Inexpensive mobile radio advice

NCLivingBrit

NCLivingBrit

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I'm still plugging away at the Technician licence material, but it's slow going so far due to time constraints due to new second job and my brain being rusty.

The benefit of this is my budget is about to become an actual, real sum of money in the next few weeks so I've been looking around at more capable options than my UV5R with a knockoff Nagoya 771 for 2m/70cm.

So I've got a couple of questions and then a general solicitation for advice and guidance. Operating wise I'm not planning on doing much more than rag chews on whatever repeaters I can hit from Reidsville at present, stuff like Dstar and FT8 just doesn't appeal right now. I'm in a second (top) floor apt with a balcony and I absolutely can't mount anything outside the apt. I have roof/loft access but I can't make holes to route cables so I'm not sure that is any use.

Question 1: Are the inexpensive (~$70) units by QYT, Juentai, Leixen etc worth a purchase as a home/car radio? They seem to be mostly in the 20-25 watt range and have some decent reviews.

Examples:

https://rover.ebay.com/rover/0/0/0?mpre=https://www.ebay.com/ulk/itm/142247329890

https://rover.ebay.com/rover/0/0/0?mpre=https://www.ebay.com/ulk/itm/282595520192

https://rover.ebay.com/rover/0/0/0?mpre=https://www.ebay.com/ulk/itm/323385270194

https://rover.ebay.com/rover/0/0/0?mpre=https://www.ebay.com/ulk/itm/131278746194

I'm thinking I want a "base" radio that can/could be vehicle mounted since I'm allowed to have a vehicle antenna with a lot less hassle than any sort of building mount or free standing antenna where I'm living.

If the QYT etc aren't any good, can I get a decent radio in the $100-200~ price range for 2m/70cm? Ideally something I can get a decent programming cable for without breaking the bank.

Question 2: Assuming I've got a 20-25 watt base 2m/70cm radio that is probably starting off on my porch (~7' clearance vertically) before moving to my vehicle, what is a decent mag-mount antenna that won't break the bank? I've done a bunch of research and the deluge of options and different opinions has me baffled. I figure the budget will be about $100.

Right now I'm not looking to build my own antenna at all. I know this makes me some sort of filthy untouchable radio peasant, but there's a ton of reasons I'm not feeling it yet.

I realise mag-mount is going to be a compromise compared to other antenna types but I'm currently valuing flexibility and not angering the apt police over perfection. When used on the porch I'll be using some sort of steel ground reflector on a second floor balcony with plastic railings.

Question 3: Power supply? Since the radio is designed to for vehicle mount, what's the best inexpensive way to provide the required power? I've got mains outlets on the porch.

Question 4: What did I forget I am going to need? I'm hoping to get an antenna already tuned so I don't think I'll need a SWR meter yet, right?

Am I missing some other way to set this up that is in the same ballpark budget with better performance?

Thanks in advance for any input. I know I seem to be made of questions.
 
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I'll let you know on 1, as I should get a QYT tomorrow. For the price, it's almost a disposable radio like the UV5's are. 25 watts is PLENTY of power for repeater chats.

For a starter antenna for 2m, it's going to be hard to beat a dual band mag mount to get going. You can get fancy later. If you use the mag mount at the house, it's going to need to sit on something metal (porch rail, AC unit, etc). Don't get wound up about fancy right now.

Home use and 25 watts, you'll need a 120VAC to 12VDC power supply. If you're short on funds, some of those switching supplies on Amazon that are in the perforated metal enclosures are cheap and will work. If you've got more money , a 7-10 amp 12V power supply will do the job. A 5A one will PROBABLY do the job, but with less margin.

Correct on #4.!

Keep the questions coming!
John
 
I have a dual band Kenwood I got 20 years ago, I mounted the mobile bracket to a thin sheet of pegboard that
fits inside a laptop case, I run the seatbelt through the handle to keep it in place on the passenger seat.
I ran fused #6 THHN stranded from the battery along the path the hood release takes to get inside the 'cabin'.
You will need a good regulated linear power supply (prevents hum on your signal) or a good switching power supply.
25W is sufficient power, doubling your power will not make much of an increase in your signal.
 
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Buy a good brand radio. Icom, Kenwood or Yaesu. The TM-281 is a great radio.

If you want a UHF radio, I have a Kenwood TK-880 Version 2 UHF radio I can program up for you and include a UHF mag mount antenna for $100. It is a commercial radio but does the ham bands also.

You can find a 15 amp power supply from Astron pretty cheap used. Under $50.
 
