Factory Five Racing Roadster MkIII Build Thread (PICTURE HEAVY)

Skaufma0

Skaufma0

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So I was asked to start a build thread on this project (I was foolish enough to mention it and not realize you guys would actually want to see it :p).

So this is our project build of a Factory Five Racing MkIII Roadster. This is a replica of a 1965 Shelby Cobra. I'll include details and comments with the pictures to explain what you're actually looking at for those that don't know. I'll try to break it up a bit so it's not such a bandwidth suck, and I'll add more as I find more pictures or take more of course.

The day before we got her, we built a body-buck to hold the body and be able to park the chassis underneath, to take up less space in the garage and keep the body from flexing. It's a uni-body made of fiberglass, so we don't want it moving too much.

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And here she comes!!!

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The trunk panels and a battery box to keep it separated from everything else, while still being accessible when the body goes on. The quick rivets will save you time, and sanity when working with aluminum. You can pre-fit everything and make sure it's all where you need it to be without having to drill out rivets if you miss something. Then you can remove them when it's time to make it permanent.

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Started wiring, got the dual chrome rollbars fitted, fitted the radiator, made temp mounts for the headlights, started the ductwork for the heat, and a few other odds and ends.

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Started the dash, got sidetracked from everything else.

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Mocking up the dash panels. The wood panel on the right is the color all of them will be when completed. The speedometer is actually a reverse style, like in British sports cars. I believe Aston Martin still uses them.

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Skaufma0 said:
The trunk panels and a battery box to keep it separated from everything else, while still being accessible when the body goes on. The quick rivets will save you time, and sanity when working with aluminum. You can pre-fit everything and make sure it's all where you need it to be without having to drill out rivets if you miss something. Then you can remove them when it's time to make it permanent.

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Started wiring, got the dual chrome rollbars fitted, fitted the radiator, made temp mounts for the headlights, started the ductwork for the heat, and a few other odds and ends.

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Started the dash, got sidetracked from everything else.

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Mocking up the dash panels. The wood panel on the right is the color all of them will be when completed.

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Original engine came from a 1993 5.0LX...but found a whole in the side of the block from when it was driven into water. So went a different route. Went with a 302 crate motor, got some GT40P heads, decided on roller rockers, and then mocked everything up to make sure everything fit correctly. The block has been bored and stroked, along with a more aggressive crank and cam setup. The carb is a Holley, had a Demon setup for it but decided to run with the Holley instead.

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Slightly more aggressive cams to match the crankshaft. Should give it a pretty gnarly sound without being obnoxious or having to mess with the AFR too much to maintain idle.

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The Scorpion roller rockers I went with.

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Painted the valve covers black, and then polished the paint off of the risen parts. I can't seem to leave well enough alone.

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That’s awesome!!
Looking fwd to following this
 
Wow, what an awesome project and first rate work. I'm impressed. Can't wait to see the rest.
 
Red Marley said:
I got pics. Impressive work.
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NKD said:
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concepthomes1 said:
Holy cow........I am in awe.
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SnowRooster said:
That’s awesome!!
Looking fwd to following this
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Chdamn said:
Wow, what an awesome project and first rate work. I'm impressed. Can't wait to see the rest.
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Thanks I appreciate it. It's getting there. If it wasn't for work or kids or anything like that then it'd have been finished a LONG time ago, but such is life. Should go like a stabbed rat when it's done.
 
Skaufma0 said:
So that's what I've been able to sort through so far. I've got TONS more, just haven't had a lot of time to sort through it all.
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Thanks for putting this together for us to follow along with your build.
 
This looks great! Glad you got rid of the EFI in favor of the carb. I hate seeing an FFR with a bonestock Foxbody engine in it.

They look fine in a Fox (mine pictured) but the carb is just period correct and allows you some latitude on the cam to get the “chop" we all love.

I know you knew all this. :D

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fieldgrade said:
This looks great! Glad you got rid of the EFI in favor of the carb. I hate seeing an FFR with a bonestock Foxbody engine in it.

They look fine in a Fox (mine pictured) but the carb is just period correct and allows you some latitude on the cam to get the “chop" we all love.

I know you knew all this. :D

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Originally it was going to be fuel injected...but when we saw the monster of a wiring harness that was sold and the carb was chosen. I prefer carbs anyway. I want as little electrical stuff as possible. Besides, a carb takes 30 minutes to completely rebuild. An EFI system could have 50 things wrong at once, and take forever to diagnose.

Nothing is better than the sound (or exhaust smell) of a carbureted engine!


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
Side pipes right?

If you feel like dropping $1500 ditch the Holley and check out Edelbrock Pro Flo FI ... easy to tune, lower idle setting, better fuel efficiency, great power control. A huge plus when we switch out the carb for FI on my son’s ‘70 C10 (350 bored .030 over).
 
Skaufma0 said:
Originally it was going to be fuel injected...but when we saw the monster of a wiring harness that was sold and the carb was chosen. I prefer carbs anyway. I want as little electrical stuff as possible. Besides, a carb takes 30 minutes to completely rebuild. An EFI system could have 50 things wrong at once, and take forever to diagnose.

