Cerakote or Duracoat

Sp00ks

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For those of you with experience on these two products. I was thinking about building a budget AR pistol. I have an idea of what I want in my head. Do I go to the trouble of buying parts in the color I'm after or just Cera/Dura coat before assembly?I may even upgrade some parts on my Barnes rifle and use the current parts for the pistol. Anyway.....

Which is easier to work with? Which is more durable? etc. etc.

Any feedback is appreciated.
 
Agree, Djstorm100 is the person you need to talk to.

This is just my personal experience spraying both. I personally like Duracoat and Cerakote. Cerakote (traditional kind) is oven cured and gives a very tough finish that is hard to beat. Duracoat (tradinally) dosent need the oven cure, it uses solvents that dry to a fairly hard finish.

I suggest using a respirator if you spray either. I have very bad breathing issues as it is and Cerakote will put me in a world of hurt if exposed for very long while still airborne.

Both give great results and can add that "personalized" touch to whatever you choose.
 
I used the Duracoat Shake-n-Spray kit on a rifle last year. Very easy to prep and use.

I am happy with the results even if it's obviously not a factory finish. It was my first paint job, so I left it a bit thin in spots, not the product's fault at all.
 
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I used a duracoat shake and spray kit on a neighbor's rifle. Worked well but gunmed up quickly. The can says lasts four hours but it was maybe 1-1.5

I love spray paint! Cheap and easy and looks great worn
 
I have done several rifles and handguns with Duracoat (air brush applied) and been generally happy with all of them. I think the general view is Cerakote may be more durable for hard use guns. With all spray applied coating the prep is the key IMO. With Duracoat getting the hardener additive recommended ratio right is also key to a long lasting tough finish.

SIG P6 in German Gray

[IMG2=JSON]{"data-align":"none","data-size":"full","src":"http:\/\/i6.photobucket.com\/albums\/y217\/jimcope\/SIG%20SAUER%20P6\/d64738f4-1f13-4d1d-a34c-1d482435e5de_zpsak65mimi.jpg"}[/IMG2]
 
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Tim;n6680 said:
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How much use (or abuse) has that finish seen? I know you said a year, but just curious... I've looked at the Duracoat stuff before but every time I read up on it, it seems to pale in comparison to Cerakote for durability.
 
Sp00ks;n6562 said:
For those of you with experience on these two products. I was thinking about building a budget AR pistol. I have an idea of what I want in my head. Do I go to the trouble of buying parts in the color I'm after or just Cera/Dura coat before assembly?I may even upgrade some parts on my Barnes rifle and use the current parts for the pistol. Anyway.....

Which is easier to work with? Which is more durable? etc. etc.

Any feedback is appreciated.

If you buy you parts already coated they will be different shades of the color. This is because lots of paint (like bullets, powder, primers) have small batch changes. So the best course of action is to get all the parts and then coat them. Cerakote hold ups better but like anything it will wear with use (pistol is a holster for example). The goal is to spray with cerakote, a layer no more than 0.002 thick (human hair thickness). With that being said I typically tape up inner diameter holes (safety, trigger pins, mag release, etc)
 
Djstorm100;n7116 said:
If you buy you parts already coated they will be different shades of the color. This is because lots of paint (like bullets, powder, primers) have small batch changes. So the best course of action is to get all the parts and then coat them. Cerakote hold ups better but like anything it will wear with use (pistol is a holster for example). The goal is to spray with cerakote, a layer no more than 0.002 thick (human hair thickness). With that being said I typically tape up inner diameter holes (safety, trigger pins, mag release, etc)

Do you use the ubiquitous 3M blue painters tape or something more specific?
 
Between the two listed, I'd go with cerakote. Although my budget builds usually get the krylon rattle can treatment.
 
WeepingAngel;n7126 said:
Do you use the ubiquitous 3M blue painters tape or something more specific?

high temp tape that withstand the curing process of 250 degrees.
 
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Djstorm100;n7172 said:
high temp paint that withstand the curing process of 250 degrees.

I'm not sure I understand your answer; perhaps I didn't phrase the question clearly.... what kind of tape do you use to mask off parts you don't want to paint/coat?
 
pirate;n6791 said:
I have done several rifles and handguns with Duracoat (air brush applied) and been generally happy with all of them. I think the general view is Cerakote may be more durable for hard use guns. With all spray applied coating the prep is the key IMO. With Duracoat getting the hardener additive recommended ratio right is also key to a long lasting tough finish.

SIG P6 in German Gray

[IMG2=JSON]{"data-align":"none","data-size":"full","src":"http:\/\/i6.photobucket.com\/albums\/y217\/jimcope\/SIG%20SAUER%20P6\/d64738f4-1f13-4d1d-a34c-1d482435e5de_zpsak65mimi.jpg"}[/IMG2]

There you go, making me drool again.
 
