Not sure how to do this - but would like to setup a research thread

KnotRight

KnotRight

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There are so many different manufacturers of AR parts it is hard to decide which one to buy on a build.

Would like to have it broken down from basic stocks on up the line.
Then working forward to buffer tubes and springs
Spring kits
Triggers
Lowers
Receivers
Bolts
Barrels (types and material)
Breaks and flash hiders.
The the add-on such as dust covers, charging handles, pivot pins and what ever I forgot about.

The above would be helpful in a price range could be established and the pro and cons of the parts.

I know when I built my AR-9 from scratch, I spent what too much money buying the same parts acouple of times because I did not like what I bought the first time.

I know I am asking a lot but think how helpful this will be in the future. and make it a sticky
 
Meh....things change far too often. Quality comes and goes, many parts are so subjective in nature re: which is "better".

For the major components, there are a bunch of resources in the 'webz that attempt what you're after but they....get outdated quickly and are prone to much subjective back and forth re: what constitutes 'better'.

Case in point...AR lowers will immediately bring out the "$40 Anderson runs just as good as the $300 LaRue" to be immediately followed by "Only the $300 LaRue is capable of doing the job when your life is on the line!"
 
A lot of this info is discussed over on AR15.com.

Tim posted as I was posting the above. Commenting on his post, it would be a shorter list to discuss what products to stay away from.
 
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Someone should post the Chart... It's still pretty relevant and a good starting point.

You just need to read a lot on M4C and AR15.com. Also, we cant help you with what you like and don't like. There's only one way around not rebuying stuff, and that's making friends and trying their stuff before you buy. I've retooled my collection and builds literally 100 times in the last 10 years. Just part of learning the platform and my tastes evolving.
 
JRHorne said:
Someone should post the Chart... It's still pretty relevant and a good starting point.

You just need to read a lot on M4C and AR15.com. Also, we cant help you with what you like and don't like. There's only one way around not rebuying stuff, and that's making friends and trying their stuff before you buy. I've retooled my collection and builds literally 100 times in the last 10 years. Just part of learning the platform and my tastes evolving.
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The Chart was awesome, not sure of M4C still has it. The guy who put it together has been gone (banned? There was a story....) for a while. But The Chart, it was excellent. Maybe you can reproduce it? ;)
 
I could find it I'm sure. And wasn't it Rob_S of tactical yellow visor who did it originally? I think he got mad at the way the M4C mods handled the site and went on a tirade that got him banned.
 
georgel said:
Commenting on his post, it would be a shorter list to discuss what products to stay away from.
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And then for every one of those products, somebody will have a “I ran one of those for 10,000 rounds without a single hiccup” experience to share. :D
 
BigWaylon said:
And then for every one of those products, somebody will have a “I ran one of those for 10,000 rounds without a single hiccup” experience to share. :D
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That's the benefit of The Chart: it's data-driven; all objective. There could be another with subjective data: tried that, but it didn't work for me because XXXXXX....
 
Decent AR parts and rifles are so affordable now, you could afford to buy several different parts from several different brands of whatever, try em to see if they work for YOU and your particular budget/need/performance, and sell em off at a profit in the near future.

I buy parts constantly and upgrade stuff a little at a time, and then give it away to my friends and family. Just put a decent 4.5lb trigger in my nephews' basic PSA middy AR, and it's like a new rifle to him. He went thru Army basic and was like "all those triggers suck" so I knew it was time.
 
I remember when the chart came out. But back then there was only about a 10-12 manufactures. So many different items now days and new stuff every week. Best advice I can give after building ARs since 87' is to get a basic gun, put rounds down range and learn the system. After that you can make an assessment on what needs to be changed. Your changes can happen several times a year and a decade later your back to a KISS gun. Just use those parts to build new guns :D

CD
 
Combat Diver said:
I remember when the chart came out. But back then there was only about a 10-12 manufactures. So many different items now days and new stuff every week. Best advice I can give after building ARs since 87' is to get a basic gun, put rounds down range and learn the system. After that you can make an assessment on what needs to be changed. Your changes can happen several times a year and a decade later your back to a KISS gun. Just use those parts to build new guns :D

CD
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^ gospel. From someone I think will forget more stuff about more guns that many of us will ever learn!
 
Let me readdress barrels first. There are barrels out there that $80 to $400. If I wanted a good barrel for playing around with where would you start? What would you start looking for (20")? Does it really make a difference in steel vs stainless steel?

Then of the smaller parts such as pins, detents and springs, what brand are you looking at? A while back I bought a bunch of smaller parts from PSA just to have around.
 
KnotRight said:
Let me readdress barrels first. There are barrels out there that $80 to $400. If I wanted a good barrel for playing around with where would you start? What would you start looking for (20")? Does it really make a difference in steel vs stainless steel?

Then of the smaller parts such as pins, detents and springs, what brand are you looking at? A while back I bought a bunch of smaller parts from PSA just to have around.
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Start a new thread addressing nothing but barrels. State your desired level of performance/cost etc.

