I'm thinking about getting into reloading as a hobby. I would start out primarily reloading 3006 for the M1 Garand. Due to the extra precautions that need to be considered for M1 Garand reloading, I have some questions I would like to ask of anyone who does so. I just want to make sure I've done sufficient research before plunking down money for reloading equipment. Anyone with experience reply to the thread and I'll post the questions - Thanks!
Does anyone reload 3006 for the M1 Garand?
- Thread starter railsplitter
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I am not aware of any special equipment needed for the Garand. You will need a good strong single stage press to resize 30.06 cases-- I use a Rockchucker, but there are a number of good ones out there. You will be trimming cases, so do some research on case trimmers and get the best one you can afford. Stay away from the slowest powders and the heaviest bullets. I use 50 grains of 4064, but 4895 is also a good choice. I use the 147 gr FMJ M-14 bullet because they are inexpensive and have shot well in both of the M 1's I have owned, but there are others 150 to 168 grains that will work fine. I use the recommended CCI #34 primer, but used Federal 210M's for many years before I ever heard of the special primers and loaded and shot well over 1,000 rounds without an issue. I also loaded and shot a moderate charge of 4350 for many years without an issue before I was told that would result in a ruined rifle if not death. It is a robust and rugged rifle and not nearly as delicate as some would lead you to believe.
I reload for one. My loads pretty much duplicate military ball in both bullet mass and powder burn rate. Unlike a bolt gun, the M1 is a gas based operating system and if you start chasing the outer reaches of possible power in a 3006, you'll start breaking things, yes, even on an M1. I use small base dies and military brass. As long as you load at sane levels the gun was designed for, there's no issues.
Combat Diver
Well-Known Member
Use full length sizing dies and load to proper pressure. Most reloading manuals have a section just for the M1. I used to use IMR 4895/H4895 for proper pressure curve. However, you could spend another $40ish on the Schuster Adjustable Gas Plug. That way you could shoot any ammo without worrying about pressure curve and damaging your op rod.
https://www.midwayusa.com/product/1...s-plug-with-wrench-m1-garand-steel-parkerized
https://www.brownells.com/rifle-par...dware/ma-adjustable-gas-system-prod20456.aspx
CD
https://www.midwayusa.com/product/1...s-plug-with-wrench-m1-garand-steel-parkerized
https://www.brownells.com/rifle-par...dware/ma-adjustable-gas-system-prod20456.aspx
CD
OP
@two77 @Dave951 @JimP42 @Combat Diver
Thanks for the replies. From my research I decided (should I take the plunge into reloading) to go with the following load:
150 gr FMJBT bullet with cannelure
Military brass (HXP, LC, etc.)
47.0 to 47.5 grains of IMR4895
Either CCI34, CCI200, or WLR primers
My questions are:
1) Do you add an extra step of crimping the case neck into the bullet cannelure (like say, with a Lee Factory Crimp Die)? Some say you should do this for all semi-autos, others say it isn't necessary.
2) I read somewhere that you're supposed to adjust (lower) the charge if using the CCI34 primers because they are considered a magnum primer - is there anything to this?
3) Can RCBS and Lee dies be used on a Hornady Lock N Load press?
4) Where do you get your primers and powder? It's cheaper to buy in store to avoid Hazmat fees, but there's not anything local to me to get them. Are Bass Pro Shop (Concord, NC) and Cabela's (Fort Mill, SC) my best bet?
Thanks in advance for any help.
Thanks for the replies. From my research I decided (should I take the plunge into reloading) to go with the following load:
150 gr FMJBT bullet with cannelure
Military brass (HXP, LC, etc.)
47.0 to 47.5 grains of IMR4895
Either CCI34, CCI200, or WLR primers
My questions are:
1) Do you add an extra step of crimping the case neck into the bullet cannelure (like say, with a Lee Factory Crimp Die)? Some say you should do this for all semi-autos, others say it isn't necessary.
2) I read somewhere that you're supposed to adjust (lower) the charge if using the CCI34 primers because they are considered a magnum primer - is there anything to this?
3) Can RCBS and Lee dies be used on a Hornady Lock N Load press?
4) Where do you get your primers and powder? It's cheaper to buy in store to avoid Hazmat fees, but there's not anything local to me to get them. Are Bass Pro Shop (Concord, NC) and Cabela's (Fort Mill, SC) my best bet?
