Need Advice On Stone Cutting

Qball

Qball

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I have this 24" square stone cap that I need to cut. I'm pretty sure its limestone. I just need to cut it in half. I've got this diamond blade for my circular saw to do the job. Should I cut it wet or dry, and is there anything else I should know about this? Thanks for any input. I still have two arms, eight fingers, and two thumbs and would like to stay that way.:D


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You should be good to go dry cutting. I cut PA pink sandstone for a hearth with diamond blade... and I had no 'sperience. Eyes & ears, of course... Used a 4-1/2" grinder and scored a chalk line, repeatedly--about an 1/8" each cut.

I didn't need a perfect edge, but it came out pretty good anyway.

EDIT: I found I had more control pulling it toward me. Make sure you've got the tool positioned so the direction of blade spin is counter to the direction of pull, kinda like a router.
 
Windini said:
You should be good to go dry cutting. I cut PA pink sandstone for a hearth with diamond blade... and I had no 'sperience. Eyes & ears, of course... Used a 4-1/2" grinder and scored a chalk line, repeatedly--about an 1/8" each cut.

I didn't need a perfect edge, but it came out pretty good anyway.

EDIT: I found I had more control pulling it toward me. Make sure you've got the tool positioned so the direction of blade spin is counter to the direction of pull, kinda like a router.
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Thank you sir.
 
What Steve said.

To add, if you're using a typical hand-held electric circular saw, they aren't built for wet work. Also, if it's indeed limestone, you probably won't have to cut it all the way thru...just a good deep score mark and it should break straight. In fact, if you want a clean, cut edge the full slab depth, you'll need to fully support both halves to KEEP it from breaking before you finish the cut.
 
trcubed said:
What Steve said.

To add, if you're using a typical hand-held electric circular saw, they aren't built for wet work. Also, if it's indeed limestone, you probably won't have to cut it all the way thru...just a good deep score mark and it should break straight. In fact, if you want a clean, cut edge the full slab depth, you'll need to fully support both halves to KEEP it from breaking before you finish the cut.
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Thanks Terry.
 
From what I gather from the advice above, I can dry cut this stone cap using incremental cuts as long as the stone is fully supported underneath so the weight of the stone won't cause a premature break. Pull the saw instead of push and make sure the blade is spinning the opposite direction of saw travel. Got it. Even though the cut doesn't need to be perfect, I think I'll rig up a jig to guide the saw instead of trying to follow a line. I appreciate the valued advice gentlemen........... Dave
 
trcubed said:
You'll need to push your saw, Dave. Steve was referring to pulling a side grinder thru the cut because the rotation of the grinder is opposite a circular saw.
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Yes!

Whatever tool you're using, go in the opposite direction of blade spin! For example, picture a table saw vs. a skilsaw (name brand, but you get the idea: hand held carpenter's saw). On the tablesaw, blade sticks up out of the platen (table) and spins toward you; with the skilsaw, the platen (shoe) rests on the workpiece and the blade spins away from you.

On the tablesaw, you push the workpiece into the blade; with the skilsaw, you push the saw into the workpiece. In both cases, the work feeds into a blade spinning towards the workpiece.
 
trcubed said:
You'll need to push your saw, Dave. Steve was referring to pulling a side grinder thru the cut because the rotation of the grinder is opposite a circular saw.
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Gotcha. Thanks again guys. I'm clueless on this sort of stuff.
 
Are you absolutely sure that's not concrete poured to resemble rough edges?

I would go circular saw dry, outdoors, in a breeze and only set the saw to score the surface making as many passes as it takes. Nothing will ruin a job faster than rushing it.
 
I used to use an old steel skilsaw with a diamond blade on anything stone, brick or concrete. Always had a drip of water going too. Really keeps the dust down. Clear the sludge from the guard when done with the cutting for the day.
 
Screw dry cutting... If you don't have the right gear to wet cut it, I'd make sure your using a grounded tool and set a gallon of water on the corner of it with a small hole towards the cut line in it to keep it wet. Won't be enough water to hurt the saw or create an shock hazard, but will eliminate the dust, give you a better/cleaner/quicker cut, and save your blade. You can clean the saw up easily afterwards. Dry cutting will burn that diamond blade up quicker than you think. Wet, it will last a LONG time. You also DO NOT want to breathe that dust. If you do it dry, even outside in a breeze, wear a good mask.
 
I have cut flagstone of similar thickness with a diamond blade in a circular saw, and I didn't need perfectly clean edges so I cut about 3/4 of the way through and then broke it over a board with a mallet.

You have a good idea to use a guide/ jig... That will let you focus on pushing it through more than steering/following a line. I'd suggest you just take it slow and do it in one pass if your blade is deep enough and you want a clean edge... No need to keep it aligned twice or take a chance of the saw twisting and blowing the edge if you can avoid it.

Like was said, dust is a big deal. I had a helper spray water on the cut at the blade's leading edge, and that kept the dust down while cooling the blade. You should have the saw in a GFCI outlet if you go that route and keep the water off the saw itself as much as possible.

A helper could also use a floor fan or leaf blower to blow dust away, or use a shop vac to pull it up, as you cut... I've gone that route when I was cutting control joints in a slab.

Good luck, and wear gloves!
 
Guys, I can't thank you enough for the sound advice. I'll post a follow up after I'm done with the cut to let you know how it turned out. I'll get to it in a few days. I'm not sure if this cap is molded concrete or real stone. I bought it from Marshall Stone in Colfax. I'll post a cross section pic after the cut and maybe y'all could tell if it's actual stone or concrete. Thanks again gents.
 
Dust mask!
Make small cuts on both sides to limit where it breaks.
 
+1 for wet cut to keep the dust down. I have two portable tools for that type of job. One is a side grinder with diamond blade. It's for the occasional cut and I run it dry but it makes tons of dust. If I have more to do, I have a small Skil set up with diamond blade and continuous water, think a Skill saw for tile work, but it works great on stone.
 
Qball said:
Guys, I can't thank you enough for the sound advice. I'll post a follow up after I'm done with the cut to let you know how it turned out. I'll get to it in a few days. I'm not sure if this cap is molded concrete or real stone. I bought it from Marshall Stone in Colfax. I'll post a cross section pic after the cut and maybe y'all could tell if it's actual stone or concrete. Thanks again gents.
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Wait! You can't just go do it--we're not finished tellin' you how yet! ;)
 
Silicosis... look it up Dave
 
Burt Gummer said:
Silicosis... look it up Dave
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Yeah. I'll definitively be wearing a nice respirator and not one of those cheap disposable masks. I've done a lot of different types of work before, but I've never cut stone, concrete, tile, etc.... before. Thanks again guys.
 
BASIL said:
Bring it by work, and we can cut it on the water jet.
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That's an awesome gesture Steve and I sincerely appreciate the offer. I like trying new things just to learn. Sometimes the learning turns out okay and sometimes it doesn't.:D
I could send it out to one of our manufacturing facilities and have them cut it with one of their high pressure water jets, but I'm quite certain it wouldn't survive the trip in the tractor. It would come back to me in pieces probably. Anyway, thanks for the offer sir.​
 
There used to be a waterjet outfit in GSO somewhere near Elm Eugene. Don't remember exactly where or know if they're still in business. They'd waterjet about anything and their machine used an abrasive slurry to cut.
 
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