stepdown, btw... just my preference/caution), and then work backward on tape, fittings, glue or sweating materials. It is not a hard job, btw. Once you get the line dug out (next to the house is the best place to site it), it is about a 15 minute job if you know what you are doing and a max 4 hour job if you don't .

Good luck. You can PM me here if questions. I did one of these for my mother in law recently, when hers failed.