JohnFreeman said:
I'll let you know on 1, as I should get a QYT tomorrow. For the price, it's almost a disposable radio like the UV5's are. 25 watts is PLENTY of power for repeater chats.
Click to expand...

Cool, I'm interested to see what you think.

For a starter antenna for 2m, it's going to be hard to beat a dual band mag mount to get going. You can get fancy later. If you use the mag mount at the house, it's going to need to sit on something metal (porch rail, AC unit, etc). Don't get wound up about fancy right now.
Click to expand...

Got any suggestions for specific models? Or just stick with anything appropriate spec from a name brand?

Home use and 25 watts, you'll need a 120VAC to 12VDC power supply. If you're short on funds, some of those switching supplies on Amazon that are in the perforated metal enclosures are cheap and will work. If you've got more money , a 7-10 amp 12V power supply will do the job. A 5A one will PROBABLY do the job, but with less margin.
Click to expand...

Sounds like I should have saved those big server PC power supplies I had....

Correct on #4.!

Keep the questions coming!
John
Click to expand...

Will do lol
 
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Button Pusher said:
I have a dual band Kenwood I got 20 years ago, I mounted the mobile bracket to a thin sheet of pegboard that
fits inside a laptop case, I run the seatbelt through the handle to keep it in place on the passenger seat.
I ran fused #6 THHN stranded from the battery along the path the hood release takes to get inside the 'cabin'.
You will need a good regulated linear power supply (prevents hum on your signal) or a good switching power supply.
25W is sufficient power, doubling your power will not make much of an increase in your signal.
Click to expand...

Cool, thanks for the input. My Mazda head unit is dying and to swap it out for a new surround shell and MP3 head unit means there will be plenty of space for a radio mount.
 
IMBOBK said:
Buy a good brand radio. Icom, Kenwood or Yaesu. The TM-281 is a great radio.

If you want a UHF radio, I have a Kenwood TK-880 Version 2 UHF radio I can program up for you and include a UHF mag mount antenna for $100. It is a commercial radio but does the ham bands also.

You can find a 15 amp power supply from Astron pretty cheap used. Under $50.
Click to expand...

Anything you'd recommend in a dual band that would fit your suggested brands?

Thanks for the info on power supply, I was totally at sea.
 
Project radio offer withdrawn, unable to locate. Must have already sold it. Sorry.
 
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Agree on used supplies, but don't discount switchers. If you were closer I'd lend you one to try on yours. I hear more crappy 2m signals due to 60 cycle hum from old dried up filter capacitors than I do with switching noise. You'll need 5 Amps and up to run a 25 watt output radio.

The problem with asking about "is a Baofeng OK" (or QYT... or a Kahr , or a KelTec) is that inevitably you'll hear "if you'll only pay twice as much, you'll get a better unit".

This may or may not be true (ALL brands are made in China these days?) but it's not the question that's asked. I've got 40 years of 2m radios under my belt. They all have their quirks, but for someone with budget limitations, you'll do OK with the affordable radios. If you buy it thru amazon and it croaks, they'll take it back. If it lasts a year and you want to upgrade to a fancier radio, you'll get very nearly your money back out of them (which you WONT on the more expensive Kenwood/Yaesu/Icom). I have / have had KenSuCom 2m radios and while their manuals are more comprehensible, they ALL make repeater contacts about the same as my BaoFeng .

You can get on the air with a UV5R. You can double its range by substituting a 19" piece of coathanger for the rubber dummy load it (and all other HT's ) come with. You can triple it's range by making a 3 element yagi out of PVC and coathangers.

You can spend as little or as much as you want, but I'd recommend getting on the air and trying stuff as soon as you can.

John
 
IMBOBK said:
If you want a project radio, I have a Kenwood V7A that has the lines in the display defect that you can have for free. I got it for free and only powered it on and found the display issue.
Click to expand...

Sure, thanks! Not like I could hurt it any worse than it already is, right? I did a little Googling and found the replacement LED kits, but one guy said he made lines better by messing with the ribbon cable, so there's a starting point.
 
I have a QYT KT-8900D. It works with Chirp software, has 4 line multicolor display with quad-watch (listening to 4 channels simultaneously) it has a quality Kenwood type mic, the heatsink has a fan that cycles in and off occasionally and quietly during long QSOs. And it was $70

So....sure maybe a $300 Kenwood dual bander is better, but I guarantee its made in Singapore with Chinese made ICs.

Just an opinion as a new licensed ham, Put more money in a radio transceiver after you figure out the hobby is for you. You will always be able to sell that QYT for $70 lol.

