My bathroom looks...

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Lawless

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Like this tonight.

413049356.jpg
 
My floor was getting soft in the bathroom, heck the house was built in 73.

I got all the plywood out and found some rot on the joists too, so....

Decided to replace them too. I could have scabbed them but I wanted all the bad out.
I don't like not doing stuff the best way possible.

So I will hopefully get the joists replaced tomorrow and maybe the plywood in.

The back part with the concrete floor was an outside utility room but was changed to bathroom space long ago, that is why the beam is there.
Joists were added from the beam all the way to the band. I have them out already.
The front joists run under my hallway about 15" so I can only do a couple at a time to keep the floor from being hurt.

The new joists will run all the way to the band with no beam.

All new plumbing too.....

Working all by myself...... :(
 
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I feel for you. I have done the same to my bathroom by myself. I got the basics back in in a week. Took me six months to get it all trimmed out and pssing inspection of the wife.
 
Good luck with that....oh how I hate doing bathrooms. I'd rather finish drywall (and I hate finishing drywall). No room to work.
 
I had to replace my parents bathroom and make it handicap accessible. They had a leak and didn't know it, I had to replace joist as well. I feel for you, it took me five 12-14hour days to get it fixed.
 
I need to do that to mine, but 60% of it is tile with two inches of mortar behind it, and there is a finished room underneath. That bathroom is like a bank vault, only the tile is just worn out.
 
That looks fun! Kinda.

It will be well worth it when you're done.
 
Lawless;n29809 said:
Like this tonight.

413049356.jpg
Click to expand...

This is what happens when you let women take over a bathroom. Sorta like a 24 roll of tp just disappearing in a week. You know something went down, you don't know how it happened, but you know you don't wanna know the answer. Just fix the situation is the reality..
 
Grits;n29829 said:
I feel for you. I have done the same to my bathroom by myself. I got the basics back in in a week. Took me six months to get it all trimmed out and pssing inspection of the wife.
Click to expand...

My goal is to have the toilet back in and the tub set and plumbed by Saturday. The vanity can wait if need be.
I did my mother in law's last year during this same week. Had it completely done in a week but the tub stayed put and the joists were fine.
 
Trevillian;n30016 said:
This is what happens when you let women take over a bathroom. Sorta like a 24 roll of tp just disappearing in a week. You know something went down, you don't know how it happened, but you know you don't wanna know the answer. Just fix the situation is the reality..
Click to expand...

LOL.

I know the tub cracked a few years ago and I repaired it, but once wood is wet it is just a matter of time.
Interestingly, I found that something under the vanity must have had a tiny drip as well at some point because the plywood was completely rotten although currently dry.
I stepped through it once the vanity was out, like to have really hurt my bad knee but after a few minutes was able to get back at it.


Once I get the plywood back in, it will go much faster. Been here many times at work and for family. But not having help is a PITA.
Everyone has to work but me LOL, and I'm working way harder than any of them...
 
Been there and done that a couple of times.
 
Uggghhhh. Back spasms. I was really careful but it's gonna be a bad day.
 
I feel your pain, have had them myself and they SUCK!!! Take it easy and hope they go away soon
 
Been there a couple times myself. Hang tough!
 
looks like you literally crapped bricks
 
OK, because the joists run under my hallway about 15" to the center beam, I had to be careful and only remove 1 or 2 joists at a time. It was slow going having to stop and cut out the old stuff. Thank goodness for sawzalls and long demo blades LOL. I had to measure from the outermost joist to the left for the second to the left so I would have room for my shower drain. That's why the spacing difference. It is already so nice and solid. Once the 3/4 Plytanium goes down it will be golden. I used the framing nailer to tack stuff in place, but everything is screwed with 3.5" outdoor decking screws. I still have some blocking to do but I will get the ply down today before I crap out.

Looking better. Lunch break.

