Griffin Armament Checkmate QD adapters

Thanks. That was an informative answer. The KAC one was especially surprising.

 

I sent them a email a week ago looking for a Checkmate multi-tool so I could disassemble my direct thread Checkmate. I've never had it apart and can't get it apart without this tool. So far, all I have heard is crickets.

Would anyone here happen to have the Checkmate multi-tool that I could borrow so I can get this can apart for cleaning?

 

I've got one, too. You can borrow it next month at the Winston show if you want.

 

Awesome! I'll PM and we can swap contact info.

 

Thanks, I do have those parts but I think they only work with the QD mount.

 

This is what I am looking for:

 

Yeah, that is what I have but I don't see how it could possibly help me get the suppressor taken apart. I have a direct thread Checkmate. If you know of a way to do it, I would appreciate any and all help.

 

I've got the blue one, too. You are welcome to borrow it if it will work for you.

 

thanks Cubrock. I do have the blue thingy on a screw as well.


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I own a few griffin cans and I will never do business with them again. It has less to do with their products and more to do with them being assholes.

In the instructions for my revolution9 it states that you need to add red locktite to the back of the can when you put it in its short config prior to firing. Well, I did that, like many other users, and now the can is stuck in its K-configuration. When customers expressed that their cans were stuck and couldn’t be put back in the long configuration for a can that was advertised as being “modular” they had the balls to say something to the effect of “only an idiot would locktite that in place and expect to get it apart”. Well dipshit, we followed YOUR manual!

Fast forward and they came out with a rev2 that has indents in the collar to allow for removing this part of the suppressor with a tool. I don’t remember if they left the original customers high and dry or if they offered and upgrade for a fee to fix their mistake.

I usually don’t get my panties in a wad over improved versions coming out, but their attitude toward customers just plain sucks IMO. I now spend my money elsewhere, and the same with Q because he is also a douche.

 

They offered the fix for a fee - $50 or $60, I think. I lucked out and got one of the newer ones when I bought mine. I didn’t know there was a difference and was buying in the panicked lead-up to 41F. I had to take what was in stock.

I like my Griffin cans’ performance, but won’t be buying from them again now that I know more about the company.

 

I have a drawing of a spanner wrench that I designed for that purpose. I cut mine out of carbon fiber, but if you have means to cut it out of something (plastic, aluminum, etc) you're more than welcome to a 1:1 drawing to use as a template.

 

I appreciate the offer. That knowledge and skillset is slightly above my pay grade . At this point, I would pay for someone to make me something to get the can apart. If the photo you posted is what your checkmate actually looks like, it is a slightly different design that what I have. Here are pics of what I have:

 

Thanks, I do appreciate it. Let me know the next time you plan on being out at PHA and I'll meet you out there if I'm not working.

 

Hmm... Mine is older version (individual baffles) and was originally a QD model, that I purchased the direct thread adapter for (what you see in the CAD photo). I'd be interested to see what the internals look like, as the inlet side looks just like the quick detach end. The three posts in the takedown tool wont fit in those slots? Are you sure this is not a QD model? I couldn't find anything online for direct thread except the part in the photo I posted.

As far as the outlet side(below) goes, there is no tool that I have seen. I have always just used my palm to remove it and never tightened it too tight.

 

It looks like a QD model with the QD barrel adapter stuck in the rear end of the suppressor. Mine got stuck like that once and I wound up threading it off the gun. Squirted some penetrating oil in it, threaded it back on the gun, then was able to get it off the way it was supposed to.

Griffin's manual says the outlet side is supposed to come off without tools.

 

Yeah that's what I was seeing as well. It looks like if it was threaded back onto a host you could pull it outwards and rotate it off the lugs. That's why I'm curious to know what that piece looks like on the inside if it is a direct thread model. I don't understand why you'd have the lug slots in a direct thread model.

Edit: Also the outlet side will come off easier once the inlet side is removed.

 

The direct thread end looks like this:

 

That is a QD version.

 

Here is my Checkmate completely disassembled.
I have never disassembled it as outlined in the instructions.

Put it on the host gun, grab a hold of the body of the suppressor, unscrew it. If its stuck a small strap wrench should break it free, The QD side of the suppressor will stay on the gun, and you can dump out the spring and shiny metal collar.
The end cap should just unscrew from there. If you need to use the disassembly tool, screw it in and turn it to push out the baffles, I usually can just push them out.


This end is for attaching the QD mount to the host. This side is for getting the QD end off the suppressor if you don't like my approach.

When I got my can I was confused because I couldn't find one of the mounts, It was in the can and looks a lot like @ncav8tor picture.

Often I have to push the suppressor down on a hard surface to get the spring to depress for attachment or removal.

If you are in the Raleigh / Sanford area and want to borrow the tool, let me know.

 

I usually take mine apart the same way you do.

 

Is the gun a compact?

 

Full-size M&P 22

 

NCMedic, RockRiver and Cubrock are all correct and I am a dumbass .

I was finally able to get it apart using NCMedic's suggestions. I marred up the the barrel just a smidge but it is apart and in my ultrasonic cleaner. I always assumed I had a direct thread model because I had always just threaded it on anything I used it on. Thanks for the help guys!

 

Awesome!