Knife sharpening

I use an edge pro apex, really like it, but it’s not the thing for serrated knives. Have never used the Lansky.

Happy to loan it to you if you want to give it a try.

http://www.edgeproinc.com/
 
Last edited:
I've owned and tried the Lansky, Spiderco Sharpmaker, DMT Stones, and ended up at the Wicked Edge due to it's ease of use, ability to take an edge past scary sharp, and reproducibility when touching up a blade.

The WE is well beyond most peoples budgets, BUT they do now offer the Wicked Edge Go which is a lower price point than the WE-120.

Of the more reasonably priced sharpners I would highly recommend the Spiderco Sharpmaker over the Lansky as it will also do scissors and serrated edges.
 
  • Like
Reactions: NKD
buy a couple of dmt's and learn to do it by hand. you wont ever carry one of those new fangled gadgets in the field and what will you use when you do not have it and the edge is dull?
 

  • Via Amazon
    61UyF%2BIYeoL._SX522_.jpg
Touch the image to zoom in

KKmoon
Professional Upgraded Version Fixed-angle Knife Sharpener Kitchen Knife Sharpener Kits System 4 Sharpening Stones
2 customer reviews





Price: $34.99 & FREE Shipping



WSS-Store.










  • With a sucker, can be fixed on smooth and flat surfaces stably. (If you put some water on the bottom of the sucker, it will have stronger adsorption capacity.)
 
Last edited:
Deplorable me said:

  • Via Amazon
    61UyF%2BIYeoL._SX522_.jpg
Touch the image to zoom in

KKmoon
Professional Upgraded Version Fixed-angle Knife Sharpener Kitchen Knife Sharpener Kits System 4 Sharpening Stones
2 customer reviews

Price: $34.99 & FREE Shipping
Click to expand...
Wow, the EdgePro guys must have slipped on their patent, this thing looks to be 90% the same and 10% the price.
 
I can get my pocket knife so sharp that accidentally closing it on my finger while putting it away, almost cut the entire tip of my finger off. I used a Smiths honing system. It’s dull compared to what someone who knows how to use stones can do by hand.
 
Get a $60 belt sander from Harbor Freight.
https://www.harborfreight.com/1-in-x-30-in-belt-sander-60543.html
Throw away the plastic guard and the sideplate.

Get these belts(I'd say 3 of each should last you years, only need one leather belt):
https://trugrit.com/index.php?main_...Page=0&zenid=273fb4fffdfc4bdd0be34909ffca7cc0

BL3M130-0080-A300CF -- knocks out chips and puts on the raw edge on a dull knife, do not use unless you have to.

BL3M130-0240-A65CF -- sets your edge

BL3M130-0600-A30CF -- refines your edge

BRNT130-1200-X16U936 -- Finishes your edge

Get a leather stopping belt, load it with jewelers rouge, and knock off the wire you created. You know what gold flake looks like? If you did everything right, the last belt before the leather strop will make steel colored flakes all over your edge, and lets you know you've got a nice edge(knock it off with the leather strop).


Here's a good tutorial. You don't need to use all the separate devices he uses, just change belts.






This will get you the best edge in the shortest amount of time. You can vary the angle for kitchen knives as opposed to hunting knives/edc. Works for axes, chisels, scissors, swords. Puts a nice convexed edge on your blade, which is sharp, but tough.
 
Last edited:
This is something I’ve been learning to do in the last year. I have a lansky system but just use the stones and sharpen by hand and eye. @RedneckFur posted once that cardboard makes a decent strop in a pinch and he was right. It works really good
 
Burt Gummer said:
This is something I’ve been learning to do in the last year. I have a lansly system but just use the stones and sharpen by hand and eye. @RedneckFur posted once that cardboard makes a decent strop in a pinch and he was right. It works really good
Click to expand...
Cardboard and leather are both loaded with silicates. That's why your knife dulls cutting into cardboard, but also means it's great for stropping. Best type of cardboard for stropping are the cheap structural sides, with the hidden ridges.

Cardboard and leather alone will both work great as strops, but some jewelers rouge added to it works better still.

