Hardware question

BigWaylon

BigWaylon

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Haven't gone to browse the hardware aisle, yet...figured I'd ask here first.

If I had a cabinet on wheels that I wanted to attach the wall, but be able to roll it around without a whole lot of effort, what kind of options are our there? I'd like it to be secured to the wall, not just attached for the sake of it not accidently rolling anywhere.

My thought was to drill two holes in the back (to line up with two studs), and then attach it from inside the cabinet. I'd like to have something that screwed into the studs and was threaded so I could simply use wingnuts on the inside.

I guess I could buy lag bolts and cut the heads off after I screwed them into the studs, but figured there may be other options out there. Open to ideas....thanks in advance.
 
What you describe sounds like a lot of work in order to transition from fixed to mobile. What about locking casters and forego the wall attachment? OR - bolt a length of flat steel to the back side of your box so that it protrudes a couple of inches past the box on each side, and then use hanger bolts and wingnuts to secure it? That way you would not have to pull drawers out in order to make the box mobile.
 
Is the cabinet metal? Could you mount a couple of neodymium magnets to the wall? Those magnets are pretty stout, not sure how “mounted” the cabinet needs to be.
 
Sounds like you're looking for hanger bolts.

https://www.homedepot.com/p/5-16-18...el-Plain-Hanger-Bolts-2-Pack-809371/204273745

specialty-bolts-809371-64_1000.jpg
 
I agree with Jeppo. Hanger bolts would be probably the best solution. Another option could be a french cleat on the wall. Then to remove it, all you'd have to do is to lift up the wall side and roll it away. To make it would require no hardware- you could just take a 4" strip of wood (maybe 1/2 or 3/4" thick and rip it down the middle at a 45 degree angle. Screw one side on the wall and screw the other one on the back of the cabinet so that they lock together. It's really secure and easy to lift off if you need to.
 
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I grew up in a furniture factory stock room and eventually became the buyer so I'm pretty good with hardware bits and pieces. You didn't ask but here's how I'd do it:

  • Drill into the studs and insert the hanger bolts. You might need to thread a couple nuts onto the bolts in order to tighten them into the studs.
  • Locate the position of the holes on the cabinet back. I'd either bang the cabinet against the wall to dimple the back or dab some paint on the end of the hanger bolts so the paint would transfer to the back of the cabinet.
  • Drill grossly over-sized holes in the cabinet back. This would forgive the likelihood that I didn't get the hanger bolts perfectly square with the wall. Having large holes would also make it easier to "find the holes" when it is time to attach the cabinet.
  • Use fender washers on each side (against the wall and between the cabinet back & the wing nut). The washers would "hide" the monster holes and make everything secure.

https://www.homedepot.com/p/Everbil...eel-Fender-Washer-6-per-Pack-802431/204276339
 
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If the cabinet really weighs 1500 pounds, you ain't gonna "be able to roll it around without a whole lot of effort" as you want. If that's the case, put the cabinet in position against the wall, load it with your 1400 pounds of crap and call it a day. It ain't goin' nowhere! :D
 
@Jeppo
Jeppo said:
If the cabinet really weighs 1500 pounds, you ain't gonna "be able to roll it around without a whole lot of effort" as you want. If that's the case, put the cabinet in position against the wall, load it with your 1400 pounds of crap and call it a day. It ain't goin' nowhere! :D
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It currently weighs 1200+ and I can move it around freely. Think repurposed gun safe on wheels, like a massive tool chest. (ETA: so the cabinet is a majority of the weight, not the contents)

I'd like to be able to move it if needed, but have it pretty much screwed into the studs when it's in position...which is what the hanger bolts and wingnuts will give me.

I don't want massively oversized holes in it. So, I'm thinking 1/2" holes in the back. Roll it into position. Use 3/8" hanger bolts. Drill pilot holes from inside cabinet into studs. That way I'll know its lined up. And was planning on fender washers as well.
 
Yeah, that'll work as long as you figure out how to get the pilot holes inside the cabinet to be in the center of the studs. If you figure out how to do that, let me know. :confused:

My way is quick and dirty. When I said massively oversized, you could try the 1/2 inch holes and if that doesn't work, slowly bore them out until you get it to work. Whatever size hole you drill, the fender washer will take care of everything. There is no way that cabinet can move as long as the fender washer OD is larger than the holes you drilled.
 
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And the next question will probably be around the best way to drills the holes in 1/4" steel. :D
 
BigWaylon said:
And the next question will probably be around the best way to drills the holes in 1/4" steel. :D
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I'm thinkin' 44 magnum. But you're gonna need bigger fender washers. ;)
 
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Jeppo said:
Yeah, that'll work as long as you figure out how to get the pilot holes inside the cabinet to be in the center of the studs. If you figure out how to do that, let me know. :confused:
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Luckily it has about 2" of side-to-side movement where it's sitting. I figured I'd locate the stud, measure from the outer edge to the stud and the drill the hole in the back of the cabinet from the outside to get the proper measurement. Then measure the center of the studs at the height I want to make sure they're 16", and drill the second hole in the cabinet using that measurement.

I can easily mark up the wall to make sure I'm in the right spot. Gonna be a whole lot of measure 3x and drill once going on.
 
Okie Dokie

My dad used to joke, "I keep cutting it off and it's still too short". :eek:
 
Anyway, you can do it your way and then oversize the holes/fender washers (my way) in case you're off on the holes. I guarantee that, as long as the fender washer OD is a good bit bigger than the hole, that thing isn't moving once you cinch it up.
 
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Does it have a lip at the rear or can you drill a hole in the top? If so mount a dead bolt to the wall and slide it down over the lip/hole to lock down.

4bb32d_053110.jpg

You're building an Ark, aren't you?
 
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I'd do this, the hasp screwed to the wall and the lock part to the cabinet.

image.jpeg
 
I was thinking a kind of pinned hinge. One part stays on Wall the other on the side of the cabinet. Use a large pin to join them


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
Covfefe said:
I missed the mention that it was 1500 lbs.- I don't think you'll be doing any lifting it off a cleat with that kind of weight.... Hanger bolts.
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Yeah...I probably should've mentioned that up front. :oops:
 
BigWaylon said:
And the next question will probably be around the best way to drills the holes in 1/4" steel. :D
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It's time for me to get around to this, and I don't think anybody answered this one.

Is a corded drill and a decent drill bit going to allow me to drill two, maybe four, holes in 1/4" steel?
 
BigWaylon said:
It's time for me to get around to this, and I don't think anybody answered this one.

Is a corded drill and a decent drill bit going to allow me to drill two, maybe four, holes in 1/4" steel?
Click to expand...

Yes. Start with a good center punch and a smaller pilot drill. Buy higher quality machinist rated drill bits from a local industrial supply house. Also don’t let the bit spin too fast or you risk work hardening the metal. A few drops of a quality tapping and cutting fluid will help.

My only concern with the approach that you’re taking would be the ease of precisely lining the rolling cabinet up with the hanger bolts. I know my larger rolling toolboxes weigh in that same range and it is difficult to precisely position them when moving.
 
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