I would say bottom of the barrel would be BCA and AR stoner, and Lilja and Noveske up near the top.
 
Ikarus1 said:
Start a new thread addressing nothing but barrels. State your desired level of performance/cost etc.

I would say bottom of the barrel would be BCA and AR stoner, and Lilja and Noveske up near the top.
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This is what The Chart did: it qualified rifles and parts, based on metrics and QA/QI and manufacturing processes.
 
KnotRight said:
Let me readdress barrels first. There are barrels out there that $80 to $400. If I wanted a good barrel for playing around with where would you start? What would you start looking for (20")? Does it really make a difference in steel vs stainless steel?

Then of the smaller parts such as pins, detents and springs, what brand are you looking at? A while back I bought a bunch of smaller parts from PSA just to have around.
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As Ikarus1 stated what is your goal. Lots of plinkers out there. I would also suggest Green Mountain Barrels.

CD
 
KnotRight said:
Let me readdress barrels first. There are barrels out there that $80 to $400. If I wanted a good barrel for playing around with where would you start? What would you start looking for (20")? Does it really make a difference in steel vs stainless steel?

Then of the smaller parts such as pins, detents and springs, what brand are you looking at? A while back I bought a bunch of smaller parts from PSA just to have around.
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What is the desired goal of the widget about which you seek information? In this case, said barrel. Manufacturing process and material do make a difference. "Playing around?" Just a range rifle?
 
The goal of this built is just to do it. The goal of this rifle would be shooting steel maybe out to 400 yards. That is the reason for the 20" barrel. Not sure how well an AR platform would straight out past that distance.
 
KnotRight said:
The goal of this built is just to do it. The goal of this rifle would be shooting steel maybe out to 400 yards. That is the reason for the 20" barrel. Not sure how well an AR platform would straight out past that distance.
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A 14.7"/16" will certainly hit steel at 400, very precisely with the right optic. Stainless steel tends to be "match grade" by manufacturers, are 'more accurate'. 20" will certainly get 'er done. White Oak, Faxon, BCM, Daniel Defense, Noveske, Ballistic Advantage, Ranier, Criterion, Krieger, Douglas. Prices vary. WOA, Criterion, Krieger, and Douglas are geared toward precision/competition (not that the others can't). Faxon has built a cult-like following with some guys at M4Carbine.net.

https://blog.cheaperthandirt.com/ar-15-barrels-101/

https://www.pewpewtactical.com/best-ar-barrels/

Edited: For the record, I have had ARs of most variations and with many of the barrels here, and have zero issues.
 
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Here are the first 3 parts that I just got in, Aero lower and receiver and a ALG trigger. Not sure where the Aero stands in quality. As you can see the lower is stripped and will need everything to complete it. That is some of the smaller parts I am not sure what brand to get.

AR Parts.jpg
 
KnotRight said:
Here are the first 3 parts that I just got in, Aero lower and receiver and a ALG trigger. Not sure where the Aero stands in quality. As you can see the lower is stripped and will need everything to complete it. That is some of the smaller parts I am not sure what brand to get.

View attachment 94143
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Good start. I'd get a lower parts kit from CMMG or an entire build kit with Magpul furniture from PSA, a Midwest/Aero/etc rail and your barrel of choice. It will likely turn out more accurate than you are. Good luck with the build.
 
Aero is good stuff. They make their own receivers; not to say that in and of itself is good/bad: three manufacturers make 90% of all companies' uppers and lowers. I have not had Aero stuff but they have a solid following and a good rep. ALG is owned by the company that makes Geissele triggers, and the ACT is probably the 'best' kinda stock trigger out there. It is a very, very good start.

FYI:

Lewis Machine & Tool (LMT)
- LMT
- Lauer (old)
- DS Arms
- PWA
- Eagle
- Armalite
- Knights Armament
- Barret

Continental Machine Tool
- Stag
- Rock River Arms
- High Standard
- Noveske
- Century Arms (new)
- Global Tactical
- CLE
- S&W
- MGI
- Wilson Tactical
- Grenadier Precision
- Colt

LAR Manufacturing
- LAR
- Bushmaster
- Ameetec
- DPMS
- CMMG
- Double Star
- Fulton Armory
- Spikes Tactical
 
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LOL queue the triggered PSA haters who own all Aero bahahahahahaaaaaaa

YOU sir have been bamboozled, flim-flammed, hoodwinked...
 
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Disclaimer: all of the below is based on my research and experience, which is strictly focused on AR parts and builds that are closer to Mil, SHTF, and Mall Ninja than precision, tack driving, marksmanship efforts.

So, for barrel. I feel like Ballistic Advantage is the best value right now. They also tend to have great availability and a variety of configurations. I believe Faxon is great as well, just slightly more expensive. From there, I think you step up to something like a BCM, LMT, and then Noveske. My issues with that is, I can't see paying crazy money for a barrel that I will never use in full auto and also may get shot 500-1000 rounds a year. Even if that round count was higher, plenty of data out there on BA, Faxon, and BCM to show that you should get 25,000 rounds out of a decent one.

