Fruit Trees

backwoodsshooter

there’s always a method to the madness
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Guys, I remember back on the other site someone posted about someone here in NC that had a big ol fruit tree nursery. I am trying to get that info or info on someone that can get me a specific cherry tree without giving up my first born.



Oh, btw I bought 2 granny smith trees today and 1 concord grape vine today woot. The cherry tree I am looking for is a North Star Dwarf Sour Cherry
 
That's weird. I was about to start a thread about peach trees. I'm going to anyway but thought it weird I came across this thread.
 
I can't think of any good sources for specific cultivars of trees off the top of my head, since I mostly deal with timber trees, but I do deal with ornamentals and fruit trees from time to time.

A word of caution for anyone who wants to plant apples. There's a common tree disease called cedar apple rust that co-hosts on both red cedar and fruit bearing apple trees. If you want to plant apples, you're going to need to cut down all the cedars on your property, or you'll eventually get the disease. There are some chemical treatments you can use, but they're pricey and you'll have to treat every year unless you cut out the cedars first.

Cedar apple rust is virtually harmless to cedars, and it usually won't kill apple trees either, but it will have a big impact on fruit production.
 
I can't think of any good sources for specific cultivars of trees off the top of my head, since I mostly deal with timber trees, but I do deal with ornamentals and fruit trees from time to time.

A word of caution for anyone who wants to plant apples. There's a common tree disease called cedar apple rust that co-hosts on both red cedar and fruit bearing apple trees. If you want to plant apples, you're going to need to cut down all the cedars on your property, or you'll eventually get the disease. There are some chemical treatments you can use, but they're pricey and you'll have to treat every year unless you cut out the cedars first.

Cedar apple rust is virtually harmless to cedars, and it usually won't kill apple trees either, but it will have a big impact on fruit production.

I've been told that cedar trees are why my peaches mold on the tree just before they ripen. I have sprayed them with a fruit tree spray and had good peaches, I just don't like spraying things.
 
rust1.jpeg rust.jpeg apple_leaf.jpeg
I can't think of any good sources for specific cultivars of trees off the top of my head, since I mostly deal with timber trees, but I do deal with ornamentals and fruit trees from time to time.

A word of caution for anyone who wants to plant apples. There's a common tree disease called cedar apple rust that co-hosts on both red cedar and fruit bearing apple trees. If you want to plant apples, you're going to need to cut down all the cedars on your property, or you'll eventually get the disease. There are some chemical treatments you can use, but they're pricey and you'll have to treat every year unless you cut out the cedars first.

Cedar apple rust is virtually harmless to cedars, and it usually won't kill apple trees either, but it will have a big impact on fruit production.


Fyi, there are rust resistant apple strains.
Unfortunately, I planted the non resistant variety. Live and learn.
I collected these one year.
 
I've been told that cedar trees are why my peaches mold on the tree just before they ripen. I have sprayed them with a fruit tree spray and had good peaches, I just don't like spraying things.
Mine do the same thing.
Wonder how close the cedars have to be? Killing mine would be a pleasure. The neighbors might not care for me axing theirs.
 
Mine do the same thing.
Wonder how close the cedars have to be? Killing mine would be a pleasure. The neighbors might not care for me axing theirs.

For commercial orchards, the ideal is to cut down every cedar within 1/4 mile, but that's not feasible. You'd want to at least have a few hundred yards between the cedars and your fruit trees.
 
David Vernon at Century Farms specializes in heirloom varieties. Last I heard he has almost 400 varieties.

Cedar apple rust is a fungus. The other thing to look for are trees that are resistant to fire blight, which is bacterial. It affects both apples and pears and can kill them.
 
Bumping this old post. Wife wants to plant some fruit trees this fall but would like some that can take hard clay that we have here in Asheboro. I've been told to get on a waiting list ASAP because quality orchards sell out fast.

Few questions, since this is from 2017 is everyone still using century farm orchards?

Also she mentioned that possibly some places may sell grafted trees that would do better with hard clay. Has anyone had any experience with that good or bad.
 
Is fall not the best time to plant?