And the quality is on par with the Japanese radios from 10-20 years back. I know I took one apart for having a bad final stage last night...sucky Toshiba ICs got hot and cracked since the radio had NO COOLING fan on a 50W amplifier heatsink...
 
also I contemplated using a PC power supply, but I bought a 14amp Jetstream switching power with dual meters for $59 on Fleabay. It works great. Also you can get smaller power supplies with the built in cigarette style connector since you won't be transmitting until after you get your ticket. They're easy and portable.

https://rover.ebay.com/rover/0/0/0?mpre=https://www.ebay.com/ulk/itm/332744484266

https://rover.ebay.com/rover/0/0/0?mpre=https://www.ebay.com/ulk/itm/253220868049

BTW the QYT I have only draws 8.5amp on full TX power, and like 500mA on RX so you don't really needs a powerhouse unit.

As far as vehicle mounts I made my my own steel bracket and drilled a hole for an NMO Mount. Not ideal behind the cab mount but I can use a longer antenna and still be discrete.

Something like this Tram NMO magnet and cable and whatever NMO antenna of your choice would work great. I like Comet, especially the SB-series, or the one with a built in spring base...

https://rover.ebay.com/rover/0/0/0?mpre=https://www.ebay.com/ulk/itm/173256988750
 
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Ikarus1 said:
also I contemplated using a PC power supply, but I bought a 14amp Jetstream switching power with dual meters for $59 on Fleabay. It works great. Also you can get smaller power supplies with the built in cigarette style connector since you won't be transmitting until after you get your ticket. They're easy and portable.

https://rover.ebay.com/rover/0/0/0?mpre=https://www.ebay.com/ulk/itm/332744484266

https://rover.ebay.com/rover/0/0/0?mpre=https://www.ebay.com/ulk/itm/253220868049

BTW the QYT I have only draws 8.5amp on full TX power, and like 500mA on RX so you don't really needs a powerhouse unit.

As far as vehicle mounts I made my my own steel bracket and drilled a hole for an NMO Mount. Not ideal behind the cab mount but I can use a longer antenna and still be discrete.

Something like this Tram NMO magnet and cable and whatever NMO antenna of your choice would work great. I like Comet, especially the SB-series, or the one with a built in spring base...

https://rover.ebay.com/rover/0/0/0?mpre=https://www.ebay.com/ulk/itm/173256988750
Click to expand...

Thanks!
 
full disclosure: my QYT never makes rated power. And the low setting is stupidly high, like 80% of high. I may crack it open and see if I can adjust. But my antenna setup is darn near perfect and I can hit repeaters 40+ miles away routinely on VHF.
ea15485a19f8193134298fe67893556c.jpg
470237ec2382adb6e97a59a82af0c8a5.jpg


Both of those on high power setting.

BTW yes my cheap SWR meter looks like a fisher price toy. But I compared it to some analog meters and its dead on accurate to within half a watt.
 
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Ikarus1 said:
full disclosure: my QYT never makes rated power. And the low setting is stupidly high, like 80% of high. I may crack it open and see if I can adjust. But my antenna setup is darn near perfect and I can hit repeaters 40+ miles away routinely on VHF.
ea15485a19f8193134298fe67893556c.jpg
470237ec2382adb6e97a59a82af0c8a5.jpg


Both of those on high power setting.

BTW yes my cheap SWR meter looks like a fisher price toy. But I compared it to some analog meters and its dead on accurate to within half a watt.
Click to expand...

Do any of these cheaper radios make rated power? I sort of assumed it was like MPG in a car, possible under only pure lab and ideal circumstances when the planets align and Cthuhlu gets out and pushes.

I am sort of sold on the QYT for now. It's cheap enough that if I do lose interest I won't be out a mess of funds.

That basic power adapter will work fine until I'm transmitting and will come in handy after an upgrade since I have a couple toys that have that plug on the charger and are a pain to charge because of it.

Now I just need to figure out which mag-mount to get and buy a nice big steel flat something to stick it on! I may still have some baking trays too big for my old oven in storage actually....
 
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not meaning to hijack - but is anyone on 2meters around w-s area?

i have tried listening in the evenings and never hear anyone on - radioshack htx-420 (internet photo but i have the same base unit and antenna

420.jpg
 
smithnwesley said:
not meaning to hijack - but is anyone on 2meters around w-s area?

i have tried listening in the evenings and never hear anyone on - radioshack htx-420 (internet photo but i have the same base unit and antenna

View attachment 76859
Click to expand...

