Headstamps
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I suspect that's a LAX Ammo factory new case.
The only 9x19 cases I actively avoid are stepped cases, but YMMV.
The only 9x19 cases I actively avoid are stepped cases, but YMMV.
https://forum.cartridgecollectors.org/t/two-new-to-me-9mm-luger-headstamps/22705/4
In 9mm, I avoid all the ones with internal steps, like AMMOLOAD, IMT, FM, and Maxtech. I don’t like dealing with NATO brass since the primers are crimped and the crimps have to be removed, but I usually save them separately and swage them all at once. I also avoid any AMERC brass in any caliber.
In 9mm, I avoid all the ones with internal steps, like AMMOLOAD, IMT, FM, and Maxtech. I don’t like dealing with NATO brass since the primers are crimped and the crimps have to be removed, but I usually save them separately and swage them all at once. I also avoid any AMERC brass in any caliber.
I load basically everything. CBC fails gauge more than not, really bad with .357+ dia bullets. There's one brand with a huge internal step, powder charge doesn't fit, IIRC my bullets don't seat to depth either, those go to scrap, don't see many. I have had exactly one case failure, some domestic brand blew out at the extractor groove. YMMV I ain't wasting time sorting pistol brass.
I scrounge all kinds of brass at the range, and I have to make sure I sort out the stepped, 380, and 9mak cases, so I use the following method. It is also easy to flip over the brass and pick out the headstamps as well:
OP
Thanks all.
Never heard of LAX ammo and these are the first ones that I've seen. Not familiar with stepped brass and havn't run across any that I know of.
I'm just getting started in reloading, and OCD to begin with. Heard/read some people say they do and some that don't sort.
I know I've got lots to learn and my goal is just to make good, safe, consistent ammo.
My thinking was since I am just starting out that I would try and remove any variables that I could, so separate them and work one headstamp at a time.
Maybe have a more consistent feel in the press round to round. I don't know if it makes any difference or not but thought I would try it.
I'm not sorting huge quantities at this point so it's not taking a bunch of time.
I will try that. I knew I saved those trays for something!!!
Never heard of LAX ammo and these are the first ones that I've seen. Not familiar with stepped brass and havn't run across any that I know of.
I'm just getting started in reloading, and OCD to begin with. Heard/read some people say they do and some that don't sort.
I know I've got lots to learn and my goal is just to make good, safe, consistent ammo.
My thinking was since I am just starting out that I would try and remove any variables that I could, so separate them and work one headstamp at a time.
Maybe have a more consistent feel in the press round to round. I don't know if it makes any difference or not but thought I would try it.
I'm not sorting huge quantities at this point so it's not taking a bunch of time.
EDIT: After watching that I see I am taking a bunch of time. Thanks for posting @Toprudder
I will try that. I knew I saved those trays for something!!!
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Extra attention to detail never hurt when reloading. Personally, I sort cases by headstamp, but I'm also only set up for 9 at the moment (.223 in the future and maybe 40/10 eventually).
I've considered buying an expensive camera with a decent zoom function and pairing that with some machine learning image processing python modules to sort them automatically. Way easier said than done (on the hardware side at least), though.
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I use the MTM 45acp ammo boxes with the hinged lids. I can drop the cases all in, look for short cases (380 and 9mak) or long cases (38 super) or look down inside for stepped cases. Then I can close the lid, flip it over, open the box with the lid down on the bench, and pick them out by headstamps if I want (I generally just look for NATO headstamps so I can set them aside to swage the primer pockets).
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Ikarus1
Avtomat Krishna-kov
Avoid GFL aka Fiocchi cases like the plague. They are well known to have offset primer holes in multiple calibers/cartridges. I've personally seen this in 9mm, .223, .45 acp and .45 colt. I will no longer pick them up and they go straight to the scrap pile.
I don't even buy Fiocchi ammo.
I don't even buy Fiocchi ammo.
Perfecta in 223 has the same problem. Besides possibly breaking a decapping pin, I have not been able to tell how an off-center flash hole affects performance, at least in handgun ammo. I need to find some and test it to see if there is a difference.