Also I'm sorry for my ignorance what is an age extension?
as far as I know each NC county has an agricultural extension program ran by NCSU to help farmers both commercial and hobbyist.
I can only speak on apples and I've planted after last average frost date. fall planting would be a great question for your county's ag agent
 
Thank you, they have their number on the website I'll call them and ask them about my specific area.
 
I have found that growing them slowly helps.
Don't add a bunch of crazy soil or fertilizers etc...
Just put them in the ground and let them do their thing.
You still want to pick a good location for the tree, but only clip it if you have to. I clip branches when it is cold, and if I see rust I take it by hand and dispose away from the tree. This process has been working okay for my Pears and Apples, so far. 🤞
 
Bumping this old post. Wife wants to plant some fruit trees this fall but would like some that can take hard clay that we have here in Asheboro. I've been told to get on a waiting list ASAP because quality orchards sell out fast.

Few questions, since this is from 2017 is everyone still using century farm orchards?

Also she mentioned that possibly some places may sell grafted trees that would do better with hard clay. Has anyone had any experience with that good or bad.
The trees I got from Century Orchards did just fine in the hard clay we had in Oxford. Just make sure you water regularly, they give instructions on proper care. I’ve always planted in the fall while the trees are dormant.
 
Bumping this old post. Wife wants to plant some fruit trees this fall but would like some that can take hard clay that we have here in Asheboro. I've been told to get on a waiting list ASAP because quality orchards sell out fast.

Few questions, since this is from 2017 is everyone still using century farm orchards?

Also she mentioned that possibly some places may sell grafted trees that would do better with hard clay. Has anyone had any experience with that good or bad.
You definitely want grafted trees, otherwise you do not know what you will end up with. Trees grown from seed are not true to variety. You can also select different rootstock varieties for different characteristics, standard, dwarf, semi-dwarf, and also for different soil types and drought resistance.

Some of the older heirloom varieties will probably do better than some of the newly developed varieties as far as surviving your soil. I would recommend looking for varieties that are fire blight and cedar apple rust resistant. I'm partial to the limbertwig varieties.

I haven't bought any trees from David at Century Farms in several years, but the ones I did buy were top notice. If you have never been to Century Farms, I would recommend going to one of his open house Saturday's typically in November, where he will have different apples available to sample and usually has a display board set up with around 100 different varieties of apples. You can order online and pick them up at the farm during the open house and save shipping.

Another seller of heirloom apple trees is Ron Joyner, at Big Horse Creek Farm. They sell at the West Jefferson farmer's market.

Tom Brown over in Clemmons is another source for heirloom trees, but is sold out for the year.
 
I’ve gotten 3 from big horse creek and they did really well. Theirs were potted and the state sale trees , most likely century, were bare root.
 
winter went out with a fizzle so no late frost bit us. there are hundreds of old trees bearing fruit this year. these two neglected apples came off my grandparents land. the red one I'll try to get Century to graft this winter, it's just that tasty.

L63JSFi.jpg
 
winter went out with a fizzle so no late frost bit us. there are hundreds of old trees bearing fruit this year. these two neglected apples came off my grandparents land. the red one I'll try to get Century to graft this winter, it's just that tasty.

L63JSFi.jpg
Do you by chance know the names of either apple? If not, try contacting Tom Brown in the above post and see if he could help identify them. Might possibly be a "lost variety" that he is looking for.
 
Tagged for interest. We’re wanting to plant apples, pears, cherries & paw paws. Maybe even a fig, if they’ll grow here.
 
Do you by chance know the names of either apple? If not, try contacting Tom Brown in the above post and see if he could help identify them. Might possibly be a "lost variety" that he is looking for.

apocryphal apples as far as I know. everything was called a rusty coat or granny smith. you'd mentioned Tom Brown upthread and his website is a great reference.
 
Here is a Question. I'm in Zone 7A for growing. If you had to choose 2-3 fruit trees (for human consumption) that can grow here "without" needing both a male and female, what would they be?
 
just had some trees dropped of by the shaman people at Fedco in ME. wind is gusting to 60 so sadly can't plant today, tomorrow will set
Arkansas Black, Ashemead's Kernel, Chestnut, Cox's Orange Pippin, Frostbite, Holstein and King David. site already prepped, damn this wind!

apfel.jpeg
 
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