Thanks in advance for any help.
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1) yes
2) very good idea when starting out with load development
3) yes 7/8-14 threaded dies will work in any 7/8-14 press for the most part
4) Depends on where you are. My definition of really decent gun store includes reloading supplies. If you going down to CLT, there are several places that sell supplies other than BP. Do some internet research, call shops closest and ask if they carry reloadind components.
2) very good idea when starting out with load development
3) yes 7/8-14 threaded dies will work in any 7/8-14 press for the most part
4) Depends on where you are. My definition of really decent gun store includes reloading supplies. If you going down to CLT, there are several places that sell supplies other than BP. Do some internet research, call shops closest and ask if they carry reloadind components.
1) No
2) Not especially as you want to start with a load near the bottom of the range and only work up to about the middle. I would more likely start lower because of the military brass. I prefer the commercial stuff.
3) Yes
4) Gun shows
2) Not especially as you want to start with a load near the bottom of the range and only work up to about the middle. I would more likely start lower because of the military brass. I prefer the commercial stuff.
3) Yes
4) Gun shows
Hey Rail,
From some of your questions, I would NOT recommend starting with 30-06 to learn reloading on. I'm relatively new to reloading, took the NRA class on reloading (Pistol), loaded thousands of rounds for my 9mm and figured the move to rifle would be incremental.
It was like starting over- rifle reloading is an order of magnitude more complex- and the pressures are much higher. The tooling and processes are much more significatnt. Especially since you're dealing with a vintage gun, I'd start with something easier before moving to high power.
I'm enjoying the heck out of reloading (the rabbit hole is deep!), but it's not as easy as I thought it would be.
From some of your questions, I would NOT recommend starting with 30-06 to learn reloading on. I'm relatively new to reloading, took the NRA class on reloading (Pistol), loaded thousands of rounds for my 9mm and figured the move to rifle would be incremental.
It was like starting over- rifle reloading is an order of magnitude more complex- and the pressures are much higher. The tooling and processes are much more significatnt. Especially since you're dealing with a vintage gun, I'd start with something easier before moving to high power.
I'm enjoying the heck out of reloading (the rabbit hole is deep!), but it's not as easy as I thought it would be.
I will load for mine, have the brass prepped and sitting in a tray now, just isn't a priority.
As others said many manuals have service rifle/M1 specific 30-06 loads, also the CMP reloading forum has a lot of info.
1) Don't plan on crimping
2) With the moderate increase in energy combined with Garand loads wouldn't worry about "magnum" primers, also possible some of the data you find will use 34s
3) You have to just about try to find non-standard thread dies, you will need bushings for a LnL or turn your dies out of them every time which is a hassle. If you are talking LnL AP the progressive press I might suggest otherwise, the speed gains aren't really that great when you have to lube, size then trim/chamfer/deburr. It can be done, but I don't bother unless I'm doing a big batch of rifle and I still size them on the single stage.
4) I prefer to support local, but I will buy online or from a box store if it's something odd I want or saving a significant amount. Can't help with CLT.
I learned handloading by loading rifle. Loading ammo deserves respect and attention, but it is pretty easy.
As others said many manuals have service rifle/M1 specific 30-06 loads, also the CMP reloading forum has a lot of info.
1) Don't plan on crimping
2) With the moderate increase in energy combined with Garand loads wouldn't worry about "magnum" primers, also possible some of the data you find will use 34s
3) You have to just about try to find non-standard thread dies, you will need bushings for a LnL or turn your dies out of them every time which is a hassle. If you are talking LnL AP the progressive press I might suggest otherwise, the speed gains aren't really that great when you have to lube, size then trim/chamfer/deburr. It can be done, but I don't bother unless I'm doing a big batch of rifle and I still size them on the single stage.
4) I prefer to support local, but I will buy online or from a box store if it's something odd I want or saving a significant amount. Can't help with CLT.
I learned handloading by loading rifle. Loading ammo deserves respect and attention, but it is pretty easy.
Have not loaded 30-06 (yet) so I can't help there, but I will comment on where to buy supplies. Check to see if there is a good store near you, otherwise go to the local gun shows. There is a company near Mooresville called Blue Collar Reloading, but they don't have a storefront. I know they have gone to the gun show in Charlotte, and I usually buy from them when they are here in Raleigh. Great prices and selections on primers and powder. Buying local or at the gun shows saves on hazmat fees.
