Blackout pistol: Tuck suppressor under rail or nah?

Gear Head

Gear Head

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I have an Omega in jail and am gathering parts for a blackout pistol specifically to host to the omega. I ordered a Ballistic Advantage 8.3" hanson and am torn as to whether I want to run a 7-7.5" small diameter rail or a 10" seekins mcsr and tuck the can under the rail a bit. I'm a good sized guy with pretty long arms so I'm worried the short rail will be uncomfortable for me to shoot. On the other hand, with a longer rail not only will I have to swap between direct thread and asr mounts to use on multiple rifles but I will also have to get a flash can or something to shoot it unsuppressed should I ever need/want to.

This an 8" barrel and a 7" SLR rail
8 barrel 7 slr rail.jpg

This is a 8.5" barrel and a 10" seekins mcsr rail
tucked can.jpg
 
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On my ar9 I have only 1.5” of the can sticking out, use a 3-lug mount.
 
With the Omega, if you tuck you'll be restricted to direct thread. You need access to the locking ring if you want to use the ASR mount.

I went with a short rail and a quality hand stop.
 
The ASR mount requires access to the locking collar for removal/reinstallation and that would be under the rail. The omega has interchangable mounting options so I could run it as direct thread and just screw it on/off. The only catch to that is if I want to put the omega on another gun I'd have to swap the direct thread adapter for the ASR adapter every time.
 
Tim said:
With the Omega, if you tuck you'll be restricted to direct thread. You need access to the locking ring if you want to use the ASR mount.

I went with a short rail and a quality hand stop.
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Posted at the same time lol
 
Gear Head said:
The ASR mount requires access to the locking collar for removal/reinstallation and that would be under the rail. The omega has interchangable mounting options so I could run it as direct thread and just screw it on/off. The only catch to that is if I want to put the omega on another gun I'd have to swap the direct thread adapter for the ASR adapter every time.
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Making that swap takes all of 30 seconds. I keep a small MaxPedition admin pouch with 308 and 556 end caps, direct thread mounts, ASR mount and wrench. The pouch is just big enough for the can as well. I just toss that in my range bag.
 
Yeah I know it's simple, just wasn't sure how much of an inconvenience it would be to have to constantly swap them in the field.

Was the db reduction noticeable enough to justify the price of the 556 end cap? I've already bought a 762 cap and was just planning on shooting everything through that.
 
Gear Head said:
Was the db reduction noticeable enough to justify the price of the 556 end cap? I've already bought a 762 cap and was just planning on shooting everything through that.
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Couldn't tell ya. I'm terrified of forgetting and running a .30 through the .223 end cap!
 
Yes, it looks cool, yes you can straighten your support arm more, yes it limits your options.
My 300BLK w& w/o the can being under a 15" then a 10" Seekins rail.
300BLK SBR - Copy.JPG 300 Shh-copy.jpg
 
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Can you run a 3-lug on a 300blk gun? I dont think they make one for this can, but say a Rugged Obsidian 45 on a 300 blk?
 
Gear Head said:
Was the db reduction noticeable enough to justify the price of the 556 end cap? I've already bought a 762 cap and was just planning on shooting everything through that.
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Not worth it IMHO.

If you do run want both, let me know. I have a guy in Mooresville that makes the flat caps in Ti, and can engrave the caliber on them if you want.
 
Tim said:
Making that swap takes all of 30 seconds. I keep a small MaxPedition admin pouch with 308 and 556 end caps, direct thread mounts, ASR mount and wrench. The pouch is just big enough for the can as well. I just toss that in my range bag.
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30 seconds if all goes well.

He'll have fun the first time the body of the can turns and he figures out the DT module is still attached to the barrel under that rail.
 
BigWaylon said:
Not worth it IMHO.

If you do run want both, let me know. I have a guy in Mooresville that makes the flat caps in Ti, and can engrave the caliber on them if you want.
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I was gonna say, the juice isn’t worth the squeeze with the 5.56 cap

@Gear Head the beauty of 300BLK is suppressing it. Do you see yourself shooting it without the can? I say get the longer rail and run it direct thread. My first can was a direct thread 5.56 that I used on an AR and I never had problems with it backing off. Two wraps of Teflon tape on the threads and it was rock solid. If you see it being a hassle, go with the shorter rail so you’re not swapping mounts and you can shoot it unsuppressed and have a FH/brake already in place
 
BigWaylon said:
30 seconds if all goes well.

He'll have fun the first time the body of the can turns and he figures out the DT module is still attached to the barrel under that rail.
Click to expand...

This is my biggest concern with running direct thread under the rail. Not huge deal since if I'm pulling it off that means I'm swapping to the ASR mount anyways but still an inconvenience to have to get it out to reinstall in the can. Unless I just leave it in place and screw the can back on it haha.
 
11B CIB said:
I was gonna say, the juice isn’t worth the squeeze with the 5.56 cap

@Gear Head the beauty of 300BLK is suppressing it. Do you see yourself shooting it without the can? I say get the longer rail and run it direct thread. My first can was a direct thread 5.56 that I used on an AR and I never had problems with it backing off. Two wraps of Teflon tape on the threads and it was rock solid. If you see it being a hassle, go with the shorter rail so you’re not swapping mounts and you can shoot it unsuppressed and have a FH/brake already in place
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Yeah I doubt I'll ever shoot it unsuppressed but don't want to necessarily limit it to only being capable of shooting with the can on in the case that something ever happened to the suppressor and I still needed the gun. That why I said if I went direct thread under the rail I would also have a flash can or something as a backup.
 
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Gear Head said:
Since you've done both which one do you prefer? Also how long is your barrel and what length rail in both setups?
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It's a 10' barrel, there isn't a release mechanism since it's a 7" TBAC can, the two rails are 10" & 15", I went with the 10" rail and a stop so I could still use it in an unsuppressed short version. It does look 'more gooder' with the can tucked away.
I chose to build a 223 Wylde 3G type upper with the 15" rail. Here it is w/10"rail w/o the can, the brake has been replaced with a flash hider. I want to swap the stock with a minimal stock- shorter and lighter.
300 T2 DBAL.JPG
 
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Tim said:
Couldn't tell ya. I'm terrified of forgetting and running a .30 through the .223 end cap!
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Been proven end caps don't really affect db levels especially at the shooters ear... throw the .30 cap on and let it ride!
 
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