 
Last edited:
pinkbunny said:
Cardboard and leather are both loaded with silicates. That's why your knife dulls cutting into cardboard, but also means it's great for stropping. Best type of cardboard for stropping are the cheap structural sides, with the hidden ridges.

Cardboard and leather alone will both work great as strops, but some jewelers rouge added to it works better still.
Click to expand...

I use the edges of a box. The ridges work great when you “uncover” them so to speak.
 
Burt, try a little chromium jewlers rouge from home depot or lowes on the cardboard or leather. you may have to heat it up with a hairdryer to get it to stick but it works wonders. when using stones try doubling the grit after you reach the apex. I usually go dmt 325,600,1300 or blue red green if you use the ones with holes. mine are the bench stones 8 inch x2 or 2 1/2. I use the same technique on my straight razors, I add Belgian blue approx. 4kand then coticule approx. 8k and finish on chromium rouge it is the green one
 
My son keeps my knives sharp for me. I taught him how to do it on stones by hand and then several years ago we bought him a KME Sharpener. Similar action to a Wicked Edge except on the KME, you sharpen one side and then the other.

https://www.kmesharp.com/
 
I picked up a lansky kit. Tried it out today on a cheap "survival" knife. Very nice edge now. Cuts paper stupid easy.

I also got a Benchmade all in one type sharpener. Tried it on my main EDC pocket knife a SOG twitch xl with the single edge blade. Worked good. Especially since I have never used a free hand stone before. Hair popping sharp now :)
 
Last edited:
gaberelli said:
Anyone here run a Tormek?
Click to expand...

Yes, but you’re a long way away. There should be one setup for playing at the woodcraft in Raleigh.
 
After watching a bunch of wranglerstar and various bushcraft videos I decided I’d learn to sharpen the old school way, with stones. I’m still learning but enjoy hand sharpening my axes and pocket knives.

It’s quite rewarding to take an axe from Lowes with no edge whatsoever and put a nice workable edge on it exactly as you want it.
 
Last edited:
The Lansky is a good choice. Or you could get the Work Sharp basic (or Ken Onion if you have the money). They’re ideal for small and medium-sized kitchen knives and small cutting tools. Read a review of the Basic on Healthy Kitchen 101 the other day and I’m planning to get one myself. I’ve also watched plenty of reviews of the Wicked Edge too, but the price is simply beyond my range...
 
https://www.sharpeningsupplies.com/DMT-6-Dia-Sharp-Kit-P404.aspx

This is the kit I recommend for hand sharpening. Between this and some leather strops (you can make your own very easily) is all you need. I was always able to sharpen by hand on an old 3 sided Arkansas stone setup my dad had. When I got this kit it took it to another level. The diamonds cut fast and clean and make quick work of sharpening.

I have recently purchased a wicked edge system but you really have to get more stones/handles than they give you on the cheaper model. The one I bought came with diamond stones up to 600 and that just isn't enough. It will get a knife sharp for sure but not scary sharp. I bought the 800 and 1000 grit stones as well as 2 sets of the glass platen handles. You buy sheets of PSA lapping film, cut them, and stick them to the glass. I have them up to 0.5 micron and it is a mirror finish at that point. Some knives you won't want to take that far, it just depends on what you're going to use it for.

I do think it is important to learn to sharpen by hand though, as it is an important skill to learn and teaches you HOW to sharpen a knife by feeling for a burr. Once you know the basics of it the guided systems just makes it quicker. You can also reproduce the factory edge with these types of systems. By hand I always had to start with the coarsest grits to reshape the edge the way I sharpen. With a guided system you can match the bevel from the factory much easier. Also with the wicked edge you could set the sides to different angles to further match the factory bevel. Most good knives are sharpened by hand from the factory on belts so, depending on who is doing it, the angles aren't exactly symmetrical to the spine of the knife. This isn't necessarily a bad thing, it just is what it is, and if you are keen on keeping it the same it is doable. I tend to reshape them to be symmetrical but it really doesn't matter much.
 
Well I will soon by offering my feedback on the Tormek... I made a low offer on an ebay auction for a new one and won it....
 
