Installation of CGW 3 Spring Kit in the CZ75 Series Pistol *Pic Heavy*

Mitch Rapp

Bah, humbug. Shut up and look out the window.
Charter Life Member
Benefactor
Joined
Dec 17, 2016
Messages
8,972
Location
Cleveland Co, NC
Rating - 100%
27   0   0
A couple members have recently acquired new CZ75 series pistols and have asked me how difficult installation of the 3 Spring Kit from CGW is on them.
The answer is that it isn't hard at all, but folks seem to be intimidated by all the little parts in a CZ. Good news is we don't really mess with any of the tiny pieces for this lol.
I actually get this question quite often, so I decided I would do a step by step tutorial for anyone wanting to do it.


Items needed:

*The gun lol
*The CGW spring kit
*Small hammer
*3/32 (2mm) punch
*Screwdriver (or hex wrench) for grip removal
*Bench Block

Optional, but recomended tools
*1/16 (1.5mm) punch
*Pliers

20190730_172246.jpg

Start by clearing the weapon, field stripping, and removing the grips to expose the mainspring and magazine brake inside the grip.

20190730_172559.jpg

The magazine brake is just a thin piece of flexible metal, so reach in with your fingers and pull it towards the front of the pistol until it comes out of its slots at the bottom and swings free. There is a lip/tab that sits under the mainspring, so you might have to put a little oomph into it. More on that lip/tab later.

20190730_172658.jpg

Some CZs have a lanyard loop and some just have a mainspring plug. Whatever yours may have, the plug pin is held in by spring tension from the mainspring. Hold the pistol vertical, press downward on the plug just a little to relieve the tension, and the pin easily pushes out with the 3/32 punch. Keep downward pressure, remove punch, and slowly release the tension.

20190730_172611.jpg

20190730_172753.jpg

20190730_172818.jpg

Pull the spring and plug out, change spring, stick plug back on, and slide back inside the grip over the hammer strut.

When you reinstall the mag brake and plug pin, the tab on the mag brake is bent to a 90 deg angle and it fits under the mainspring inside the plug. Position shown here.

20190730_173157.jpg

As you are reversing the process to compress the spring and put the plug pin back in, you must push the plug extra deep into the grip to get that tab where it belongs. Then, as you are carefully releasing the pressure, you must guide the edges of the mag brake into their channels, shown here.

20190730_173227.jpg

*optional*

The above is what I like to refer as a PITA. Before I put the new spring and plug back in, I just take my optional, but recommended, 1/16 punch, knock out the upper brake pin and remove the brake. I then take the optional, but recommended, pliers and break off that tab. Reinstall brake and upper pin.

20190730_172938.jpg

It's really easy to manipulate the mag brake back into place now and does not affect function.

Now that the tab is gone and brake is back in its channels, slide spring and plug assembly back over hammer strut, with notches facing front of pistol, hold pistol vertical, compress on table and put plug pin back in.
Set the frame aside and lets get started on the slide.
 
Last edited:
Now, the slide


Start with the slide on its side and locate the firing pin retaining pin

20190730_173823.jpg

Knock that pin out with your 3/32 punch and look at bottom of slide. The round thing is the firing pin block and holds the firing pin in.

20190730_173958.jpg

Depress the FPB and release the firing pin. Pull it and the firing pin spring out while pushing the FPB in. Turn the slide over and knock it against your hand to remove the FPB and plunger spring.

20190730_174139.jpg

Pull both those springs off/out and replace with the ones from the CGW kit.
To reinstall the firing pin and block, turn the slide upside down and put the FPB back in its hole with the notches facing to your right.

20190730_174318.jpg

Push the firing pin into the pin channel with the notches facing downward. You will feel resistance from the FPB, so you must push the Block in while pushing the pin forward.

20190730_174454.jpg

20190730_174503.jpg

Release pressure on the block and let everything do its job and hold in place.
Pick up your slide, and look through the retaining pin hole from the right side.
If everything is properly aligned, it will look like this. Pic too hard to get, so I drew it lol. The part the punch is pointed at is the leading edge of the retaining pin notch on the firing pin and should be at the rear of the hole.

20190730_174913.jpg

Place your slide as it would sit on the frame, and start the retainer pin just enough that its sturdy and wont fall out.

20190730_175026.jpg

Turn the slide on its side, and while using a punch to hold the firing pin forward and flush to frame, drive the retainer pin back in.

*WARNING*

The retainer pin should go in very easily. If you encounter ANY resistance, STOP IMMEDIATELY. You DO NOT want to damage your firing pin.

If this happens, just punch the pin back out a small bit from the other side, drepress firing pin flush to frame again and reinstall retainer pin.

20190730_175209.jpg


Once the retainer pin is in, you are done.
Replace grips, assemble pistol, and function check it.


20190730_175747.jpg


This simple upgrade should reduce the DA pull by 30-40% and *maybe* a few ounces off the SA while maintaining 100% ignition, even with hard primers.



