DIY Jeep Hardtop Hoist

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Been thinking of a way to rig up a one man hardtop removal system in my garage. Been looking on the internet and have seen a myriad of contraptions and stuff. I knew there had to be a better way. So while lying in bed last night, these three images came to mind. So I went to Northern Tools today and picked up a little electric hoist for $89.00.

My garage door opener outlet is only about six feet away. The I-beam in my garage is in the perfect location and my wife will be able to park her car underneath the top.

I'm going to install two stainless or black rubber coated footman loops on my hardtop towards the rear since the top has an aft cg.

I'll post some more pics when I get it all done.

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ooohhh...electric hoist. Mine is a simple man-powered 4-part block hoist.

Looking forward to seeing your setup!
 
ooohhh...electric hoist. Mine is a simple man-powered 4-part block hoist.

Looking forward to seeing your setup!

I was wondering if you had come up with something. I'll post some pics when I get it set up. I haven't picked up the loops for the top yet. I'm also going to put two strips of 1/8" steel on the inside of the roof for reinforcement where the loop bolts will be.
 
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I can't remember exactly how I had mine set up, but it was a similar electric winch from HF. I had five eye bolts in the ceiling, one in each corner and one for the lift to feed through.

We had two TJs, both with hard tops. Used 2x4s with eye bolts on the end. Removed bolts holding top to tub, slid 2x4s under the edges of top, and raised it up. Left it suspended with ratchet straps to the four eye bolts, then moved over to the other top.
 
I can't remember exactly how I had mine set up, but it was a similar electric winch from HF. I had five eye bolts in the ceiling, one in each corner and one for the lift to feed through.

We had two TJs, both with hard tops. Used 2x4s with eye bolts on the end. Removed bolts holding top to tub, slid 2x4s under the edges of top, and raised it up. Left it suspended with ratchet straps to the four eye bolts, then moved over to the other top.

I'm not sure how I'm going to rig this up yet. I may just utilize a couple of 2x4's like you mentioned. Having this big I-beam makes things easier though.
 
I'm not sure how I'm going to rig this up yet. I may just utilize a couple of 2x4's like you mentioned. Having this big I-beam makes things easier though.
When I get back in town, I can look to see if I have any pics saved. Those hard tops are long gone.
 
I got the hoist up earlier. Should work out great. Just need to get a short extension cord for it and run it under the light tubes to the garage door opener outlet on the ceiling.

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I started out using the two 2x4 idea, but then realized the front 2x would be trapped under the roll bar when I started to lift the top. I still raise the back of the top and set it on a 2x to allow room to put a 5/16" x 1 1/2" carriage bolt (head down) thru the back bolt hole. That bolt gets a nut to keep it from twisting in the bolt hole when lifting the top.

I made two longer straps for the rear of the top out of an old boat tie down strap I had here. Nice and wide with heavy hooks on each end. Put a grommet in the ends opposite the hooks. The hooks attach to a 200# carabiner which is attached to the bottom of the traveling block. The lower end of each strap routes down the side of the top, thru the gap between the top and tub, then the grommet slips over the bolt. A fender washer and wing nut hold the strap in place.

Adjustable straps for the front were also a couple that I had here. Upper hooks go into the carabiner, lower hooks (padded with clear tubing) go in the notches in the front lip of the top.

I made the front straps adjustable so I could raise the top in a front-down position. That allows re-aligning the front locating pins when reinstalling the top while setting the top back on the 2x to unbolt the rear straps.

One person can easily remove and replace the top with this lift. The four-part means the pull on the rope is 1/4 of the total weight of the top + system friction...around 30 pounds total.

Thinking more about this, I'm glad I haven't installed an electric hoist yet because I always forget to disconnect the rear wiper cable and washer spray tube. If I had a winch, I'd probably have pulled those out of the top by now.

I'll add pictures to this post the next time I pull the top.
 
I bought a kit from JCWhityney?? a few years back. It came with a come a long, 2 eye bolts, and an adjustable metal frame with padded hooks. I think............. I paid $130 for it. It's been 10+ years ago. I've seen similar with nylon webbing instead of the metal frame.
 
I just checked the cg of my top using a jack and a block of wood. Now that I know where the cg is, I marked it with a pencil, I now know where and what to install so my hoist can do it's job, with little effort, and with minimal risk of the load of the top's weight deforming it's shape or failing completely.

