BCM front sight taper pins

[bashman]

Holy fukc! Who installs these things.
I've beat and banged on them for the better part of the past 2 days, with very little to any progress made. And yes, I'm working from the left side, pushing to the right.
Started out with a small gunsmithing hammer and punches, then moved up to the back (flat) side of a hatchet and the punches. All that accomplished was screwing up my punches.
Picked up a 2.5 pound engineers hammer and some bigger/better punches today, still nothing. Barrel and FSB resting on a Wheeler AR15 armorers block. Beating on it has chewed up and gouged the block.
I've also tried putting the upper in the freezer for a few hours. No progress.
Is it possible the pins have been flattened around the opening in the FSB?

And for the record:
1. Cutting the FSB down is not an option. I need to remove it to change the barrel nut for the rail I bought.
2. I have already purchased a low pro gas block to install once this FSB is removed.




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[chrishf12]

I bet they use a press to install them. I had a set that was extremely tight as well, but they did come out.

I would try to heat them up rather than putting them in the freezer.

 

[WadeWatts]

Found this online about the pins written by Paul from BCM. I know I beat on a BCM FSB for a while and ended up giving up after 20 minutes of beating.

“From speaking with customers, it seems BCM FSB taper pins are harder to remove than some others. When we do it here, we can knock the pins free in under 60 seconds.
Here are some basic pointers on the way we remove them.

1) It takes Two. You will need a buddy to hold the upper group stable as you pound out the pins. You will not be able to get a good concentrated force on the pins if the upper is wobbling around (even a little bit).

2) Action Jackson. You will need a couple of action blocks (see Brownells for a good selection). These will be great platforms to stabilize the barrel. Also get the Brownells FSB block. You may have to mod the shape of the FSB block if using a free float.

3) Installed from starboard side. Milspec FSB are drill and the reamed for taper pins. The reamer runs from the right to the left (pointing the muzzle at the bad guy). So BCM pins need to be removed from left to right. Cannot be done the opposite way.

4) Secure that carbine. Using action blocks and the buddy system secure the upper group so the left side is facing up.

5) Get a fat one. We do not use those small radius head punches to break the pins free. We use a much fatter punch (5/16”). It’s a meaty sucker. Lots to hang on to, and enables you to put some force on the hammer. Using a 5/16” punch and a 12oz hammer, give her a smack. Anywhere between 1 and 6 smacks, and the pin moves. All you want to do is to get it to move to about flush.

6) Grab a skinny one. Now get the tiny little 1/8” punch to push the pins out of the FSB. They are already broken free, this just drives the fully out. Tap, tap, tap.

7) Celebrate. You are done. Do the banana dance.

Hope this info helps...
Thanks!
Paul

“

 

[bashman]

Found this online about the pins. I know I beat on a BCM FSB for a while and ended up giving up after 20 minutes of beating.

[QUOTE="BCM”]From speaking with customers, it seems BCM FSB taper pins are harder to remove than some others. When we do it here, we can knock the pins free in under 60 seconds.
Here are some basic pointers on the way we remove them.

1) It takes Two. You will need a buddy to hold the upper group stable as you pound out the pins. You will not be able to get a good concentrated force on the pins if the upper is wobbling around (even a little bit).

2) Action Jackson. You will need a couple of action blocks (see Brownells for a good selection). These will be great platforms to stabilize the barrel. Also get the Brownells FSB block. You may have to mod the shape of the FSB block if using a free float.

3) Installed from starboard side. Milspec FSB are drill and the reamed for taper pins. The reamer runs from the right to the left (pointing the muzzle at the bad guy). So BCM pins need to be removed from left to right. Cannot be done the opposite way.

4) Secure that carbine. Using action blocks and the buddy system secure the upper group so the left side is facing up.

5) Get a fat one. We do not use those small radius head punches to break the pins free. We use a much fatter punch (5/16”). It’s a meaty sucker. Lots to hang on to, and enables you to put some force on the hammer. Using a 5/16” punch and a 12oz hammer, give her a smack. Anywhere between 1 and 6 smacks, and the pin moves. All you want to do is to get it to move to about flush.

6) Grab a skinny one. Now get the tiny little 1/8” punch to push the pins out of the FSB. They are already broken free, this just drives the fully out. Tap, tap, tap.

7) Celebrate. You are done. Do the banana dance.

Hope this info helps...
Thanks!
Paul

[/QUOTE]

Yeah I saw that on ARFcom. Read the entire thread. Tried all that, but still nothing.


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[JRHorne]

Good luck. I had one set I was able to easily get out. The other, not a fricken chance. If you're not worried about keeping the FSB, you can get the dremel out. Otherwise, remove the gas tube, take the barrel nut off, sell your barrel and buy a new one.