[IMG2=JSON]{"data-align":"none","data-size":"full","src":"http:\/\/pic20.picturetrail.com\/VOL1588\/13743270\/24733842\/413050916.jpg"}[/IMG2]
 
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Well I am a pooped dude. After lunchtime, I cleaned all of the small debris from under the bathroom floor. Sweeping plastic sheet is....an experience. I then put my blocks in at the hallway wall. This is how I like to do it, I put a full block under the existing hallway plywood and then put a separate block in for the new plywood. This gives plenty of support at the critical junction of old and new. I put a 2x8 flat at the doorway with a 2x6 vertical under it so that there is plenty of room there for whatever transition I have to create between the hall and the new floor.
[IMG2=JSON]{"data-align":"none","data-size":"full","src":"http:\/\/pic20.picturetrail.com\/VOL1588\/13743270\/24733842\/413050979.jpg"}[/IMG2]
[IMG2=JSON]{"data-align":"none","data-size":"full","src":"http:\/\/pic20.picturetrail.com\/VOL1588\/13743270\/24733842\/413050980.jpg"}[/IMG2]





After I notched (for the doorway) and cut to size the first piece of 3/4 sanded BC Plytanium, I installed it and measured to the back wall to insure it was square. This keeps you from having to rip the last piece at any sort of angle. After I tacked it into place with the framing nailer (with #8s) at the front wall, I made sure that the spacing on the joists was correct at the back edge before nailing. This keeps you from having to cut your blocks all different lengths. Then I cut the blocks from 2x4 and installed. I did the same thing for the next joint. Don's skip this step. It will keep the floor level at the joints and also make it less bouncy by positively connecting the joists together. You can use 2x8 or whatever, but out here 2x4 is plenty.
[IMG2=JSON]{"data-align":"none","data-size":"full","src":"http:\/\/pic20.picturetrail.com\/VOL1588\/13743270\/24733842\/413051305.jpg"}[/IMG2]





Plywood is down and tacked into position everywhere and partially screwed down with 2.5" deck screws. My batteries were dead (the drill batteries too :) ) and I will pick up tomorrow with screwing it all down after i get all of the debris to the street, the trash guys come tomorrow and i gotta have it out there by about 9.
[IMG2=JSON]{"data-align":"none","data-size":"full","src":"http:\/\/pic20.picturetrail.com\/VOL1588\/13743270\/24733842\/413051468.jpg"}[/IMG2]
 
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concepthomes1;n31671 said:
When you're using screws in place of nails, be aware of shear force and direction. Lately, Meck county has been hammering me for having screws where nails really would be the better choice.

I'm talking about 16d framing nails.
Click to expand...

He's hammering you because screws are made from harder steel than nails and don't resist shear forces well. Diaphragm shear is rarely an issue with an interior bathroom floor like Paul is working on, but it is definitely an issue with roof decking and wall sheathing, tho.
 
trcubed;n31795 said:
He's hammering you because screws are made from harder steel than nails and don't resist shear forces well. Diaphragm shear is rarely an issue with an interior bathroom floor like Paul is working on, but it is definitely an issue with roof decking and wall sheathing, tho.
Click to expand...

Yeah, I don't think the floor will get much shear....unless i get all y'all in there....
 
trcubed said:
concepthomes1;n31671 said:
When you're using screws in place of nails, be aware of shear force and direction. Lately, Meck county has been hammering me for having screws where nails really would be the better choice.

I'm talking about 16d framing nails.
Click to expand...

He's hammering you because screws are made from harder steel than nails and don't resist shear forces well. Diaphragm shear is rarely an issue with an interior bathroom floor like Paul is working on, but it is definitely an issue with roof decking and wall sheathing, tho.
Click to expand...
The screws would be in shear in that application, but at a pretty minor level. Sounds like the inspector was having a bad day and taking it out on you.

That's actually a really good place to use screws.
 