WeepingAngel;n7177 said:
I'm not sure I understand your answer; perhaps I didn't phrase the question clearly.... what kind of tape do you use to mask off parts you don't want to paint/coat?

sorry mean tape not paint.

High temp tape. 3M makes several, I grab whatever is the cheapest.
 
Djstorm100 said:
WeepingAngel;n7177 said:
I'm not sure I understand your answer; perhaps I didn't phrase the question clearly.... what kind of tape do you use to mask off parts you don't want to paint/coat?

sorry mean tape not paint.

High temp tape. 3M makes several, I grab whatever is the cheapest.
Thanks!
 
WeepingAngel said:
Tim;n6680 said:
[IMG2=JSON]{"data-align":"none","data-size":"full","src":"http:\/\/i676.photobucket.com\/albums\/vv128\/WNCSeabee\/Firearms\/BA2AD832-EDBB-445E-82A9-AB99FD2A359F_zpsmuuysfdx.jpg"}[/IMG2]

How much use (or abuse) has that finish seen? I know you said a year, but just curious... I've looked at the Duracoat stuff before but every time I read up on it, it seems to pale in comparison to Cerakote for durability.
Monthly 3 Gun matches. It is definitely worn in places.
 
Tim pirate Nice job gentlemen, good looking weapons.

I am not beyond a rattle can paint job. it sounds like Duracoat is going to be a little easier since it's not heat activated. I'll likely purchase an airbrush or similar. I have a couple paint sprayers but seems overkill.

I almost bought my lower at the gun show today but CoverSixTacticle took most of my money again.... :) Love you guys.
 
I like Norrel's Moly Resin best for bake on coatings. It has held up better than cerakote or durakote. Never used any o the air dry stuff. For an AR though, I'd just about say rattle can. Unless you're building a safe queen it will get beat up. Easy and cheap to touch up spraypaint. Also, it's easy to strip it off if you tire of it...
 
bigfelipe;n7543 said:
I like Norrel's Moly Resin best for bake on coatings. It has held up better than cerakote or durakote. Never used any o the air dry stuff. For an AR though, I'd just about say rattle can. Unless you're building a safe queen it will get beat up. Easy and cheap to touch up spraypaint. Also, it's easy to strip it off if you tire of it...

I have rifles done in all three finishes. The moly resin seems to hold up the best and it seems to have a libricating property that the other 2 dont have. The color selection is a bit more limited but moly resin is a great finish.
 
DrDover;n7683 said:
I have rifles done in all three finishes. The moly resin seems to hold up the best and it seems to have a libricating property that the other 2 dont have. The color selection is a bit more limited but moly resin is a great finish.

Agreed. It takes oil well. You can also manipulate the finish easier from flat to glossy by heating your parts before you spray. Doesn't work with the others IME... As to colors, you can mix it to custom and there are primary colors available, but like all finishes the lighter the color the weaker the coating is...
 
Question: how easy is it to screw
something up with rattlecan Duracoat? Lauer swears its brain dead easy to apply, soaks in, self levels, etc. but I'm still hesitant to put it on a valuable chunk of parkerized steel.
 
I’ve never used duracote but I have used gunkote and cerakote on a 1911. After one mag with gunkote the ejection port was chipped. After two mags with cerakote, it wasn’t. I can’t say after that since I sold it.
 
I prefer duracoat as it is easier to apply and a lot less finicky. Like DJ said if you spray cerakote it needs to be very thin. If you get cerakote to thick which is easy to do it will chip. Duracoat is just easier for non professionals to get right, spraying through a airbrush works much better than there rattlecan version.
 
I prefer duracoat as it is easier to apply and a lot less finicky. Like DJ said if you spray cerakote it needs to be very thin. If you get cerakote to thick which is easy to do it will chip. Duracoat is just easier for non professionals to get right, spraying through a airbrush works much better than there rattlecan version.

Any recommendation on air brush? This might be the next project for my beater 1911.
 
Any recommendation on air brush? This might be the next project for my beater 1911.
Harbour freight sells a set for about 20 bucks that works very well. I would buy a larger 3oz bottle and an extension hose.
https://www.harborfreight.com/34-oz-deluxe-airbrush-kit-69492.html
https://www.harborfreight.com/14-in-x-10-ft-Braided-Nylon-Airbrush-Hose-69578.html
They also have this but I have not tried it.
https://www.harborfreight.com/adjustable-detail-spray-gun-92126.html
 
I just read a out Wheeler's cerama-coat. I may try that out.
 
I just read a out Wheeler's cerama-coat. I may try that out.
I used it once on a Ithica 37 shotgun and it turned out all right. I sold the gun a few months later so I can not attest to it's durability though. I did media blast it before coating though.
 
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