How hard is it?????????

KnotRight

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No Chad, not that!

I know that it is not hard to do if you done it before. Tonight, I went to get my boat from the marina and when I plugged the trailer lights in there was a spark and had no trailer lights. It was too dark to check the fuse which is my guess.
I have been thinking about replacing the trailer lights with LED lights but nobody really does it around here. How hard is it to replace the lights when you buy a complete setup?
 
Pretty easy on most of them depending on the wire routing. If inside the frame use old wires to pull new wire through.
Trailer wires have a simple color code. Just changing the lights and leaving the wire if in good shape may be an option.
Use weather proof heat shrink type connectors, shrink them after they're crimped, and do not under any circumstance use scotch-locks/T-taps for anything, ever.
 
I have been looking at light packages and really do not see any that have the side markers. Or at less they do not show them in the detail. My main concern is the mounting of lights to the trailer and making sure the wiring does not fall from the frame. The tail lights that I have now fit into some type of frame.
 
Not hard really, just takes time if you're mildly handy.

The best thing you can ever do to a boat trailer, especially one that is in salt is to remove the trailer from the electrical circuit. That is, run a separate ground from your trailer connector to each light. This requires buying lights that connections that are seperate from and do not use the stud as the ground. When you remove the trailer from the circuit, you get rid of the corrison issues assuming you've sealed up your connections and use LEDs. Also go with sealed LED's as they are less shock sensitive than standard glass blubs. I think it cost me right around $100 to do for the skiff trailer with some left over wire to do my jon boat trailer as well.

Most "kits" are too short by 2-4' and usually are the wrong pin-out. What I have done and recommend to everyone is this. Order a 100' roll of 4strand trailer wire, LED lights (back/brake & running), and a 100' roll of 16g wire in white (this will be your ground), heat shrink, marine grade butt-splices (Ancor brand) and a trailer connector that you can attach the wires into (now days the round 7-way are the way to go for most newer trucks).

When you pull out the old wiring, cut the wire from the front and pull the new wire back or cut the wires at the old lights, tie on and tape tightly some strong nylon twine and pull the twine forward.

List of items:
Trailer wire https://www.northerntool.com/shop/tools/product_1016438_1016438
ground wire (couldn't find the 16g link) https://www.lowes.com/pd/Southwire-...White-Copper-THHN-Wire-By-the-Roll/1000777290
spare wire for clearance lights (hot side) buy the red version of the ground wire above (25' should do if you just have one on each side.
Connector https://www.lowes.com/pd/Reese-Connector-7-Way-Plastic-Trailer-End/50437620
Brake lights (I think these were it) https://www.agrisupply.com/trailer-light/p/84624/ https://www.agrisupply.com/trailer-light/p/84623/
splices https://www.westmarine.com/buy/ancor--heat-shrink-butt-connectors--P009_275_004_003?recordNum=2
heat shrink 3/8" black will work https://www.westmarine.com/buy/anco...ink-tubing-kits--P009_275_003_508?recordNum=1

Let me see if I can find my wiring diagrams I drew up.
 
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tod0987, that was another concern that I had was the wire would be too short. So you buy each component of the setup and not the complete package.
 
tod0987, that was another concern that I had was the wire would be too short. So you buy each component of the setup and not the complete package.

Yes Learned the hard way the kits are for your backyard debris trailers and not well off for boat trailers. It's like the AR's of today, yes you can buy a generic one that will spit out 556 for $600, but it is only soso. Or,you can buy all the components the way you want it for $1000, put them together and know it does what you want and how you want it to.

Using the listed above I wired a 21' Skiff and 17' jon. Yes it was some money, but the piece of mind of not having to worry about them crapping out during a trip or at the first of the season is worth it.

As far as your question on the running lights on the sides, I believe I ran a pair forward to each light, but I'd have to check my diagram. It's been 3-4 yrs.
 
The side marker lights are typically not included, they need to be purchased separately. Make sure to have a red marker just behind the last axle and keep amber lights forward of the leading axle.... And I don't use crimp connections of any kind, make a mechanical connection (firmly twist) and solder with heat shrink over the junction.
 
There may be a regulator for the led blinkers, there is when modifying motercycle turn signals.

I just changed out my flasher when converting my bike to full LED. Much easier than splicing in a regulator at every bulb.
 
When I did the lights for my 19ft bay boat aluminum trailer that saw nothing but saltwater, I got the LED kit from Northern Tool. I had plenty of wire and as it was said, you a separate ground circuit, not the trailer. I also left enough wire to cut and replace lights in the future. Used solder and heat shrink and was very happy. Only failure I had was a light got knocked off at the ramp one day. Guy actually left a note and made it right.
 
Its not to bad as others mentioned but I will say with the leds drawing such low current a good ground becomes important so running dedicated ground wires is a very good idea and recommended instead of depending on a chasis ground. Its not hard just becomes time consuming if you end up running new wiring and making solid sealed connections.
 
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