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J R Green

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I am in the process of wiring my shop with it's own power supply.

The site where my shop is used to have a mobile home on it so there are underground wires already in place from the power co. I have bought a meter base and am mounting it on the outside wall of the shop. My intent is to come right off of that through the wall and into a breaker box.

The question is what will I need for a box? Will a main lug do or will it have to have a breaker? Since it's a small shop do I need 200 amp service or will 100 / 125 do? I plan on having 1 220 outlet just in case but I don't specifically need one.

Advice please.
 
I am in the process of wiring my shop with it's own power supply.

The site where my shop is used to have a mobile home on it so there are underground wires already in place from the power co. I have bought a meter base and am mounting it on the outside wall of the shop. My intent is to come right off of that through the wall and into a breaker box.

The question is what will I need for a box? Will a main lug do or will it have to have a breaker? Since it's a small shop do I need 200 amp service or will 100 / 125 do? I plan on having 1 220 outlet just in case but I don't specifically need one.

Advice please.

I'm thinking you're on the right track for a small shop to have the breaker panel box with a main and the necessary breakers for various outlets needed. 100 amp should be good enough and will allow you to have one of the 220 volt outlets along with other things a small shop would need.
 
not sure of your local codes , but without a main breaker you will have to have the meter pulled to do any repairs I suggest a box with a main breaker


This plus some areas require an outside disconnect to shut off power separate from the meter base even for a shop. This is usually in case of fire to keep the fire department from having to pull the meter to kill power.
 
A 100 amp panel would be perfect. I would also do as the others have said and get the one with a main.

I ran mine from the panel box on my house and used a hundred amp breaker as the disconnect.
 
O K Is there such a thing as a meter base with a breaker panel? Can I run the wiring from an outside (covered) breaker through the wall to my outlets.

I wan't to do it as cheaply as I can and still get past the inspections people.
 
O K Is there such a thing as a meter base with a breaker panel? Can I run the wiring from an outside (covered) breaker through the wall to my outlets.

I wan't to do it as cheaply as I can and still get past the inspections people.
yes that is what I put on my house
 
Just a thought from my experience -- Go ahead with the 200 amp service. The cost is not much more. That way if you run across a heat pump or central air
unit for the shop, it will wire right up. Also, think about future air compressors, plasma cutters, welders. My big welder uses a 90 amp breaker.
 
Just a thought from my experience -- Go ahead with the 200 amp service. The cost is not much more. That way if you run across a heat pump or central air
unit for the shop, it will wire right up. Also, think about future air compressors, plasma cutters, welders. My big welder uses a 90 amp breaker.
I have a compressor and welder that run on 110 now but I think they both could be re wired for 220. You may be right.

Anybody else want me to spend more money?;)

For the all in one am I right that I wouldn't need any heavy gauge cable to make the connection? @jjwestbrook
 
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I re read your post and you said that you already have a meter base. Use it outside the building and a panel inside with a 200 amp main. This will make it easier to wire the inside of your building. You should not need any outside disconnects unless you have a connection outside(heat pump, a/c unit), but this changes by county.
The all in one you won't need any hook up wire, but all inside wiring will have to go through the wall to each inside circuit.
Also, if you trip a breaker while working, you have to go outside in the cold /dark / rain to reset it.
 
I re read your post and you said that you already have a meter base. Use it outside the building and a panel inside with a 200 amp main. This will make it easier to wire the inside of your building. You should not need any outside disconnects unless you have a connection outside(heat pump, a/c unit), but this changes by county.
The all in one you won't need any hook up wire, but all inside wiring will have to go through the wall to each inside circuit.
Also, if you trip a breaker while working, you have to go outside in the cold /dark / rain to reset it.

^^^ This.

Also, go with 200A with a main breaker. It is my understanding that most power companies no longer offer new services that are less than 200A at the meter.
 
Edit: Sorry, missed the part about you already having a meterbase. The other items below still need to be figured out though...

Are you sure that old underground service is hot? It may have been abandoned and cut loose/damaged/etc. If not, you may be looking at some work on the utility side. Depending on how much work has to done, you may have to pay some construction cost because you load credit from the small shop won't be that much...most utility charges work on a formula similar to this...construction cost minus your load credit (how much load, load factor, etc) = what you have to pay up front to have the service installed. If your credit is higher than construction cost, then you are good...if not you have to pay the difference. I would go ahead and call your utility...I assume you have a co-op or Duke...they will also have some info on what type of meter base you will need and some requirements on mounting (mount it right the first time to limit rework and filling holes in the wall). Then you'll have your local codes/inspector to deal with also.

The temp base you link to above may be ok for your needs but may not be allowed for a permanent structure. Also the temp one you linked to above is setup for overhead service (top fed). Some utilities won't run underground into the top of a meter base like that.