ON EDIT: I just saw where there is a show in Concord this weekend, and Cover Six Tactical will be there. They usually have good prices and selection as well.
ON EDIT: I just saw where there is a show in Concord this weekend, and Cover Six Tactical will be there. They usually have good prices and selection as well.
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I shoot 50 grains of IMR 4064 behind a 150 grain bullet. Moderate charges of 4350 may be fine, but I did have some unwanted excitement with a heavy load of 4350 one time.
I’ve loaded and shot thousands of Garand rounds, and shoot 5-10 matches a year with the Garand out to 500 yards.
My opinions:
Don’t crimp the bullet.
The two main Garand powders are 4064 and 4895. Varget works, too, but not worth the premium price. I use 4064.
Start in the 45-46 grain neighborhood and work up towards 47-48 grn.
I’ve never had, nor seen, a slam fire with regular primers. I’ve used nothing but standard CCI and Win LR primers.
The various 168grn bullets have always been more accurate for me than the 150-155 grn bullets. Worst accuracy was from the 147FMJs.
Full length sizing works great for me. I never found a need for small base sizing.
Google and Check out master po’s temple for M1 load info.
My opinions:
Don’t crimp the bullet.
The two main Garand powders are 4064 and 4895. Varget works, too, but not worth the premium price. I use 4064.
Start in the 45-46 grain neighborhood and work up towards 47-48 grn.
I’ve never had, nor seen, a slam fire with regular primers. I’ve used nothing but standard CCI and Win LR primers.
The various 168grn bullets have always been more accurate for me than the 150-155 grn bullets. Worst accuracy was from the 147FMJs.
Full length sizing works great for me. I never found a need for small base sizing.
Google and Check out master po’s temple for M1 load info.
Completely disagree. Rifle reloading may be more work, but pistol reloading is more dangerous. You CANNOT double charge a .30-06 case, it would overflow. You can easily double charge (or triple or more) pistol cartridges without it being readily apparent until your gun blows up.
I thought pistol reloading was more difficult as well. Getting the bell the right size (not too much or too little, then the taper crimp sonit doesn’t eat the bullet and the seating depth and crimp all in the same go (til I got tired of it and started doing it in separate steps). I don’t see how Rifle loading is orders of magnitude more complex. And a big plus 1 to the double or triple charging. Just not possible in a rifle under normal load circumstances
Well, in my reloading class (NRA), they taught on pistol... I assume because it was easier. In my list of steps to prepare my rifle brass versus pistol, it's twice as long. Look at the stickied thread in this section which is dedicated to rifle brass prep.
If you're saying reloading can be dangerous, sure- you can double load pistol, squib anything, use the wrong powder with anything, etc. I'm pretty sure there a warnings on every piece of equipment or component near my reloading bench. I recommend not starting off with rifle, esp with a vintage gun that he can blow up (and hard to replace). And don't rifles blow up in your face? My loads in pistol top out at 5 grains. Mine in rifle are up to 50 (that's an order of magnitude more boom). If I were to pick something to reload first it certainly wouldn't be 30-06. If you do say it's better to start there than say.. 9mm, you are far more competent than I am.
If you're saying reloading can be dangerous, sure- you can double load pistol, squib anything, use the wrong powder with anything, etc. I'm pretty sure there a warnings on every piece of equipment or component near my reloading bench. I recommend not starting off with rifle, esp with a vintage gun that he can blow up (and hard to replace). And don't rifles blow up in your face? My loads in pistol top out at 5 grains. Mine in rifle are up to 50 (that's an order of magnitude more boom). If I were to pick something to reload first it certainly wouldn't be 30-06. If you do say it's better to start there than say.. 9mm, you are far more competent than I am.
To use your example, the pistol is designed to take 5 grains. If you accidentally put 10 grains it, it will blow up. You would be hard pressed to visually discriminate between a single and double charge in many pistol cases (for example 38spl).
BUT
You physically could not double charge your 50 grain rifle case. You’d spill ~40 grains of powder on the floor.
Additionally, the limit on an M1 is the port pressure. Repeated use of slow burning powders that create too high of port pressure will bend the op rod. When the correct (faster burning) powder is used, pressure peaks sooner and has decayed to the designed level by the time the bullet passes the port.
Go as crazy as you want with brass prep, we’re taking about making ammo for a vintage semi auto, not a 1k yd Benchrest gun.