Hope this helps some of our newer CZ enthusiasts.
Happy shooting, guys and gals!!!
 
Last edited:
Extremely cool. Thanks @draco88

Everything is very clear to me but Iā€™m just confused by one instruction. How do I clear the weapon? :confused:
 
Last edited:
Installed the springs today....much much better trigger pull...especially on DA. Thanks again @draco88
springs.jpg
 
Great post! I did this awhile ago to my sp01. I am absolutely have zero mechanical ability and was still able to pull this off. The upgrades are so worth it and had some fellers at Battery Oaks Range even comment how nice the trigger pull was. For all those scared to do it donā€™t be. You will not be disappointed and you can do this!
 
Have you tackled any of the Pro or Defensive Carry packages?
Love these write ups!
 
Have you tackled any of the Pro or Defensive Carry packages?
Love these write ups!
Yes, I have done several pro packages...and by virtue of that, several defensive carry packages lol.
The pro package is a def carry package plus the short reach trigger system.
 
I wonder how different the P09 would be than this gun. It has an integral polymer 'mag brake' piece so I am thinking it just has the mainspring and pin setup.
 
I donā€™t have a roll of duct tape handy. Is it ok to use a real armorerā€™s block? :confused:

What does removing that tab do?

Thanks @draco88 :)
 
I wonder how different the P09 would be than this gun. It has an integral polymer 'mag brake' piece so I am thinking it just has the mainspring and pin setup.

You are correct...it's just the spring, spring plug, and plug pin. The plug pin is held in with spring tension just like the 75s, but it does not have the notches. It is a cylinder with some oversized holes in it. Just make sure you get them lined up right.
The springs come out of the slide the same way as the 75s also, except iirc, the retainer pin hole in the slide is smaller on one side than the other. Knock pin out from right to left, reinstall left to right.
Even if Im misremembering that, it's a good habit to get into. There are a couple places internally where that is absolutely the case.
 
I donā€™t have a roll of duct tape handy. Is it ok to use a real armorerā€™s block? :confused:

What does removing that tab do?

Thanks @draco88 :)

Youve got a real armorers block?
I need your job :D

Remiving that tab does nothing except make it easier to put the brake back in its slots.
That part has always given me fits if I don't break it off. I'd rather rebuild the sear cage lol o_O
Try it like it's supposed to be...you may have better luck than me
 
Self taught shadetree smithin lol
There's lots I still dont know about these things...Im still learning this platform lol
And Iā€™m working towards becoming a shade tree smithinwesson. ;)
 
I'm looking at doing some work on my son's P09 on the trigger bar like outlined here:
https://czfirearms.us/index.php?topic=66147.0

I figure this plus the $24 spring kit and voila, should be a great SA/DA trigger. He's a revolver shooter anyhow so it doesn't really bother him now but I like it as good as it can get for as less money as I can spend ;)
 
Youve got a real armorers block?
I need your job :D

Remiving that tab does nothing except make it easier to put the brake back in its slots.
That part has always given me fits if I don't break it off. I'd rather rebuild the sear cage lol o_O
Try it like it's supposed to be...you may have better luck than me
I broke the tab off...in fact...I didn't have to take out the top pin....just grabbed it through the magwell with pliers and bent it back and forth a few times. And I agree...seemed like it was going to be a pita.
 
Well, I didnā€™t get to the tab. My new spring is a good 3/16ā€ longer than the stock one. Thatā€™s giving me a devil of a time jamming that spring and the plug up the *******, well you know what I wanna say. Do I have the right spring @draco88?

A73226EE-A9B1-49D8-B5A5-ABC8E32DB648.jpeg
 
Well, I didnā€™t get to the tab. My new spring is a good 3/16ā€ longer than the stock one. Thatā€™s giving me a devil of a time jamming that spring and the plug up the *******, well you know what I wanna say. Do I have the right spring @draco88?

View attachment 143121

Mine seemed like it was longer but I put them beside each other and was the same length. If you hold the gun vertical and use a flat surface and push down on the gun it will go in.

edit: I didn't really look at it too close when I put them beside each other but was close
 
Last edited:
Well, I didnā€™t get to the tab. My new spring is a good 3/16ā€ longer than the stock one. Thatā€™s giving me a devil of a time jamming that spring and the plug up the *******, well you know what I wanna say. Do I have the right spring @draco88?

View attachment 143121

Thats interesting...you should have the right one if it came out of that pack I saw the pic of
 
Well, I didnā€™t get to the tab. My new spring is a good 3/16ā€ longer than the stock one. Thatā€™s giving me a devil of a time jamming that spring and the plug up the *******, well you know what I wanna say. Do I have the right spring @draco88?

View attachment 143121

Lemme go pull one of mine apart and check againt a stock spring.
Brb...
 