Hey 'Law...my back is in constant turmoil. Somedays it's got me bent, but I still gotta go to work being as valuable as I am. :rolleyes:
Remedies;
Aleve. Excellent at relieving muscle pain. No good for headaches. Use only when necessary.
Stretchy back brace. $15 at Wal Mart and worth 3x that much.
When pain is bad, get some of those heating wraps that go around the lower back. You know..the kind that heat up when you expose it to air. About $6 for two and work for a solid 6 hours. The Doc will rag you about them, says they just mask pain when you really should be in bed. But Doctors don't have to be on ladders all day either. They'll get you through the day.

Project looks good though. Nice work.
 
Looking great. Careful with your back.
 
Lawless said:
Well I am a pooped dude. After lunchtime, I cleaned all of the small debris from under the bathroom floor. Sweeping plastic sheet is....an experience. I then put my blocks in at the hallway wall. This is how I like to do it, I put a full block under the existing hallway plywood and then put a separate block in for the new plywood. This gives plenty of support at the critical junction of old and new. I put a 2x8 flat at the doorway with a 2x6 vertical under it so that there is plenty of room there for whatever transition I have to create between the hall and the new floor.
[IMG2=JSON]{"data-align":"none","data-size":"full","src":"http:\/\/pic20.picturetrail.com\/VOL1588\/13743270\/24733842\/413050979.jpg"}[/IMG2]
[IMG2=JSON]{"data-align":"none","data-size":"full","src":"http:\/\/pic20.picturetrail.com\/VOL1588\/13743270\/24733842\/413050980.jpg"}[/IMG2]





After I notched (for the doorway) and cut to size the first piece of 3/4 sanded BC Plytanium, I installed it and measured to the back wall to insure it was square. This keeps you from having to rip the last piece at any sort of angle. After I tacked it into place with the framing nailer (with #8s) at the front wall, I made sure that the spacing on the joists was correct at the back edge before nailing. This keeps you from having to cut your blocks all different lengths. Then I cut the blocks from 2x4 and installed. I did the same thing for the next joint. Don's skip this step. It will keep the floor level at the joints and also make it less bouncy by positively connecting the joists together. You can use 2x8 or whatever, but out here 2x4 is plenty.
[IMG2=JSON]{"data-align":"none","data-size":"full","src":"http:\/\/pic20.picturetrail.com\/VOL1588\/13743270\/24733842\/413051305.jpg"}[/IMG2]





Plywood is down and tacked into position everywhere and partially screwed down with 2.5" deck screws. My batteries were dead (the drill batteries too :) ) and I will pick up tomorrow with screwing it all down after i get all of the debris to the street, the trash guys come tomorrow and i gotta have it out there by about 9.
[IMG2=JSON]{"data-align":"none","data-size":"full","src":"http:\/\/pic20.picturetrail.com\/VOL1588\/13743270\/24733842\/413051468.jpg"}[/IMG2]
Click to expand...
Looking good, Paul. You've done a good job on that floor.
 
Lawless said:
Well I am a pooped dude. After lunchtime, I cleaned all of the small debris from under the bathroom floor. Sweeping plastic sheet is....an experience. I then put my blocks in at the hallway wall. This is how I like to do it, I put a full block under the existing hallway plywood and then put a separate block in for the new plywood. This gives plenty of support at the critical junction of old and new. I put a 2x8 flat at the doorway with a 2x6 vertical under it so that there is plenty of room there for whatever transition I have to create between the hall and the new floor.
[IMG2=JSON]{"data-align":"none","data-size":"full","src":"http:\/\/pic20.picturetrail.com\/VOL1588\/13743270\/24733842\/413050979.jpg"}[/IMG2]
[IMG2=JSON]{"data-align":"none","data-size":"full","src":"http:\/\/pic20.picturetrail.com\/VOL1588\/13743270\/24733842\/413050980.jpg"}[/IMG2]





