Large gauge wire crimpers I can borrow [Raleigh]?

[JRHorne]

Anyone have a set? I found a nice set of Kleins.. for $190. I would normally just buy the tool and add it to my collection, but this is one that I don't see myself using that often. I just need it to do a few 4-8 awg crimps related to my skiff and wiring my truck for the power winch. Let me know!

 

[tod0987]

When I wired up my trolling motor, onboard charger, and cutoff switch for the skiff, I went out and bought the hydraulic crimper tool from Harborfreight for $50. I've used that tool several times since for other wiring tasks. https://www.harborfreight.com/hydraulic-wire-crimping-tool-66150.html It will squeeze the heck out of the crimp.

 

[Sharps40]

When I wired the 37 dodge with 1 g battery cables I smacked on the crimp length wise with a cold steel chisel, soldered the joint and covered with adhesive heat shrink....solid and no $190 tools needed

 

[JRHorne]

When I wired the 37 dodge with 1 g battery cables I smacked on the crimp length wise with a cold steel chisel, soldered the joint and covered with adhesive heat shrink....solid and no $190 tools needed

I haven't taught myself how to solder yet, but it's long overdue. I'm going to use adhesive shrink tube either way.

A buddy has a swagging tool that I may try. Otherwise, the Harbor Freight one @tod0987 would probably be a good investment.

 

[tod0987]

If it is in a high vibratory environment, crimping is usually the way to go vs soldering. Something to consider which is why most auto battery cables are crimped. I just found this one at northern tool. https://www.northerntool.com/shop/tools/product_200773734_200773734?cm_mmc=Google-pla&utm_source=Google_PLA&utm_medium=Construction > Concrete Pouring + Curing&utm_campaign=Klutch&utm_content=73168&&lid=92700048775743342&ds_s_kwgid=58700000737318897&ds_e_product_group_id=825809535064&ds_e_product_store_id=&ds_e_ad_type=pla&ds_s_inventory_feed_id=97700000001662305&gclid=EAIaIQobChMIiOrnpvy56gIVTr7ACh2ZdAcNEAQYASABEgLvpvD_BwE

This is the cheapest "tool" design for crimping. Prices vary from $15-30. https://www.northerntool.com/shop/t...MIiOrnpvy56gIVTr7ACh2ZdAcNEAQYBCABEgLucfD_BwE

 

[Les White]

I haven't taught myself how to solder yet, but it's long overdue. I'm going to use adhesive shrink tube either way.

A buddy has a swagging tool that I may try. Otherwise, the Harbor Freight one @tod0987 would probably be a good investment.

Youtube it. 5 minutes to learn. I think soldering is the better way to go. Other applications mentioned using crimps are largely a cost/time/materials savings and not necessarily better. If you get soldier type lugs just clean it, flux it, heat it, and fill that bad boy up with soldier. Stupid solid.

And you can use the soldering stuff elsewhere - like when a copper pipe needs some love.

 

[Lager]

When I wired the 37 dodge with 1 g battery cables I smacked on the crimp length wise with a cold steel chisel, soldered the joint and covered with adhesive heat shrink....solid and no $190 tools needed

After hitting with a chisel, I might have enlisted the help from a very large pair of pliars or maybe even the vise to crimp it even further. Never had the need to solder the joint,, just used what I had to SQUEEZE the heck out the big cable electrical connection.. But,,solder is a good idea . I love heat shrink, makes it look like I know what Im doing..

 

[Scsmith42]

For automotive work I prefer to solder. I still have solid soldered cables that I built around 1985 on my GMC Jimmy's winch.

I also have two set's of crimpers that you can borrow. One for the 8 gauge, and one for everything larger. Send me a PM if interested.

 

[Button Pusher]

That $15 tool is similar to what the Raymond tech uses on the lifts when he replaces the Anderson Power Pole connectors. BAM with the sledge hammer.

 

[Get Off My Lawn]

That $15 tool is similar to what the Raymond tech uses on the lifts when he replaces the Anderson Power Pole connectors. BAM with the sledge hammer.

This is the style we've used for 25+ years for the forklift battery leads, it's essentially the same as the Northern one @tod0987 mentioned. I've never had a crimp fail, use a heavy hammer (32oz+), when it's crimped the hit will sound and feel different, a bit of a bounce like when a bearing is seated.
https://www.waytekwire.com/item/462/Hammer-Style-Battery-Lug-Crimper-/

@JRHorne what's your general location?

 

[JRHorne]

Thanks everyone. @Pink_Vapor I'm right near Crabtree. I may just invest in one of the hammer ones. Just means I'll have to be careful when doing work while on the skiff so I don't smack a nice hole into some fiberglass!

 

[rdinatal]

Great electrical connections have two features: Mechanical and Electrical

Crimp and solder, you will never revisit that connection.

But...

Sometimes "good" is good enough.

 

[Sharps40]

I haven't taught myself how to solder yet, but it's long overdue. I'm going to use adhesive shrink tube either way.

A buddy has a swagging tool that I may try. Otherwise, the Harbor Freight one @tod0987 would probably be a good investment.

Clean connections, paste flux, smallllllll flame, approach melting heat slow. Tin (thin wipe of solder over the mating surfaces) both surfaces, assemble, stake with one lengthwise crimp using a hammer and cold steel chisel, reheat and flow in solder. Cool and then shrink the tubing over the joint.

#1 mistake folks make is big flame and overheat quick, solder puddles. Remember, solder flows to the heat source, even up hill.

Any low temp solder will be fine, lead, lead + rosin, tin, tin + rosin, e.g. anything you buy at lowes for soldering copper pipe will work wonderlisciousness.