@Jeppo
Mass produced springs are mass produced is the best I can come up with lol.
SPGK1 is the correct kit for both compact and full size 75s. The springs out of one of my compact and full size match up.
I.hate it, but maybe you just got a fluke.
Email David at CGW that pic and I betchya he'll send you another set.
If it was me, I'd both email him and trim it to the same size as stock and give it a go lol. But, that's just me :rolleyes:

20190802_185040.jpg
 
@draco88
Can you also walk on water? Youā€™re amazing!!!!!! :D
 
Man I wish I would have been aware of tab trick when I had my ā€˜75.
Thing gave me fits! I would have been pleased me to tear it off, but never occurred to me.
 
@Jeppo
Mass produced springs are mass produced is the best I can come up with lol.
SPGK1 is the correct kit for both compact and full size 75s. The springs out of one of my compact and full size match up.
I.hate it, but maybe you just got a fluke.
Email David at CGW that pic and I betchya he'll send you another set.
If it was me, I'd both email him and trim it to the same size as stock and give it a go lol. But, that's just me :rolleyes:

View attachment 143125
@draco88 and @Jeppo, your springs have the same number of coils; so if the wire diameter is the same, they have the same spring rate. Trimming off coils will make the spring stiffer (raise the spring rate). The extra free length will mean more preload on the spring, but I reckon it's compressed so much after installation that a little more preload won't make a noticeable difference. Cutting off 10% of the coils, for instance, will make the spring 10% stiffer.

I don't know the role of that spring well enough to say if that 10% translates into 10% heavier trigger pull, though. That may not make a noticeable difference either, but making it easier to install might make it worth it.

Thanks for this tutorial thread, draco88. I may do this to my PCR; but since I need to replace the trigger shoe with something more friendly to my crooked, bony, fanger, I'll probably go deeper.
 
@draco88 and @Jeppo, your springs have the same number of coils; so if the wire diameter is the same, they have the same spring rate. Trimming off coils will make the spring stiffer (raise the spring rate). The extra free length will mean more preload on the spring, but I reckon it's compressed so much after installation that a little more preload won't make a noticeable difference. Cutting off 10% of the coils, for instance, will make the spring 10% stiffer.
Hmmm...seems I learn something new every day. Thanks, Stobie

I don't know the role of that spring well enough to say if that 10% translates into 10% heavier trigger pull, though. That may not make a noticeable difference either, but making it easier to install might make it worth it.

There are so many contact points moving during the DA pull, it would be tough to say one way or another.
If Jep gets CGW to send him another, maybe he'll send me the 'bad' one and I'll put it on my Lyman while doing a coil by coil removal.
Im naturally curious lol.

Thanks for this tutorial thread, draco88. I may do this to my PCR; but since I need to replace the trigger shoe with something more friendly to my crooked, bony, fanger, I'll probably go deeper.

No, sweat, bud. If you do go in to replace the trigger shoe, the sear cage has to come out to get the trigger/trigger bar assembly out. Make sure you use a slave pin to hold the sear cage together. It can get downright aggravating to put those things back together.




@Jeppo with my new found knowledge, I'm gonna drop back to my first suggestion and say email CGW. They'll definitely send another.
 
Bubba couldnā€™t sleep last night. Somehow, he managed to get the ā€œlongerā€ GGW spring into the gun and the magazine spring back in place WITHOUT removing the tab. Now you want me to take it apart again? It was sometime after 2am and I have no idea how ā€œheā€ accomplished it. :confused:

The firing pin and roll pin are a completely different matter. :(
 
Bubba couldnā€™t sleep last night. Somehow, he managed to get the ā€œlongerā€ GGW spring into the gun and the magazine spring back in place WITHOUT removing the tab. Now you want me to take it apart again? It was sometime after 2am and I have no idea how ā€œheā€ accomplished it. :confused:

The firing pin and roll pin are a completely different matter. :(

Did it still help the DA?
 
If you can believe it, Iā€™m still struggling with the firing pin. Here are the ā€œbeforeā€ averages. Iā€™ll take some ā€œafterā€ readings of the frame only.

0082A213-5750-41BB-BB2D-4ACC388EAC43.jpeg 18B7894A-8323-48BB-B815-F9B0E9D5044A.jpeg
 
Last edited:
Here are the ā€œaftersā€ without the slide. Not sure whether itā€™s fair to compare with the ā€œbeforesā€ that included the slide.

AA6C55FD-A00E-4982-AB46-C89F70382D97.jpeg 94794F88-E3E3-41FD-B63A-30C8C1781F65.jpeg
 
Here are the ā€œaftersā€ without the slide. Not sure whether itā€™s fair to compare with the ā€œbeforesā€ that included the slide.

View attachment 143259 View attachment 143260


I think youll be fine. A couple of mine were in the 8-12 and 3-8 neighborhood after spring install. Seems reasonable the slide with fpb would jump yours up to that area, too.
 
Last edited:
We all thank you @draco88 !!!!!!!!!! :D
 
Back
Top Bottom