After I notched (for the doorway) and cut to size the first piece of 3/4 sanded BC Plytanium, I installed it and measured to the back wall to insure it was square. This keeps you from having to rip the last piece at any sort of angle. After I tacked it into place with the framing nailer (with #8s) at the front wall, I made sure that the spacing on the joists was correct at the back edge before nailing. This keeps you from having to cut your blocks all different lengths. Then I cut the blocks from 2x4 and installed. I did the same thing for the next joint. Don's skip this step. It will keep the floor level at the joints and also make it less bouncy by positively connecting the joists together. You can use 2x8 or whatever, but out here 2x4 is plenty.
[IMG2=JSON]{"data-align":"none","data-size":"full","src":"http:\/\/pic20.picturetrail.com\/VOL1588\/13743270\/24733842\/413051305.jpg"}[/IMG2]





Plywood is down and tacked into position everywhere and partially screwed down with 2.5" deck screws. My batteries were dead (the drill batteries too :) ) and I will pick up tomorrow with screwing it all down after i get all of the debris to the street, the trash guys come tomorrow and i gotta have it out there by about 9.
[IMG2=JSON]{"data-align":"none","data-size":"full","src":"http:\/\/pic20.picturetrail.com\/VOL1588\/13743270\/24733842\/413051468.jpg"}[/IMG2]
Click to expand...
Thank you brother. I have been here many times before but not on my own house. Last year during this week I redid my MIL's bathroom down to the joists. In February I put bead board in my BIL's bathroom and all new trim, vinyl floor and tub/surround. New vanity and toilet too.

I have sort of gotten the rep as the bathroom guy. We do plenty of bathrooms at work too.
I was supposed to just work a little part time but it has become a full time gig LOL.

I think I am gonna cut grass on my own starting this spring. I am getting too old to keep doing this shiz.
All i need is about 15 or so residential grass customers and I will put the tools down :)
 
trcubed said:
concepthomes1;n31671 said:
When you're using screws in place of nails, be aware of shear force and direction. Lately, Meck county has been hammering me for having screws where nails really would be the better choice.

I'm talking about 16d framing nails.
Click to expand...

He's hammering you because screws are made from harder steel than nails and don't resist shear forces well. Diaphragm shear is rarely an issue with an interior bathroom floor like Paul is working on, but it is definitely an issue with roof decking and wall sheathing, tho.
Click to expand...
I agree Terry. There is not enough force on those steps to amount to breaking screws. I have seen guys use drywall screws in applications like that and I DON"T like that. They break very easily with shear cycles. Deck screws are way more ductile and hard to break. Drive one in a 4x4 and hit it with a hammer to bend it. It will bend over like a nail. Not as ductile as a 16D but plenty stout for floor joists in my opinion. I have hangers in place anyway... I can't tell you how many decks I have built with deck screws and never a problem. My own deck has one small portion that is 30+ years old. Screws were rarely used back then by most guys. Now it's standard.
 
Friday;n31833 said:
Hey 'Law...my back is in constant turmoil. Somedays it's got me bent, but I still gotta go to work being as valuable as I am. :rolleyes:
Remedies;
Aleve. Excellent at relieving muscle pain. No good for headaches. Use only when necessary.
Stretchy back brace. $15 at Wal Mart and worth 3x that much.
When pain is bad, get some of those heating wraps that go around the lower back. You know..the kind that heat up when you expose it to air. About $6 for two and work for a solid 6 hours. The Doc will rag you about them, says they just mask pain when you really should be in bed. But Doctors don't have to be on ladders all day either. They'll get you through the day.

Project looks good though. Nice work.
Click to expand...

I appreciate the suggestions brother, but it's way worse than that. I have 3 disks in my lower back that are damaged. One is ruptured, 2 are herniated.

I get along OK most days but have to careful. Twisting with a load is a strict NO NO but I have been dealing with it so long I am very practiced at not doing it.

I take lots of RX but I never take any narcotics, I won't go down that road. I take a nerve pain blocker, a strong Nsaid and occasionally a Tramadol. I use my inversion table daily and my TENS unit most days once I am home. The contractor I work for is a friend and he pays me for what I know more than for hard physical stuff. We have young guys for the heavy lifting LOL.