BUT
You physically could not double charge your 50 grain rifle case. You’d spill ~40 grains of powder on the floor.
Additionally, the limit on an M1 is the port pressure. Repeated use of slow burning powders that create too high of port pressure will bend the op rod. When the correct (faster burning) powder is used, pressure peaks sooner and has decayed to the designed level by the time the bullet passes the port.
Go as crazy as you want with brass prep, we’re taking about making ammo for a vintage semi auto, not a 1k yd Benchrest gun.
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I don't know what we're talking about- you're not the OP. So what if you can double-charge a pistol? I gave other examples of reloading mistakes. If we think this guy is an idiot, then he can do all manner of bad things and shouldn't be reloading at all. My point was learning the basics of reloading with something less complex, not dangerous. If you keep disagreeing, please petition the NRA to change their intro to reloading class to be 30-06.
The only thing complex about loading bottleneck rifle with jacketed bullets is you must use lube, try to keep it off the shoulder; you should probably trim; and you must learn signs of head seperation if you use anything other than virgin brass. In 30-06 and .308 learn to ID military headstamps, the loads max out lower in them. Everything else is pretty much identical unless you want to go crazy with prep, but you don't need to.
And like all reloading dont be stupid. One powder on the bench, the powder you are loading. Double check that. Make sure it is the identical powder to what you have data for and don't start at maximum charges.
I learned loading .308 moved on to .223, and load like a dozen different chamberings now. No kabooms, no squibs, no hangfires, probably 30-40k loaded. It demands attention, but it is not hard.
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And like all reloading dont be stupid. One powder on the bench, the powder you are loading. Double check that. Make sure it is the identical powder to what you have data for and don't start at maximum charges.
I learned loading .308 moved on to .223, and load like a dozen different chamberings now. No kabooms, no squibs, no hangfires, probably 30-40k loaded. It demands attention, but it is not hard.
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Loading bottleneck rifle is a bit different from loading for most handgun rounds but is not really much more complex. You just have to address different problems. Setting up the dies is just as critical for both. The sizing die adjustment is critical for bottleneck cartridges because you need to get the correct amount, if any, of shoulder setback. It is critical but not at all difficult. The expander die adjustment is somewhat critical with handgun rounds in order to get enough but not too much flare on the case mouth. The seating and crimping dies are about the same for both types. I do generally like to seat and crimp in two different steps for most of my handgun rounds. Charging the cases is a bit more critical with the handgun rounds since they use a lot less powder. A mistake of one grain can be somewhat exciting with a handgun round that should have 5 grains of fast burning powder when compared to a rifle round that uses 50 grains of slow burning powder. Either way, the reloading sequence should include some means of double or triple checking the powder load so there are no empty cases or double loads.
I formerly charged a case from a powder dropper and then immediately seated a bullet. I got into the rhythm quite quickly but then occasionally would become somewhat hypnotized by the process and would go on autopilot. Occasionally I would seat a bullet and then could not say for sure whether I had charged the case with powder. I pulled the bullets from all the questionable rounds and never did find an empty one. I started charging cases 50 at a time in a loading block so I could visually check all the cases to make sure that they all had powder in them and that they all had about the same amount of powder. When I am using my Dillon 550, all cases are visually checked for powder in the powder drop station before I spin the star and at the bullet seating station before I seat the bullet. That is the same for all the rifle and handgun chamberings I load.
Rifle cases do need trimming at times whereas handgun cases generally do not. That is not big deal since there are plenty of different types of trimmers that can be used to trim cases quickly and accurately. The Lee system works quite well for a small amount of money.
I would not hesitate to start loading 30/06.
I formerly charged a case from a powder dropper and then immediately seated a bullet. I got into the rhythm quite quickly but then occasionally would become somewhat hypnotized by the process and would go on autopilot. Occasionally I would seat a bullet and then could not say for sure whether I had charged the case with powder. I pulled the bullets from all the questionable rounds and never did find an empty one. I started charging cases 50 at a time in a loading block so I could visually check all the cases to make sure that they all had powder in them and that they all had about the same amount of powder. When I am using my Dillon 550, all cases are visually checked for powder in the powder drop station before I spin the star and at the bullet seating station before I seat the bullet. That is the same for all the rifle and handgun chamberings I load.
