Debating a reflex optic for G19...many questions

11B CIB

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I’ve been debating getting a reflex sight for my Glock 19 (Gen 3). Primarily for range and suppressed shooting but would also be my daily carry.

I would need to have the slide milled or buy a new slide.

For the milling, online I’ve seen places like Battlewerks offering this service ($75 for the cut, $60 for either nitriding or cerakote, another $35 for a cover, etc). If there’s a better option thats reasonably priced for the service, I’m all for


OR

Brownells has a RMR slide for a Gen 3 G19 for $169.99 and $79.99 for the parts kit to build it out (~$250 total. But that pigeon holes me into an RMR which leads me to the next two questions:

With the adjustable LED RMR, which would be ideal, the 3.25 MOA or the 6.5 MOA dot?

I see there is a non adjustable RMR but I wonder if the self adjustment feature would leave me wanting. Also, the dual illum. RMR seems better suited on rifle mainly due to reticle choice but I may be wrong...I’d consider it with the 7 MOA dot if so.


Is there an alternative around the same $400 price point that’s worth considering?


Leupold Delta Point Pro 2.5 MOA or 7 MOA
Sig Romeo1 Reflex 3 MOA
Holosun 507C 2MOA dot and 32MOA ring (uses RMR mounting systems)

The following are somewhat cheaper so I’m curious if they’re in the same league and even worth considering:
Vortex Venom or Viper (3 MOA or 6 MOA), both around $200 on Amazon
Burris FF3 3 MOA or 8 MOA (Currently $230 at Optics Planet, normally about $290 so I worry about durability etc)
Others I’ve left out?

The SRO and the ACRO are both more than I was wanting to pay


Thanks a bunch and I hope to learn from yalls experience since this is one thing I haven’t really done yet gun related
 
I can't help you with the slide stuff, but.....

1) Dot size. On a handgun bigger is better. You want to be able to acquire that dot/sight picture easily. You're not going for precision shooting here so bigger=better.

2) Rugged, Rugged, Rugged. I have a couple vortex dots on competition guns, but I wouldn't put them on a carry gun/slide mounted. I'd go with Trijicon here or Leupold as a second choice.

3) RMR types... I currently have three and have had two others. All of mine now are dual illuminated, which I like, but I may be the odd man out there. Many people complain about the reticles being dimmer. I see that as a feature, not a bug as it doesn't (for me) obscure the target like a blooming red dot does (I have an astigmatism).

When it comes to the adjustable, vs. the auto-adjust (had one of each). I hated the auto-adjust in low light. I had one on a .300 BLK pistol and it prevented me from getting a shot at a nice doe one evening at dusk. I could see the deer clearly, I could see my dot clearly. But when I put the dot over the deer I couldn't see her anymore. It was just too bright to be able to see the target/take the shot. I'd hate to have that on a pistol in a fight....

My random thoughts. Hope it helps a bit.
 
I can't help you with the slide stuff, but.....

1) Dot size. On a handgun bigger is better. You want to be able to acquire that dot/sight picture easily. You're not going for precision shooting here so bigger=better.

2) Rugged, Rugged, Rugged. I have a couple vortex dots on competition guns, but I wouldn't put them on a carry gun/slide mounted. I'd go with Trijicon here or Leupold as a second choice.

3) RMR types... I currently have three and have had two others. All of mine now are dual illuminated, which I like, but I may be the odd man out there. Many people complain about the reticles being dimmer. I see that as a feature, not a bug as it doesn't (for me) obscure the target like a blooming red dot does (I have an astigmatism).

When it comes to the adjustable, vs. the auto-adjust (had one of each). I hated the auto-adjust in low light. I had one on a .300 BLK pistol and it prevented me from getting a shot at a nice doe one evening at dusk. I could see the deer clearly, I could see my dot clearly. But when I put the dot over the deer I couldn't see her anymore. It was just too bright to be able to see the target/take the shot. I'd hate to have that on a pistol in a fight....

My random thoughts. Hope it helps a bit.

Absolutely. I figured the non adjustable was going to be off the list. I like the idea of dual illum (like the ACOGs themselves). Worst case scenario if I went that route with the RMR and didn't like it on my Glock, I could piggy back it on my TA11

Thanks!
 
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@11B CIB I have and love my RMR RM06 adjustable 3.25 MOA. Its rugged and is very accurate. Ive had it on a P320 I had milled by DP custom works out of Monroe. His work was just fine. I currently have it on a G45 that @ncengravers.com milled and coated for me. His work is very nice and he's a forum guy! I don't thin you can go wrong with either one. I've not ever wished I had a bigger dot because I've never shot one. The biggest hurdle with a rds is acquiring the muscle memory to make sure the dot is there every time you press out. Sage dynamics has a great class on it and many videos on YT. I will say that at first I wasn't sold on the dot but once I figured out how to acquire the dot every time I love it and will have one from now on!
 
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I went with the 3.25 moa adjustable Trijicon RMR on my G19, and love it!
I also have a Sig with the Romeo, the larger window helps pickup the dot faster, but it's not as rugged as the RMR.
They both have helped shrink my groups.
 
Here is my take on it. This is strictly from a service point of view.

Some optics don’t install the greatest depending on your setup.

If you plan to keep your rear iron in the factory location then the vortex/Burris/viper/leupold are all out. They will hit the plunger hole and to some this means nothing but to others it means a chance for the plunger spring someday to become mangled and not function.