100 amp base is probably good for a small shop unless you are getting into bigger equipment as mentioned above. That existing service may only be sized for a 60 or 100 amp service depending on how old it is, how far from transformer, etc. and utility can figure that out as well. Just some things to think about. :)
 
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Edit: Sorry, missed the part about you already having a meterbase. The other items below still need to be figured out though...

Are you sure that old underground service is hot? It may have been abandoned and cut loose/damaged/etc. If not, you may be looking at some work on the utility side. Depending on how much work has to done, you may have to pay some construction cost because you load credit from the small shop won't be that much...most utility charges work on a formula similar to this...construction cost minus your load credit (how much load, load factor, etc) = what you have to pay up front to have the service installed. If your credit is higher than construction cost, then you are good...if not you have to pay the difference. I would go ahead and call your utility...I assume you have a co-op or Duke...they will also have some info on what type of meter base you will need and some requirements on mounting (mount it right the first time to limit rework and filling holes in the wall). Then you'll have your local codes/inspector to deal with also.

The temp base you link to above may be ok for your needs but may not be allowed for a permanent structure. Also the temp one you linked to above is setup for overhead service (top fed). Some utilities won't run underground into the top of a meter base like that.

100 amp base is probably good for a small shop unless you are getting into bigger equipment as mentioned above. That existing service may only be sized for a 60 or 100 amp service depending on how old it is, how far from transformer, etc. and utility can figure that out as well. Just some things to think about. :)
The base is still in the box and can be returned so that's not an issue. The service is under cover of a lean to off the side of the building so not worried about weather.

Cables are disconnected but are still at the transformer where it gets tied in.
 
Since you're going to have to get the inspectors out there anyway, my suggestion is to call the inspection office as ask for a site visit. That way you can have the inspector tell you what he wants to see. Then call the power co and ask them what they want.
I'd put a 200 amp service.
 
The base is still in the box and can be returned so that's not an issue. The service is under cover of a lean to off the side of the building so not worried about weather.

Cables are disconnected but are still at the transformer where it gets tied in.

I'd personally go with a 200 amp rated base, made for underground, even if you are going to use less. The utility will run the service into the base, not you, so they won't usually run underground into a base setup for overhead service (as the temp base you linked to). Just make sure they can access it to read the meter, especially if they don't remote read it. You'll wire out into your building.

Is the shop in a place where you can run a sub panel off your house main? This may or may not be more costly than what you are trying to do here. My building is fed off of my house main and has its own breaker box inside the building with all the circuits and breakers. Mines Oversized for the load as I only have 120V and only have lights and outlets to run standard 15 amp outlets for tools (table saw, drill press, golf cart charger, etc).
 
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I'd personally go with a 200 amp rated base, made for underground, even if you are going to use less. The utility will run the service into the base, not you, so they won't usually run underground into a base setup for overhead service (as the temp base you linked to). Just make sure they can access it to read the meter, especially if they don't remote read it. You'll wire out into your building.

Is the shop in a place where you can run a sub panel off your house main? This may or may not be more costly than what you are trying to do here. My building is fed off of my house main and has its own breaker box inside the building with all the circuits and breakers. Mines Oversized for the load as I only have 120V and only have lights and outlets to run standard 15 amp outlets for tools (table saw, drill press, golf cart charger, etc).
Shop is a good 200 feet from the house and the lines are already there so I figure this will be easier. Not happy that the minimum bill for the meter is $30 a month though but I expect to be out there a lot. I haven't had a workshop in 3 years and miss it.

Going to start some knife making... gonna compete with you other blade smiths... Gonna win:D!
 
Shop is a good 200 feet from the house and the lines are already there so I figure this will be easier. Not happy that the minimum bill for the meter is $30 a month though but I expect to be out there a lot. I haven't had a workshop in 3 years and miss it.

Going to start some knife making... gonna compete with you other blade smiths... Gonna win:D!

Yeah 200 ft is a good ways away! Mine is basically a detached garage and is only about 15 feet from my house meter base. Good luck with the knives! I'd love to get into smithing but I can't afford another hobby! I love Forged in Fire on History channel.
 
Yeah 200 ft is a good ways away! Mine is basically a detached garage and is only about 15 feet from my house meter base. Good luck with the knives! I'd love to get into smithing but I can't afford another hobby! I love Forged in Fire on History channel.
Forged in Fire!

I've seen every episode4-6 times each and now I'm an expert!

It's a derail but hey, it's my thread, I thought I would start by using stuff like rebar and mild steel until I got the hang of making the shapes so I didn't ruin any quality steel.
 
Get a 200amp 24 circuit panel from your local supply house. It will have your meter base and will have more than enough circuits to suit future needs.
 
1) Do you know the size / rating of the underground cable? You mentioned RV hookup and those are usually 50A max. This will determine the service capacity.

