Kydex knife part.

RetiredUSNChief

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So, I'm looking to try an experiment.

I found a really cool ceramic lock blade knife, a Schrade SCH401, on Amazon. I'm looking at reducing the metal on this knife to a bare minimum and part of that plan is to replace the steel locking spring plate with kydex.

Since the blade is ceramic, it's not like I need a robust steel locking device to hold the blade securely open against large prying forces.

The carbon fiber knife handle comes apart by removing small torx head screws, so I figure I can remove the locking spring plate and use it as a pattern to fabricate one from similar thickness kydex.

If I do this, and remove the metal belt clip, the only metal in the knife will be the post-and-screw holding the blade in and the tiny spacers and screws holding the handle together.

Here's what the knife looks like:

Screenshot_20181129-183647_Amazon Shopping.jpg
 
Aluminum is non-ferrous. Turnnit into a frame lock. Just sayin'. And wherever you're planning to go with that, getting caught with it may be, unfortunate.
I would question overall strength. A dynamic fight will break regular knives. If you're going to have a contraband knife anyway, why not go fixed blade?
Personally, I prefer re-purposing existing tools like screwdrivers. Cheap, effective.
 
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I'm not going to look the knife up but it appears to be a liner lock which is locked open by a portion of the liner springing over to block the blade from closing. Attempting to replace this part with kydex wouldn't work. It's either titanium or spring steel for a reason.
If you want to make something that will go through a metal detector PM me and I'll explain how to do it...
 
First problem I see is kydex does not spring. And that locking part is usually under mild tension I think.

As the resident expert on holster making, I'll take that under advisement.

But it's not really "spring" I'm looking for, it's "flex back into it's formed position".

I don't have my torx drivers handy, or I'd take this knife apart and take pictures of the piece I'm talking about. But, since most of us here have, or have had, a similar lock blade knife, I'll try describing it better.

The locking mechanism is a flat piece of steel sandwiched between one side of the blade and the handle. It has a "tong" which, when the blade is rotated out, springs into position on the back of the blade to prevent it from closing.

I chose kydex as the material to experiment with because it's a stiff plastic which has some flex to it without being brittle. And it's easily formed into shape by heat and pressure, whereafter it retains that shape...with all its other characteristics intact.

Without actually measuring the thickness of this piece, I'd say it's just a bit shy of 1/16 inch thick. Observing the movement of the spring tong as the blade is move into it's "locked" position, the tong moves less than the thickness of the piece.

As for durability and life expectancy, the knife isn't intended to be a "tactical" tool for my purpose. First of all, ceramic would make an exceedingly poor tactical tool due to its brittleness, no matter how sharp they are. Second, there are plenty of fixed blade ceramic knives to choose from which have no metal whatsoever in them.

Given my typical usage within the limitations of a ceramic blade, I would fully expect this kydex piece to last the useful life of a ceramic pocket knife for my purposes. And even if it didn't last long...it would still be a fun project to have tried and I'd look into something else to try.


Aluminum is non-ferrous. Turnnit into a frame lock. Just sayin'. And wherever you're planning to go with that, getting caught with it may be, unfortunate.
I would question overall strength. A dynamic fight will break regular knives. If you're going to have a contraband knife anyway, why not go fixed blade?
Personally, I prefer re-purposing existing tools like screwdrivers. Cheap, effective.


My intent is "pocket knife retention". I have carried a pocket knife with my almost my entire life, since early grade school. They are extremely utilitarian tools useful for a wide variety of purposes. I strongly resent being told that I must surrender my pocket knife at sporting events, concerts, or whatever else I may attend. Additionally, many such organizations don't even follow their own rules on permissible blade lengths, choosing to make my life inconveniently annoying by telling me I must walk my happy *ss all the way back to my car with my pocket knife that meets their blade length restrictions.

And yes, I know there are places where it's not advisable to bring a pocket knife due to the legal consequences. In most of those cases, I simply don't go if I have a choice in the matter...or I leave the knife behind. TSA at the airports, for example.

As for "overall strength"...I addressed that above. I would not choose a ceramic knife, folding or fixed blade, for a "tactical knife" because of its brittleness. They are sharp as all get-out, but way too brittle for such use.

Oh...and aluminum will set off metal detectors, as well. Different metals and alloys offer different electromagnetic signatures, which make some more or less "detectable" than others. However, all metals "perturb" magnetic lines of flux to some extent, whether they are ferrous or not.
 
Well...finally got off my keister to work on this project.

I haven't done anything in the last few months because other things kept getting in the way and I'd lose track of this.

Now, if only I had a coping saw at work!