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Well, my plans worked out perfectly..... except for the dang hoist. The motor is bad.:mad:After installing the loop in the roof with a 2x4 inside for support, I backed the Jeep in and when the spare tire barely touches my steel cabinets, it is perfectly under the hook. All I have to do is open the rear window enough to get the tailgate closed. I raised the roof off the Jeep and it hung there perfectly level.

I raised it all the way up and heard a strange grinding sound from the hoist motor. Lowered it down to the floor so I could get the top back on if I needed to in case the hoist quit working. It quit working. Other than the hoist problem, this setup is perfect.

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My son and I scooted the top back in the bottom pic so I could get my Jeep back in the garage.
 
Replaced the hoist and now I'm in business. I need to turn the eye bolt on the roof a little to get it to hang straight, but other than that it's perfect.


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Actually, it hanging slightly sideways doesn't matter. I just backed my Jeep in and it aligned itself with the roll bar as I backed up.

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That beam couldn't have been in a more perfect location. It was even just the right height.
 
Had a hard top on my 93 YJ. I'll never buy another wrangler with a hardtop. My 2010 Rubicon only had the soft top. Better for waking up the neighborhood cranking Foreigner or Boston via the upgraded sound system and subwoofer too :D
 
So the 2x4 has to stay in the jeep permanently?

Yes. I highly doubt anyone would ever notice it. It's behind the soundbar over the cargo area. I rarely ever have anyone ride in the back seat and it stays folded up most of the time. I can't even see the 2x4 when I look in the rear view mirror. I just drilled a hole in the roof and 2x4. The hole is the exact same size as the eye bolt. So I had to screw it through the roof and through the 2x4 before I installed the washer and nut on the inside. It's a very tight fit to minimize leaks. Of course, I put a good bead of black silicone rubber sealant on both sides of the outer washer and eye bolt as well.
 
That beam couldn't have been in a more perfect location. It was even just the right height.

Terry,

Neil and I can't get over how perfect this worked out. For the center of gravity of the top to be in the exact spot it needed to be in order for the spare tire to just barely touch my cabinets so the eye bolt is perfectly under the hoist hook, I find amazing. I put the top on this morning and it was a flawless operation. I'm driving around in a Jeep with a black eye bolt sticking out of the roof but it's not very noticeable. I guess I could change my avatar to this::D


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Terry,

Neil and I can't get over how perfect this worked out. For the center of gravity of the top to be in the exact spot it needed to be in order for the spare tire to just barely touch my cabinets so the eye bolt is perfectly under the hoist hook, I find amazing. I put the top on this morning and it was a flawless operation. I'm driving around in a Jeep with a black eye bolt sticking out of the roof but it's not very noticeable. I guess I could change my avatar to this::D


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LOL...at least it isn't purple.
 
Being that the top is strand composite I bet you could get away with a peice of .187 mild steel Like 3" by 3" and you should wet seal it in with the eye bolt with prc sealant like they use on aircraft

I wouldn't trust silicone to keep water out of the composite. One water gets in it wil start to delaminate and cause a bigger issue


Thanks for the advice Don.
 
Had a hard top on my 93 YJ. I'll never buy another wrangler with a hardtop. My 2010 Rubicon only had the soft top. Better for waking up the neighborhood cranking Foreigner or Boston via the upgraded sound system and subwoofer too :D

I have the radio on in my garage and Juke Box Hero was just playing. I immediately thought of your post, so I had to come back here and post this.:D
 
Be sure your eye bolt on the outside is coated well with paint. I could see it making a nasty rust stain if it starts rusting which they usually do quickly. Been there when I had one mounted in a tool box on a trailer.
 
Be sure your eye bolt on the outside is coated well with paint. I could see it making a nasty rust stain if it starts rusting which they usually do quickly. Been there when I had one mounted in a tool box on a trailer.


Good point. I put four coats of Rustoleum on it before I installed it. Plus it's hot dipped galvanized so I should be good to go. Thanks.
 
The harnesses that are made specifically for winching up hard tops have 4 point hooks that grab the lower edge of the hard top.
I used to garb my brother to help me take the hard top off for the summer. When we moved to NC, the hard top stay on the stand I made until I sold it to a college kid.
 
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