2) as others have said, verify requirement for an outside disconnect. I’m not a fan of them from a security standpoint but typically a lock will suffice.

3) assuming you have the capacity, I agree with getting a 200A panel. You’ll want a service entrance / mains one. The main breaker will make things much easier should you have an issue in the future.

4) pay attention to grounding requirements, which is typically TWO ground rods 8 to 10 feet apart and connected (mechanically, not soldered) with #6.

5A 220V circuit won’t be a big deal. It sounds like you have both hot phases anyway which would be typical in a 50A RV hookup. There is one in a 30A hookup.

6) Make sure all your indoor circuits are properly grounded and you bond the ground in the service box,

7) make sure you follow all requirements for GFCI outlets as this is somewhat of an exterior location and probably has some rules for it.

8) make sure you perform the circuit load calculations, which can include a diversity factor and note any continuous loads (on for 3+ hours) as these have wire upsizing requirements. You probably won’t fall into “residential” code since it’s a separately serviced building, but you’ll want plenty of outlets and pay attention to whether you run 15 or 20a ones.
 
It’s no so much the distance from the shop to the house, as it is from the transformer to the last location on the circuit.

IF running a new service to the shop means that you’ll have a significantly shorter distance from the transformer to the shop, then go that route.

However, if it’s the same or longer, consider running a line from your existing service and saving the $360.00 per year minimum change.
 
It’s no so much the distance from the shop to the house, as it is from the transformer to the last location on the circuit.

IF running a new service to the shop means that you’ll have a significantly shorter distance from the transformer to the shop, then go that route.

However, if it’s the same or longer, consider running a line from your existing service and saving the $360.00 per year minimum change.
The wires from the transformer are already run. There was a mobile home on the site sometime back That's why I put the building on that particular location. (There's even water and a septic field on the site) Off topic but it had a brick foundation that had been bulldozed into a pile that I busted up with a sledge and hauled out by hand.

I wasn't happy to hear about the minimum service charge but that's $30 minimum and not $30 plus the power consumed ($29 usage = $30, $31 usage =$31) so I can tolerate it.
 
Never mentioned the wire type and gauge from the service provider (Duke Power?) going underground. That will determine what size box and main you can have. If it were me I would buy as big a panel/meter base combo the wire supported amperage wise. Cost in panels are so small from 100 to 200 it’s not a factor.

Separate power meters require two ground rods at least 6 feet apart connected to each other with a #6 copper conductor. Then grounded to the panel.

You may not want to do this but over the long haul maybe just adding a large circuit to your house existing panel and running a feeder underground could be cheaper. No minimum charge per month. 10 years x 360= $3600.00. Wire, box, breakers, shovel, or trencher will be far less. If you use $15.00 of energy from the house panel you will save enough for me a new CZ 308.
 
Never mentioned the wire type and gauge from the service provider (Duke Power?) going underground. That will determine what size box and main you can have. If it were me I would buy as big a panel/meter base combo the wire supported amperage wise. Cost in panels are so small from 100 to 200 it’s not a factor.

Separate power meters require two ground rods at least 6 feet apart connected to each other with a #6 copper conductor. Then grounded to the panel.

You may not want to do this but over the long haul maybe just adding a large circuit to your house existing panel and running a feeder underground could be cheaper. No minimum charge per month. 10 years x 360= $3600.00. Wire, box, breakers, shovel, or trencher will be far less. If you use $15.00 of energy from the house panel you will save enough for me a new CZ 308.
I bought a 125 amp meter base and when I went to attach the cables they were too big to fit in the clips.So back out for a 200 amp service with is what the ground wires are. As far as grounding the system Duke Energy said they would handle from the meter base to the pole so I assume that they will set the ground as well.
 
I bought a 125 amp meter base and when I went to attach the cables they were too big to fit in the clips.So back out for a 200 amp service with is what the ground wires are. As far as grounding the system Duke Energy said they would handle from the meter base to the pole so I assume that they will set the ground as well.
I’ve never seen Duke do anything but attached the wires from the pole. You can inquire but I drive every ground rod. Depending on the soil two ground rods take some serious effort to beat into the ground. Make sure you put on the bonding clamps before you strike that ground rod even one time. They will not go over the rod after it’s mushroomed. Borrow a fence pole driver for the most of the pounding. Look up the codes for panel height and conduit size requirements. If conduit is already there, you are ahead of the game. See if you can find the wire size on the wire and the bare spot color- aluminum or copper.
 
Duke won’t put in the ground rods at your meter base panel. That is on you and make sure it meets code for your inspection. Duke’s ground is out at the transformer pole.
 
Pro-tip on the ground rod. place a regular ole nut under the tip of the rod before driving it in...not big enough for the rod to slide thru, but slightly larger in diameter than the rod itself. its slightly more difficult to get it started, but you'll appreciate the lack of friction as you drive it deeper.
 
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