How could we apply heat to this system in a garage? Would starting with 212* water help?
Or just put the Dutch oven on the stove, if'n ya wanna get it higher than 212 deg F.
Since cast iron is porous and heating cast iron expands the pores, it makes sense that heat would enhance the process of drawing out the rust. I'd never thought about it.
Acids work better with hot metal... not sure it would make any difference with electrolysis.
Do you have any examples of homemade setups that use heat and electrolysis?
Nope, sorry... but it's a good point, expand everything first with heat, then the electrolytic solution can go inta tiny places.
I learned about cleanin' metal with heat and weak acids by doin' boiler cleanin' with a power company. They shut down the boiler, an' before it cools, fill it with a solution of citric acid and EDTA (a chelating agent that keeps the metals in solution so they are removed when flushed). By testin' the metal content of the water that was flushed, we calculated the pounds of metal removed. Each time it was more'n you would guess!
I like squeezin' lemons on bayonet electric connections, like stern lights on boats, and corroded connectors. Vinegar is great for removin' rust (short rub), or the whole blue finish (long soak) on firearms. Muriatic acid is dilute hydrachloric acid, and would be great on the hot Dutch oven.
With both acids and electroysis, the key is to know the progress. Check it often, so ya don't take more'n ya need to take.