If you plan to cut the optic to the rear and mount a front of optic iron sight the leupold delta is out because it requires a gl-808 sight to clear the optic for cowitness.

If you plan to remove the rear iron dovetail from the slide the shield RMSc or Rmsw/ leupold would be your best options because they have rear iron on the optic or an option to install one.

The commonly requested setup is the rmr cut in front of the rear dovetail allowing the owner to use a holosun or Trijicon.

My personal weapons are cut for a Trijicon/holosun and Romeo 1 so I have some options.

If you want to see these setups we will have several pistols in different configurations at the Greensboro show
 
I wouldn’t rule out the 1 moa version rmr. I have an astigmatism and honestly the dot blooms a bit unless I turn it down until I can barely see it. Not bad for accuracy but I wouldn’t carry it that way. I’ve had the 6.5, 3.25, and the 1 moa and prefer the smallest personally. I also like the adjustable version hands down.

Good luck buddy, hope you find what you’re looking for. Once you have oneit’s hard to go back.

Edited to add- @ncengravers.com cut and colored my slide. I’d definitely give him a look before making your decision.
 
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Regarding auto brightness vs manually adjustable RMR’s. The type 2 RMR’s can be switched to either mode. I have the 6.5 on my carry pistol and am quite pleased.

Lots of dry fire practice will build
The muscle memory required to get on the dot consistently.

I’m not any faster with the dot(yet), but the greatest advantage for me is that I am now only focusing on the target. One focal plane is a lot easier for my older eyes and brain to deal with.

Best of luck to you!
 
Wouldn’t selling the H19 and buying a G19MOS be the least expensive, and give you the most options?
@ncengravers.com is there a different plunger/spring on the MOS version to prevent the open hole?
 
Wouldn’t selling the H19 and buying a G19MOS be the least expensive, and give you the most options?
@ncengravers.com is there a different plunger/spring on the MOS version to prevent the open hole?
The mos version has the rear iron moved slightly back farther. So when glock manufactured the slides to take plates the plates don’t hit the plunger hole. Because everything has been moved to the rear.
 
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The mos version has the rear iron moved slightly back farther. So when glock manufactured the slides to take plates the plates don’t hit the plunger hole. Because everything has been moved to the rear.
That makes sense. Any suggestion on best way to remove, and replacement plate screws? I turned a wrench for 36 years and that’s the only torx screw I’ve ever seen strip out. Snugged it up lightly with a proper sized SnapOn bit :mad:
 
That makes sense. Any suggestion on best way to remove, and replacement plate screws? I turned a wrench for 36 years and that’s the only torx screw I’ve ever seen strip out. Snugged it up lightly with a proper sized SnapOn bit :mad:
I use my laser to cut a new Allen head and remove. I would try cutting a straight slot in it and then using a flat head.
 
Wouldn’t selling the H19 and buying a G19MOS be the least expensive, and give you the most options?
@ncengravers.com is there a different plunger/spring on the MOS version to prevent the open hole?

Honestly it would come down to who’s doing the work and their charges versus how much I could get for an unfired Gen 3 G19 compared to a Gen 4 G19 MOS (going for around $590ish)

@ncengravers.com glad you chimed in...I thought someone on the forum could do the work and I would rather support “local”

I’ve got to figure out the dilemma above before I proceed but an RMR is where I’m headed
 
Honestly it would come down to who’s doing the work and their charges versus how much I could get for an unfired Gen 3 G19 compared to a Gen 4 G19 MOS (going for around $590ish)
Glock's MOS comes with several adapter plates so you're not restricted to one brand of dot.
 
IMO the mos leads to several problems. 1 tolerance stacking 2 it’s not as secure of a mount as a milled slide. Also I think a milled slide lets the optic sit a bit lower than the mos ( this is not scientific just from how it looks to me. )


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
IMO the mos leads to several problems. 1 tolerance stacking 2 it’s not as secure of a mount as a milled slide. Also I think a milled slide lets the optic sit a bit lower than the mos ( this is not scientific just from how it looks to me. )


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

At this point I am leaning towards slide milling. I like my Gen 3s :D
 
My experiences, if it helps:
My carry gun is a G22 with a Delta Point Pro 7.5MOA triangle, milled in a factory slide by Maple Leaf Firearms, with the rear sight in front of the DPP. (I had two slides stolen out of the mail, they had slides and do milling, he cut me a deal for both).

I also have a G17 with an RM06 mounted in a Brownells slide, 6 or 6.5 MOA. (Retirement Gift). It’s auto adjust and manual adjust, I think. I haven’t had to mess with it at all except to zero it, so I’m not sure how that whole thing works. I do know that it works just fine in the bright sunlight, or in the dark. Then again, my DP Pro is set at one brightness and works fine in both circumstances as well.

I prefer the Delta Point. Not by a lot, but by enough of a margin. The triangle makes it easy to zero the apex/tip at 15 yards and the bottom is pretty much dead on at 100 (as much as I am on or off at 100). The RMR is slightly slower for me to pick up, the sight picture is slightly more crowded, and the DPPro just seems more...right.

I don’t know if that helps you at all, hopefully so. This is just MY limited experience.
 
Primary Arms has the dual illuminated RMRs on sale right now. Got an email today.
 
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