Nothing is better than the sound (or exhaust smell) of a carbureted engine!
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I remember rebuilding a carb for a ’67 Galaxie I bought from my dad. We did it on a piece of newspaper in the den one night. Slightly easier than changing an $11 flush valve on a toilet.
 
fieldgrade said:
I remember rebuilding a carb for a ’67 Galaxie I bought from my dad. We did it on a piece of newspaper in the den one night. Slightly easier than changing an $11 flush valve on a toilet.
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Hah! Well the best part is if you fix one, you can fix them all.


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NCFubar said:
Side pipes right?

If you feel like dropping $1500 ditch the Holley and check out Edelbrock Pro Flo FI ... easy to tune, lower idle setting, better fuel efficiency, great power control. A huge plus when we switch out the carb for FI on my son’s ‘70 C10 (350 bored .030 over).
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Yeah, dual sidepipes. they’ve been chromed since the photos.

Ehhh, I’m looking forward to dropping the engine in and having 3 wires to plug in. I laid out the harness to see what the wiring diagram would look like and I got a migraine.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
Skaufma0 said:
Originally it was going to be fuel injected...but when we saw the monster of a wiring harness that was sold and the carb was chosen. I prefer carbs anyway. I want as little electrical stuff as possible. Besides, a carb takes 30 minutes to completely rebuild. An EFI system could have 50 things wrong at once, and take forever to diagnose.

Nothing is better than the sound (or exhaust smell) of a carbureted engine!


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
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If you ever get bored with your easy peasy carb, let me know, I've got a quadrajunk I mean jet that needs some attention. Can't find anyone local who will or even knows how to tune it. It's been rebuilt but I can't get it dialed in.
 
LizardKing said:
If you ever get bored with your easy peasy carb, let me know, I've got a quadrajunk I mean jet that needs some attention. Can't find anyone local who will or even knows how to tune it. It's been rebuilt but I can't get it dialed in.
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I’m sure I could figure something out!
Not many people know these things these days.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
Skaufma0 said:
I’m sure I could figure something out!
Not many people know these things these days.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
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Seeing your work so far, you probably could! Great project and progress so far. I'm looking forward to following it.
Not to derail your thread but I just find it funny when people talk about how easy carbs are to work on but nobody knows how anymore. I guess I'm just frustrated I can't figure it out more so than anything.
 
LizardKing said:
Seeing your work so far, you probably could! Great project and progress so far. I'm looking forward to following it.
Not to derail your thread but I just find it funny when people talk about how easy carbs are to work on but nobody knows how anymore. I guess I'm just frustrated I can't figure it out more so than anything.
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It’s the kind of thing that stumps you and drives you nuts, UNTIL you see it and do it the first time. Then it just makes perfect sense.


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Looks good. Should be a nice combo, i figure 330hp with P heads assuming its a 347 stroker. What compression will it have?
 
I just appreciate how you’ve handled the arrival of the goods. The bodybuck to store the body, with chassis underneath. I had been wondering how best to do that if I pursue a Type 65 Coupe.
 
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Mightyox04 said:
Looks good. Should be a nice combo, i figure 330hp with P heads assuming its a 347 stroker. What compression will it have?
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You’re spot on. With the crank, cam, piston combo I’ve got with the heads and the carb that will eventually be on it (once I get it running and painted I’m going to swap a bigger one on it) it’ll be running a 10.5:1 compression. Everything taken into account it should be right around 390-400hp, 300-320 lb-ft, which isn’t insane, but considering fully built it’ll weigh in at 2,250 lbs, it’ll move like it’s on fire.


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fieldgrade said:
I just appreciate how you’ve handled the arrival of the goods. The buckboard to store the body, with chassis underneath. I had been wondering how best to do that if I pursue a Type 65 Coupe.
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With the coupe it may be a little more difficult considering it’s got a roof...but it really has come in handy.

When we moved I cut the legs off the buck and put the wheels on the bottom of the top half where the body sits. Now that’s under my back porch (almost like a car port) and the chassis is in the garage.


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Stentor said:
Great looking build, @Skaufma0.

You should consider investing in some better tires once you get her close to being on the road.

Those Radial T/A's won't provide much grip once you smash the loud pedal.
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It’s evolved a lot since it’s been started. I’m sure those will be temporary at best.


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HMP said:
Sweet Jesus, this thread rules
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What he said. This is the real deal. Thanks to @Skaufma0 for posting. I'm excited just to read about it - this kind of car is so far from what you can buy in the showroom today - it provides a 500-amp connection to where the rubber meets the road. Bring it
 
Skaufma0 said:
Ehhh, I’m looking forward to dropping the engine in and having 3 wires to plug in. I laid out the harness to see what the wiring diagram would look like and I got a migraine.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
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The Edelbrock setup doesn’t require the wiring nightmare ... it’s 95% self contained. I’m kinda like you on carbs are comfortable for us old school guys but after my kid and I installed the setup on his truck and I saw the increase efficiency and better streetable engine management I was sold.


Stentor said:
Great looking build, @Skaufma0.

You should consider investing in some better tires once you get her close to being on the road.

Those Radial T/A's won't provide much grip once you smash the loud pedal.
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I love to spend others money ... a company south of Las Vegas, Legendary Wheels, makes some sweet replica rims for vintage Mustangs and Shelby Mustangs that would look sweet on that rocket.
 
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