I listened a lot, never heard much except the Vagabond ragchew and the odd convo on the W4GSO repeater. Then I was indoors with a UV5R and a knockoff Nagoya 771 lol
 
NCLivingBrit said:
Do any of these cheaper radios make rated power? I sort of assumed it was like MPG in a car, possible under only pure lab and ideal circumstances when the planets align and Cthuhlu gets out and pushes.

I am sort of sold on the QYT for now. It's cheap enough that if I do lose interest I won't be out a mess of funds.

That basic power adapter will work fine until I'm transmitting and will come in handy after an upgrade since I have a couple toys that have that plug on the charger and are a pain to charge because of it.

Now I just need to figure out which mag-mount to get and buy a nice big steel flat something to stick it on! I may still have some baking trays too big for my old oven in storage actually....
Click to expand...
I would look hard at the Tram 5" magnet nmo mount. If you decide to use it on the car it won't ever come off at highway speeds, even the autobahn ;)

Plus its fully encased in rubber so no scratching the car finish

Whatever you decide, get the tallest antenna you can live with...esp with VHF it makes the difference between barely getting in a repeater and full quieting.
 
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Ikarus1 said:
I would look hard at the Tram 5" magnet nmo mount. If you decide to use it on the car it won't ever come off at highway speeds, even the autobahn ;)

Plus its fully encased in rubber so no scratching the car finish

Whatever you decide, get the tallest antenna you can live with...esp with VHF it makes the difference between barely getting in a repeater and full quieting.
Click to expand...

Is there any particular reason to buy the mount and antenna separately rather than just find something that is already what I need?
 
Is there much difference between this Larsen NMO2/70B and something less pricey? Eham loves this thing.

https://www.dxengineering.com/parts/lsn-nmo2-70b


Also after peeking into the attic, I may have room for something like this

http://www.mfjenterprises.com/Product.php?productid=MFJ-1754

....if I can figure out how to bring a cable into the bedroom without being too obvious about it. Maybe I can run a feedline into the closet from above (which is right near the attic hatch) where it won't be seen and then out to my radio.....

Would that work inside an apt roof?


 
NCLivingBrit said:
Is there much difference between this Larsen NMO2/70B and something less pricey? Eham loves this thing.

https://www.dxengineering.com/parts/lsn-nmo2-70b


Also after peeking into the attic, I may have room for something like this

http://www.mfjenterprises.com/Product.php?productid=MFJ-1754

....if I can figure out how to bring a cable into the bedroom without being too obvious about it. Maybe I can run a feedline into the closet from above (which is right near the attic hatch) where it won't be seen and then out to my radio.....

Would that work inside an apt roof?
Click to expand...
Larsen makes great antennas. A little pricey. The Japanese antennas are just as good from what I gather...if you want super Exotic, get a Sirio from Italy, they look like artwork....
6996c4e18657fad1500e29059c98e166.jpg
 
Got my QYT today. The manual is the typical Changlish crap , but there's tons of info on the web.
It has the tiniest little muffin fan on it I've ever seen, but moving air over an aluminum heat sink is all you need (and the chassis, is one big heat sink).

The radio is about the same size as two stacked decks of cards. I'll give it a go tomorrow and see how it works. I've got an Icom 2m rig but I really wanted to play with one of these. I think it'll end up in the truck.
 
NCLivingBrit said:
Is there much difference between this Larsen NMO2/70B and something less pricey? Eham loves this thing.

https://www.dxengineering.com/parts/lsn-nmo2-70b


Also after peeking into the attic, I may have room for something like this

http://www.mfjenterprises.com/Product.php?productid=MFJ-1754

....if I can figure out how to bring a cable into the bedroom without being too obvious about it. Maybe I can run a feedline into the closet from above (which is right near the attic hatch) where it won't be seen and then out to my radio.....

Would that work inside an apt roof?
Click to expand...


That will work fine in an attic... just don't mount it next to a big metal thing like the HVAC, etc. I've found that a small screwdriver makes nice coax-sized holes in the ceiling sheetrock that can quickly be repaired with a wad of white toilet paper if needed. You'll need to de-connecctor one end to do so, but that shouldn't be too hard.

As long as you dont have a metal roof, you're GTG. If you DO have a metal roof there's some fine alternatives.
 
JohnFreeman said:
That will work fine in an attic... just don't mount it next to a big metal thing like the HVAC, etc. I've found that a small screwdriver makes nice coax-sized holes in the ceiling sheetrock that can quickly be repaired with a wad of white toilet paper if needed. You'll need to de-connecctor one end to do so, but that shouldn't be too hard.