Rifle cases do need trimming at times whereas handgun cases generally do not. That is not big deal since there are plenty of different types of trimmers that can be used to trim cases quickly and accurately. The Lee system works quite well for a small amount of money.
I would not hesitate to start loading 30/06.
Been reloading for 5 years and about 2 years ago started 3006 for my M1. I actually started with 308, so can tell you its fine starting a bottlenecked cartridge. Just follow the proper steps, and pay attention to details and youll be fine. Remember its 50K PSI near your face...so dont skip steps. Once you get a process down, youll be cranking out 1000`s of rounds.
So...3006..quick story..
I bought 300 Hornady cases to use with 2lb of H4895 that I had biught during the 2013 panic and hadnt used for my 308s.
Hornady 150gr FMJ
New Hornady brass
WLR primer
Seated to cannalure
Tested 46.5gr which according to my chrono was 2620 to 2650fps. Cycling fine, no pressure signs, so loaded all rds up, using it as blasting ammo, and will work up better loads with other powders I have large qty of (IMR4895 and 4064).
The one thing I learned is that Hornady brass is not a good mix for the Garand ! Out of the 284 fired (I dont shoot the M1 nearly enough!), 4 have split length wise on first firing. Never had this happen..ever..in several Ks of rds of 308 out of M1a, FAL, AR10, etc. Bought Win brass which is a little heavier and should hold up better. Mil brass will be great if you have it.
Gear wise..up to you and your budget. I have a RCBS rock chucker, and rcbs full length dies..they work great. Keep your dies clean after use. I use a worlds finest trimmer for all my trimming needs. Buy a spare cutter ir carbide if you go this route. Hand trimming gets old. Fast. I like the Hornady case lube. Some hate it, but its never done me wrong. Wilson Case gauge, get one youll need it..check all rounds after sizing and trimming. Tumbler..RCBS here and lizzard bedding for media. Priming..rcbs bench primer here. I have a Hornady electronic powder thrower, which is nice, but I use my Rcbs powder measure more since its a lot faster..I use a cheapo Hornady scale with it to check charge weight.
So, tumble, lube, size, gauge, trim, deburr, tumble again to remove lube, gauge, prime, load.
Thats my process that works for me. Some wont bither to tumble after sizing, but i kike to get all the lube off, and usually anither hour will do a good job.
Good luck!
So...3006..quick story..
I bought 300 Hornady cases to use with 2lb of H4895 that I had biught during the 2013 panic and hadnt used for my 308s.
Hornady 150gr FMJ
New Hornady brass
WLR primer
Seated to cannalure
Tested 46.5gr which according to my chrono was 2620 to 2650fps. Cycling fine, no pressure signs, so loaded all rds up, using it as blasting ammo, and will work up better loads with other powders I have large qty of (IMR4895 and 4064).
The one thing I learned is that Hornady brass is not a good mix for the Garand ! Out of the 284 fired (I dont shoot the M1 nearly enough!), 4 have split length wise on first firing. Never had this happen..ever..in several Ks of rds of 308 out of M1a, FAL, AR10, etc. Bought Win brass which is a little heavier and should hold up better. Mil brass will be great if you have it.
Gear wise..up to you and your budget. I have a RCBS rock chucker, and rcbs full length dies..they work great. Keep your dies clean after use. I use a worlds finest trimmer for all my trimming needs. Buy a spare cutter ir carbide if you go this route. Hand trimming gets old. Fast. I like the Hornady case lube. Some hate it, but its never done me wrong. Wilson Case gauge, get one youll need it..check all rounds after sizing and trimming. Tumbler..RCBS here and lizzard bedding for media. Priming..rcbs bench primer here. I have a Hornady electronic powder thrower, which is nice, but I use my Rcbs powder measure more since its a lot faster..I use a cheapo Hornady scale with it to check charge weight.
So, tumble, lube, size, gauge, trim, deburr, tumble again to remove lube, gauge, prime, load.
Thats my process that works for me. Some wont bither to tumble after sizing, but i kike to get all the lube off, and usually anither hour will do a good job.
Good luck!
Combat Diver
Well-Known Member
Some of you make is sound if your building the space shuttle. Its not rocket science. BSA used to teach 11 yo to reload 30-06 at Philmont scout ranch. Just read a reloading manual and apply knowledge.