I bought some nice stones and watched youtube to do various things with blades. Then I got serious and got a 1" upright belt sander (works just like a Lansky...but cheaper overall including belts, etc) to do convex edges and the like.

on the 1" belt sander I can use various grits and once upon a time Craftsman sold 3 belt variety packs for under $10. I got a leather stropping kit off Ebay with jewelers rouge compound for $30.

It works great when you have machetes, axes, etc to sharpen where the little mini sanders wont even work.

I got mine at HFT but this guy uses a Delta the same way I do

 
Last edited:
Ikarus1 said:
I bought some nice stones and watched youtube to do various things with blades. Then I got serious and got a 1" upright belt sander (works just like a Lansky...but cheaper overall including belts, etc) to do convex edges and the like.

on the 1" belt sander I can use various grits and once upon a time Craftsman sold 3 belt variety packs for under $10. I got a leather stropping kit off Ebay with jewelers rouge compound for $30.

It works great when you have machetes, axes, etc to sharpen where the little mini sanders wont even work.

I got mine at HFT but this guy uses a Delta the same way I do

Click to expand...


Funny, about two weeks ago I watched this video. Went to harbor freight and bought the sander.
Now all my knives will make you bleed.
 
be careful using belt sanders... they will round off yer tips.

The Lansky is great for learning how, because it shows you what you have to do when you sharpen by hand. It's reasonably priced.

I found a small diamond hone at a gun show. It's my EDC in a small knife pouch.

Leather strops work very well, as does cardboard.
 
Anybody tried this one?

https://bladereviews.com/lansky-4-rod-turn-box-crock-stick-sharpener-review/

I highly recommend the Lansky Crock Sticks. This is a low cost alternative to the Spyderco Sharpmaker that gives you 90% of the utility at a fraction of the price.

Would I still want a leather strop to finish them off? (Pocket knives and kitchen knives)

If so...any recommendations? I’ve never sharpened a knife other than using one of those el-cheapo units you drag across the blade, before I really knew better. Also have a honing steel with the kitchen knives that I’ve used for s little maintenance after pinkbunny put a razor edge on the Wusthofs.

Is grabbing a leather belt at Goodwill a decent plan?
 
BigWaylon said:
Anybody tried this one?

https://bladereviews.com/lansky-4-rod-turn-box-crock-stick-sharpener-review/
Click to expand...
I have a couple of ceramic rod sharpeners... like 'em a lot. That'n is a good'un. They are for a quick resharpening, not for a serious get-it-back-to-shaving-hair kinda resharpening. I've never paid that much for one, though.

BigWaylon said:
Would I still want a leather strop to finish them off?
Click to expand...
Leather strop would be good with a ceramic rod for quick resharpening, and for the final treatment in a thorough resharpening.

BigWaylon said:
Is grabbing a leather belt at Goodwill a decent plan?
Click to expand...
You want a new, vegetable tanned strip of hide, ideally. A Goodwill belt will do, though.

It is best if the leather is glued to a block of wood, so you can use it like a stone. Jeweler's Rouge works well on 'em.
 
RockRiver said:
I do think it is important to learn to sharpen by hand though, as it is an important skill to learn and teaches you HOW to sharpen a knife by feeling for a burr. Once you know the basics of it the guided systems just makes it quicker. You can also reproduce the factory edge with these types of systems. By hand I always had to start with the coarsest grits to reshape the edge the way I sharpen.
Click to expand...

See, I've never understood this rationale.

Using belts is just a newer version of the sharpening wheel, which has been in use for centuries.
TomWorldSharpeningKnife_WEFretwellCollection.jpg


Freehand belt sharpening will develop a burr, and will teach you all the mechanics of sharpening, it's just a lot quicker. There's a reason why knife makers use this method of sharpening(and you can see in shows like Forged in Fire the downsides of using just stones).
I do agree that using a guided system makes you lose a lot of the control, so you won't know what do with blades with sharp inner or outer bellies to them, or tanto blades. But I don't think there is any real difference between stones and a belt sander, other than speed.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top Bottom