Field and stream. “F&S” head-stamped 5.56 is the worst. Undersized and off center flash hole. I’ve got about 200 pieces that I’ve deprimed and reamed out the flash hole when it was crappy outside and I needed something to do
Yes, I've run across those. They bind up on my decapping pin. Since I don't find that many of them, I generally throw them in the scrap bag when I do. I can pick up 223 whenever I want so I can be a little picky. If I had enough of them, I would drill out the flash holes and use them.
OP
So yeah, I'm crazy enuff to sort by headstamp. At least the first time around.
So far these are the suspects in my bins, with comments from this thread regarding some of them.
Aguila
Blazer
CBC-------will fail gauge
FC
FM--------came across just 1 case and it does appear to be stepped brass.
GFL-------has offset primer holes
Hornady
LAX
PPU
PMC
R-P--------2 variants, I assume this means manufactured at different facility
Ruger
S&B
SIG
Speer
WCC
WIN
WMA------2 variants, same as R-P
Xtreme
So is it safe to assume I can run these and should stay away from ones in red?
Pictures on the way....
This is the case stamped FM and is what I'm assuming y'all are calling stepped brass?
I notice the different sized characters so I'm assuming different facilities made them?Does it mean anything else?
And same thing with these.
And are these examples of crimped in primers??
At least the first time around.So far these are the suspects in my bins, with comments from this thread regarding some of them.
Aguila
Blazer
CBC-------will fail gauge
FC
FM--------came across just 1 case and it does appear to be stepped brass.
GFL-------has offset primer holes
Hornady
LAX
PPU
PMC
R-P--------2 variants, I assume this means manufactured at different facility
Ruger
S&B
SIG
Speer
WCC
WIN
WMA------2 variants, same as R-P
Xtreme
So is it safe to assume I can run these and should stay away from ones in red?
Pictures on the way....
This is the case stamped FM and is what I'm assuming y'all are calling stepped brass?
I notice the different sized characters so I'm assuming different facilities made them?Does it mean anything else?
And same thing with these.
And are these examples of crimped in primers??
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So yeah, I'm crazy enuff to sort by headstamp.
So far these are the suspects in my bins, with comments from this thread regarding some of them.
Aguila
Blazer
CBC-------will fail gauge
FC
FM--------came across just 1 case and it does appear to be stepped brass.
GFL-------has offset primer holes
Hornady
LAX
PPU
PMC
R-P--------2 variants, I assume this means manufactured at different facility
Ruger
S&B
SIG
Speer
WCC
WIN
WMA------2 variants, same as R-P
Xtreme
So is it safe to assume I can run these and should stay away from ones in red?
Pictures on the way....
This is the case stamped FM and is what I'm assuming y'all are calling stepped brass?
View attachment 197934
I notice the different sized characters so I'm assuming different facilities made them?Does it mean anything else?
View attachment 197935 View attachment 197936
And same thing with these.
And are these examples of crimped in primers??
Yep, that FM case is a stepped case.
I've noticed a difference between R-P and R•P•, but I still separate them, personally.
You'll eventually come across •FC•, same deal with those and FC, more or less interchangeable as far as I can tell.
I believe WMA is typically crimped, but personally I just throw those in a bucket with all the other headstamps I don't load currently.
Personally, I maintain the following bins:
- WIN
- FC
- •FC•
- Blazer
- •Blazer•
- R-P
- R•P•
The really big issue with mixed brass is in rifle reloading or in any high pressure cartridge. Case internal dimensions can and do vary. That's why the reloading manuals specify what brass they used in their load development.
ronn47
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I wouldn't change the size.
But cleaning up the inside of the cast where it was punched thru would help to make the primer flash more of a smoother jet into the powder charge.
OP
I notice that some of them appear quite rough, as opposed to some that look very precise. But I suppose some of it is trash, dirt or whatnot.
So then would it be better to deprime them before cleaning/tumbling?
ronn47
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Yes, I deprime and then run them thru the tumbler.
Clean out the primer pocket.
I used a new long 1/4" drill bit on my 7.62 x 51 cases hand held so I could feel what I was doing.
It took a while as I processed 600 LC match cases.
I did it in small batches while watching the news/weather/radio.