Here is a set of grips I made for my Star BKM. I want honest opinions about the checkering job. Seriously tell me what you think. What is good about them as well as what is wrong.
Have at it.
Don't know why 1 is upside down
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Looking for honest opinions.
- Thread starter Schattenreiter
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Here is a set of grips I made for my Star BKM. I want honest opinions about the checkering job. Seriously tell me what you think. What is good about them as well as what is wrong.
Have at it.
Don't know why 1 is upside down
Complete ingnoramus here......
#1 - if I’d done this, I’d think I was the man.
#2 - should the checkering be that close together? Seems like we should be seeing more of the grain in the non carved areas.
#3 - should there be a bevel around the edges so that there is less of a drop off from the grip to the frame??
#1 - if I’d done this, I’d think I was the man.
#2 - should the checkering be that close together? Seems like we should be seeing more of the grain in the non carved areas.
#3 - should there be a bevel around the edges so that there is less of a drop off from the grip to the frame??
I like the looks of the checkering. As @Rockchucker says above, they do look like they need some rounding/beveling along the edges. How do they feel in the hand?
Oh, and you might want to wipe off that mustard.
(If only I was as funny as I think I am...)
Oh, and you might want to wipe off that mustard.
(If only I was as funny as I think I am...)
OP
The bottom and top of each one does have a slight bevel it is just not visible with the angle of the pic. The front and back edge not so much and they are somewhat thicker than the originals because I have big hands and I wanted them a little thicker. I do agree now that you mention it that I should have beveled the top and bottom more and added more of a taper to the front and back edges.
As far as the spacing of the lines they are at 16 lpi which as far as I know is about as wide as they come. Normal is either 16, 18, 20, or 24 lines per inch. I suppose you could hand space them and cut with a single line cutter but I used a tool that puts it to 16 lpi. There are cutters that leave a flat top diamond but I am just getting started in this. Maybe someday.
Keep the critiques coming. That is just what I wanted.
As far as the spacing of the lines they are at 16 lpi which as far as I know is about as wide as they come. Normal is either 16, 18, 20, or 24 lines per inch. I suppose you could hand space them and cut with a single line cutter but I used a tool that puts it to 16 lpi. There are cutters that leave a flat top diamond but I am just getting started in this. Maybe someday.
Keep the critiques coming. That is just what I wanted.
The spacing on a couple of lines on the right panel looks a wee bit off & that panel is a bit shorter than the other, but otherwise great work.
If that's your first try I'd say Great. The right finish will make that grain Jump!
OP
Damn I had not noticed the shorter panel. I actually traced the old ones and used that as a pattern for the new ones. Never noticed one was shorter. Yes for some reason the spacing got off on that one. Don't know why since I was using a spacing tool. But then the tools are old. I got them from an auction of an old gunsmiths estate who lived close to me. The box they came in was dated something like 1989 and they were well used. If this turns out ok after the finish is applied I might spring for a new set.
Truth be told that was actually the third attempt on the same panels. I made them to shape but thicker than needed and started the checkering. Didn't like the first two attempt so I just sanded them out and started again. This is the first attempt that I completed.
Thanks for the input. It can only serve to make future attempts better.
Chdamn
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Yeah that’s my only complaint. Well that’s not the right word.
Look, close up with those pics, scrutinizing the details I can see some of the rows are narrower than others. And as he said one panel is shorter. And as you do more and get better you’ll find ways to end the edges better.
Buuuuut, you put a a finish on that it’ll look great.
Those are winners for sure.
You’re trying to tackle two skills at once, making grips and checkering. Just to save time, maybe try making a few sets of smooth grips so you get happy with the size and shape.
Post up some tool pics if you get a minute, and from what resource are you teaching yourself?
You’re trying to tackle two skills at once, making grips and checkering. Just to save time, maybe try making a few sets of smooth grips so you get happy with the size and shape.
Post up some tool pics if you get a minute, and from what resource are you teaching yourself?
Chad & JimB both have the right of it. That's still some damned strong work & you'll only get better from here. Keep on pushin' & honing your skills.
OP
Thanks again for the kind words and constructive criticisms. As far as making grips goes this ain't my first rodeo. I have already made a smooth set for this gun. They are currently on it now till the finish dries on these. I also made a set a while back for a wheel gun. I will post some pics of both. 
Here is one shot of the smooth ones . I will dig up pics of the wheel fun soon.
Here is one shot of the smooth ones . I will dig up pics of the wheel fun soon.
OP
Thought i would also post this so you could see how these grips started out. This is how they began.
This is part of a block of black walnut a customer of mine gave me.
This after the table saw and planer.
This is part of a block of black walnut a customer of mine gave me.
This after the table saw and planer.
Learn how to bevel the edges so they blend into the frame more smoothly and make lighter cuts when spacing over to the next line. The lighter cuts will better guide the spacer leg of the cutter and then deepen gradually. With practice you'll get better.....
Since you said your cutters were old they may also be dull and that's what's causing the variation in depth. A new set will only set you back about 30 bucks or so and move up to 18 or 20 lpi so things even out in the pattern..
Since you said your cutters were old they may also be dull and that's what's causing the variation in depth. A new set will only set you back about 30 bucks or so and move up to 18 or 20 lpi so things even out in the pattern..
OP
OP
Here are more of the shaping.
OP
Here is what the inside looks like.
And here is the finished product with a shot of the original plastic ones.
And one more.
And here is the finished product with a shot of the original plastic ones.
And one more.
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OP
Got any hair left on your head??? Or have you pulled all of it out??
OP
OP
Some one wanted to see the tools. Here they are. And I checked the box and the paperwork is dated 1984. And the price sticker on the box shows $18.95.
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OP
And here they are with a second coat of stock finish.
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That's a "hodge poge" set, the best kind to have.
OP
Same thing I thought when i started. Never know what you can do till ya try. Got something you wanna try go for it.
OP
Nothing wrong with smooth grips. I made several pair. I did find that correct lighting is essential for checkering.
GEORGE ANTONAKAKIS
New Member
I see that you have a passion for this. If you are notfar from the Concord area, you could stop by my shop and I can give you some pointers from someone with 20 years experience. Keep up the good work
OP
midlandgunner
Happy to be here
Nice work! I've tried checkering before, and it's certainly not easy!