As long as you dont have a metal roof, you're GTG. If you DO have a metal roof there's some fine alternatives.
Click to expand...

Right but is it going to be significantly better than something that's half as much?
 
Ikarus1 said:
Larsen makes great antennas. A little pricey. The Japanese antennas are just as good from what I gather...if you want super Exotic, get a Sirio from Italy, they look like artwork....
6996c4e18657fad1500e29059c98e166.jpg
Click to expand...

I want most effect for least money, it could look like Rosie o Donnell giving Hilary Clinton a sponge bath if it worked and wasn't spendy. Not like I can see it most of the time lol
 
NCLivingBrit said:
Right but is it going to be significantly better than something that's half as much?
Click to expand...

No... I was referring to the MFJ. IT will do a fine job. I'd suspend it from the ceiling of the attic with some fishing line, as it's integral ground plane will not require it to sit on a metal object. That's an important difference. The other antennas shown do NOT have a ground plane as part of the design, so they must be mounted on a metal surface . If you note the rods extending from the base of the MFJ, they're "ground radials" there to simulate the body of a car, or other metal surface that makes up the other half of the antenna. Think of these 1/4 wave antennas as half of a dipole antenna oriented vertically because that's precisely what they are.

They're both 1/4 wave verticals, so performance will be identical, with higher priced versions perhaps being more weatherproofed and long lived than the mfj. Inside it's a wash....
 
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JohnFreeman said:
No... I was referring to the MFJ. IT will do a fine job. I'd suspend it from the ceiling of the attic with some fishing line, as it's integral ground plane will not require it to sit on a metal object. That's an important difference. The other antennas shown do NOT have a ground plane as part of the design, so they must be mounted on a metal surface . If you note the rods extending from the base of the MFJ, they're "ground radials" there to simulate the body of a car, or other metal surface that makes up the other half of the antenna. Think of these 1/4 wave antennas as half of a dipole antenna oriented vertically because that's precisely what they are.

They're both 1/4 wave verticals, so performance will be identical, with higher priced versions perhaps being more weatherproofed and long lived than the mfj. Inside it's a wash....
Click to expand...

Guess I better find my step ladder then and figure out a sneaky spot for a hole for a wire.
 
It'll work fine. The tip of that 1/4 wave vertical will be at the maximum voltage seen on the antenna , so make sure you use an insulator to suspend it if you hang it from the tip (slit a strip of milk jug and poke the end thru, thumbtack the other end to the ceiling, etc....

Doesn't need pretty to work well :)

By the way you're a filthy untouchable peasant .... but aren't we all!
 
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JohnFreeman said:
It'll work fine. The tip of that 1/4 wave vertical will be at the maximum voltage seen on the antenna , so make sure you use an insulator to suspend it if you hang it from the tip (slit a strip of milk jug and poke the end thru, thumbtack the other end to the ceiling, etc....

Doesn't need pretty to work well :)

By the way you're a filthy untouchable peasant .... but aren't we all!
Click to expand...

As I recall, filthy untouchable peasants in a barely tamed land knocked an established imperial power's man-parts and professional army into a cocked hat..... I'm ok with it.
 
So the plan is to go with:

QYT 8900D w programming cable

MFJ-1754 (to be hidden in the attic)

Sunforce 5.8a power unit (upgrade when I start TXing)

Tram 1185 for the car (also adapter for UV5R)

Got the adapter cable for thw UV5R on the way because they're slow and dirt cheap.

Everything else waits for new second job to start paying me!

Thanks for all the help!
 
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I got the QYT 8900D installed in the truck today, a McGuyver antenna connected, the programming software downloaded and the radio programmed with the manufacturers SW. I got on 210 and got really good reports...excellent full audio.

The thing is tiny and easy to install. Oh, and it's $70 bucks with the programming cable. There's plenty of received audio to hear when at normal cruising altitude. The two rotary controls are rubbery feeling but adequate as most all the functions are duplicated on the supplied mic.

Two thumbs up!

Your list ^^ sounds fine! You'll make a lot of contacts with that .... One can buy a lot of new station for small bucks these days. My first new 2m radio was an Icom 22S (diode programmable) and I think I paid $249 for it new alone.
 
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$3.90 mobile antenna and mount.

Used PL259 (hamfest, 0.25$)
Used SO239 (hamfest, 0.50$)
Epoxy ( 3$ --- 95% left over)
Squirt of black paint (0.15$)
Coat hanger (free)

2m1.jpg
 
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