I had surgery to fuse 3 verts in my neck about 12 years ago, but the issue with my lower is not operable. Seen the best surgeon in the state and he just shook my hand and told me that maybe something would be developed in a few years. The arthritis growth in the nerve channels is the issue that can't be fixed.

I am not a lazy man, and I will keep going as long as I can. Some days are tough though. My wife retires in 2 years, we are moving to Surry county in the mountains to live out our days as the closet hillbillys we really are.
 
OK, we decided to change our double vanity out for 2 small vanities. The old one was usable but would have needed some work....and anyhoo what's the point of a remodel without new ideas? So we picked them up, they are in the garage. We are keeping our same toilet, it's like an old friend.... We decided we wanted to go from our blue and creme airy bathroom to a dramatic darker earth tone scheme. but with white accents and trim. The new steel tub is white, the toilet is white and the vanities are white with sort of a brown marble top and white underhung sinks.

We picked a nice vinyl that was the same brand as we bought for my MIL's bathroom but in a different pattern. We knew hers to be nice and durable with a thick profile. I do lots of bathroom work with the guy I work for and one thing I know. Say what you want but in bathrooms vinyl is trouble free and needs no upkeep beyond a mop once in a while.

I got the vinyl put down Thursday night. I measured it out carefully before I was satisfied that it would not be crooked against the tub or vanities. Pet peeve but crooked lines drive me crazy. It's a nice dark brown rusty sorta faux tile looking sheet vinyl. I like it.

[IMG2=JSON]{"data-align":"none","data-size":"full","src":"http:\/\/pic20.picturetrail.com\/VOL1588\/13743270\/24733842\/413053622.jpg"}[/IMG2]


Today, I set about replumbing everything from scratch. There was an issue with the old 3" main drain I had to repair which made doing the rest over in a better way a necessity. The goal today was to get the toilet back in and working. I set the flange and set about routing the drain PVC. I am running a new vent for it as well. I used nice hangers for the vent and will use them for the tub and sink drains. I had installed two valves on the bathroom supply copper when I did the demo. I connected these to Pex and ran Pex for the toilet. I plan to use it for everything. I love Pex..... All in all everything went smoothly and we can poop at home again. Tomorrow I start setting the tub and plumbing it.

[IMG2=JSON]{"data-align":"none","data-size":"full","src":"http:\/\/pic20.picturetrail.com\/VOL1588\/13743270\/24733842\/413054807.jpg"}[/IMG2]

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Gotta get some new A/C flex duct too......



:)
 
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Lawless;n32320 said:
Twisting with a load is a strict NO NO but I have been dealing with it so long I am very practiced at not doing it.

I take lots of RX but I never take any narcotics, I won't go down that road. I take a nerve pain blocker, a strong Nsaid and occasionally a Tramadol. I use my inversion table daily and my TENS unit most days once I am home. The contractor I work for is a friend and he pays me for what I know more than for hard physical stuff. We have young guys for the heavy lifting LOL.
Click to expand...

Tramadol has been a life changer for me, along with the inversion table. Non operable here as well, I herniated L-1-2-3 and have too many spinal compressions to count, never mind my knees.

What is the nerve pain blocker you take? I tried the injection route with no luck.. Always looking for something better.

Nice work btw, I really do appreciate your work knowing your condition first hand,.,
 
Johnny;n32646 said:
never mind my knees.

What is the nerve pain blocker you take? I tried the injection route with no luck..
Click to expand...

I take Gabapentin, some days up to 2400mg. It works great for the pain caused by nerve root damage. I had so many injections in my disk spaces and facet joints that my back looked like a sieve LOL

I just got a series in my knee of a lubricating substance. I get cortisone every 3 months. The lube seems to really help.
http://www.webmd.com/osteoarthritis/guide/hyaluronan-injections-knee
 
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