HUGE DISCLAIMER FOR BELOW RECOMMENDATION: This is only my opinion, and I am certainly not Combat Diver or anyone who has ever operated on the 2-way range, and I am not a Vickers or Hailey who is throwing 50-100K rounds down range every month/quarter/beach trip.

If it were me, I'd find a decent deal on a like new complete quality upper, BCM, DD, Colt, LMT, and shoot the shit out of it until I researched more and found out what I did and didn't like about the configuration of parts. For example, I just got a BCM 14.5" BFH midlength upper with BCM BCG, BCM Charge Handle, Surefire brake pinned and welded ($893 new on BCM site right now) with Centurion cutout rail ($225 new) and a BCM marked troy rear site and Magpul XTM rail panels for $435 shipped off AR15.com. It looks a little beat up but considering I paid 1/3 of what it cost new, and the barrel isn't even really broken in yet, I saved a lot of money for other builds/ammo/baby food!
 
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concepthomes1 said:
It doesn't bother me. I like Aero's FDE products so that was my reason to switch.
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Just messing with ya. I love that Aero rail o got from you. But as far as turkey turd tan colored receivers go....
af827577c3867350c182a93f6d8ec6b5.jpg
 
KnotRight said:
The goal of this built is just to do it. The goal of this rifle would be shooting steel maybe out to 400 yards. That is the reason for the 20" barrel. Not sure how well an AR platform would straight out past that distance.
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I've used mil spec 14.5" M4A1 with irons out to 500yds in competition and standard issue M16A2 with M855 ball out to 600 yds on the known distance range. Have built couple 18/20" rifles with 1:7 and 1:6 to go out to 1000yds but haven't had the time to get to a long enough range. Ammo would be Black Hills Mk262 77gr OTM. Some of the best rifle barrels for accuracy is White Oak, expensive but worth it if that is your goal.

CD
 
If it were a “do it all” I would build a 16” midlength gas.
 
NKD said:
If it were a “do it all” I would build a 16” midlength gas.
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Dave, my first AR was a BCM BFH 16" midlength and it's also the only upper I havent changed or sold (other than I changed the rail). Just finally added the Vltor A5 buffer setup to the lower it's on and I'm expecting it to shoot like a .22 next time I'm out!
 
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NKD said:
If it were a “do it all” I would build a 16” midlength gas.
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My BCM LW 14.5" (actually 15") would get that nod except it's the least accurate .223/5.56 I have, not awful, but everything else will shoot sub MOA with something.
Light, handy, runs everything, less recoil than my 18" heavy rifle gas upper.

By the reviews if I build another I'd be looking at Faxon's Gunner, maybe 16" to avoid perming a MD. I don't think I'd take a gov't/M4 profile if it was free, if you want a heavy barrel get heavy barrel, otherwise weight should be to the rear.
 
Combat Diver said:
I've used mil spec 14.5" M4A1 with irons out to 500yds in competition and standard issue M16A2 with M855 ball out to 600 yds on the known distance range. Have built couple 18/20" rifles with 1:7 and 1:6 to go out to 1000yds but haven't had the time to get to a long enough range. Ammo would be Black Hills Mk262 77gr OTM. Some of the best rifle barrels for accuracy is White Oak, expensive but worth it if that is your goal.

CD
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I qual'd as designated marksman and used the SAM-R; to this day, my favorite rifle of all time. 20" free-floating Douglas barrel with a Leup 10x scope, I could hit (almost) anything to 800 yards. Not sure where the myth started that the 14.5/16" carbine cannot make 500 yards, but I still hear it all the time.

As for carbine vs mid-length, I really don't have an opinion one way or the other....don't like any one any more than the other....
 
Beef15 said:
My BCM LW 14.5" (actually 15") would get that nod except it's the least accurate .223/5.56 I have, not awful, but everything else will shoot sub MOA with something.
Light, handy, runs everything, less recoil than my 18" heavy rifle gas upper.

By the reviews if I build another I'd be looking at Faxon's Gunner, maybe 16" to avoid perming a MD. I don't think I'd take a gov't/M4 profile if it was free, if you want a heavy barrel get heavy barrel, otherwise weight should be to the rear.
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I actually have a 14.5” mid length Faxon gunner.
It’s never leaving my possession. But it’s an SBR, so if it werent I would do a 16. Don’t want a pinned muzzle device.But I like that taper a lot. Just feels so light in the front it makes for fast transitions and it’s easy to stop.
 
Just about every part of an AR is going to have little nuances about them. Certainly some matter more than others. Sights, LOP, trigger style and weight, length/style of handguard and so on...
So, the question for someone wanting to build one is:
What is it’s purpose and is there a cost consideration.
An AR is just a tool. How many screwdrivers do you have? lol
 
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