Lifting a truck? Help!

Spartan

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I just acquired a 2019 Silverado 1500 4x4.
It sits lower than the Ram I owned previously.
I think I might like to raise it.

Here’s the rub: I don’t know anything about lifting a truck.

School me.
 
You can buy a leveling kit and have it installed pretty cheap. Add on a little taller tire and you’re sitting up nice. Chevys are always low on the front end. If you want to go big you can but you’re gonna spend some money. Especially over 3” when you have to start looking at extending brake lines and steering components.

Edit:avoid any type of body lift.
 
Last edited:
Ok
So what is a body lift?

I saw this leveling kit that was 3” front and 2” rear.
Looked decent.

So that is not a body lift?

Seriously, I’m a total noob
 
Last edited:
Ok
So what is a body lift?

I saw this leveling kit that was 3” front and 2” rear.
Looked decent.

So that is not a body lift?

Seriously, I’m a total noob


A body lift installs blocks between the body and the frame along with longer mounting bolts. In the old days when I kept up with things better, a body lift didn't void the factory warranty so a lot of folks went that route.

Other lift methods are longer coil springs and blocks between leaf springs and the axle. This is probably what the leveling kit does.


If you want to look really cool you raise the front at least 12 inches and turn the leaf springs in the rear upside down so that you can't see the road in front of you.
 
A 3/2 leveling kit and 33” tires is what you want. Cheap, effective, minimal work, easily reversible, great looks without looking like a “bro”.
 
Ok,
So I found 2 leveling kits.

Both are 3” front, 2” back kits.

Kit 1 has 3” spacers in the front and 2” blocks for the rear. Fairly standard, right?

Kit 2 has 3” spacer in the front and an additional leaf spring fro the rear.

Kit 2 is twice as expensive, but it seems to m would be a better deal over all?


Thought? Yes, NO, maybe so?
 
Ok,
So I found 2 leveling kits.

Both are 3” front, 2” back kits.

Kit 1 has 3” spacers in the front and 2” blocks for the rear. Fairly standard, right?

Kit 2 has 3” spacer in the front and an additional leaf spring fro the rear.

Kit 2 is twice as expensive, but it seems to m would be a better deal over all?


Thought? Yes, NO, maybe so?


Kit 2 is probably better for more hardcore use. Blocks in the rear increase the moment arm between the axle and the spring, increasing risk of axle wrap/wheel hop, and spring blocks can also crack under heavy use.
But if you're mostly mall-crawling, have at it.
The best lift kits include all new rear springs.
 
My preference would be to avoid lift blocks. I'd rather add a leaf vs adding a block in between the axle and the leaf pack. You can also look into doing a shackle flip. That would yield the same result without adding additional components.
 
I have 2 2018 F150s I recently wanted the rear lowered 2 inches to make them level. Everybody knew how to Raise them but I had a hellava time finding somebody that could lower just the rear. Finally did. Like you, I was in a mess having never tried this before.
 
I have 2 2018 F150s I recently wanted the rear lowered 2 inches to make them level. Everybody knew how to Raise them but I had a hellava time finding somebody that could lower just the rear. Finally did. Like you, I was in a mess having never tried this before.
I told ya to just throw a few cinderblocks in the bed until it leveled up.
 
I have 2 2018 F150s I recently wanted the rear lowered 2 inches to make them level. Everybody knew how to Raise them but I had a hellava time finding somebody that could lower just the rear. Finally did. Like you, I was in a mess having never tried this before.
Put a load of bikini clad Conway phat girls in the bed and have at it.
 
I have 2 2018 F150s I recently wanted the rear lowered 2 inches to make them level. Everybody knew how to Raise them but I had a hellava time finding somebody that could lower just the rear. Finally did. Like you, I was in a mess having never tried this before.

I have a contact in Lumberton that lowers them for car dealerships, private owners, etc. He did my truck in about an hour. I'll be happy to share his info with you …... just let me know.
 
A spacer leveling kit for the front will work if you are on a tight budget.
If you plan to offroad, I would go with something like fox 2.0 coilovers to level out the front 2 inches.
Either setup will clear 33" tires, but the coilovers with upgraded strut will handle the bumpy stuff better.
Also budget for an alignment.
 
Go visit the Silverado forum and those guys will let you know what works best with your new ride. There are a few ways to do it. Stay away from the no name ebay kits.
 
My buddy from church manages an off road truck store here in Pittsboro. I also had no idea what i should do after i bought my new truck.

He talked me into a 3" Rough Country lift kit with upgraded shocks, coil overs, etc. And 33 inch Nitto Ridge Grappler tires.

Now the truck looks aggressive, but not jacked up like a bro truck.

Before:
20181128_170608.jpg
After:
20190307_144602.jpg
20190307_144555.jpg
 
Never do a body lift.
Do it right with a suspension lift.
The bugaboo is the independent front suspension. That complicates the lift install.
I installed a list it in my 2010 Rubicon. I am not a mechanic. But I have done enough Jeep work to figure things out.


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Here is the hard to swallow pill:

Control arm and driveshaft angles are a thing. They are designed to operate parallel to the road surface, with plenty of suspension movement up and down. The cv joints, tie rod ends, and ball joints stay mostly neutral this way and will live long, happy lives.

Leveling kits, coil overs, and anything else that lifts the front without dropping the control arm mounts, rack, and diff really upsets these angles. Truck will sit higher, but you lose most of your downward travel, and all the joints operate near their limit of flexibility. This is bad. People will tell you it’s fine, just do it. It may be fine to them, but it will ride like crap and be harder to align. Having cv joints running at a steep angle, then steering and applying throttle can result broken joints.

Leveling kits are for looks.

If I were to lift this truck I would use a fabtech kit that drops the lower control arms and diff, and adds longer shocks and knuckles.

Use lift springs in the back. No blocks.






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Here is the hard to swallow pill:

Control arm and driveshaft angles are a thing. They are designed to operate parallel to the road surface, with plenty of suspension movement up and down. The cv joints, tie rod ends, and ball joints stay mostly neutral this way and will live long, happy lives.

Leveling kits, coil overs, and anything else that lifts the front without dropping the control arm mounts, rack, and diff really upsets these angles. Truck will sit higher, but you lose most of your downward travel, and all the joints operate near their limit of flexibility. This is bad. People will tell you it’s fine, just do it. It may be fine to them, but it will ride like crap and be harder to align. Having cv joints running at a steep angle, then steering and applying throttle can result broken joints.

Leveling kits are for looks.

If I were to lift this truck I would use a fabtech kit that drops the lower control arms and diff, and adds longer shocks and knuckles.

Use lift springs in the back. No blocks.






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Blocks just look mechanically unstable and weak.
Do it right or don't do it.

My 93YJ was all spring lift. Went with the heavy duty springs(5 pack) in the rear too because the 4 pack rears had a history of drooping.
When the rear siding on our XJ had to be replaced I ordered the heavy duty as well. Came in handy when we loaded it up for the move to NC. :D

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