I will be needing to pour a concrete slab...

IrishCannon

IrishCannon

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I've never done this before, and it's absolutely imperative the slab is level. It will likely be about 16' x 10 '...maybe 20' x 10'. Would this be too much of a headache for a first time attempt? If I hired a contractor, what am I looking at for material+labor cost?
 
It will be hard to get a concrete guy to come do that little bit. If you understand how to set up the forms, read a level, and know how to operate a shovel and rake you can figure out the rest.

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Most concrete trucks that send concrete from a plant have a 3 yard minimum but if you can find a truck that mixes the concrete on site they usually charge by the 1/4 or 1/2 yard.

A 10x16 is about 2 yards and a 10x20 is about 2.5 yards.
 
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I could probably increase it a bit, it doesn't have to be exactly that size, that was just an estimate. More is not a bad thing. It's for an outdoor fitness rig. The rig is 70" x 42" and I'll want about 8ft on either side for dual lifters, but more real estate is never bad.
 
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IrishCannon said:
I've never done this before, and it's absolutely imperative the slab is level. It will likely be about 16' x 10 '...maybe 20' x 10'. Would this be too much of a headache for a first time attempt? If I hired a contractor, what am I looking at for material+labor cost?
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best quotes I had were for about $1400. I poured it myself. Materials only. It was not as bad as I thought it would be. My advice is to talk to some concrete guys and get a THOROUGH list of materials and procedures. I took my time (almost 5 months) before I did it. Built the forms, leveled them out, put the gravel in and then the pour and finish took less than a whole day. I rented a mixer and mixed the bags up rather than bring in a truck for such a small job.
Mine was 12x14

It is not an old man's job, tho! :)
 
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Yeah, concrete is one of those simple materials. But it's all about the details or it becomes a nightmare.

The forms and area prep are about 90 percent of the job.

Square and level forms(if water can get on it a touch of angle so it can flow) are important. But the most important advice I can give is forms can NEVER have to much bracing. Spend some time and effort to make sure your forms can't move during a pour.

Also invest in some cheap rubber boots. Concrete will kill leather and sneakers will get you chemical burns. You will be out in it to level it. Spend $20 at the garden store.
 
Concrete really is pretty easy. As has been said it’s all about laying in the forms correctly. After that, a strong back and a couple of friends with strong backs and you’re all set.

You can watch videos on you tube. But basically you just need 1x4’s to lay down and level for the form. Then some rebar stakes to hammer in about every 2-4 ft from the corners out.

When the concrete is poured you stand in the form and pull with a concrete rake, hoe or shovel until the form is filled.

Then you take a 2x4 that’s long enough to hang over the form by a couple of feet and you saw it back and forth to pull and level the slab.

After that a float and edge tool as well as a joint tool is all you need to finish it. If you want a brushed finish then a stiff push broom at the end.

All of the finishing tools can be rented from Home Depot.
 
Its amazing what can be accomplished just by talkin to folks.
We had a small pour like what you're describing. I built the forms and put the rebar and gravel in. Went and spoke to the local concrete dude. Told him I knew it was a little job and not worth his time for the one little lone pour. Let him know I wasnt in any kind of hurry, but that the next time he was on the way back from a big pour with a couple yards left in the truck, stop by.
Took about four weeks, but I got my wish and got the concrete for a song. His fellers even leveled and finished it.
 
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Not sure where you are, but lots of concrete guys are struggling to even get concrete in the CLT metro. Your best bet, as mentioned above, would be to search for one of those mix on site trucks for less than 10 yds.
 
Rent or borrow a transit, set the forms level , put several grade stakes in the center , find a nice straight board that will easily go from stakes to outside of board . You will need one helper or 2
Wet the base down before pouring the Crete - not soak just dampen it
Pour early before sun beats down on it - hopefully on a day it doesn’t rain or get blazing hot

I just had 7 yards delivered last summer from a ready mix company and did a patio with steps

Tools needed - bull float , hand float , trowel and edger ( rent or borrow )
 
Concrete work isn't difficult, and I know it's already been said several times but it's worth repeating:

It's all in the set up.

Prep your pour site...properly graded and the right amount of gravel. Set your forms up and make d*mn sure you don't skimp on making them solid. Levels aren't hard to use.

When it comes time for the pour, be ready with the proper safety precautions. Concrete is caustic...do NOT kid yourself about this. Years ago when I volunteered at a hospital, I got to see a patient with chemical burns from the knees down on both legs from exactly this kind of job. Gloves and tall rubber boots. And clean up immediately afterwards.

Since you haven't done it before, I'd recommend having someone who has come and help. Two people will make it much easier, anyway. And I'm sure there are videos on how-to.

Remember...concrete SETS ("cures"), it doesn't "dry". It's a chemical reaction. And your job isn't near being finished after the pour is done. It'll take upwards of 28 days for the curing to complete and during that time keeping the concrete watered several times a day is essential to keeping it going and achieving maximum strength. Failure to promptly and properly follow up with this can result in a weak, crumbly, crack-prone slab.

And finally...pictures of the project are mandatory!
 
One thing on the prep side of things is be sure the dirt under your slab is not grass/organic material or uncompacted fill dirt. The better job you do at this the less chance of the slab cracking later on. If you have to fill in best is gravel but less expensive option is sandrock and compact it well. You want a uniform level base so that you can estimate the amount of concrete needed and not run out or buy extra unless your mixing onsite but either way it can add up quickly at 140-200 dollars a yard just for the concrete.
 
vp9c said:
Just in to be part of a “murder” thread…

Fwiw I watch a lot of forensic files and they always dig up the newly poured slab
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That's why you plant endangered species on any graves you dig, can't dig those up.
 
There are several things to consider. Does it really need to be level? Perfectly level is hard to achieve.

If it's going to be exposed to weather you'll want some slope to it to keep real from puddeling and ice from sheeting too bad.

If it is going to be under roof you will need the perimeter to be thicker than the slab for weight dispersal.

You probably need to do a rebar grid to keep it from crumbling due to freeze / thaw cycles.

A large slab would need joint lines cut in to keep it from cracking.

Is an inspector going to ever see it? I had a 12' x 20' poured and got crap from them on it.
 
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