CD
CD
nbkky71
Well-Known Member
On the contrary, I've found Hornady brass to run fine in my M1 rifles. I collected hundreds of pieces of Hornady brass over the years shooting the JCG matches at Camp Perry and that brass has lasted just fine... 6+ firings in some cases. I've had the worst luck with Winchester brass, with the pockets loosening after a couple of firings.
At the end of the day, brass is a consumable item. Too bad we can't afford Lapua!
OP
See the bold underline part above,.... why do/should you keep it off the shoulder? I'm thinking I read this somewhere else, but haven't seen an explanation why. As a matter of fact, this is one area where I have seen a lot of instructions, but little explanation to go along with it. Examples include -
1) Don't lube the case shoulder.
2) Do lube the inside of the neck to avoid stuck cases in the sizing die.
3) Use mica powder on the inside of the case neck in place of some sort of lube (to prevent cases sticking in the sizing die).
4) Use a carbinde expander decapping die rod assembly in place of lube? (still not quite sure what this is even for)
Unless there really is a better way, I just want to keep it simple and lube the case (in the right places) and run it through the sizing die (without worrying about a high probability of stuck cases). Look forward to your thoughts. TIA.
This!!! I think they are north of Charlotte.
I see a mention of loading for pistol (straight walled) first. I too read that a lot during my research phase before getting started. When I was getting equipment I went ahead and got everything I needed for both 9mm and .40. To date (4 yrs) I have loaded absolutely no pistol/straight walled but approx. 1500 bottlenecked (mostly .308, some .223 and even less .30-06) with no issues. Of course there were some issues with me not seating primers correctly or inadvertently not charging a case but I've had no issues that caused a problem with the weapon or any injuries. Based on you asking for this type of info up front, I'm going to assume you have the right mindset to do this safely. Read a complete reloading manual (or 3) before getting started and use common sense. You'll do just fine and enjoy shooting all the more for it. I'm at like 64 cents per for my .308 pet load (on the first firing of new brass). Getting ready stop buy in intervals of anything but 1000 to drive that down even further.
1) You don't want lube on the shoulder because it will make dents, it does not make the round unsafe.
I suppose if it was piled on you could screw with headspace, and it is working the shoulder a little more if it is denting. Spray lubes are thin enough this doesn't seem to be an issue.
2) I may or may not lube the inside of case necks, it makes the process smoother, much smoother with some calibers, and prevents pull which can/does alter headspace. From the old timer I learned from I use Breakfree on a swab and make just the lightest pass around the rim you can barely see any in the neck. I have never had an issue.
3) Mica or whatever should be faster to apply as there is no concern about over doing it and contaminating powder or anything.
4) Does anyone make a non carbide expander ball? Some sort of lube still makes things smoother.
The easiest way to lube is with a spray, Dillon, Hornady, or homebrewed lanolin and alcohol. Throw the brass in a ziplock, box, or pan give a few sprays, shake it vigorously, maybe repeat, open, let the carrier flash off, takes a minute or two at room temp, then get to sizing. Enough will get in the necks usually to suffice.
With rifle I always do something to remove lube from the outside after sizing, it increases bolt thrust which is hard on your firearms. Large batches I tumble in walnut with a splash of mineral spirits, small batches I just wipe off.
I thought you had to pay a bit more and specify carbide expander balls to get them. I do not think any of my RCBS dies have them, and my Redding dies did not come with them. Perhaps I have had them all along without knowing it, but the ones I have certainly drag a lot through a dry neck. A little lube inside the neck sure makes things easier.
You're probably right, I made that last statement from bias and ignorance.
I'm a Hornady fanboy no doubt. Haven't looked at any other brand for dies using an expander in many years. And haven't loaded with any others in even longer.
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Redding has optional carbide expanders, which are well worth the money, IMHO.
The problem with lube on the shoulders is that it forms a hydraulic lock when sizing. Lube forms an airtight seal on the neck and case body, any lube on the shoulder has nowhere to go, so it leaves a dent. Some dies (like Lee) have a small hole drilled through the side into the shoulder area, to help prevent this from happening. I know my Redding 223 sizing die does NOT have this hole.
The problem with lube on the shoulders is that it forms a hydraulic lock when sizing. Lube forms an airtight seal on the neck and case body, any lube on the shoulder has nowhere to go, so it leaves a dent. Some dies (like Lee) have a small hole drilled through the side into the shoulder area, to help prevent this from happening. I know my Redding 223 sizing die does NOT have this hole.