I couldn't get all the tiny torx screws out when I tried a few months ago. I have a couple really nice sets of tiny tool steel torx drivers, but a couple of them just wouldn't break free on the test knife I was using. (That would be the first knife I bought, which I snapped the blade on by playing around "flicking" the blade open. Turns out that's not a good idea with a ceramic lock blade knife!)

Today I was driving by an AutoZone and remembered a $10 rebate card I got from them a couple weeks ago for something a while back. I swung by and picked up a can of WD-40 penetrant spray. That made short work on these tiny screws, so I went ahead and sprayed down the screws on the two new knives I had waiting for me to get around to this.

I dug the pack of Kydex sheets out of my trunk (0.060" thick) and brought it up to my desk. Traced out the spring steel insert on it and cut the outline out with a pair of scizzors, then securely taped that to the spring steel insert so I could use it to pattern the holes.

I'm waiting for the battery on my drill to charge up now. In about an hour or so, I'll drill out the holes on it. A coping saw would be perfect to cut out the "spring tab" on this, but alas...I don't have one in my desk. I did, however, find a pack of jewler's files and I'll try using one of those as a "saw" of sorts on this.

Meanwhile, I'm playing around with a small slice of Kydex, experimenting with it's flexibility to see how long the "spring tab" should be for effectiveness. I don't have to cut this nearly so long as the spring steel one. And, playing around with the bent pieces, it appears to be retaining its bend pretty well. It only needs to spring into locking position by the width of the blade, slightly more than 1/16".
 
AT LAST!

This really didn't take very long...except for the fact that I had to make three of these before I got it right.

Aaaaaaand here's the funny story about it!

SO...I has two new knives I bought, what with me having broken the blade on the first one. I took the broken knife apart, cut out a piece of Kydex using the spring insert as the pattern. Taped the spring insert to the Kydex cutout, drilled the holes to match, used a jeweler's file to cut the notch for the top of the "spring tab", then used the broken blade as a scribe and scored the bejeebers out of the cutout until I had the spring tab cut loose. Used a cigarette lighter to heat and bend the spring tab.

Trimmed everything up a bit, got it fitted to the broken handle and ready to go.

Pulled out my two new knives, which I had spritzed down with WD-40 penetrant. Had to do a little tapping to get the belt clip screws to come loose...which broke the blade on the first knife in the process.

No problem...take a bit more care on the second knife. Got it apart and then...

THE EFFIN' SPRING INSERT WOULDN'T FIT!

Come on, Schrade, IT'S THE SAME EFFIN' KNIFE, MASS PRODUCED IN A FACTORY! THEY'RE SUPPOSED TO BE THE SAME!

GRRRR!!!!

At first I thought "Well, I just need to drill another hole next to this one and it'll fit". Yeah...except the back of the blade is shaped differently where the spring locks into place, and the spring tab on my insert is too short.

SO...clean everything up, set my new knife parts carefully aside so I don't lose any pieces, cut another piece of Kydex and procede to make another spring insert.

And. Used. The. WRONG. Spring. Insert.

Yes...I made ANOTHER one from the SAME piece I used earlier.

At this point, I'm beyond livid and need to take a short break.

Anyway, I got it right the third time. It fits up quite nicely, though it needs the expected trimming/sanding around the edges of the knife to finish it up right. No sandpaper here...I'll do that later.

The locking action is quite crisp. And, examining the lock-up fit with the blade fully open, the Kydex is not likely to "round off" through use and allow the blade to pop free and close easily.

Long before any such wear might occur, I fully expect the blade to cr*p out. It is, after all, ceramic and if not carefully used will chip/break pretty quickly.

I'll save the extra pieces, because I'm going to order several more of these knives. If the pieces fit any, great. And, when this blade finally gives up the ghost, I'll transfer it's insert to another knife.
 
OK, here's the one I took right after I finished with the first insert. Shown is the new knife it's to be installed in, with a steel spring insert below, and under that the Kydex insert.

I'm waiting with baited breath for the rest of my pictures to show up in email.

Knife 01.jpg
 
This is the best picture out of what I was able to take. Black on black is hard to get a good shot of, even with the flash. Maybe if I was outside during the day.

Anyway, you can see the lock-up looks nice and solid. The blade does not wiggle and the locking tab is quite secure with respect to not allowing the blade to pop loose and close unexpectedly.

Knife 02.jpg
 
Hey!

Guess what knife I found out has been discontinued by Schrade?

*sigh*
 
61446_W3.jpg

Use the kydex and make a sheath.


https://www.harborfreight.com/3-in-ceramic-paring-knife-61446.html
 
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Yeah, lots of nice paring knife sets on Amazon, too. Bought a few.

This one looks like a nice, utilitarian blade.
 
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